Brea Hill

Visited 27 June 2023.

After meeting up with family in Padstow, G/F and I head across the River Camel on the ferry to Rock. I’d last done this 30+ years ago, when I visited St Enodoc Church, probably best known for the grave of John Betjeman in the churchyard.

Today we follow the coast path, along and over sand dunes above the river estuary. The views are fine, towards the mouth of the Camel and Stepper Point with its prominent chimney. That side of the river is where I spent most of my summer holidays in my teens, often walking along the coast path with a Walkman for company while my cousins went surfing.

At the bottom of the hill, the path narrows between banks of brambles and G/F decides to forego the climb to the top so I’m on my own. It’s short but steep, but it’s only a few minutes before I’m face to face with the westernmost of the four barrows on the top of the hill. The barrows are in a linear group, curving in a northwards arc in the middle.

The westernmost barrow has the best views of the coast, but it’s quite badly reduced in height, and its shape shows the effects of digging. The second barrow is the best-preserved of the group, a fine monument covered in turf which nevertheless reveals some stone protruding on the top. Although they look like earthen barrows they’re more likely to be stone cairns under the top-covering. The third barrow is the smallest of the group and easily missed amongst the others. At the far end of the group, the fourth barrow is the largest but the most badly damaged. There’s much more exposed stone visible in this one, as well as big crater in its top; according to the HER it was converted into a lookout post at some point, although that’s thankfully gone now.

It’s a fine little summit to climb on a summer’s day. The hill is prominent above the surroundings on all sides, so the views in all directions are extensive despite the modest height.

I head off down the steep east side of the hill, which gives a good aerial view of St Enodoc’s church, before completing the circuit and rejoining G/F for the easy walk back to Rock.

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