I have spent some time examining this database, which was released into the public domain in June 2017, most particularly with respect with the area I am most familiar with: The Isle of Skye... continues...
AN ANCIENT rubbish tip – inhabited nearly 2,000 years ago – is disappearing into the sea, archeologists have warned.
The Iron Age midden on Skye's west coast has so far yielded bone fragments, stone tools, a button manufactured from horn and the top of a human skull... continues...
Archaeologists believe they have uncovered the first Iron Age burial on the Isle of Skye.
The skeleton from about the 1st millennium BC is thought to be that of a young female. It was found recently in an open stone-lined grave as the archaeologists worked to re-open the blocked entrance to the High Pasture Cave... continues...
I heard some folklore today, unprompted, and I hope the person who told it won't mind me retelling it here. He said that when his father was young (this might be about 60 or more years ago) he lived on Skye for a while, and he'd gone on a long walk over the Cuilleans, accompanying a local man. It took them five hours to get across the mountains and his father then assumed they'd walk the flat way back, along the road. But he was very surprised when his guide said 'well goodbye then' and made to set off the way they'd come. It transpired that the short route home went past a green mound (where, my narrator said, there were, as we would say, fairies, but it was a bronze age burial mound) - and the guide was under no circumstances about to walk past it now that the dusk was falling. He would rather take the five hours back over the mountains in the dark. Which, according to the tale, he did.
The pattern of distribution of monuments near the Red Cuchuillin mountains is very striking, when viewed on the map, for their locations draw a curve around the southern and eastern sides, the monuments roughly equally spaced and delineating the edge of the mountains perfectly. The Red Cuchuillins, then, seem to be of central significant in the positioning of these sites. They are the easternmost part of the Cuchuillin range, the creation of which is described in folklore thus:
"When all the world was new, there was a great heather-clad plain between Loch Bracadale on the west and the Red Hills on the east. It was a dark and lonely place and the Cailleach Bhur (= Hag of the Ridges, i.e. Winter), whose home was on Ben Wyvis, often lived there when she came west to boil up her linen in her washing pot, dangerous Corryvreckan. She was a very powerful and fearsome person who had made Scotland by dropping into the sea a creel of peat and rock which she brought with her from the north. When her clothes had boiled well, she would spread them to bleach on Storr, and while she was in Skye no good weather was to be got at all. Now spring hated her because she held the maiden he loved prisoner (until the girl should wash a brown fleece white) and he fought with her, but she was strong, stronger than anyone else within the four boundaries of the earth, and he could do nothing. He appealed to the Sun to help him and the Sun flung his spear at Cailleach Bhur as she walked on the moor; it was so fiery and hot it scorched the very earth, and where it struck, a blister, six miles long and six miles wide, grew and grew until it burst and flung forth the Cuchuillins as a glowing, molten mass. For many, many months they glowed and smoked, and the Cailleach Bhur fled away and hid beneath the roots of a holly and dared not return. Even now, her snow is useless against the fire hills.
- Otta F. Swire, Skye: The Island and its Legends, 1961, pp. 20-1.
(for more on the Cailleach Bhur in Skye see also Rudha nan Clach)
The Cuchuillins are also noted, in mythology, for the "school for heroes" run by Skiach, "goddess or mortal no one knows which, but undoubtedly a great warrior. Some say she took her name from a Gaelic name for Skye, others that Skye took its name from her" (see Swire pp. 21-3). The Irish hero Cuchuillin, for whom these mountains are named, heard of Skiach and her school, and with three strides travelled from Ulster to her school. After defeating every one of her students, Skiach finally allowed him to fight with her daughter, whom he also vanquished, after two days. Furious, Skiach descended from her heights to fight Cuchuillin herself. After two days of fighting "on the mountains and on the moors and in the sea" the combat was exactly equally matched, with neither able to gain the upper hand. At this stage Skiach's daughter offers both her mother and Cuchuillin a meal of deer stuffed with roast hazelnuts. Each thinking that "the hazels of knowledge" would teach them how to overcome their opponent, the two of them sit down to eat. From the hazels they learn that they are exactly matched, and that neither will ever win over the other. They therefore make peace, and swear that each will answer the other's call, "though the sky fall and crush us". Skiach named the mountains where they had fought in Cuchuillin's honour.
Swire (Ibid., p. 23) records one further curious piece of folklore with regard to the Cuchuillins:
"In the Cuchuillins, too, though exactly where must not be said, is a cave of gold. Unlike all other treasure caves, there are no barriers here between men and untold wealth. No magic word is required. No fearful monster guards the entrance. He who finds the cave may take as much gold as he needs and return as often as he desires more, but each time he enters the cave, and each time he uses the gold, he will become a little more evil and a little more evil, until he loses his soul. That is the price."
"Many people believe that it is from her wings* and her Gaelic name, Eilean Sgiathanach (Winged Isle), that the name Skye comes. Ptolemy of Alexandria (A.D. 200) refers to the island as Sketis, while the ancient Celtic name 'Skeitos' has become Sgiath in modern Gaelic. Adamnan knew it as Scia. This 'wing derivation certainly sounds very probable, more probable than the other version which claims that 'Skye' is Scandinavian, derived from a norse word Ski (cloud). This school of thought takes its stand on the fact that cloud or mist is what would first and most forcibly attract the notice of any stranger visiting the isle**, whereas to notice the 'wings' requires a map. Obviously this school has never tried (as the early Scandinavian settlers most certainly did) to sail around the despised wings. Of course, many place-names in Skye undoubtedly are Scandinavian, but they date from a later time than Ptolemy - four or five centuries later. A third suggestion, once seriously put forward by certain Celtic antiquaries, was that in Skye stood the temple, known to Greek fable, of Apollo among the Hyperboreans, and that the Gaelic name of the island refers to the wings of the Greek god! The name may, in fact, belong to some old forgotten pre-Celtic tongue."
- Otta F. Swire, Skye: The Island and its Legends, 1961, pp. 72-3.
* The "wings" are Skye's various promontories, for example Trotternish, Waternish and Duirnish.
** Skye is also known as Eilean a' Cheò, meaning "The Misty Isle".
"Strath appears to have been a great religious centre ever since prehistoric times. The remains of several stone circles are still to be seen there, in close juxtaposition to a number of ancient churches now in ruins. It seems generally agreed that before St. Columba brought Christianity to Skye the pagan religion of the island was that mysterious cult which has come to us only in the form of stone circles (believed to have been places of worship), monoliths (which in Skye seem to have been frequently connected with graves or burial mounds), and sacred wells and woods, the latter usually hazel groves. St. Columba never attempted to destroy the sacred places of paganism nor the firm belief in the virtues of certain harmless practices he found: instead he blessed them and gave them Christian symbolism, as in the story of St. Turog and the wells at Flodigarry. This is very clearly illustrated in Strath, where five old churches or chapels, now in ruins, stand each beside or near a stone circle, and the graveyards all contain some prehistoric stones as well as having tradition that they were first pagan burial-grounds and later Christian."
- Otta F. Swire, Skye: The Island and its Legends, 1961, pp. 217-8.
Of the four sites this one probably has the best views of the dun, chamber cairn, cave, naust / canal, loch, mountains and sea. On our visit the sea, Camas a Mhurain - Gulf of the Sea, was an astonishing colour of blue.
The cairn sits at nearly 13m wide and is 1.1m tall. Lots of stonework can be seen poking through the well manicured turf, local greenkeepers do an excellent job. Decent kerbs can be seen situated around the site. Probably a lot of stones have been used in the building of the dyke which seperates the two cairns.
Now we made our way back to the main track via a route suggested by a site that promotes highland treks / walkways. This led us around the west of Carn Mor, there is no path of any kind, it goes near the top of cliffs and in parts is an ankle breaker. Take the main track back, we were mightily relieved to emerge unscathed back to the track along with the dog. That site will never be used again.
Apart from track malfunction everything at Rubh An Dunain was as perfect as perfect could be.
From the dun we crossed the Viking-made canal via handily placed causeway and made our way round the sound side of Loch na h'Airde before heading north towards the cairns that are located in front of the small hill, Carn Mor.
As Mr G said this is an isolated place nowadays but it once appeared to be reasonably populated with the nearby dun, medieval townships and various Nordic visitors. Now the closest people are at Glen Brittle, the most regular visitors being sheep and cows along with people making the trek to the various sites.
The chambered cairn still sits at 20m wide and a good gentle tidy would reveal that a lot of it is still in place. Large slabs and some well built dry stanes remain in place. A gentle restoration would be wonderful to see but given the location, highly unlikely.
The view as ever remains glorious and we're lucky that we have made it on a beautiful clear day day which seemed unlikely given the previous nights dreich stuff.
Following almost in Les's footsteps, diversions via a cave and the dog trying to find alternative routes, we eventually made it to the superb galleried dun at Rubh an Dunain.
With A being interested in nausts, this was a superb opportunity to closely look at both, with the cairns afterwards.
The Sound of Soay, Loch Brittle, The Cuillins and Loch na H'Airde along with the island of Rum provide wonderful backdrops to this lonely, but obviously not that lonely in past times, place.
The dun is galleried within its large wall along with a door check, rivalling those near Tayvallich. Sadly erosion will play a role here and perhaps has done so in the past, any surrounding wall has gone.
Entrance to the site is via a small climb up from the Viking canal. Turn round to see the the mountains - stunning.
First stop on our way to the famous dun, cairns and naust was the cave at Creag A' Chapuill. Parking is available near the Glen Brittle camp site. We were lucky, a beautiful day for a wonderful walk.
Discoveries have placed occupation or use of the cave around the same time as the cairns were built, finishing around the the completion of the dun. To me it had an appearance of a shop as flat topped rock at the entrance resembled a shop counter. It certainly had good views as the nearby prehistoric monuments as well as Loch na h'Airde can be seen to the west.
The shop idea might be close as various pottery and later iron slag were found at the site. Also found was an oar shaped piece of wood, to me it looked like the shape of a wooden tool I'd seen used at a demonstration at Archeolink beside Oyne, sadly now closed.
An interesting place. I headed south west from the path at the medieval MacAskill township, heading across a surprisingly dry valley, only a small stream to jump. The cave be seen from here so reasonably easy to find with the ascent to the site being fairly easy. However, cut across back to the main path as south of the cave is boggy when heading to the dun and cairns.
In what has been described as an old church, the remains of a stone circle is instead the remains of a much disturbed cairn some 17m wide and 0.5m high. Parts of the cairn can be spotted as a small bank in which several kerbs still remain. The large stone may have stood or it might simply have always been there.
From the standing stone at Clach Na h'Annait, I circled round Kilbride House in an anti clockwise direction, climbing one wall, then jumping the Allt Na Leth-Pheighinne stream, which by this time because of heavy rain seemed to be getting deeper and wider. Walk into the field, head straight west and look for the small trees. The site is most definitely next to edge of a former loch which I can verify is now very boggy.
After a good splash around it was back over the burn to walk back up the road to the car.
A bit of a 'what' if but a nice wee stop despite the dreich conditions.
Parking is available just beyond the track to Ashbank, near the minor road that leaves the B8083. From there I walked towards Kilbride House and simply opened a gate to walk to the standing stone, slightly to the east.
Clach na h'annait means 'Stone Of The Mother Church' and it stands at nearly 2.4m. The stone has faired much better than the church, it has long since vanished.
An impressive stone with atmosphere added by low clouds and rain.
Mr G's meandering sheep were visiting the cairn at the same time we meandered up to the same site. Still impressive amongst some of Scotland's best and rugged scenery.
There is something about driech misty days that seem to age a site, almost like in very old forests - the whole atmosphere changes.
The remains of the chamber, like dodgy teeth in a kerb cairn, are still in place and the impressive width, regardless of who put it there, shows how clever the builders were - they took advantage of what was there.
Happily I took more in than my last visit - playing at the 1986 Broadford Music Festival at the airstrip. A nice walk to clear the head.
I've been to Skye many times since so it was nice to go back down the Elgol road.