GLADMAN

Set upon the western shoulder of Gyrn Ddu, far below the cairn-less summit, this is by far the best preserved of the trio of cairns in the locale of Gyrn Ddu. Such is the ‘Schiehallion-esque’ out-and-out rockiness of the summit itself that surely no artificial monument was thought necessary, even if practical?

Of similar diameter (c43ft) to the pair of monuments to the east (c45ft), this cairn, however, happily escaped the attention of ignorant muppets with a tendency to bisect scheduled ancient monuments with dry stone walls. Aside from a little disturbance on top, the cairn appears more-or-less inviolate.

The outlook, particularly westward towards the dramatic trident profile of Yr Eifl, is magnificent, albeit naturally not as far-reaching as the sweeping vista from the summit. The obvious answer – if you are able – is to sample both by beginning your expedition with an ascent of the old quarry inclines to Pen-y-Bwlch from the west, then scrambling up the steep southern flank of the eastern top... prior to circling around to the summit to take it all in. Not an expedition to be underestimated owing to the terrain underfoot descending back to Pen-y-Bwlch, but nonetheless well worth the effort.

Located below and to the west of the summit crags of Gyrn Ddu, according to CADW’s scheduling this settlement consists of:

“...the remains of a hut group, high on open hillside. Hut 1 is noticeably larger than Hut 4, (internal diameters approx. 4 m and 3 m respectively). Hut 3 (int. diam. approx. 2.2 m) has been rebuilt as a sheep shelter but this has mostly collapsed again. Hut 2 is only approx. 2 m in internal diameter. The paddock to the SW has been cleared of stone. There are other possible huts and walls in the flat area surrounding the site.”

The site can be included within a circular exploration of Gyrn Ddu from the west... note that the mountain’s fine western cairn lies close by.

Encountered during an ascent of Gyrn Ddu from the west, this is easy to misinterpret owing to the continuity of human settlement up here... so many drystone walls!

The wondrous Mr Driver from Coflein notes:

“Remains of hut circle settlement with circular and rectangular structures, set admidst the scree slopes of Gyrn Ddu”. [T. Driver, RCAHMW, 9th Jan 2009]

Every now and then The Citizen Cairn has to confess to being flabbergasted as to how such exquisitely tangible reminders of our Prehistoric forebears can remain so off the radar of this hi-tech world... hey, when military satellites can recognise a face from orbit, how can it be that this largely intact kerbed cairn overlooking the popular Cwm Bychan does not appear upon OS mapping... nor feature upon Coflein records? Indeed, the monument was apparently only scheduled by CADW in 2003...

Yeah, this is indeed the ‘real deal’, perfectly complementing the equally fabulous – yet far more well known – Bryn Cader Faner to northeast and Rhyd-yr-Eirin to approx southwest... not to mention the excellent Moel Goedog ‘circles. The location is, if anything, even better than its illustrious neighbours... magnificently ‘rugged’ with Rhinog Fawr itself looming to the approx southeast (the cairn’s fine cist is aligned upon the mountain’s summit cairns), the starkly brutal rock strata of the northern Rhinogydd to the east.... a terrain to take lightly at your peril.

Ironically, a sojourn at such an obscure monument as this is achieved without an excess of effort: a stroll up the access track to Cwm-mawr farm, followed by a short diversion (through an open field gate) from the footpath climbing the hillside beyond. I guess one just has to know it’s there, eh? Well, now you do.

Located in a wondrous position upon the southeast flank of Y Garn, the easternmost 2,000ft summit of the uncompromising Y Rhinogydd, this Bronze Age round cairn still contains the remains of a rectangular stone coffin – or cist – within its centre, together with a large kerb stone or two.

The setting is indeed spectacular, the hills rising across the valley of the Afon Mawddach crowned by the Iron Age hillforts of Foel Offrwm and Foel Faner, both well worth a visit in their own right. Gold has been found in these hills – no, really – yet, to my mind at least, this tangible reminder of past local society is worth far more than mere untarnishable metal?

Reached by a forestry track from the head of the minor dead-end road ascending Cwm Yr Wnin from Llanelltyd, the terrain hereabouts is pretty easy going by the standard of the Rhinogs. Nonetheless, the sense of ‘exposure’... of being perched above the everyday world, aloof from its petty foibles... is palpable, making this a great choice to hang out when the energy reserves are not at their highest, perhaps?

Coflein reckons:

“A round cairn (ca 7.5m in diameter) with an approximately rectangular slab sided central cist (0.2 x 0.4m). The whole is sited prominently on a hilltop with wide views. The cairn itself appears to have been robbed, probably for material used to build the large enclosure nearby. The cist would have been used for a crouched burial.” [John Latham, RCAHMW, 12 Oct 2010].

Occupying a very naturally defensive position overlooking Llanberis, to the immediate northwest of The Snowdon Massif at the very heart of Gwynedd, this small hill fort has been badly treated by successive landowners, copious dry stone walling, supplemented by barbed wire, detracting from what remains of the Iron Age defences.

Furthermore, the grandstand vista towards the aforementioned Yr Wydffa and cohorts notwithstanding, the outlook features a surfeit of what apologists might term ‘industrial heritage’, the slate quarries ravaging the western flank of Elidir Fawr across Llanberis Pass truly sufficient to make one weep.

Nevertheless, I reckon a visit here is worthwhile, particularly when riding out storm fronts upon an inclement Autumnal morning to catch rainbows arcing across the cwm. As they say, you have to be ‘in it to win it’, right? Note a well-preserved section of original walling to the north...