Bryn Cader Faner

Only one word to describe the yomp up here today... SQUELCH. Despite the dry summer the main path north of Bryn Cader Faner continues to manage to be a full on bog for most of its length. A proper test for my new boots at least!

The spectacular cairn itself marked a chance for some much needed lunchtime respite on what had started as a much drier and altogether more enjoyable scramble across Moel Ysgyfarnogod, Foel Penolau and Moel y Gyrafolen from Llyn Cwm Bychan, before turning back south and the ensuing war on clear navigation and dry feet began in earnest.

The monument continues to be well worth the leg work though, what an absolute beauty! It’s siting in the landscape with the high Rhinogydd to its back and looking out over the Dwyryd Estuary to northern Eryri is properly spectacular. As is the silouhette of its very distinctive outline atop the ridgeline from the (much drier) southern approach.

Somewhat isolated as it is now, it’s all the more intriguing when you remember that these hills are likely more depopulated now than they’ve ever been, and in the Bronze Age in particular it would have been really fairly busy up here. A wonderful evocative spot to rest a moment and consider just how many stories the landscape holds.