GLADMAN

As with its not too distant neighbour at Tolleshunt Major, a little under 3.5 miles to the southwest, this fine round barrow, of copious circumference, has unfortunately been lumbered with the moniker ‘Mill Mound’, no doubt a reference to the former Virley Mill at TL948138, the latter demolished in 1900. However, don’t be fooled by such floury shenanigans. For this is the real prehistoric deal, worthy of a Paul Hollywood handshake. And then some.

Historic England has this to say:

“The barrow 380m east of Payne’s Farm is an example of a rare form of bowl barrow with a causeway across its surrounding ditch.... It survives as a hemispherical earth mound which measures 30m in diameter and c.2m in height. It is surrounded by a shallow ditch from which material was quarried during the construction of the monument. This has become partly infilled over the years but survives as a slight earthwork 3m wide and c.0.4m deep. The ditch has a causeway 5m wide on the eastern side.” [List Entry Number: 1009450]

A public footpath heads south from Colchester Road (very roughly midway between Payne’s Farm and Brooklyn) leading unerringly to the great monument, the surrounding ditch still pretty clear.

Set within arable land a little under a quarter-mile to the approx southwest of Beckingham Hall, Tolleshunt Major – the former Tudor edifice having originally been granted to the Beckingham family by the original psycho loon Henry VIII in 1545 – this fine round barrow is rather confusingly annotated as ‘Mill Mound’ upon OS mapping. As a result, one had neglected to visit until now. I mean, I might well have been enthralled by the far-out drunken tricycle antics of Camberwick Green’s Windy Miller in my, er, youth... but Prehistory was supposed to be the new Rock n’Roll, right? Not bakery, even taken to those extremes.

It should be noted that in common with quite a number of Essex villages, Tolleshunt Major DID possess a windmill hereabouts, a smock formerly standing some way to the north-west at TL902114. That is, prior to its demolition in 1924. However, please be sure not to assume this and ‘Mill Mound’ are one and the same. Historic England is clear upon this point:

“Despite some erosion in the past and the levelling of the outer bank by cultivation, the bowl barrow south-west of Beckingham Hall survives well and contains archaeological remains and environmental evidence relating to the monument and the landscape in which it was constructed. It is one of few such monuments to survive as upstanding earthworks in this area of the country, most having been levelled by cultivation.... It survives as an earth mound measuring 16m in diameter and c.2m in height... Although no longer visible at ground level, a ditch from which material was excavated for the construction of the monument, surrounds the barrow mound. This has become infilled over the years but survives as a buried feature c.2m wide.” [List Entry Number: 1009449]

I parked opposite St Nicholas’ Church and sauntered down – appropriately enough – Church Road, prior to veering right to follow a public footpath heading west. The great burial mound can be seen within the cultivated field. Best schedule a late autumn/winter visit to avoid any crops in situ.

Incidentally, there is another fine round barrow (also known as ‘Mill Mound’) at Salcott-cum-Virley, some 3.5 miles to the north-east. It would be rude not to, while you’re here?

This ‘Big Cairn’ – ‘massive’ would perhaps be the more apt adjective – stands upon the eastern aspect of Craig Twrch, an extended rocky ridge located a few miles to the east of Lampeter. Difficult to approach due to extensive bog, this inquisitive traveller thought the monument to be of somewhat unusual construction... and, for once, it would seem the professional archaeologists concur:

“Said to be 18m in diameter, this appears to be a square, drystone revetted cairn, with rounded angles surmounted by a recent, loosely built shelter. The Cairn proper stands 2.2m high. (J.Wiles 03.04.02)”

As for the state of the visitor, the withering stare of a passing fox suggested pity for the creature far less adapted to the hostile environment. Hey, tell me about it, Reynard, my friend.

A must-visit for those who appreciate the more, er... obscure areas of these Isles. And, while not necessarily adept at walking upon water, are at least resigned to wading through it. Webbed feet advantageous.

Well, what do you know? After some 30 years traipsing around The Cwmdeuddwr Hills, it comes as a pleasant if not considerable surprise to (finally) stumble across this beauty of a site on my ‘whatever list’, tucked away beside Cryn Fryn farm overlooking a particularly sinuous course of the River Wye.... or at least it would if not for the copious foliage around about these parts.

Located a little over a mile to the approx south of Llanwrthwl, a public footpath-cum farm track accesses the environs from the minor ‘dead-end’ road, where it is currently possible to park a car nearby without any undue fuss. The cairn, in my opinion, is worth such an extended wait, featuring not only significant remnants of a kerb, but a well-preserved cist with capstone deposited beside into the bargain.

Coflein has this to say:

“A cairn, 12m in diameter and 0.5m high, having a central cist, was one of a pair of similar monuments, the other... at SN97646226, having been destroyed between 1971 and 1978. [RCAHMW AP965027/52 – J.Wiles 23.04.02]”

Yes indeed, there were once two of these beauties. How sad that the ‘rebel’ luvvie protesters so prevalent these days were not around back then to lay down in front of the bulldozers? Then again, just where IS Wales, darling?

Not marked upon current OS mapping, it took me c30 years to suss there is a large standing stone here... but there you are. Then, when I did finally visit last year... it was during a torrential downpour. Anyway, Coflein reckons:

“Large standing stone, approx 2m high x 1.75m wide x 0.40m thick. Mudstone. Orientated E-W. Located near trackway and at edge of peat-cutting area (RSJ 2000)”

Visitors should also check out the ‘possible’ chambered tomb at SN93256957 and, better still, continue up the track to visit the monuments upon Banc Trehesglog... or even Crugyn Gwyddel?