Moth

Moth

Fieldnotes 101-150 of 280 fieldnotes

Baronens Høj

Access: Good. You can get within a few yards of the monument by car and enjoy the seaside setting.

For road directions to the area, see Frydendal Kro. Continue NW along the ‘main’ forest road, past Frydendal Øst & Havrekobbel.

It’s about 5km in total from Frydendal Kro. Stay on this road, and keep eyes open for a right-turn to Nygard.

Once you can see the sea, you can also see the runddysse!

Visited 3 April 2006
Wow! A wonderfully pretty monument in a beautiful setting – the sea always makes a fantastic life-filled backdrop!

An impressively complete kerb remains on this picturesque runddysse, which is built on an ‘extra’ mound to allow it to sit level on the slope down towards the sea.

The centrally placed chamber is exposed, but the mound is complete enough to still mean that the sidestones are largely below the surface. It’s topped off with a heavy & shapely capstone .

The sun even came out, highlighting the amazing variety of differently coloured kerbstones and turning them into dollymixtures!

A favourite!

Stabelhøje

Co-ordinates are for carpark on east side of road, barrows are clearly visible on west of road

Access: Carpark at east of road and short walk along grassy paths to the nearest barrow. May get boggy in the wet and I haven’t seen the path between the 2 barrows – I guess they’re about 200m apart.

For directions, see Mols/Porskær Stenhus. Continue east along this road past Porskær un-named to Agri, continuing ‘straight on’ at the crossroads. The barrows are on the left after about 500m.

Visited 4 April 2006
Having spent hours at Mols/Porskær Stenhus & wanting to get on to Tustrup, we didn’t have time to walk up to these beauties – which I now kind of regret!

However, from the little information I’ve found, it doesn’t look as if there is all that much to see other than the mounds.

Langdysse ved Ristinge Nor

Access: Small carpark close to monument. Short uphill walk of maybe 100 metres on edge of field, with worn path across ploughed soil (when we were there) to monument.

Langdysse ved Ristinge Nor is in the south of Langeland, but very easy to reach from Hesselbjerg. From there, go into Hesselbjerg village and turn right. Very soon take the next left, and then the next right.

The road bends left to go north and then left again to go west. Stay on this road and the monument is in a field on your right on the (near) horizon after around 0.5km. There is a small parking place also on the right (north) of the road.

Visited 5 April 2006
Nice one! Covering mound gone, but looking spectacular in the yellow light of the sinking sun.

This strongly reminded me of Lindeskov Langdysse 6 – the one featured on page 157 of Julian’s The Megalithic European, both because of the lack of mound covering and the multiple chambers.

The plan of the monument on the information board at the carpark shows that 2 of the 4 chambers in the langdysse were jættestuen – passage graves. And the ‘middle’ 2 were ‘dysse’ or dolmens – burial chambers without a passage – suggesting that they are older.

Quite handily, one of each remains reasonably well-preserved (though I think the passage on the passage grave only has one stone from its passage).

Hjulgraven ved Hjordkær

Access: Good – carpark right next to monuments.

Head for Aabenraa on the E45, down near the isle of Als. Leave the E45 at junction 70 to go west on the 24 for a short distance. Then take the 429 west into Rødekro, but almost immediately turning left (south) onto Hærvejen. This road will take you to Hjordkær.

As you reach the town, you will see an industrial estate on your right before reaching the 443. Turn west into the industrial estate and the carpark and monuments are on your left after 100-200 metres.

Visited 3 April 2006
Hmmm. Prehistoric sites throughout Europe include many gritty ‘urban’ survivors that remain powerful, impressive and attractive despite their surroundings.

This ain’t one of them, but it’s still partially a credit to the local archaeological authorities that it’s still here & with what looked like a very good info board. (It was in Danish, so I can’t guarantee it was good!)

Its unsatisfactory setting (and possibly state of destruction) are a familiar story for those of us who care about sites in the UK. The site was excavated in 1980 as several burial mounds were being ploughed up as the land was under industrial development. How many burial mounds there were and what condition they and this site were in, I don’t know.

At least the nearest factory makes something worthwhile – parts for wind turbines....

Ormhøj

Access: Area to park right next to Kongehøjen ved Voldstedlund. We didn’t have time to go up to or into Ormhøj or Jordhøj. It looks like a walk of a few hundred metres back along the road would be the best approach, but you may be able to reach them from Rishøj.

Visited 4 April 2006
Aaargh!!! Through the big lens, Ormhøj and Jordhøj look like real beauties, but we were out of time having spent quite a while at Kongehøjen ved Voldstedlund and Rishøj.

To be honest, I hadn’t realised they were so close to Kongehøjen ved Voldstedlund until we were heading away. How I missed spotting them from Rishøj, I don’t know, but it was probably too late by then!

So if you’re lucky enough to visit, the only information I’ve found is that Ormhøj has an oval chamber 5 meters long with a rare smaller chamber behind it. Excavated in the 1890s, finds of earthenware post and flint knives are in the Danish National Museum (Copenhagen).

It looks as though you can get into the chambers.

Langdysse ved Pæregård Strand

Mentioned in passing in The Megalithic European (TME) on page 168.

Access: Walk of just over 1km fairly gently uphill much of the time, along field edges next to the sea. Quite rough underfoot, as much of this is on edges of ploughed fields.

The Langdysse ved Pæregård Strand is on Langeland, and easy to find from Ringlehøj i Snave Skov. Simply continue for around 700m to the end of the same road which ends beside the sea. Walk north along the edge of the fields next to the sea.

7 April 2006
What a shame! OK, so the langdysse’s is quite damaged, but it seems that it could still be well worth seeing if cleared of the thick overgrowth covering it.

It has the remains of 3 chambers and according to James Dyer in 1972 “...is partly surrounded by a kerb of stones.” – Discovering Archaeology in Denmark.

The tough & gnarly vegetation makes it very difficult to investigate the monument properly and to work out what’s what. Even with the plan in Oldtidsminder På Langeland that we picked up at the tourist info office, it’s still too abstract.

And worse, with its seaside setting, it has a wonderful place in the landscape that can only be glimpsed, when it should be striking. The tress and large bushes on it mask the view to th north from the south of the monument – and the view to the south from the north.

All that said, we enjoyed our visit – the coast here is beautiful – but the monument requires a fair amount of imagination and prompted a lot of frustration!

Jættestuekammer ved Kinderballe

Access: The field was in crop so we simply took a couple of photos and headed onwards. From where we took the photos we couldn’t tell what access was like, unfortunately.

The Jaettestuekammer ved Kinderballe is on Langeland, and easy to find from Hesselbjerg. Simply continue for around 2.5km on the same road out of Hesselbjerg village heading SE then bending south.

When you pass Kinderballe, the road kinks to the west & back to head SSW. The stones are clearly visible a short distance ahead in the field on the right (west).

Seen from a distance 5 April 2006
Huge stones on an imposing mound. The scary bit is how big the covering mound would have been, as as far as we could see, these look like the chambers of a langdysse!!!

I’d love to get up to this place one day!

Lindeskov Dolmen (2)

Visited 2 April 2006
We couldn’t spot this one – is it destroyed? If not, I would have thought it would have been visible from the nearest roads....

We weren’t able to enter the field for a poke around though, so we may have missed something!

Lindeskov Dyssekammer 5

Visited 2 April 2006
We don’t have any photos of this, as the only thing we found was a mess and unphotographable under the shadows of the trees. But I’m not sure it was the dyssekammer anyway!

Mejls

Access: A couple of hundred yards across flat fields, could be boggy in wet weather.

Fenced off but accessible through a typical Danish self-closing gate. These are a normal gate leaning far enough from perpendicular that the gate will ‘fall’ closed when released. (With a ‘stop’ to prevent it falling wide open!) I guess they could be a bit awkward for people with mobility restrictions.

To find the monument, take the 11 north from Varde, taking the turn for Mejls. You will be able to see a few barrow mounds – and you may have seen a few from the 11. They’re pretty common here & by & large, far larger than the ‘standard’ ones we’re used to in the UK.

Don’t go to Mejls itself, but take the first left. Almost immediately, you will pass 2 barrows on your right. Pass a farm on the left and at the far end of the next field, you will find a small parking area/layby on the left, by a building (a bungalow I think).

I’m pretty sure there was a signpost, but basically the monument you’re looking for is immediately beyond the field on your left. You’ll be able to see it & it’s more complete partner from the road. Just walk (roughly west) along the field boundary.

Visited 1 April 2006
It was a misty dank afternoon, but we didn’t care as this was our first Danish monument! We’d driven straight here from the ferry port at Esbjerg, having planned a circuitous route across Jutland to Fyn (or Funen) where we were staying.

James Dyer calls this monument (though there are actually 2) a ‘barrow’. What we found was one complete(ish) barrow mound & a denuded, dug out version* with stones exposed. I’d’ve called it a passage grave, but what do I know?!

(*Or trashed – depending on your perspective!)

Kind of nice combination, actually – a complete barrow (or hoj!) and an exploded version to show how it ‘works’. Nice chamber stones, made up of a slightly tumbled passage & a couple of fairly substantial capstones over a small low chamber.

Not completely thrilling, but well worth a look if you’re in the area or passing en route somewhere! A good start to our danish trip.

Ølustrup

Access: A hundred yards or so from the nearest road (north), up a fairly gentle hill, but the ground is quite rough.

We approached from the 11, heading north from its junction with the 15 between Ringkøbing on the coast & Herning.

Just after Brejning, we turned left (west) towards Ølustrup itself. The monument and a small parking place are on the right (north) of the road only about 1km before you reach the village. We missed it in that direction but found it easily by getting to the village and coming back the other way.

Visited 1 April 2006
James Dyer describes this complex as ‘three long dolmens and a long barrow’ in his 1972 book Discovering Archaeology in Denmark. To be honest, it seemed a bit of a mess.

I’ve posted a photo of a plan on a board by the road – make sure you have a good look at it before visiting the monuments! If you have a digital camera with you, take a photo of the plan/sign on your way to the monument – or print it from here! We found it very difficult to work out what was what once actually among the monuments.

Without the plan, you risk getting lots of lumps & bumps, some of which look kind of like barrows. Of course, the real giveaways are those that have had chunks dug away to expose some nice chamber stones!

Klæbek Høje

Featured in The Megalithic European (TME) page 164.

Access: Pretty good. You can park on the small road right next to the monument(s). Through gate to smoothly grassed site.

Finding it can be a nightmare though!!! We found the small roads to the north of Bække to be a bit of a labyrinth, but we didn’t approach from the best direction, having missed a turning.

Instead, I’d advise carefully following Julian’s instructions in TME – leave the 469 between Grinsted & Kolding, 0.7km west of the 417 junction, to head south on Hamborggårdvej. (This was the one we missed. so be really alert!)

On Hamborggårdvej, you will also pass the huge Hamborggårdsten oath stone.

About 1km from the 469, turn right onto Tværvej. Then next left onto Klæbekvej. Klæbek Høje is a couple of hundred metres down on your left. (Or should be!!!)

Visited 1 April 2006
Here are 2 impressively domed round barrows from the bronze age, with added Viking skibssætning – a megalithic longship – between the barrows.

The ‘boat’ even features larger stones at the tips, presumably as prow & stern. One of these stones (the stern, I believe) features Viking runic carving, unusually including abbreviations.

According to James Dyer in his 1972 book Discovering Archaeology in Denmark, it was carved in the 9th century & says “Revne and Tobbe made these signs in memory of Vibrog, their mother”.

A disturbed and empty grave was found in the middle of the ship & there are curious tracklike depressions in the ground that run along the axis of the ‘ship’. The depressions are apparently the remains of a military road or trackway.

Dyer says the road was prehistoric. Seeing them, I wasn’t really convinced what they were, but I guess there’s some evidence I don’t know about!

So, anyway, hoorah! Our first ‘proper‘ Danish monument – just like in TME – not like anything in Britain. Of course the main difference is the Viking skibssætning, but the barrows are also considerably better preserved than most we see here – having been spared the attentions of the plough.....

Hamborggårdsten

Featured in The Megalithic European (TME) page 164.

Access: Right on the road. See my fieldnote on Klæbek Høje.

Visited 1 April 2006
A monster! In TME, Julian calls the stone ‘legendary’ and says it was used by Vikings for swearing oaths. However, as it appears as an add-on under Klæbek Høje, he doesn’t say any more. There is an info board, but of course, it’s in Danish....

I’d wondered if the stone was an erratic (not that that would’ve meant it wasn’t significant) but the pictures on the info board do include a drawing of people moving the stone into place. Whether the text asserts that it was deliberately placed I don’t know, as I can’t read (or speak) Danish!

The board does also show what seems to be an excavation, so perhaps there was evidence found at that time that it had been placed. Interestingly though, the stone seems to be far below (modern) ground-level – whereas now, it seems to be simply sitting on the ground....

Edit: Charlotte Thomsen saw my note and kindly provided this translation:

Hamborggårdstenen was moved by the ice during the latest ice age from Finland to its present location in Jutland, Denmark about 15,000 years ago.

The stone is approximately one billion years old (1,000,000,000), weighs about 50 tons and is made of granite. Originally the stone was embedded in the ground 20 meters further west but in January 1990 it was moved to its present location.

The stone is connected to old folklore and this is what the picture relates to: King Harold Bluetooth (10th Century) was moving the stone to his mother’s grave in Jelling but when he heard that his son Sweyn Forkbeard was rebelling against him, he left the stone.

Thank you Charlotte!!!

Glavendrup

Featured in The Megalithic European (TME) page 156-7.

Access: Well signposted once you get fairly near. Parking area. Walk is a couple of hundred yards or so from the nearest road (north west), gently uphill along a dirt path through a small wood. Fairly uneven & may be muddy in the wet.

To reach the monument, get to Søndersø, which is on the 311 between Odense & Bogense. Travelling NW on the 311 from Søndersø, take Sanvad – a right turn (NE) towards Stensby, Skamby, Ulleup & Otterup. After around 1km, take a left towards Stensby, Skamby & Glavendrup. As Julian says in TME, I believe it’s signposted from here.

On reaching Stensby, take a left then a quick right towards Glavendrup. Very soon there is a left (Stenager) which passes just to the NW of Glavendrup village. At a crossroads just outside Glavendrup, go straight across, staying on Stenager. The woods containing the monument are a few hundred metres on the left.

Visited 2 April 2006
As you walk through the pleasantly airy woods to the restored skibssætning you will see many modern runestones, some dedicated to archaeologists involved in the restoration.

This is slightly ironic, as in 1800 a gravel pit meant many of the stones of the skibssætning were moved and lost. It was restored (badly) between 1892 and 1894, but the job was done properly in 1958. At that time they also found traces of Viking cremation burials.

The large runestone at the ‘prow’ was found separately, and in his 1972 book Discovering Archaeology in Denmark James Dyer seems to imply that this may not have been its original position. A shame, but hey, it looks great!!!

Here’s a translation of the runes from both sides of the stone, adapted from a couple of sources:

“Ragnhildr placed this stone in memory of Alle, the housecarls’ chieftain, high priest of the sanctuary. Alle’s sons made this monument in memory of their father, and his wife in memory of her husband. And Sóti carved these runes in memory of his lord. Thor bless these runes. A warlock be he who damages this stone or drags it (to stand) in memory of another.”

Ragnarock ‘n’ roll!!! An impressive monument and a very cool place!!!

Lindeskov

There are (at least) 11 monuments around Lindeskov. We found 7 of them, including Langdysse 1 – the longest in Denmark, at 180m and a group of 4 in a clearing in a small wood.

Download a nice pdf leaflet in Danish but with a very handy map visitodense.com/dk/Naturfoldere/Lykkesholm_dk.pdf I advise rightclicking & choosing ‘Save as’, as trying to save it once I’d opened it online crashed my PC....

Wish we’d had the map when we visited! Good luck in finding the ‘missing pieces’!!

Dysser i Lindeskov Hestehave

Access: See fieldnotes for Lindeskov Langdysse 1. This ‘subcomplex’ is reached by a lane that enters the woods a couple of hundred metres to the west of the monuments.

This is not the same lane as Lindeskov Langdysse 1 is on, but if heading west on the 323, it is the next (small) lane heading north.

Once at the woods, reach the clearing by a worn path leading east along the edge of the woods. The path is a little overgrown and not all that even. Could be slippery when wet.

Visited 2 April 2006
Wow!!! What a wonderful surprise! My research hadn’t led us to these monuments, but we saw them on an information board at Lindeskov Langdysse 1.

Neither Julian in The Megalithic European, nor James Dyer in Discovering Archaeology in Denmark even mentions their existence! (but then Julian only mentions Langdysse 6 and Dyer only Langdysse 1 & 6.)

In a clearing in the woods there are 2 langdysser, a burial chamber (dyssekammer) and a round barrow (runddysse). They’re a little ‘worn around the edges’, but still totally essential viewing.

Lindeskov Runddysse 4

Visited 2 April 2006
Tucked away round some trees behind Langdysse 2 is this nice little round barrow.

It’s so bijou that by Danish standards it hardly seems more than a cist in a small mound, but it has a nice kerb & of course the mound may well have once been considerably taller.

A lovely thing & among the stuff we saw in Denmark, quite unusual. I’d reckon it was well worth visiting in itself, but combined with the nearby monuments....

Lindeskov Langdysse 2

Visited 2 April 2006
A beauty! Very nice langdysse, though looks a little dug out in places.

The exposed chamber stones seem a little odd. It’s a small setting, almost like passage stones, but pointing in the ‘wrong’ direction – as you’d usually expect them to go to the side of the monument (see Langdysse 3).

Possibly a cist?

Unfortunately I’ve been unable to find any detailed info on these monuments, and none in in English....

Lindeskov Langdysse 3

Visited 2 April 2006
Probably the jewel in this site’s crown.

Large, and denuded (presumably, or perhaps excavated) enough to allow the chambers to be nicely exposed.

The southern chamber has some stones ‘attached’ that look a bit like the remains of a passage. The northern chamber is a lovely big slabby thing with a raw-looking boulder capstone.

Combined with some big beefy kerbstones, this was a Moth favourite. Oh for some information – in English!

Lindeskov Dolmen (1)

Access: For directions to Lindeskov, see Lindeskov Langdysse 1. For directions to the dolmen itself, see Dysser i Lindeskov Hestehave. If you can get permission to walk up to the site from the nearby farm, it looks like an easy walk of 100m or so across pasture.

Visited 2 April 2006
We could see this from Lindeskov Langdysse 1. Couldn’t investigate it closely, as it’s not officially open to the public. And we couldn’t ‘sneak’ over to it, as there were people working in the nearby farm but time constraints meant we didn’t have time to go and ask permission.

Looks like a beauty, and from the west a ‘rise’ in the field suggested the vestiges of an enormous covering mound.

Lindeskov Langdysse 1

Access: Very good. You can park right next to the monument. Actually, too close – in fact, if you have a 4WD (hawk, spit!) you could probably park on top of it! (Don’t!)

To reach the monument, take the 8 to Orbæk. Head west(ish) out of the village on the 323. After leaving the village, travel around 1km or less & take what I think is the first turning on the right (north). This turning is just after a large farm at the beginning of a gentle right kink in the 323, and very soon after a turning to Lindeskov village.

Within moments, the langdysse will appear from behind a building and some trees on your right.

Visited 2 April 2006
The longest (or langest) langdysse in Denmark & it failed to make Julian’s cut for The Megalithic European. I can kind of see why – assuming he visited it.

It’s mind-bogglingly long, but I found it somehow slightly underwhelming and ‘soulless’. The drab weather didn’t help, but ultimately, the facts that it was so huge & has a largely complete set of large kerbstones didn’t stop it looking too much like a stretch of disused railway embankment!!!

Perhaps it suffers from chambers not being visible, despite several apparent attempts at excavation.

A tiny chamber is exposed at the north end, without its capstone. But if it wasn’t for James Dyer in Discovering Archaeology in Denmark, I would have probably thought this was the remains of an inserted cist.

It’s a shame that it’s difficult to get a view from the east to properly appreciate its full length (due to ploughed/cultivated field), as from the west, part of it is obscured by the trees mentioned above. It’s also marred by a rubbish bin, an info board & the parking space.

All that said, it’s pretty damn impressive & absolutely a must-see.

Lindeskov Langdysse 6

Featured in The Megalithic European (TME) as an inset on page 157.

Access: Very good. Right next to the 323 with a layby right next to it. For directions to Lindeskov, see Lindeskov Langdysse 1, but continue west along the 323. Very soon, the monument will appear on your right, immediately next to the road.

Visited 2 April 2006
Wow! A massively impressive skeleton, this must have been a monster when ‘clothed’ in its mound.

For some, the site may be marred by the proximity of the road. But for me, the ‘flipside’ that the closeness to the road makes it easy for all to reach negates this, & adds that feeling that this is a survivor that won’t be done away with easily! And how!

Lindeskov 6 boasts no fewer than 4 good-sized chambers (actually, 2 are huge) plus another diddy one at the west.

The number of undeniably large stones used here make this one of those sites that still fills me with wonderment at the effort put into building these things – no matter how used to looking at them I get!

Wonderful.

Havrekobbel

Access: Good. The two main monuments are right next to the road, one each side.

From Frydendal Øst, continue north west along the road (which becomes langedyssevej), passing Frydendal Øst. However, when the road forks, you need the right turn onto Nørreskovej. There is a large white house (called Havrekobbelhus!) at this junction, you need to pass it on your left.

A few hundred metres on, you will see a layby-type space on your right, and the monuments are just around the next bend.

Visited 3 April 2006
Nice! Three langdysser – I’d describe one as ‘beautifully broken’, one as not badly preserved & the other pretty totally trashed & unimpressive.

The one on the south of the road is splendid, featuring the remains of a beautiful kerb and the remains of a couple of chambers. Probably as a result of the remaining kerb, it has retained its classic langdysse shape very well, albeit I would assume, considerably lower than it would originally have been.

The other reasonably well-preserved one (nearest to the road on the north) – let’s call it the ‘middle’one – only has a few kerb-type stones. But it’s noteable for a lovely ruined chamber with a large capstone & the remains of a passage to the east.

The final, most northerly barrow is basically a large low mound ‘behind’ the dysse on the north edge of the road. It has a few large stones on it, but I have to admit I don’t remember the remains of a four sided chamber that James Dyer mentions in Discovering Archaeology in Denmark.

A beautiful & peaceful place for a picnic on a nice day – there’s even a picnic table provided.

Blommeskobbel

Approximate long/lat coordinates only, but shouldn’t be too hard to find.

Featured in The Megalithic European (TME) page 155.

Access: In woodland, you can get close enough by car to see the monuments through the trees. The ground around the monuments is typical woodland mud, which may be slippery when wet.

Blommeskobbel is on the island of Als, so travel towards Sønderborg on the 8. We went a slightly different way to Julian in TME, but it looked simpler on the map.

Shortly after a roundabout at Bro, we took a right towards Kettingskov. As we reached Kettingskov, at a crossroads with a slightly more major road – Østkystvejen – we turned left and then took the next right, which is unconfusingly called Blommskobbel!

This is where we rejoined Julian’s route. Less than 50m along ‘Blommeskobbel’, fork left towards the woods. The road goes into the woods, and once into the woods, when it forks again you need to take the left fork.

The monuments are visible on your right after you have been in the woods for less than 1km.

Visited 2 April 2006
Another must-see & a cool place (in more ways than one when we went!) We spent quite a while here, despite the rain & cold. Which is saying something considering Jane’s aversion to cold....

Two langdysser, a denuded but recogniseable runddysse & a diddy dolmen (probably also from a runddysse)! And those langdysser are beauties – big & beefy!!! (Not nearly as long as Landeskov langdysse 1, but somehow more impressive to me....)

The ruined runddysse and the other remaining dolmen squeezed against a tree also add hugely to the site and the whole complex merits a good deal of examination.

Interesting to try to photograph because of the trees – at least they weren’t in leaf! The trees also do an amazingly good (or rather, bad) job of hiding the fact that you are so close to the sea – a view of which would add yet another dimension to the site!

I believe the woods contain a good few other monuments, but that these are at least mostly, or possibly completely, trashed.

We did find nearby the wrecked and difficult to find (& access!) overgrown remains of another barrow – probably another langdysse. Hardly worth seeing, and I’m afraid I can’t remember reliably exactly how to find it. I think it was a little way back up the access road (100m maybe, on the ‘field’ side).

Gamle Troldhøj

Fairly approximate long/lat coordinates only, as I couldn’t spot the monument among the trees on the arial photomap. They shouldn’t be far out though.

Access: A 200m walk through the woods on paths north from Havrekobbel. I just followed what looked like the ‘main’ paths & they took me straight to the monument. You could approach up from the Troldhøj road which is the next turning north, to the west of Havrekobbel, but it’s quite steep and I’m not sure how easy it would be to spot the site on the hillside amongst the trees.

For road directions, see Frydendal Kro and continue north & west past Frydendal Øst to Havrekobbel.

Visited 3 April 2006
A pretty spot overlooking a small valley with a road at the bottom.

Can’t help thinking that without the forestry, the view might well be

beautiful – in retrospect I wonder if the sea might once have visible. I suspect not, as the valley bears to the east.

The ‘Old Troll’s Hill’ is a pretty well-preserved runddysse (round barrow). Excavations found a 17cm flint dagger at the bottom of the mound and a bronze-age urn in the chamber.

It has a relatively undamaged mound which is made more dramatic by being built on a the highest point of a steepish valley. To complete the picture, it has a nice exposed chunky chamber, complete with capstone. A little beauty!

Frydendal Kro

Approximate long/lat coordinates only, but shouldn’t be too hard to find – famous last words!

Access: In woodland, a short walk through the trees on fairly level & fairly even ground. May be boggy and/or slippery in wet weather. Just about visible from road – you can certainly see the road from the monuments, at least when the trees aren’t covered in leaves!

On the island of Als, so travel towards Sønderborg on the 8. Continue on the 8 until you are nearly at Fynshav, looking out for a turning left to Helleved (& probably Elstrup) – the road may be called Katry. Take this and prepare to take the next right, ‘Helved’ (not sure if there is a sign that tells you its name).

The road bears left and enters a forest. At the first crossroads (very approximately 1km along this road) turn right and pretty much immediately, the monuments are in the trees on your right.

Visited 2 April 2006
Here there is a dolmen in the almost flattened remains of its runddysse mound, and a very ‘shallow’ (flattened, I assume) langdysse with an open cist-like chamber.

Pretty underwhelming, but worth a look if you’re travelling to the more impressive sites in the area.

Apparently, on the other side of the road, there are 3 large burial mounds. We didn’t investigate, as the trees on that side seemed much more dense....

Frydendal Øst

Approximate long/lat coordinates, as I couldn’t see the site among the trees on the aerial photomap. We just happened to spot the site on the right of the road travelling NW from Frydendal Kro, so shouldn’t be too hard to find!

Access: Through reasonably even undulating wood, visible from road, at least when trees are not in leaf!. For directions, see Frydendal Kro.

Visited 3 April 2006
Spotted this one from the road just after leaving Frydendal Kro. Nothing terribly spectacular, but worth keeping an eye-out for – chunky chamber stones & large mound.

Troldkirken

Featured in The Megalithic European (TME) page 159.

Access: Walk of around 500m along clear and reasonably even track, gently climbing. Very muddy in the weather I was there in! The final section is a path across a field, which may be slippery and is a good bit steeper.

Troldkirken is about 9km west of Aalborg. To reach the monument, take the 187 E-W between Aalborg and Sønderholm.

Just to the east of Sønderholm, turn south to Store Restrup (St Restrup). When you reach a crossroads with a more major road, turn right (west) and continue for about 1km – when the road is going uphill you are close.

There is a layby on the north side of the road for parking, and a signpost for Troldkirken – but it’s so huge you’ll be able to see it clearly on its little hill from the road.

Visited 6 April 2006
‘The Troll’s Church’ is a big ‘un!! On the day I saw it, it was a big wet ‘un! (Please excuse the raindrops on the photos!)

The small hill (exaggerated by quarrying in the past) it stands on is visible from miles around. From the south, the langdysse, and particularly the huge chamber are clearly visible.

As a matter of fact, I’d forgotten that there is more here than just the dolmen. Although reduced to the level of the bottom of the chamber, this is still an impressive earthwork, 90m long, with plenty of big kerbstones to impress. (Bit of a shame they’ve been joined by a concrete ‘trig’ point!)

You have plenty of time to get to appreciate its positioning on the walk up Troldkirkenvej, and there is a very nice round barrow ‘høj’ to add some extra interest to the walk. The view of Troldirken itself to the NW from the top of the høj is superb – I recommend it highly.

By the way, if you look at the ‘inline map’ for Troldkirken by clicking the ‘Show map’ link near the top of this page, there are some interesting cropmarks around the site, most noticeably some immediately to the SW of Troldkirken itself.

Porskærvej un-named

Map co-ordinates are probably right, I hope, but it was difficult to spot for sure in aerial photos. Should be easy to find anyway if you know it’s around there, as we just spotted it while passing!

Access: Short walk down fairly rough field-edge ‘verge’.

For directions, see Mols/Porskær Stenhus. Continue east along this road, keeping a watch out to the left (NW) as you go up the hill.

Visited 4 April 2006
Made up name, as I’ve not been able to find out anything at all about this barrow.

Not spectacular by any means, but worth a look for the chunky capstone alone. A nice surprise, especially considering we nearly didn’t go and look!

Tustrup Jættestue

Featured in The Megalithic European (TME) page 161.

Access: Bit of a walk from the carpark – perhaps a few hundred metres along a decent path, down into a reasonably steep little valley, across a wooden bridge and up the other side.

In Djursland, NE of Århus.

We went here from Mols (or Porskær Stenhus, as it’s more often known). It’s a bit of a winding wander through minor roads, but very rewarding, as there are a few other minor (but cool) sites to search out on the way. The first few of these are spottable if you contininue on the road past Porskær Stenhus.

I’ll try to describe this way, as the route directly from the E45 is pretty simple until you join our route anyway! (Junction 42 onto the 16 east, which becomes the 21. Left onto the 547 and then right to Tustrup village before you reach Fjellerup. Then 0.5km before Tustrup village, turn right (west). The carpark is on the left about 1.5km-2km along this road.

So, from Porskær Stenhus we coninued east along the same road towards Agri. Within a couple of km at most, we noticed a wrecked barrow to the left in a scrubby bit of a field boundary – which I’ve called Porskærvej un-named.

We went straight through Agri (pretty place), and after about half a km, the barrows of Stabelhøje are unmissable on the left. At some point around here, we also saw a couple of wrecked barrows I’ve yet to identify, but you won’t miss them as they were right next to the road. We continued on towards Tåstrup (not Tustrup!!!).

From Tåstrup it gets difficult to remember for sure exactly the way we navigated the maze of minor roads, which is a shame because we saw a really nice dolmen (to be identified) on the right of one of the little lanes.

Given that, I’ll just say that we headed for Kolind, Koed, Nimtofte and then Tustrup. Just over 0.5km north of Tustrup, there is a crossroads – turn west here. The carpark for the site is about 1.5km-2km along on the left with a sign.

Visited 4 April 2006
Good map (& probably info boards if we could have read them) in the carpark to whet the megalithic appetite. A short walk crossing a pretty stream and then – a small megalithic showroom!!

We were blessed with the weather again and were able to spend a goodly time wandering here and getting our heads round this place. Another spellbinder.

Tustrup Dyssekammer

Visited 4 April 2006
Essentially a dolmen – probably a passage grave – without a capstone. Still very impressive, as the remaining slabs are very substantial chunks of stone!

Tustrup Fællesgrav

Visited 4 April 2006
An impressive passage grave with mound pretty much intact, but one of the (I think) 5 capstones is missing from its 10m chamber.

The passage is short, but has no capstones, making it fairly easy to get into, though the chamber itself is fairly low – you have to squat when under the capstones.

Tustrup Runddysse

Visited 4 April 2006
Hmmm. Thought this one looked interesting in The Megalithic European & it is an odd one – to me at least.

Always assuming the restoration is accurate (& I have no reason to think otherwise) I’ve not really seen anything like the way it is constructed before, with the whole relatively small mound surrounded by such a tall revetment wall.

The construction of the wall itself reminded me of part of Wayland’s Smithy’s frontage. The construction as a whole, though, faintly reminded me of a ‘compressed’ version of The Great Tomb on Porth Hellick Down in the Isles of Scilly (though the construction of the revetment is different there, being ‘straightforward’ drystone wall).

I couldn’t help wondering if the whole thing was originally covered by a larger mound – but then I guess the excavations would have discovered that.

Tustrup Kulthuset

Visited 4 April 2006
Possibly the most unusual part of the complex, and as a result, particularly interesting. Unfortunately, it’s also the one that is least complete – largely because much of it was made of wood that was burnt down. The diagrams on the info board help though!

Apparently, the walls were a metre thick. In the centre was an oval pit with clean sand in it and at each ‘side’ were fairly sizeable collections of middle-neolithic pottery.

Bjerrebygaard

Featured in The Megalithic European (TME) page 168.

Access: It is just about possible to park on the farm track that crosses the field past the monument. Then a walk of around 100m across the field which was ploughed when we were there. If the field is in crop, you may not be able to get to the dolmen.

Bjerrebygaard is on Langeland. Cross the bridge to Langeland and travel just over 2.5km along the 9. Take a left turn (north) onto the 305 towards Tullebølle, Tranekær and Lohals.

The dolmen is just over 1.5km along this road on the left (west) clearly visible with 6 large trees on its mound, just before a wood.

Visited 5 April 2006
This was the first place we visited on Langeland, which turned out to be a veritable megalithic wonderland, the highlight of our trip & a wonderful birthday present for me!

It’s a shame Julian wasn’t able to cover the island’s monuments in more detail – there were so many interesting or attractive sites that we came back 2 days later to investigate more!

This is a beautiful chunky ‘double dolmen’, set on a largish mound. It’s a little knocked about and according to James Dyer in Discovering Archaeology in Denmark was originally a long barrow (or langdysse).

There are 2 chambers which are basically in good condition though one of the capstones has slipped down at the end where it meets the other chamber and is now wedged at an angle.

A couple of stones at the SE end suggest a passage and there are several other large stones on the mound (mostly to the west) some of which I’d assume may be (or have been) kerbstones and maybe, passage stones.

Dyer mentions 3 stones of another passage to the NW chamber, but I couldn’t really see what he means – though they may have been moved since his visit, as the book was punished in 1972....

Gundestrup

Featured in The Megalithic European (TME) page 162-3.

Access: Up a farm track, maybe about 400m. When I was there, it was extremely muddy & slippery!

In the far north of Denmark, fairly near Aalbog. Take the 11/29 between Aalborg in the east and Thisted in the west, heading for Fjerritslev.

At Fjerritslev, take the 29 south for about 3km, then take a left towards Husby. After 3km, turn right onto Gundestrupvej and after less than 500m, you should see a signpost for the monument.

Visited 6 April 2006
There are actually 3 ‘højs’ (or runndysse) here, 2 with mounds (and no accessible entrance) and one which has basically been stripped down to the passage & chamber on a low platform.

The 2 ‘complete’ barrows are pretty run-of-the-mill, for Denmark – that means they’re impressive mounds!!! But without being able to get inside, there is of course no way to see any of the megalithic ‘skeleton’, leaving fairly featureless mounds that perhaps have limited interest.

On the tomb that has been stripped, I have to admit that this is one of the few TME places in Denmark that disappointed me a bit. It didn’t help that it was a dull drab day & it had been raining mostly steadily (but often hard!) all day.

And it certainly didn’t help that the barrow had been burnt clear of vegetation, making it look stark, cold and ‘messy’ on its island in a ploughed field – which also made photographing difficult from many angles.

Please note that, unusually, Julian has made a mistake about this site in TME, concerning the Gundestrup Cauldron. It was actually found at another place called Gundestrup, about 30km further south, near Aars (on the 29 from here). This is backed up by James Dyer’s Discovering Archaeology in Denmark. I believe there is nothing to see at the place where it was found.

And opinion seems divided as to where the cauldron is now! Different sources say it’s in the National Museum in Copenhagen, Århus Museum or even Aars Museum! I tried to check online & the National Museum’s website ‘seems’ to say they have it, but the collection’s being revamped & is not open until May 2008!

Hesselbjerg

Featured in The Megalithic European (TME) page 168.

Access: Carpark is close to monument, a walk of about 40m along the road.

Hesselbjerg is on Langeland. From the 9, at the eastern edge of Rudkøbbing take the 305 south for about 14km. At the south end of the village of Humble (see also Kong Humble’s Grav) take a right (west) onto Ristingevej.

Follow this road to Hesselbjerg, taking a left (SE) in the village, onto Nørreballevej. The langdysse is around 250m along on the right (south).

Visited 5 April 2006
Ve-ery nice! This is a fine langdysse. Somehow I’d missed it out when planning the trip, even though it’s featured in TME. I blame the sheer number of monuments all over Langeland!

Curiously, it’s also curiously missng from Oldtidsminder På Langeland, a wonderful little book (unfortunately not available in English) that we picked up at the tourist info office. Luckily, while we were in the area, I just happened to notice it on the map & thought we’d might as well visit.

Beautiful and prominent kerbstones line its long sides, though its chamber is unimpressive, and agriculture (and an information board) give it no elbow-room.

Its setting is very pretty, being in a nature reserve, very close to a lake which teems with wildlife. As the sinking sun turned the light yellow & the shadows deepened, I was very glad we’d not missed it!

Langdysse i Ormstrup

Mentioned in passing in The Megalithic European (TME) on page 168.

Access: The carpark that we found is about 200-300m from the monument, a walk across gently undulating fields. Unfortunately, the fields were in crop so we couldn’t reach the monument.

The Langdysse i Ormstrup is on Langeland, and easy to find from Jaettestuekammer ved Kinderballe. Simply continue on the road south for a little over 0.5km, looking out for the road west to Ormstrup (called Tre Hoje but I can’t remember if there’s a sign).

Take this road – the parking and path to the langdysse are at the 2nd farm on the left, around 500m along.

Visited 5 April 2006
Looks like an absolute corker but we couldn’t get close as its field was in crop. We thought about walking down the ‘tramlines’ left by tractors, but without being able to speak Danish, we wimped out. Gah!

It’s possible you may also be able to reach the site from the next road to the south, maybe even when it’s in crop, but we didn’t have time to investigate.

Spanskhøj

Mentioned in The Megalithic European (TME) page 159, but this is not the main site that Julian talks about. That is Snibhøj. And when he refers to Snibhøj, he is actually referring to this monument!.

Access: See Snibhøj. From there, head back down to the village of Hannerup, but instead of going back the way you came through the village, turn right towards Snæbum (onto Snæbumvej).

If you’ve seen it from Snibhøj you won’t have trouble spotting the monument on the right (north) side of this road, just after a large farm on the left (south).

Visited 4 April 2006
There is no access to Spanskhøj from Snibhøj (well, there wasn’t when we went), so we thought we’d take a closer look from the nearest road and see if you could visit that way.

To be honest, it was pretty clear that the landowners didn’t want you to, and knowing that the passages have metal gates that were likely to be locked, we didn’t risk trying to sneak in under the noses of the busy neighbouring farms. We didn’t have time to ask, as it was getting late and we had a long way to go to get back to our base near Middlefart on the Isle of Fyn.

From the road, it’s pretty clear that Spanskhøj is like a very slightly smaller version of Snibhøj. And from the top of Snibhøj, it is clear that Spanskhøj has the same unusual layout – 2 passages to 2 separate chambers alongside each other (as does the wrecked tomb next to Snibhøj). Obviously not so ‘unusual’ around here!

Langdysse ved Løkkeby

Access: Visible and reached from tiny farm road near Petersgård. Walk of maybe 100 metres gently uphill across field. May not be accessible if field is in crop.

Confusingly, some maps only seem to show Løkkeby as being at the coast, while others show a small village close to Tullbølle as being Løkkeby.

The Langdysse ved Løkkeby is easy to reach from Bjerrebygaard. Continue north on the 305 to Tullbølle. A short way into the village, take a right (Skebjergvej), probably signposted to Løkkeby. At the end of this short road, take a right. Follow this road for a very short distance and take a left (this is Nordre Løkkebyvej, but I can’t remember if it had a sign to tell you that).

Continue for around 0.5km, then turn right (Løkkeby Srandvej) and follow this small road to bear right towards a farm on the right. The langdysse is a little way past on the right with trees growing from its mound. There is a space in the trees opposite where you can stop.

Visited 5 April 2006
Unfortunately we arrived at the langdysse with very little time to spare and in the middle of a heavy hailstorm. One of those where the hailstones actually ‘lay’, like snow.

Langeland Museum’s Oldtidsminder På Langeland calls the monument “Langeland’s smukkeste fortidsminder” (which as far as I can tell means ‘most beautiful’).

It’s nice but I don’t think I’d go that far – even allowing for the filthy weather and rushed visit! It reminded me a little of East Kennett longbarrow with far fewer trees. The weather was such that I couldn’t get any decent shots from further away to show its setting or even the whole monument.

We waited a few minutes & the hail abated somewhat, so I hurried across the field to the barrow. Like quite a few langdysse, the kerbstones are, curiously, partway up the mound. The capstone of the single chamber is exposed on the top of the mound and from what little I could see (and remember) from my rushed examination, the chamber looks like it is filled with earth.

Ristinge Klint

Access: Pleasant walk around 0.5km along pretty good but undulating coastal path.

Easy to reach from Hesselbjerg landysse. Head into Hesselbjerg village and take a left, then almost immediately follow the road round to the right towards Nyby and Ristinge. After about 2km, the road swings right and goes on to enter Ristinge. around 400 metres later the road forks – take the left and follow it to the end by the sea and park.

The road becomes a path which goes along a little back from the beach and then the ‘cliff-edge’. as the path zig-zags along, look out for a path to the right, inland. This will take you to the dolmen.

Visited 5 April 2006
Gorgeous.

Even though there was no picture, the moment I saw the map on the Visit Denmark website showing this one’s setting I knew I wanted to try to find it! I thought it might be difficult, but in the end it was easy and sooooo worthwhile.

I expected a small pile of rocks & got Chûn quoit with a 240 degree sea-view!

So far I’ve not been able to find any information at all on the ‘dyssekammer’ in English. It’ll just have to be enough to enjoy its beauty, which suits me.

Hulbjerg-jættestuen

Access: Small carpark very close to monument. Short uphill walk of maybe 20 metres on grass.

Hulbjerg-jættestuen is in the far south of Langeland, but pretty easy to reach from Kong Humble’s Grav. From there, continue south on the 305 towards Bagenkop. About 1km before it reaches Bagenkop, the 305 swings right (west), just past Søndenbro. As the road bends right, there is a smallish road off to the left (in a way, straight on) towards Gulstav & Dovnsklint. Take this (Gustalvej) and at the next junction (almost immediately) continue south.

Keep on this road for just about 1.5km and as the road kinks right, look out for a turning to left called Keldsnorvej. You don’t want this, this turning, but take the next right onto Søgardsvej (may be signposted to Bagenkop). As you approach, you should be able to see the monument ahead to the right on the hillside. There is a small car park on the right as you reach the monument.

Visited 5 April 2006
The word jættestuen or jættestue seem to just be used as an umbrella term. Other monuments similar to this are called runddysser (the ‘r’ seems to make it plural) or højs....

Beautifully cared for, this is an imposing and very complete barrow, which has a huge ‘pre-mound’ – presumably natural. If not, it’s a spectacular feat. Although I can’t read Danish, Oldtidsminder På Langeland seems to say it was restored in 1960-61.

The passage is a bit of a squeeze, but the chamber is pretty impressive once inside.

Dyssekammer i Herslev

Access: In a field a few metres from a small road to Herslev, around 50 metres from junction with 305.

Near Herslev on Langeland. From the 9, at the eastern edge of Rudkøbbing take the 305 south for about 6km. Look out for a small road to the left (east) towards Herslev itself and Illebølle. The dolmen is on your right almost immediately, and we were able to pull in without obstructing the narrow road.

Visited 5 April 2006
A lovely dolmen more-or-less right next to the 305. And if I remember correctly, there is a factory with big chimneys ‘behind’ it, luckily not close enough to be too distracting. (In fact if I am right, I managed to ‘hide’ it behind the monument in all my photos!)

Kong Humble’s Grav

Featured in The Megalithic European (TME) page 168, but as Jane has explained in her fieldnote, the place poor Julian describes is not Kong Humble’s Grav.

Access: Park at nearest farm which has an honesty box. Walk around 300 metres across field on path that was marked when we were there.

Kong Humble’s Grav is just north of Humble, on Langeland. From the 9, at the eastern edge of Rudkøbbing take the 305 south for about 12km.

Not far after passing through Lindelse, the road distinctly zig-zags through a small village, probably Bogetofte or the outskirts of Kædeby. About 0.75km further south, take a left turn (east) towards Brandsby, by a large white church.

The langdysse is in the field behind the church, but continue past the church maybe 200 metres and turn left up an open drive into a farmyard, where you can park. And – please – donate to the honesty box!

Visited 5 April 2006
A very cool but largely denuded langdysse, a massive 55 metres long with a fine kerb of 77 large stones. The exposed single chamber is a beauty and all its main stones are pretty hefty!

In contrast to the strange place on the hill opposite the church that Julian describes and photographs in TME, Kong Humble’s Grav lies on open undulating (farm) land, with huge views all round and a very big sky!

Suldrup

Long/lat coordinates are probably right but it was difficult to be 100% sure from aerial photo on the inline map. From the street names and memory, it seems right and I couldn’t see where else it could be!

Access: Right next to residential street, just a few metres into trees. There is a small parking placeSuldrup is around 20km SSW of Aalborg. Travelling north on the E45 I left at junction 33, turning west onto the 535 past Haverslev, heading for Sønderup.

Just under 5km from the motorway, I turned right at a roundabout, still heading for Sønderup. After just over 1km, I took a left into and through Sønderup. Towards the far end of the village, the road bends gently right – keep on this road for just over 5 km and you will be in Suldrup.

Almost as soon as you enter the village, take the 2nd left onto Vikingevej and then first right onto Jættestuevej. When you reach the end, the monument is opposite you, slightly to your left.

Visited 6 April 2006
Right in the centre of the village or small town of Suldrup stands this very nice little passage grave. A little neglected and abused by (I suspect) kids on mountainbikes (a narrow track over the top) its mound is still in place and its chamber quite impressive.

Unfortunately, due to its ‘urban survivor’ position, there is a metal gate which at the time of my visit was locked and I couldn’t find any information on whether it’s at all possible to get access.

This was a shame, as it is one of the Danish passage graves that has an obscure 2nd chamber behind the main one. Frustratingly, I could see its tiny entrance, but couldn’t get to it or get any idea of how big it is etc.

Not one to write home about, but well worth visiting if it’s not too far out of your way!

Jernalderkældrene

Access: There is a grassed area between the road and the trees surrounding the site where I parked – it seems to be the intention, but I can’t guarantee it! A path leads north through the trees into a clearing, where you will find the site.

Just outside Frederikshavn on the 585. Turn off the E45 onto the 585 west towards Kilden, Gærum, Øster Vrå and Brønderlev. Just over 1.5km along the 585 there is a right turn north, with traffic islands.

Immediately after the traffic islands, trees appear on both sides of the 585, just at this point on the right (north) there is a small entrance – drive in! I parked on the grassy area to the left.

Visited 6 April 2006
Hmmm. This is a strange site! These are some iron-age ‘cellars’ thought to be the only remains of a settlement and thought to have been used for ‘storage’. As you can probably guess, I had trouble finding any more information! (I came across the place on the Visit Denmark website.)

The fact that on my visit, the strange stone settings were mostly so flooded that they looked like ornamental ponds just added to the oddness.

Stenstuen

Access: You can park very close to the west end of the langdysse. A walk of only a few metres across a field, but the langdysse itself stands on a steepish moundlike ridge (presumably at least partly formed by ploughing each side....)

In the north of Jutland, off the west side of the 585 between Frederikshavn and Brønderlev. Just south of Gærum there are a set of 3 højs more-or-less right next to the 585 – one to the west of the road and 2 to the east.

If you stop here and look to the WNW of the western barrow, you will see a ‘suspicious-looking’ ridge with scrubby growth. This is in fact the langdysse.

Visited 6 April 2006
I spotted this langdysse while taking a quick look at some nearby højs on the 585, on my way to Jættestuen Blakshøj. To the WNW I could see a ‘mound-cum-ridge’ which I thought for the sake of 5 minutes needed closer inspection.

My suspicions were confirmed by an information board which gave the name of this langdysse. From my quick look, it doesn’t seem terribly well-preserved and so I decided not to spend any time here, as I had so much to see....

Jættestuen Blakshøj

Access: Walk of a few metres from small layby next to farm buildings.

In the north of Jutland, off the west side of the 585 between Frederikshavn and Brønderlev. Just south of Gærum there are a set of 3 højs more-or-less right next to the 585 – one to the west of the road and 2 to the east, see Stenstuen.

South of here, the next road off to the west goes to a large industrial-looking farm. Take this and drive to the small layby next to the farm buildings.

Visited 6 April 2006
A beauty!!! At 4.5 metres high, apparently one of the largest burial mounds in Denmark. Huge chamber from a short and low passage.

The passage is set in a curious section of the mound which is ‘scooped away’. I would assume that this is from a rather insensitive excavation, not part of the original form of the monument.

Dysse ved Tornby

Access: Walk of around 300 metres across fields from carpark.

Tornby is in the far north of Jutland about 7km south of Hirtshals. The simplest route from the south (not the way I went!) is to take the E39 between Aalborg and Hirtshals, leaving at junction 3 onto the 35 west through Hjørring.

Just outside Hjørring, the 35 meets the 55 at a roundabout. Turn right onto the 55 (north), which will take you to Tornby. Continue through Tornby and a short distance out the other (north) side.

On the right (east), you will soon see some large factories or warehouses. Opposite these there is a line of trees next to the road and behind them is a carpark, partly for a restaurant-type place (I think that’s what it was) and partly for the monument.

Walk to the southern end of the carpark and follow a path SSW. You should almost immediately be able to see the dolmen a few hundred yards in front of you towards the town.

Visited 6 April 2006
A classic late neoloithic dolmen, standing in the almost ploughed out remanants of its mound. Three chamber stones and a chunky littlle capstone.

Another stone stands in front of the ‘open’ end of the dolmen, which I guess could be a moved chamber stone or kerbstone. I suppose it could possibly be a passage stone – if it had a passage – but it seems to be orientated wrongly for that.

Would be a great place to hang out if it wasn’t raining, but on the day I visited it just didn’t stop all day....

Hvisselhøj

Access: Right next to road, I think I pulled a couple of wheels onto the verge so that vehicles could get past.

In the far north of Jutland, near the north edge of Limforden, close to Fjerritslev and Gundestup, fairly near Aalbog. Take the 11/29 between Aalborg in the east and Thisted in the west, heading for Fjerritslev.

About 10km east of Fjerritslev, at Skovsgård take the turning south towards Attrup. After around 2km, at Torsley, turn right and after just under 3km, take a left just before a large barrow on the right. This will take you to the monument which will be on you right after a few hundred metres.

Visited 6 April 2006
Excellent! A smallish but fascinating multi-chambered passage grave. I’d seen a few that I’d not been able to get into that had at least one chamber ‘behind’ the main chamber, but none that I could get into. (See Suldrup for example.)

It’s a shame that the restoration of the barrow hasn’t been more ‘sympathetic’, as it contains a lot of incredibly intrusive modern metal supports. Mind you, at least it means the thing’s still standing and you can even get in – with a bit of a squeeze, and once in it’s a crouched waddle around....!

As well as this one, there are tons of barrows in this area. There are few in the fields to the NE & NW, and a couple by the road immediately to the north.

There is a particularly striking one on high ground to the south, which you can see clearly from Hvisselhøj. It may even be within sight of Limfjord, a little further to the south. Gunderstrup is also very close.

Unfortunately, I had a few more things I really wanted to see (including Gunderstrup) and a long way to drive back to Fyn, so no time left to investigate ‘possibles’.