GLADMAN

A little under a mile to the approx northeast of the wondrous Crugyn Amlwg, this equally impressive (and overgrown) round cairn is much easier to visit, being but a short distance from the road and serviced by a ‘parking area’. Hey, it’s even signposted from said facility – although that’s not to say we’re talking ‘honey pot’ site here... far, far from it.

High summer, naturally, is not the optimum time to come if one wishes to avoid industrial-strength bramble and other troublesome vegetation. However, given the sheer volume of obscure sites waiting to be seen within Mid Wales, such advice is no doubt superfluous. Take your opportunities when you can, I say...

Coflein reckons: “A centrally disturbed, circular mound, 12m in diameter & 1.5m high”. [RCAHMW AP965050/65 J.Wiles 01.10.03]

So, c5ft high? Seemed more to me, to be fair

Possibly the (quite literally) hidden jewel in the area’s crown, this large round cairn slumbers – out of sight, out of mind – within forestry now the location of a wind farm. Coflein, to be fair, doesn’t give much to go on:

“A circular mound, c.32m in diameter, showing traces of disturbance” RCAHMW AP965050/64 – [J.Wiles 01.10.03]

Indeed, for me, it is the height of this substantial monument that is the salient factor here. One is left imagining what the scene would’ve been like, sans the trees? No doubt sweeping views etc. As it is, however, the ‘forestry clearing’ vibe is pretty intense, the surrounding foliage obscuring the nearby wind turbines towering overhead.

I approached heading south from the minor road allowing access to Blaen Gwyddgny... good idea to bring along a 1:25k map since the forestry ride is pretty overgrown and obscure. But then it would be, wouldn’t it?

Out of range when gazing across from Carn Wen a couple of years back now, last year’s visit to the wondrous ‘circle upon Bryn y Gorlan made this a must-see this time around. Well, I ain’t getting any younger – and these Mid Walian sites really do take some attitude to reach for the not-so-young. Tell me about it.

OK, the initial ascent from the road head at Allt Ty-Llwyd to the south may be upon a firm-then-grassy track... but then the map depicts Cors y Crug between said track and Crug Siarls itself. Yeah, consider: when the OS see fit to name a bog it is usually with bloody good reason! As it is, a lack of recent rainfall, corresponding to perceived conditions underfoot, tempts me to cut the corner of my intended wide swing around to the north. Sure enough, the bog isn’t much in evidence... but the industrial strength Mid Walian ‘tufty’ grass very, very much is. Floundering in the heat compounded by extreme exertion, I’m cursing my poor judgement at being suckered in like a muppet tourist, when I suddenly strike a quad bike track doubling back to cross the hill’s south-western flank. That’ll do. My intention all along, naturally.

Ascending to the summit, I’m still none the wiser regarding the position of this elusive stone circle even when accorded the aerial viewpoint. Suffice to say, the ring sits upon the lower western flank alongside an associated small(ish) cairn. Look for a wooden post immediately to the left (south-ish) for your cue. Should you choose to come, of course.

Coflein reckons the monument is definitely a stone circle:

“A small stone circle, consisting of 14 stones, the largest of which is 0.50 metres square, and positioned on its southern side. All the stones are set upright into the ground. Much of the site is obscured by reed growth.” [R.P. Sambrook, Trysor, 20 March 2012]

The eastern arc is heavily overgrown with the aforementioned reeds, but, crucially, remains in situ. The orthostats are also pretty large for a Mid Walian ‘circle. Yeah, so here we have a relatively intact stone circle with a vibe so intense as to sink a thousand punters within its protective bog. Truly, a classic location. Just refrain from cutting any corners if it has been raining, you hear?

Now, The Citizen Cairn must declare upfront that this is not the sort of site I would normally seek out... set within the grounds of an idyllic hotel and considered a ‘romantic’ venue for wedding parties to pose for snaps after ‘the event’. Yeah, “Oh, this one’s me and Britney about to fall to our deaths... doesn’t she, like, look, like lush, innit?” Yeah, OK, one has to pay an entrance fee and enter through a locked gate as – to judge by the not-so-modern graffiti carved into the sandstone – have many, many before me.... but I have to say this is actually a rather fabulous place.

Consider: not only are the sandstone crags (the ‘High Rocks’) impressive in stature; they are also the site of a number of later Mesolithic shelters which one can explore, albeit a bit boggy underfoot in places. Furthermore, the crags, themselves, form the northwestern flank of a multi-phase Iron Age hillfort perched above. As it was, I couldn’t make out a great deal of the ‘landward’ defences of the promontory, but nevertheless, this is a thought-provoking, aesthetically appealing place.

The sandstone crags are interconnected by a high-level ‘aerial walkway’, a rather unique feature... although if you’re bringing children along ensure you enforce the same restrictions as for hill walks: needless to say, a slip could have potentially fatal consequences. Just like for our Gaz and Britney.

Well, I was a bit at a loss as to what ‘designation’ to apply to this one – isn’t it curious how we humans always have the need to define things? – seeing as that shameful qualifier ‘Destroyed’ seems most inappropriate here.

To attempt to clarify/explain: it would seem – or at least appear highly likely to me – that once upon a time, the natural feature that is Barrow Hill was crowned by an earthen barrow covering a cist. Kent’s HER informs us that: “As the result of denudation of a burial mound of marsh turf, the outline of a  collapsed oblong cist of Kentish ragstone was visible on Higham Marshes. It was excavated in 1880 by Mr E.L.Arnold and found to contain a crouched skeleton (very crushed) accompanied by 79 beads which lay as if they had originally been around the neck. the beads were Porosphaera globularis (a fossil sponge common in the Upper Chalk and taking a globular form), ranging from 7 to 26 mm. in diameter and naturally perforated. The mound stood on a gravelly hillock which probably stood out of the water when all the surrounding district was swamp”.

Now, although there appears to be no conclusive proof that Barrow Hill was the location of said cist, the fact that: 1) Barrow Hill is the only such feature (as described) in the locality; 2) The locals saw fit to name the place ‘Barrow Hill’... suggests it is a pretty good bet.

So, should one focus upon the destroyed round barrow that once was... or the natural feature that simply HAD to be the site for it back then? Sacred Hill seems fair enough, don’t you think?

The HER record is here:
heritagegateway.org.uk/Gateway/Results_Single.aspx?uid=416875&resourceID=19191

Historic England reckons Stumblebury is a:

“... bowl barrow situated on the crest of a ridge facing south-west in an area of undulating chalk downland. The barrow has a mound 20m in diameter and 1m high surrounded by a ditch from which material was quarried during the construction of the monument. Having become partially infilled over the years, the ditch is now only visible as a slight depression to the south-west of the mound; the remainder survives as a buried feature c.3m wide. The barrow was recorded as ‘Stumleburgh’ in a land grant of 1289”

However... upon visiting said hilltop 28/5/23, I reluctantly came away without any definite identification, such is the disturbed, overgrown nature of the (apparently ‘private’...yawn) woodland to the south of The North Downs Way. Hence no image. Incidentally, I have to say the almost psychotic surfeit of Private/Keep Out etc etc signs in the locale of Otford does the locals no credit whatsoever.... couldn’t wait to get away.

This large Bronze Age funerary monument forms yet another piece of the (very) extensive Pumlumon jigsaw, set upon a 1,493 feet high hilltop overlooking Llyn Craig-y-pistyll, some 4.5 miles west(ish) of Pen Pumlumon-Fawr.

Now The Citizen Cairn had thought he’d seen all Pumlumon has to offer over the years... so it just goes to show that: 1) experience doesn’t necessarily stop one from acting like a muppet... thinking you know it all, right?; 2) the plethora of Pumlumon’s prehistoric riches would appear to know no bounds; 3) just because nothing is shown upon the map... doesn’t necessarily mean there is nothing more to find.

But of course, tangible prehistoric reminders such Pen Craig y Pistyll’s cairn are but an excuse – albeit an immensely rewarding one for their own sake – to get out and about upon unfamiliar (or, indeed, familiar) hills and take in that wild vibe. Here, as it happens, the initial impression upon arrival at the start of the walk is not exactly salubrious: the stark, ruined miner’s barracks of the former Bwlchglas Lead Mine most certainly NOT a sight for sore eyes. Persevere, however, since a short, steep climb sees the traveller soon arrive at a well-made byway heading for Bwlch yr Adwy. These tracks are not my thing, however, so an ascent of the hillside to the immediate south beckons... and thus Pen Craig y Pistyll.

It would be rude not to make the continuation across the bwlch to view another round barrow at SN71978691 before sweeping westward back to the start. Just saying. Now being an English Gentleman – and having no wish to consciously offend – that is exactly what I did

Crowning the (unnamed?) hill immediately overlooking Bwlch yr Adwy to the north, this deceptively substantial, grassy monument complements beautifully the cairn crowning Pen Craig-y-Pistyll to the south-west.... and boasts equally excellent views looking east towards the main Pumlumon ridge and west for Cardigan Bay.

Stating the obvious, I guess... but incorporate both within a high-level horseshoe walk starting from Bwlch-glas and you not only avoid the idiot trail bikers playing ‘broom brooms’ down below, but will enjoy some pretty exquisite views into the bargain.

With time very much at a premium – following an extended hang at the fine oval ‘long’ barrow within nearby Shrub’s Wood – this remained an ‘over the hedge’ view... once the extent of the fine views to be had here became apparent. Very much worth a return at some point to do the site justice.

Historic England reckons:

“The monument, a bowl barrow located on the crest of the Downs with extensive views to the south and west, includes an earthen mound encircled by a now-infilled quarry ditch. The profile or the mound suggests that it has been spread slightly by agricultural activity, but the barrow mound nevertheless survives to a height of 1.6m above the surrounding land and measures 21m in diameter. The surrounding ditch has been infilled by the soil eroded and spread from the mound so that it is no longer visible. The diameter of the mound and ditch together is 26m.”

Incidentally, travellers who – upon finding themselves in the area – may have cause to wonder what the ‘Tumulus’ marked upon the map within not overly distant Juniper Wood (TR06926 47020) is like.... should note this is in fact an Anglo-Saxon/Viking era round barrow – or ‘hlaew’, to use the correct terminology.

Needless to say, well worth the effort, but a little outside the remit of TMA....

3/4 of a mile to the northeast of the fine long barrow beside Jackets Field, this round barrow is well worth adding to the day’s itinerary... if only to enjoy the tranquil woodland clearing setting. Heavily overgrown – and featuring an exquisite mantle of bluebells – during my late Spring visit, the small central cairn erected upon the monument might have suggested a round cairn anywhere but here upon the North Downs.

Also note the ‘Mound’ shown upon the 1:25K map at TR034502: seeing as the long barrow is also annotated as such – and the circumference has been demarcated/protected by woodland matter – what odds this also represents the remains of a round barrow?

Historic England notes the following:

“...The monument includes a bowl barrow situated on a clay-capped, chalk hill forming part of the Kent Downs. The barrow has a roughly circular mound 16m in diameter and 1m high surrounded by a ditch from which material used to construct the barrow was excavated. The ditch has become infilled over the years but survives as a buried feature c.2m wide.”

I first came here some 18 years ago... leaving without ‘postable’ photos, owing to the highly overgrown state of the monument at that time. I did not, however, leave imageless... those vivid pictures that remain within the mind long after a compelling event has (apparently) passed.

Yeah, such was the vibe that day that I am compelled to visit once again following an extended sojourn within not-too-distant King’s Wood. To see if things have changed in the interim? As it happens, they haven’t. At least not to any great extent, the great ‘oval mound’ still remains cloaked in foliage, the vibe still incredibly intense within the welcoming bosom of so much vegetation.

Historic England has the following to say:

“The monument in Shrub’s Wood, an oval barrow or burial mound dating from the Neolithic period, includes not only a large earthen mound but also the broad ditches which flank the mound. The mound itself is orientated E-W, measures 38m in length, up to 19m in width and survives to an impressive 2m above the level of the surrounding land at its highest point. On either flank of the mound, and extending along its full length, are ditches from which the earth was quarried for its construction. Having been largely infilled by erosion of the mound and the ditch sides, these slightly curving ditches are now broad and shallow, measuring typically 5m across but only 0.5m deep. The ditch on the southern side is the more easily visible.”

So, to translate: the long barrow is still some 125ft long – which is pretty long, to be fair – and over 6ft high. Yeah, the inhabitants of Bodsham are lucky people, methinks.

Marked upon current 1:25k OS mapping as ‘Mound’, this proved to be an unexpectedly fine, obscure long barrow.... of which I was previously ignorant until but a week beforehand. Aren’t such monuments the best ones? Part of a trio of well-preserved long barrows in the extended locale of the Great Stour (along with the excellent – if very, very overgrown – Bodsham... and Cope’s celebrated Julliberrie’s Grave), the monument still rises to over 6ft high at the south-eastern terminus.... and is a – frankly whopping – c230ft in length!

Historic England’s scheduling has this to say:

“...The Long Barrow is situated on level ground at the top of the North Downs scarp overlooking the valley of the Great Stour. It is oriented SE-NW, with the SE end broader and surviving to a greater height. The most distinctive feature of the monument is the elongated earthen mound, measuring some 70m in length and 10-12m in width. It stands to a height of 2m above the surrounding area at the SE end, and 1m at the NW end. Less obvious but nevertheless discernible are two long but shallow depressions alongside the mound which are now no more then 20-30cm deep but which are the filled-in remains of two deep flanking ditches, the same length as the mound itself, from which earth and chalk was quarried to make the mound. No excavations appear to have taken place at this monument, but its form is distinctively that of a Neolithic burial mound. Similar examples which have been excavated have shown that a burial chamber containing the remains of a number of individuals can be expected at the eastern end of the monument....”

Unmarked upon existing OS mapping, this is a rather fine cist set in the locale of the Teifi Pools... source of the river... tucked between the extended ‘Green Desert’ of Cwmdeuddwr and Pumlumon.

Coflein notes:

“Located just off the crest of a ridge on W-facing sloping ground at 405m above OD, near the head of a stream valley. The cairn is a turf-covered stony mound measuring 6m in diameter and 0.5m high. The body of the cairn contains some small boulders. At its centre lies a rifled cist. It consists of four upright and leaning slabs and measures internally 1.18m (N-S) by 0.72m. The capstone, perhaps broken up or removed, is no longer visible.” [D.K.Leighton 29 March 2005]

Travellers approaching the great cemetery upon Moel y Llyn from the east will, naturally, encounter this ‘bonus’ pair of cairns as a rather splendid hors d’oeuvres.

Coflein reckons:

“One of two closely-spaced cairns located one above the other on the rising south-east side of a col below the eastern slopes of Moel y Llyn, close to a track and a forestry boundary. The lower (westernmost) of the two measures 11m (NE-SW) by 9m and 0.5m high on the uphill side, 2m above the track which passes by on the north-west....” [David Leighton, RCAHMW, 12 June 2012]

Historic England summarises this impressive monument thus:

“A cairn situated on the flat crest of the south-east spur of Royal Hill at 395.0m OD being a mound of partly-turf-covered large stones with a depression in the centre. Its diameter is 16.0m and its maximum height 1.6m.”

Clearly, not a site to miss when visiting the other excellent cairns/cists in the locale of Royal Hill.

The most satisfying discovery of an out-and-back walk from NantyMaen to Bryn Cosyn – not least due to its excellent positioning overlooking the Groes Fawr – this monument also features the remnants of a cist. Hey, Coflein postulates more than one, but there you are:

“Denuded kerb cairn with the remains of one and possibly two cists”. [J.Wiles 31.01.02]

According to Coflein, the base of this ‘marker cairn’ is indeed of prehistoric ancestry:

“A more recent cairn, 2 metres by 2 metres, 1 metre high, built on top of earlier Bronze Age cairn” [J. J. Hall, Trysor, 8th February 2013]

Coflein reckons this monument, another of an extended group in the locality of the Groes Fawr, represents:

“[the]Remains of a cairn 7 metres in diameter, 0.4 metres high. On the southeast side small upright stones along 1 metre of the perimeter are the remains of kerbing. There is a fence along the south side”. [J. J. Hall, Trysor, 9th February 2013]

But one of a series of ancient cairns encountered upon a low-level trek from Nant y Maen towards Carn Gron within deepest Mid Wales...

Coflein reckons the monument is:

“A rather irregular cairn, c.6.0m in diameter & 0.6m high, showing elements of kerbing indicating a ring, c.5.0m in diameter; a probable central cist is 1.5m NNE-SSW by 0.7m.” [source: Briggs 1994 (Cardigan County Hist. I), 180-1 fig38.5) J.Wiles 21.07.04]

To be fair, the posted images say all there is to say about the quality of this excellent cist – for me, the finest of the monuments clustered around Bellever Tor.

Located within sight of the nearby stone row, this well-preserved cist – like its neighbour – is not marked upon current OS mapping... forming but one of the Cwmdeuddwr Hill’s many, many prehistoric gems just waiting to be discovered.

Two Bronze Age cairns standing overlooking Cwrt-y-Cadno (The Fox Court) upon the south-western flanks of Mynydd Mallaen. A good excuse to lose yourself (not literally, one would hope) for several hours upon these hills. The southern monument remains pretty substantial, the northern rather ‘lower’, yet still retaining a significant diameter. Both cairns feature a prominent ‘slab’ which may, or may not have formally been part of a cist or chamber. Who knows?

Nowadays, this part of Mid Wales is a haven of tranquillity... however, this wasn’t always the case. The Romans – yeah, them – came to mine gold, the remains of their aqueducts apparently still visible if you know where to look (The Citizen Cairn did not). Later on, Cwrt-y-Cadno was a noted ‘stop-over’ point for drovers taking their cattle all the way to London. Times change, eh?

Coflein notes:

“Remains of two burial mounds, situated in enclosed pasture. The northernmost cairn (Item A: SN69594299) measures about 14m in diameter and up to 0.6m in height”. [Source: Cadw Scheduling Description. FF 04.01.2005]

Not marked upon current OS mapping, this is nevertheless well worth the dedicated Citizen Cairn seeking out. Located – as the professionals’ prosaic name makes clear – overlooking the Afon Prysor upon the uncompromising Migneint, my route, initially following the nearby Nant Gefail-y-miners from the B4391 was, to say the least, heavy going.

Coflein reckons:

“Remains of a burial cairn, probably dating to the Bronze Age, and situated within open moorland on an outcropping ridge above Afon Prysor. The stone built cairn is circular on plan and measures about 6m in diameter and up to 0.5m in height. Several definite kerbstones are visible. The cairn has been deliberately positioned below the summit of the ridge on a slight terrace but set back from the leading edge”. [Source: Cadw scheduling description. 11/08/2004 FF]

This is by far the most significant of a small cemetery of cairns located below, and a little to the south, of the great summit cairn of Craig Twrch... the well-preserved cist found to be still in situ makes a pause here imperative.

Millpond Wood is a veritable oasis of calm and greenery – assuming you discount the noisy japes of a couple of lads playing football in a nearby back garden – set between the Sevenoaks suburbs of St Johns, Seal and, appropriately enough, Wildernesse. Yeah, surrounded by housing estates as this woodland is, arguably the last thing one would expect to encounter would be a great round barrow upon its eastern fringes... and a pretty odd one at that, having been the depository for copious Mesolithic ‘artefacts’.

I approached via Pinewood Avenue – having made sure I wouldn’t annoy any locals with my finely honed lack of parking prowess – turning left, then left again as I entered the sanctuary of the canopy. Despite being bisected by a wide path, not to mention acting as the depository for some idiot’s grass cuttings, the barrow remains a substantial, upstanding monument. A rather idyllic setting, if the truth be told, particularly smothered with quite outstanding early May bluebells.

Furthermore, numerous locals out and about couldn’t have been more friendly, even a bloke who looked and sounded like Bez’s best mate. Well, all except one miserable old bat who objected about something or other – no idea what. But hey, there’s always one, isn’t there?

I found this to be a rather sad place for those with a semblance of an inquiring mind – inhabited by locals with (apparently) no knowledge of what lies within their midst – if only to judge by a guy walking his dog within the fenceline (He: ‘Sorry, there’s no hillfort here’; Me: Err.. apart from that great big earthen bank beside you, you mean?) and several similarly bemused passers-by. All very nice, friendly people, but... the mind does boggle, as they say.

So antiquarians be warned: the interior has been transformed into an orchard/Scout Camp, meaning there’s no ‘reasonable’ access without having the (apparently) belligerent landowner upon your case. Incidentally, I do hope said landowner does not dwell within the house at the bottom of Beresford Hill to the east, however, since damaging a scheduled ancient monument by erecting wooden structures upon it is obviously a criminal offence. Unlike trespass. Whatever, it’s such a shame to waste our precious heritage upon people with no concept of what it represents, but hey.

Nonetheless, worth a look from the environs in passing – I had an hour or so to spare – since there remains some pretty hefty earthworks here.

Located upon the wondrous Kerry Ridge between – significantly, perhaps? – the sources of the Severn tributary Afon Miwl (River Mule) and Afon Tefeidiad (River Teme), these are two pretty substantial round barrows, albeit sadly isolated from the track by barbed wire Why, oh why do they do this? I was able to cross over without any damage/incident, but please bear this in mind.

Coflein reckons:

SO1177085090: “...24m in diameter and 1.0m high, an excavation trench of 1912, which produced a cinerary urn and details of mound construction, is still apparent.”

SO1167085040: “... 24.5m in diameter and 1.7m high, excavated in 1926 producing numerous flints, an inhumation and three cremation burials.”

[J.Wiles 28.08.02]

OK, not the most upstanding fort you’ll ever see, having been much impacted over the years by gravel workings... however, well worth stopping off for a visit, seeing as this is a fine corner of Essex.

In summary, Historic England reckons:

“A slight univallate hillfort which lies roughly in the centre of the Dengie peninsular, on a plateau rather than a hilltop. The defences include a bank and external ditch, which as visible on the east & south of the enclosure as earthworks. Bronze Age and Iron Age. There is conjectural evidence (through finds) for reoccupation in the Roman period and in the early Anglo-Saxon period.”

Well seen – assuming one knows what it represents – from the fantastic drystone ramparts of Foel Faner, this small promontory fort is not recorded by either OS or Coflein; however GAT (PRN 19655) have this to say:

“A small rounded hillock forming a promontory has a grassed-over bank along the neck of the promontory. The bank is still steep on the outside, partly degraded by stock trampling in the past but now stable. It is c.3m wide and up to 1m high on the inner side. There is no external ditch but there is an internal quarry ditch most clear at the east about 3m wide. There is no obvious entrance. Parts of the rest of the hillock are naturally sheer but at the S has relatively accessible slopes although there is no evidence of a bank there. The earthworks are clearly visible from Moel Faner and it is surprising that neither Gresham or the OS noticed them. The ramparts appear to be earthworks rather than walls. There are no signs of internal huts or platforms. (Smith, 2006)”

Driving north upon Seale Road, the traveller intent upon ascending Long Hill is alerted to the existence of this barrow cemetery – actually a rare ‘triple bell barrow’ (the only other example I can recall being the Advent Triple Barrow upon Bodmin Moor) – by the access drive to ‘Three Barrows Place’ to his/her left. Ask here if, like The Citizen Cairn, you’d much rather spread harmony than discord... since, in retrospect, methinks the multiple monument sits upon private land.

Although heavily overgrown, clearly this was – hey, still remains – a well-preserved, impressive site. Historic England has this to say:

“The monument includes a triple bell barrow situated on a low ridge in the Lower Greensand. It comprises three mounds in a slightly offset line running NNW-SSE and surrounded by a single ditch and outer bank. The northern mound is 10m in diameter and 0.8m high, the middle mound 16m in diameter and 1.8m high and the southern mound is 13m in diameter and 1m high. There is a hollow in the top of the central mound suggesting that it was once partially excavated. Around the mounds is a level platform, or berm, which is contained by a single ditch. This has become partially infilled over the years, the majority of it surviving as a buried feature; however, it can still be seen at ground level on the eastern side of the monument where it survives to 3m wide and 0.3m deep. Beyond the ditch are the remains of an outer bank 4.5-5m wide and 0.2m high which is also best preserved on the eastern side of the monument.”

Note that the two bowl barrows upon Long Hill to the approx northwest are pretty substantial... so you’ll want to see them, too. It’d be rude not to, while you’re here.

There are actually two bowl barrows here upon Long Hill (Crooksbury Hill is some way to the approx northwest): that to the northwest, substantial and reasonably well preserved; its companion to the south-east is a little less upstanding but still pretty voluminous. One assumes Rhiannon is referring to the excellent triple bell barrow upon Turners Hill located within woodland to the approx southeast? The siting and vibe are excellent, with sweeping views across Crooksbury Common to the south.

Historic England has the following to say:

“The monument includes two bowl barrows, aligned north-west to south-east, situated on a south-facing rise on the Lower Greensand. The northern barrow comprises a mound 22m in diameter and 2m high with a surrounding ditch from which material was quarried during the construction of the monument. This is no longer visible at ground level, having become infilled over the years, but survives as a buried feature c.3m wide. The second barrow, less than 20m to the south-east, has a mound 16m in diameter and 1.1m high with a slight central hollow suggesting that the barrow was once partially excavated. This too is surrounded by a quarry ditch which survives as a buried feature c.2.5m wide.”

Access to the common is via an off-road parking area from Seale Road. Follow the track heading to your left, prior to veering uphill to the right.

Four bowl barrows crest King’s Ridge upon Frensham Common: a large, solitary monument to the north (SU85329 40783) with a trio to its immediate south (SU85340 40644).

Much to my chagrin, the common proved to be an overwhelmingly popular haunt for dog walkers, equestrians, mountain bikers and moronic motorbikers during Easter 2023... none of which, as you would no doubt expect in the Surrey Stockbroker Belt, appeared to have the slightest interest in visiting ancient heritage.

Ironically, however – and for all the wrong reasons – it would appear this was not always the case, a perusal of The Surrey Archaeological Society’s website revealing the extent of serious past erosion by ignorant common users – damn them all to blazes! Sadly, this has necessitated the isolation of the monuments within fencelines, something I abhor, but understand in this instance... although a kissing gate would’ve been a welcome – and rather obvious – amenity to placate those venturing upon the common to use their brain. As it is I was able to access the triple alignment owing to damage to said fence... the latter something a pedestrian gate may well have prevented. But there you are – please bear this in mind should you choose to come.

Historic England has the following to note:

Northern:
“... a bowl barrow situated on the crest of a ridge in the Lower Greensand. The barrow mound has dimensions of 20m north-south by 23m east-west by 1.8m high. Surrounding the mound is a ditch from which material was quarried during the construction of the monument. This is no longer visible, having become infilled over the years, but survives as a buried feature c.3m wide.”

Triple alignment:
“... three bowl barrows aligned north-south and situated on the crest of a ridge in the Lower Greensand. The northern and largest of the three barrows has a mound 30m in diameter and 2m high with a slight dip in the centre suggesting that it was once partially excavated. This mound is surrounded by a ditch from which material was quarried during the construction of the monument. Visible remains of this survive to the north and west of the mound as an earthwork 3m wide and 0.5m deep; elsewhere it survives as a buried feature. The central barrow has a mound 15m in diameter and 1.1m high. This too shows evidence of probable partial excavation and is also surrounded by a ditch still visible as a slight depression to the east and west of the mound. The southern barrow comprises a mound 18m in diameter and 1.2m high with a surrounding ditch 3m wide and 0.5m deep visible to the east and south.”

Located within ‘private woodland’ to the approx southeast of Godstone, near Leigh Place, this represents the substantial remains of an inland Iron Age promontory fort, the curving defensive cross bank still apparently in excess of 8ft high – to be honest, it looked taller.

Although there is no public access – arguably society should review the community obligations of any landowner in such a position? – a public footpath to the immediate east of the site does nonetheless allow a pretty good impression of what is clearly an impressive addition to Surrey’s prehistoric story. OK, the noisy A22 does run immediately below, but there you are. Combine a visit with a viewing of Godstone’s Bronze Age round barrows just over a mile distant and your time will surely be well spent.

The site is a scheduled ancient monument:

“The monument includes a promontory fort situated on a spur which projects to the west from a sandstone hill around 1.4km to the south east of Godstone. The promontory fort’s defences were constructed across the neck of the spur and survive as a NNE-SSW aligned, approximately 110m long, curving bank around 15m wide and 2.6m high, flanked to the east by an outer ditch up to 15m wide and 1.4m deep. The eastern edge of the ditch has been destroyed by the construction of the modern A22 Godstone bypass during the mid-1980s, and this area is therefore not included in the scheduling. Access to the interior of the fort was provided by a simple gap at the south western end of the ramparts. Contemporary buildings, storage pits and associated structures and features will have covered much of the steeply-sided spur top, and traces of these can be expected to survive in the form of below ground archaeological features. During World War II, the monument was used as an aircraft observation post, represented by a small trench dug into the southern sector of the monument.”

Refer: O’Connell, M, Poulton, R, ‘Surrey Archaeological Collections’ in An Excavation at Castle Hill, Godstone, , Vol. 74, (1983), 213-215

At 1,713ft Gyrn Ddu – together with its slightly lower neighbour Gyrn Goch – may well not feature upon the itineraries of those route-marching muppets who pigeonhole the Great Outdoors by the sole criterion of ‘height’ above Ordnance Datum... however, more fool them, I say. Particularly if one happens to possess a penchant for ancient upland cairns... a Citizen Cairn, you might say?

Now Gyrn Ddu has not one, but a trio of such enigmatic monuments perched upon its eastern (two) and western shoulders, all of which can be visited by way of a circular walk starting from the A499, below to the west. In addition, a number of ancient hut groupings can be seen along the way... hey, the former homes of the folks who erected the cairns back in the day, right? Makes sense to me.

Beware of the so-called ‘experts’ who may tell you this is an ‘easy walk’. For sure, the logical anti-clockwise route from Rock Cottage, albeit a touch steep in places, may well be upon grass all the way to these two eastern cairns.... but any punter making the progression to the summit and subsequent descent to the fine western monument will encounter far rougher terrain more reminiscent of Y Rhinogydd. So watch those ankles...

The cairns upon this eastern shoulder are unfortunately bisected by parasitical drystone walls clearly sourced from the monuments, yet nevertheless remain pretty substantial: Coflein reckons both are c45ft in diameter, the southern somewhat higher nowadays (although whether there was originally such disparity is a moot point, given the damage). Interestingly, I noted another, smaller cairn immediately beyond the northern monument. Do we have a cemetery here?

Whatever, it is the utterly wondrous vistas towards the rest of Lleyn – Tre’r Ceiri and Mynydd Carnguwch taking centre stage – not to mention more-or-less the whole of Northern Snowdonia, which form la pièce de résistance of this place.

Located between the mighty northern escarpment of Cadair Idris and Dolgellau, this well-preserved Bronze Age funerary cairn still possesses its former capstone (albeit somewhat the worse for wear) perched upon the rim.

I approached from the hamlet of Pandy Gader to the east, a public footpath negotiating the wondrous Afon Arran and the fields/woodland beyond to arrive at the farm at Coed Croes. As you would expect, I, er, got a bit confused at this point, so ensure you pack your map or blunder around like a muppet.

The monument occupies a fine, elevated position looking north to the great hillfort of Foel Offrwn and Rhobell Fawr upon the skyline. OK, the approach may be a tad ‘fiddly’ for my navigational skill set, but the tranquil vibe and excellent archaeology are easily worth such route-finding trifles...

Coflein doesn’t have anything to say. However, GAT reckons the monument is:

“A grassed-over simple rounded cairn with a large hollow, the robbing pit, in the centre, at 3m x 2.5m & 1m deep.... Two large slabs each c.1m long lie alongside the robbing pit and could be cist cover slabs”. [Smith, 2001]

The former local name for the site – ‘Twll y crochan aur’ (’pit of the golden cauldron’) – might be attributed to the treasure-seeking former owner of Coed Croes farm... a certain Victorian by the name of Mr. Humphreys. [Dancer, A. M. , 1968, Journal of the Merionethshire Historical and Record Society].

Not a castle... but a much older Iron Age fortress overlooking Cardigan Bay, not far from the traditional seaside attractions of Barmouth upon Snowdonia’s western coast.

Yeah, set within the scenic splendour of the rugged southern Rhinogydd, this hillfort looks – and indeed is – the real deal, particularly if viewed perched upon its crag from the north. Unlike me, however, you’ll want to approach from the green track below to the south.... unless trademark Rhinog ankle-twisting boulders, camouflaged within copious heather, is your thing? Nah, thought as much.

OK, the enclosure is unfortunately bisected by a high drystone wall, another idiosyncratic feature of this wondrous mountain landscape; nevertheless, a significant volume of drystone defences still remains in situ. So, if you like your hillforts wild and uncompromising, yet not too far from civilisation, this one is for you.

Don’t forget to drop in on the nearby – and chronically neglected – Bronze Age ring cairn upon Mynydd Llanaber while you’re here.

Coflein notes:

Castell Llanaber is a sub-rectangular hillfort approximately 48m x 34m... and is crossed by a modern wall. The wall possibly masks the entrance. A rectangular structure approximately 10m square and set within the south-west angle is thought to be a later sheepfold.” [J.Wiles, RCAHMW – 11/2/2004]

This massive Bronze Age ‘Ring Cairn’ – located in the southern foothills of Y Rhinogydd above Llanaber and blessed with a fine, sweeping view of Cardigan Bay – could have been a jewel in the prehistoric crown of this beautiful coastline. Could have.....

Sadly, it now serves as a dumping ground for field clearance detritus... a rusting bath, presumably placed here for animal husbandry purposes, highlighting a lack of respect for those pioneer farmers who worked this land millennia ago. But hey, it’s not too late.

Thankfully, the well-preserved, wondrous hillfort Castell Llanaber is nearby to help restore the feelgood factor for those who do give a damn about Wales’ heritage. As it is, the ring cairn’s substantial circular footprint is nevertheless worth checking out in passing.

Coflein gives the monument’s dimensions thus:

“A circular bank of turf-covered stones, 3.0m wide & 0.5m high, 20m overall diameter.” [J.Wiles 04.11.04]

Another example of hindsight being a wondrous thing...

To be fair, I was far too engaged with making it to the summit of Rhinog Fawr to have made a serious attempt to find this... even if I had have been aware. However, should anyone else choose to come this way, it would appear one must walk right past during the ascent.

GAT reckons:

“The feature.... was created on the upper face of a large angular natural block of stone, about 1.4m high and 2.4m long, part of an extensive boulder field of massive blocks deriving from the mountain side above... It consists of a cup and ring mark on a smooth, slightly sloping rock facing to the south... The mark is 150mm diameter overall. It has a gap at the top and possibly also at the bottom where, leading from its lower edge, is a natural weathered crack. This crack seems to have pre-dated the ring mark and was then deliberately incorporated in the design, providing a downslope ‘tail’. This is a common, but unexplained feature of the design of cup and ring marks found elsewhere, for example in Argyll, sometimes as incorporated natural cracks, sometimes as carved grooves (Morris 1977, 12-13). There are other natural weathered fissures on the rock face and it may be that these should also be considered as incorporated in the design. (Smith, 2013)“.

More supporting evidence (together with the clear alignment of the wondrous Ffridd Fron cist at SH63153238) of the prehistoric provenance of Rhinog Fawr’s summit cairn(s), perched high above to the south-east.

The 2,362ft top of Rhinog Fawr is crowned by a series of cairns, the western of which (bearing the OS trig station) appears – to these eyes – to represent a classic summit funerary monument constructed over irregular natural outcropping... in the manner of, say, Y Carneddau’s Foel Grach. Sadly, the cairn has been much vandalised by the gouging out of ‘idiot shelters’ by, well, idiots. Nevertheless, the prehistoric ancestry would appear pretty obvious, given the circumstances. The providence of the cairn standing to the east is less clear; however, on balance, the footprint is not consistent with what I would expect of a modern marker cairn. The small cairn at the eastern end of the plateau would appear a modern marker.

The Gwynedd Archaeological Trust (GAT PRN 5506) has this to say:

“A cairn about 10m diameter with an arc of radially set stones on the NE, stands on the W end of the summit plateau of Rhinog Fawr. The modern trig point is set on the centre of the cairn.

Enhanced natural outcrop on summit of Rhinog Fawr – utilises exposed N-S oriented strata, infilling gaps and fissures, which appear as radial, edge-set slabs at locations NE and SW. Possible kerb/original structure of cairn survives best however on west and east sides where mixed constructional techniques are evident. The original form of the cairn is presumed to have been round but with a bias to oval on a N – S axis. The centre of the cairn is made up of exposed outcrop and is surmounted by a modern OS trig pillar. There are 3 modern walker’s shelters incorporated into the circumference. There are numerous smaller cairns scattered across the summit plateau on the north-east side. All appear to be modern in their present form (Smith 2001).”

Set upon the western shoulder of Gyrn Ddu, far below the cairn-less summit, this is by far the best preserved of the trio of cairns in the locale of Gyrn Ddu. Such is the ‘Schiehallion-esque’ out-and-out rockiness of the summit itself that surely no artificial monument was thought necessary, even if practical?

Of similar diameter (c43ft) to the pair of monuments to the east (c45ft), this cairn, however, happily escaped the attention of ignorant muppets with a tendency to bisect scheduled ancient monuments with dry stone walls. Aside from a little disturbance on top, the cairn appears more-or-less inviolate.

The outlook, particularly westward towards the dramatic trident profile of Yr Eifl, is magnificent, albeit naturally not as far-reaching as the sweeping vista from the summit. The obvious answer – if you are able – is to sample both by beginning your expedition with an ascent of the old quarry inclines to Pen-y-Bwlch from the west, then scrambling up the steep southern flank of the eastern top... prior to circling around to the summit to take it all in. Not an expedition to be underestimated owing to the terrain underfoot descending back to Pen-y-Bwlch, but nonetheless well worth the effort.

Located below and to the west of the summit crags of Gyrn Ddu, according to CADW’s scheduling this settlement consists of:

“...the remains of a hut group, high on open hillside. Hut 1 is noticeably larger than Hut 4, (internal diameters approx. 4 m and 3 m respectively). Hut 3 (int. diam. approx. 2.2 m) has been rebuilt as a sheep shelter but this has mostly collapsed again. Hut 2 is only approx. 2 m in internal diameter. The paddock to the SW has been cleared of stone. There are other possible huts and walls in the flat area surrounding the site.”

The site can be included within a circular exploration of Gyrn Ddu from the west... note that the mountain’s fine western cairn lies close by.

Encountered during an ascent of Gyrn Ddu from the west, this is easy to misinterpret owing to the continuity of human settlement up here... so many drystone walls!

The wondrous Mr Driver from Coflein notes:

“Remains of hut circle settlement with circular and rectangular structures, set admidst the scree slopes of Gyrn Ddu”. [T. Driver, RCAHMW, 9th Jan 2009]

Every now and then The Citizen Cairn has to confess to being flabbergasted as to how such exquisitely tangible reminders of our Prehistoric forebears can remain so off the radar of this hi-tech world... hey, when military satellites can recognise a face from orbit, how can it be that this largely intact kerbed cairn overlooking the popular Cwm Bychan does not appear upon OS mapping... nor feature upon Coflein records? Indeed, the monument was apparently only scheduled by CADW in 2003...

Yeah, this is indeed the ‘real deal’, perfectly complementing the equally fabulous – yet far more well known – Bryn Cader Faner to northeast and Rhyd-yr-Eirin to approx southwest... not to mention the excellent Moel Goedog ‘circles. The location is, if anything, even better than its illustrious neighbours... magnificently ‘rugged’ with Rhinog Fawr itself looming to the approx southeast (the cairn’s fine cist is aligned upon the mountain’s summit cairns), the starkly brutal rock strata of the northern Rhinogydd to the east.... a terrain to take lightly at your peril.

Ironically, a sojourn at such an obscure monument as this is achieved without an excess of effort: a stroll up the access track to Cwm-mawr farm, followed by a short diversion (through an open field gate) from the footpath climbing the hillside beyond. I guess one just has to know it’s there, eh? Well, now you do.

Located in a wondrous position upon the southeast flank of Y Garn, the easternmost 2,000ft summit of the uncompromising Y Rhinogydd, this Bronze Age round cairn still contains the remains of a rectangular stone coffin – or cist – within its centre, together with a large kerb stone or two.

The setting is indeed spectacular, the hills rising across the valley of the Afon Mawddach crowned by the Iron Age hillforts of Foel Offrwm and Foel Faner, both well worth a visit in their own right. Gold has been found in these hills – no, really – yet, to my mind at least, this tangible reminder of past local society is worth far more than mere untarnishable metal?

Reached by a forestry track from the head of the minor dead-end road ascending Cwm Yr Wnin from Llanelltyd, the terrain hereabouts is pretty easy going by the standard of the Rhinogs. Nonetheless, the sense of ‘exposure’... of being perched above the everyday world, aloof from its petty foibles... is palpable, making this a great choice to hang out when the energy reserves are not at their highest, perhaps?

Coflein reckons:

“A round cairn (ca 7.5m in diameter) with an approximately rectangular slab sided central cist (0.2 x 0.4m). The whole is sited prominently on a hilltop with wide views. The cairn itself appears to have been robbed, probably for material used to build the large enclosure nearby. The cist would have been used for a crouched burial.” [John Latham, RCAHMW, 12 Oct 2010].

Occupying a very naturally defensive position overlooking Llanberis, to the immediate northwest of The Snowdon Massif at the very heart of Gwynedd, this small hill fort has been badly treated by successive landowners, copious dry stone walling, supplemented by barbed wire, detracting from what remains of the Iron Age defences.

Furthermore, the grandstand vista towards the aforementioned Yr Wydffa and cohorts notwithstanding, the outlook features a surfeit of what apologists might term ‘industrial heritage’, the slate quarries ravaging the western flank of Elidir Fawr across Llanberis Pass truly sufficient to make one weep.

Nevertheless, I reckon a visit here is worthwhile, particularly when riding out storm fronts upon an inclement Autumnal morning to catch rainbows arcing across the cwm. As they say, you have to be ‘in it to win it’, right? Note a well-preserved section of original walling to the north...

Approaching from the little Bronze Age cairn cemetery overlooking Tan-yr-Esgair to the south.... this large ‘White Cairn’ offers no hint of what lies within: a well-preserved stone coffin, or ‘cist’. What is far more obvious is that there are expansive views to be had here, the locale celebrated for producing a number of poets in its time – to judge by a nearby monument to the same. Hey, spend some time here and The Citizen Cairn wouldn’t be surprised if you managed to compose a few lines of verse yourself?

There is another larger, yet ‘grassed over’ cairn some way to the north which might also possess the scant remains of a cist? Plus another above Ffynnon Drewi (SN61906741) below to the approx south-east. Suffice to say, there’s a lot going on here.

Gurnos, a southern spur of Gorllwyn – second highest point of the Cwmdeuddwr Hills – stands sentinel overlooking Cwm Dulas. As such, it is a fine viewpoint, not least looking towards the Old Red Sandstone Escarpment of South Wales ranged upon the horizon.... although it has to be said the view down into the cwm itself is pretty special, too.
The high plateau possesses more than just topographical splendour, however: a Bronze Age ring cairn located at SN9229057867 is well worth seeking out by those Citizens Cairn revelling in the off-the-beaten track.

I approached from the approx east – initially along a bridleway leaving the minor road near Ty Nant farm – heading between Wennallt and Lan Fawr, prior to veering westward and fording the wondrous Nant Cyfyng. Sounds simple enough, right? Except the monument wasn’t where I assumed it would be (it does not appear upon OS mapping), having instead been erected by its Bronze Age architects to command a different aspect and thus completely ignore said fabulous views of Cwm Dulas. Serves me right for making assumptions. Suffice to say, I got there in the end.

Hey, if your map reading truly is as bad as mine and you wish to take the direct route, look out for a ‘hump’ above to your right while fording the tumbling Nant Cyfyng. The cairn is located to the right of this, not upon the plateau beyond as I had assumed. Although to be fair, any lover of the Welsh landscape will want to go walkabout and take in the fabulous views, regardless.

Should you not have already had the pleasure of visiting Gorllwyn’s great summit cairns looming above to the north, a continuation from here would be one way of doing it. Just be sure you have enough energy in the tank, so to speak. And keep an eye on the cloud base since this is not somewhere to take chances in hill fog. Best return another day, if in doubt.

A pretty significant Bronze Age cairn located within the ramparts of Darren Camp Hillfort... so either can be viewed as a bonus site, depending upon your point of view. Yeah, I quite literally had no idea this was here prior to noticing it within the interior of the enclosure. In fact, the archaeologists reckon there may possibly be another here, something only excavation would confirm, I guess?

As per the hillfort, the cairn boasts fabulous panoramic views for relatively limited effort expended – although I was wearing waterproofs owing to the threat of thunderstorms, this making the going a little harder.

Interestingly, perhaps, Coflein notes that the cairn is the site of a relatively recent cremation burial (according to a local villager). Still relevant after millennia, then?

Bwlch Corog is a 1,266ft outlier of Pumlumon (despite the somewhat misleading name suggesting ‘mountain pass’) which, together with its more imposing neighbour, Pen Carreg Gop, overlooks the north-eastern aspect of Cwm Einion... Ceredigion’s celebrated ‘Artists Valley’. Hey, for once the moniker checks out, too, the locale having received formative visits from one JMW Turner and, much more recently, being home to a certain Mr Plant who (apparently) was inspired to write ‘Stairway to Heaven’ here with some other bloke amongst the ancient tilio-acerion native woodland. Just so you know.

The cwm is indeed aesthetically pleasing, the cascading Afon Einion engaging in all manner of gymnastics within the dense foliage. This was The Citizen Cairn’s first venture into this artistic realm, having viewed it from the heights of Foel Goch and Esgair Foel-ddu to the southwest previously, both crowned by prehistoric cairns. I park beside Badge Lodge and head along a forestry track to the isolated farm of Pemprys to the northeast, this name-checking the river flowing through the isolated cwm.

Heading east now, exchanging waves with the cheery, turban-wearing occupant, I cross a tributary before beginning what in the end proves a very tiring ascent to the summit. Yeah, this is Mid Wales, blanket bog and purple moor grass (Molinia caerulea) ensuring the going is very, very difficult indeed and making a mockery of the ‘limited height gain’. Not before time, I arrive at the small Bronze Age round cairn not quite at the summit.

Occasional thundery showers rake me with their aqueous content... but this is nonetheless a good place to be. To the west rises the aforementioned Pen Carreg Gop, perhaps surmounted by another such monument not marked on my map? I hadn’t intended to visit; however, somehow the undertaking now becomes an imperative...

This linear group of (four?) Bronze Age cairns gracing the slopes of Mynydd Bach, to the east of Llyn Eiddwen Nature Reserve, acts as a fine Hors d’oeuvre to the excellent Garn Wen located some distance to the north.

Despite only standing at a little over 1,000ft, there is a good upland vibe to be had here, this accentuated by the clear lack of visitors and sweeping views across Ceredigion.