
I’ve always approach Carn Gwilym from the north following the forestry road out of the trees and crossing the ford over the Afon Hyddgen just before it’s joined by the Nant Goch. When you enter the forest, you’re still surrounded by green valleys with the mountains of southern Snowdonia at your back. You emerge from the forest to this, something entirely different. It’s wild and sparse, the colours and the light are like nothing else around. All the times I’ve walked down this track heading towards Pumlumon, I’ve only ever seen one other person besides the people I’ve been with. That poor chap was on a bike and didn’t look happy...we’d come from the direction he was going and knew it would only get worse. This visit in October 2024.