Latest Miscellany

Directions to Finnarts Hill Cairn: There is a minor crossroads on the A77 at Glenapp Church, c. 6 miles S from Ballantrae and 4 miles N of Cairnryan Take the unsigned road opposite Glenapp Church and turn immediately right onto a dead end at Glenapp Schoolhouse. Park up at NX 0743 7466 and follow the Ayrshire Coastal Path bearing right across the Water of App Bridge. Head SW and bear right up the ACP at NX 0671 7421. After c. 0.9 miles on this track there is a gateway at NX 05650 74224. Turn left over a stream, walk W up a fence line for c. 250 yards. Go through a gateway, head W for c. 100 yards to reach Finnarts Hill Enclosure, a rough circle c. 25 yards in diameter. Finnarts Hill Cairn is located c. 250 yards SW down the slope. It is a grassy cairn in heather, better defined than the enclosure. My route can be followed on Finnarts Hill Cairn. On your return by the reverse route if you head N for c. 400 yards from the gateway on the ACP you will find two low standing stones (listed as Finnarts Hill Standing Stones on TMA) W of the path.

Set upon the western shoulder of Gyrn Ddu, far below the cairn-less summit, this is by far the best preserved of the trio of cairns in the locale of Gyrn Ddu. Such is the ‘Schiehallion-esque’ out-and-out rockiness of the summit itself that surely no artificial monument was thought necessary, even if practical?

Of similar diameter (c43ft) to the pair of monuments to the east (c45ft), this cairn, however, happily escaped the attention of ignorant muppets with a tendency to bisect scheduled ancient monuments with dry stone walls. Aside from a little disturbance on top, the cairn appears more-or-less inviolate.

The outlook, particularly westward towards the dramatic trident profile of Yr Eifl, is magnificent, albeit naturally not as far-reaching as the sweeping vista from the summit. The obvious answer – if you are able – is to sample both by beginning your expedition with an ascent of the old quarry inclines to Pen-y-Bwlch from the west, then scrambling up the steep southern flank of the eastern top... prior to circling around to the summit to take it all in. Not an expedition to be underestimated owing to the terrain underfoot descending back to Pen-y-Bwlch, but nonetheless well worth the effort.

Located below and to the west of the summit crags of Gyrn Ddu, according to CADW’s scheduling this settlement consists of:

“...the remains of a hut group, high on open hillside. Hut 1 is noticeably larger than Hut 4, (internal diameters approx. 4 m and 3 m respectively). Hut 3 (int. diam. approx. 2.2 m) has been rebuilt as a sheep shelter but this has mostly collapsed again. Hut 2 is only approx. 2 m in internal diameter. The paddock to the SW has been cleared of stone. There are other possible huts and walls in the flat area surrounding the site.”

The site can be included within a circular exploration of Gyrn Ddu from the west... note that the mountain’s fine western cairn lies close by.

Every now and then The Citizen Cairn has to confess to being flabbergasted as to how such exquisitely tangible reminders of our Prehistoric forebears can remain so off the radar of this hi-tech world... hey, when military satellites can recognise a face from orbit, how can it be that this largely intact kerbed cairn overlooking the popular Cwm Bychan does not appear upon OS mapping... nor feature upon Coflein records? Indeed, the monument was apparently only scheduled by CADW in 2003...

Yeah, this is indeed the ‘real deal’, perfectly complementing the equally fabulous – yet far more well known – Bryn Cader Faner to northeast and Rhyd-yr-Eirin to approx southwest... not to mention the excellent Moel Goedog ‘circles. The location is, if anything, even better than its illustrious neighbours... magnificently ‘rugged’ with Rhinog Fawr itself looming to the approx southeast (the cairn’s fine cist is aligned upon the mountain’s summit cairns), the starkly brutal rock strata of the northern Rhinogydd to the east.... a terrain to take lightly at your peril.

Ironically, a sojourn at such an obscure monument as this is achieved without an excess of effort: a stroll up the access track to Cwm-mawr farm, followed by a short diversion (through an open field gate) from the footpath climbing the hillside beyond. I guess one just has to know it’s there, eh? Well, now you do.

Located in a wondrous position upon the southeast flank of Y Garn, the easternmost 2,000ft summit of the uncompromising Y Rhinogydd, this Bronze Age round cairn still contains the remains of a rectangular stone coffin – or cist – within its centre, together with a large kerb stone or two.

The setting is indeed spectacular, the hills rising across the valley of the Afon Mawddach crowned by the Iron Age hillforts of Foel Offrwm and Foel Faner, both well worth a visit in their own right. Gold has been found in these hills – no, really – yet, to my mind at least, this tangible reminder of past local society is worth far more than mere untarnishable metal?

Reached by a forestry track from the head of the minor dead-end road ascending Cwm Yr Wnin from Llanelltyd, the terrain hereabouts is pretty easy going by the standard of the Rhinogs. Nonetheless, the sense of ‘exposure’... of being perched above the everyday world, aloof from its petty foibles... is palpable, making this a great choice to hang out when the energy reserves are not at their highest, perhaps?

Coflein reckons:

“A round cairn (ca 7.5m in diameter) with an approximately rectangular slab sided central cist (0.2 x 0.4m). The whole is sited prominently on a hilltop with wide views. The cairn itself appears to have been robbed, probably for material used to build the large enclosure nearby. The cist would have been used for a crouched burial.” [John Latham, RCAHMW, 12 Oct 2010].

Directions to Howmoor Dun: Take the B7023 at the roundabout on the W edge of Maybole. After c. 0.9 miles take the right turn at Enoch Lodge House for Ayr (B7024). After c. 0.9 miles turn left onto an unsigned lane at a crossroads. After c. 150 yards there is a 3-way fork. Follow the middle lane for c. 0.5 miles to reach a lay-by for a path to Dunure. Walk along the track towards a quarry. Pass by a large cow shed. At the entrance to the quarry bear NE up a grassy slope into a field. Follow the edge of the field SW for c. 200 yards to reach Howmoor Dun. My route is viewable on Howmoor Dun (go to Links).

Occupying a very naturally defensive position overlooking Llanberis, to the immediate northwest of The Snowdon Massif at the very heart of Gwynedd, this small hill fort has been badly treated by successive landowners, copious dry stone walling, supplemented by barbed wire, detracting from what remains of the Iron Age defences.

Furthermore, the grandstand vista towards the aforementioned Yr Wydffa and cohorts notwithstanding, the outlook features a surfeit of what apologists might term ‘industrial heritage’, the slate quarries ravaging the western flank of Elidir Fawr across Llanberis Pass truly sufficient to make one weep.

Nevertheless, I reckon a visit here is worthwhile, particularly when riding out storm fronts upon an inclement Autumnal morning to catch rainbows arcing across the cwm. As they say, you have to be ‘in it to win it’, right? Note a well-preserved section of original walling to the north...

From Dr Toby Driver, RCAHMW, 9th October 2018:

There is a high likelihood that the lake was a place of sacred importance in the Iron Age given the find of a hoard of La Tene Late Iron Age metalwork (NPRN 419531) a kilometre to the south-east on the mountain path up to the lake. However, further archaeological investigation of the landscape environs of the lake are required to place it in a more robust archaeological context.

The horde was found below Llyn Cau in a cavity below a large boulder protruding from the mountainside;

Field visit by Toby Driver, RCAHMW, 11th December 2013. The find spot is marked by a prominent glacial boulder, naturally fallen into its present position and propped up on massive upright stones so as to resemble an artificial ‘burial chamber’. Beneath the boulder is a dark, nartually formed ‘chamber’ which may have attracted Iron Age people to use the site as a place of deposition. The find spot lies alongside the modern Minffordd path up to Llyn Cau and Cadair Idris, suggesting considerable antiquity to this particular route. Across the path from the propped boulder, and below the line of the track, is a minor spring formed of rock slabs on three sides of a cleared, damp area. This spring head, if ancient, may have further influenced the hoard site. The boulder marking the find spot is the most prominent and impressive of its kind flanking the path as it ascends from the valley floor to the open mountain above. It is perhaps the only boulder formation which may have suggested an artificial construct or chamber to prehistoric people. It is likely that the corrie lake at Llyn Cau was the focus for any traveller climbing this path in antiquity, perhaps for ritual purposes, and therefore the attribution of the hoard to ‘Tal-y-llyn’ is potentially misleading in the interpretation of its landscape context.

Directions: Take the A718 NE out of Stranraer towards Leswalt. After c. 3 miles take the 2nd exit at the roundabout. After 0.6 miles take the right turn onto the B798 Kircolm at the Leswalt Church crossroads. Follow the B798 for c. 2.8 miles, turn right onto the unsigned B738. Take this road for 1.1 miles then turn left onto a narrow road for Knocknassie. Take the 1st right after c. 0.3 miles onto an unsigned road. Bear left through Knocktim farm after 0.3 miles. Continue for c. 0.5 miles to park in a lay-by 50 yards beyond S Cairn Cottage. North Cairn is c. 0.33 miles N across fields. Follow my route on North Cairn (go to Links).

Directions to Galla Hill: Take the road for Blackparks Industrial Estate from the A75 on the W edge of Stranraer. After c. 300 yards take the unsigned left turn. After c. 1 mile park up at the junction with Culhorn House. Walk along the farm track for c. 350 yards to reach a gateway on the right. Gala Hill Mound is c. 100 yards E.

Directions: Take the A77 through Stranraer. Turn right for Portpatrick c. 1.5 miles after the S edge of Stranraer. Stay on the A77 for c. 4 miles to take the right turn for Stranraer following the Old Millitary Road. After c. 1 mile on this road park up in a gateway at NX 02602 56252. Follow my walking route on Craigenlee Fell Cairns (go to Links on Craigenlee Fell E).

Directions: Take the A77 through Stranraer. Turn right for Portpatrick c. 1.5 miles after the S edge of Stranraer. Stay on the A77 for c. 4 miles to take the right turn for Stranraer following the Old Millitary Road. After c. 1 mile on this road park up in a gateway at NX 02602 56252. Follow my walking route on Craigenlee Fell Cairns (go to Links).

Jubilee Field is a recent name for the field, which is named on the 1839 Tithe Map as ‘First Piece’. The origins of the name are recorded by McMurtrie in Transactions of the Bristol and Gloucestershire Archaeological Society vol. 30 in 1907 (p238):

‘Standing on the summit of a bold promontory, between the Charlton and Kilmersdon valleys, there is an ancient tumulus, where some British chief may perchance lie buried; but his bones must have been severely roasted by the Jubilee bonfire erected on its summit in 1887, unless, indeed, they had been appropriated by Mr Skinner or some other antiquary, at an earlier date, of whose researches there are some traces.‘

McMurtrie also includes a map of the field as it was in 1907, including the locations of earthworks at the bottom of the hill.

Grinsell 1971 (Somerset Archaeology & Natural History vol. 115) designates this as Norton Radstock 3 – Jubilee Field.

Grinsell’s dimensions are 30 feet diameter and height 10 feet from NE and 5 feet from SW, visited on 15/8/1964.

‘Opened by JS [John Skinner] 1821; primary cremation with charcoal in central oval stone cist just over 2ft. long and just under 2ft. wide. Quantities of charcoal on original turf-line of barrow, which had a peristalith. The barrow now has a man-hole cover connected with a water-works.‘

Directions: Take the A77 S out of Stranraer. Head straight on 1.5 miles from the edge of Stranraer when the A77 becomes the A716 Drummore. Follow the A716 for 5 miles to reach Sandhead. Continue on the A716 past Sandhead for c. 1 mile to reach a right turn for Kikmadrine. Follow this minor road for c. 1.6 miles to reach a crossroads. Go straight on past the dead-end sign for c. 150 yards to Low Ardwell Farm. Turn right at the farm. Keep on this narrow road to reach the junction with Kenmuir Farm track. There is room to park up here on the verge. Walk NW along the track for c. 600 yards to reach the SE corner of a field. Head N up the slope for 330 yards towards a gateway. The cairn is c. 25 yards NW of the gateway in the field boundary. My route is accessible on OS Maps Craigencroy Cairn (go to Links).

According to Gwynedd Archaeological Trust, there are the remains of a cairn and cist right on the summit of Diffwys:

On the highest point at 750m, approx 18m N/S and 12m E/W, with high crags dropping to the E.

Heavily robbed for the modern wall crossing the cairn but with undisturbed cairn material surviving up to 0.5m above the natural hill top.

Just W of the wall are two arcs of large, radially set stones and two large edge set stones, 1.5m and 1m long, set at 90 degrees, forming part of a cist which appears to have been robbed.

Kicking myself that I didn’t check Historic Wales before traipsing up here in September!

Approaching from the little Bronze Age cairn cemetery overlooking Tan-yr-Esgair to the south.... this large ‘White Cairn’ offers no hint of what lies within: a well-preserved stone coffin, or ‘cist’. What is far more obvious is that there are expansive views to be had here, the locale celebrated for producing a number of poets in its time – to judge by a nearby monument to the same. Hey, spend some time here and The Citizen Cairn wouldn’t be surprised if you managed to compose a few lines of verse yourself?

There is another larger, yet ‘grassed over’ cairn some way to the north which might also possess the scant remains of a cist? Plus another above Ffynnon Drewi (SN61906741) below to the approx south-east. Suffice to say, there’s a lot going on here.

Gurnos, a southern spur of Gorllwyn – second highest point of the Cwmdeuddwr Hills – stands sentinel overlooking Cwm Dulas. As such, it is a fine viewpoint, not least looking towards the Old Red Sandstone Escarpment of South Wales ranged upon the horizon.... although it has to be said the view down into the cwm itself is pretty special, too.
The high plateau possesses more than just topographical splendour, however: a Bronze Age ring cairn located at SN9229057867 is well worth seeking out by those Citizens Cairn revelling in the off-the-beaten track.

I approached from the approx east – initially along a bridleway leaving the minor road near Ty Nant farm – heading between Wennallt and Lan Fawr, prior to veering westward and fording the wondrous Nant Cyfyng. Sounds simple enough, right? Except the monument wasn’t where I assumed it would be (it does not appear upon OS mapping), having instead been erected by its Bronze Age architects to command a different aspect and thus completely ignore said fabulous views of Cwm Dulas. Serves me right for making assumptions. Suffice to say, I got there in the end.

Hey, if your map reading truly is as bad as mine and you wish to take the direct route, look out for a ‘hump’ above to your right while fording the tumbling Nant Cyfyng. The cairn is located to the right of this, not upon the plateau beyond as I had assumed. Although to be fair, any lover of the Welsh landscape will want to go walkabout and take in the fabulous views, regardless.

Should you not have already had the pleasure of visiting Gorllwyn’s great summit cairns looming above to the north, a continuation from here would be one way of doing it. Just be sure you have enough energy in the tank, so to speak. And keep an eye on the cloud base since this is not somewhere to take chances in hill fog. Best return another day, if in doubt.

A pretty significant Bronze Age cairn located within the ramparts of Darren Camp Hillfort... so either can be viewed as a bonus site, depending upon your point of view. Yeah, I quite literally had no idea this was here prior to noticing it within the interior of the enclosure. In fact, the archaeologists reckon there may possibly be another here, something only excavation would confirm, I guess?

As per the hillfort, the cairn boasts fabulous panoramic views for relatively limited effort expended – although I was wearing waterproofs owing to the threat of thunderstorms, this making the going a little harder.

Interestingly, perhaps, Coflein notes that the cairn is the site of a relatively recent cremation burial (according to a local villager). Still relevant after millennia, then?

Bwlch Corog is a 1,266ft outlier of Pumlumon (despite the somewhat misleading name suggesting ‘mountain pass’) which, together with its more imposing neighbour, Pen Carreg Gop, overlooks the north-eastern aspect of Cwm Einion... Ceredigion’s celebrated ‘Artists Valley’. Hey, for once the moniker checks out, too, the locale having received formative visits from one JMW Turner and, much more recently, being home to a certain Mr Plant who (apparently) was inspired to write ‘Stairway to Heaven’ here with some other bloke amongst the ancient tilio-acerion native woodland. Just so you know.

The cwm is indeed aesthetically pleasing, the cascading Afon Einion engaging in all manner of gymnastics within the dense foliage. This was The Citizen Cairn’s first venture into this artistic realm, having viewed it from the heights of Foel Goch and Esgair Foel-ddu to the southwest previously, both crowned by prehistoric cairns. I park beside Badge Lodge and head along a forestry track to the isolated farm of Pemprys to the northeast, this name-checking the river flowing through the isolated cwm.

Heading east now, exchanging waves with the cheery, turban-wearing occupant, I cross a tributary before beginning what in the end proves a very tiring ascent to the summit. Yeah, this is Mid Wales, blanket bog and purple moor grass (Molinia caerulea) ensuring the going is very, very difficult indeed and making a mockery of the ‘limited height gain’. Not before time, I arrive at the small Bronze Age round cairn not quite at the summit.

Occasional thundery showers rake me with their aqueous content... but this is nonetheless a good place to be. To the west rises the aforementioned Pen Carreg Gop, perhaps surmounted by another such monument not marked on my map? I hadn’t intended to visit; however, somehow the undertaking now becomes an imperative...

This linear group of (four?) Bronze Age cairns gracing the slopes of Mynydd Bach, to the east of Llyn Eiddwen Nature Reserve, acts as a fine Hors d’oeuvre to the excellent Garn Wen located some distance to the north.

Despite only standing at a little over 1,000ft, there is a good upland vibe to be had here, this accentuated by the clear lack of visitors and sweeping views across Ceredigion.

Mid Wales is full of hidden gems waiting to be discovered by the curious traveller prepared to do a touch of homework before venturing forth... Yeah, I know, you’re right... homework is not exactly The Citizen Cairn’s forte, either... however when intriguing reminders of who we once were are not even noted upon OS mapping, one has to bite the bullet, so to speak. Or miss out upon some real treasures.

The small, unassuming grouping of Bronze Age cairns crowning the southern flank of Craig y Lluest, the rocky eminence overlooking the head of Cwm Ystwyth – and in cahoots with Esgair Elan, forming the jaws of a forbidding entrance ‘portal’ to the valley – is very much a case in point. Simply put, one would have no idea it was here at all from a perusal of the map... certainly not from the roadside below.

OK, none of the cairns located up here is anywhere near the scale of the superb monument gracing Glan Fedwen to the immediate east; nor even those crowning Cistfaen overlooking the Afon Ystwyth’s birthplace. And yet... venture a little further to the west and the visitor is accorded – in my long experience – one of the finest views Mid Wales has to offer. Worth a look.

Located above the Afon Bran, a little way south of Cynghordy, this obscure defensive enclosure appeared – from a quick perusal of the map – to represent the remains of a promontory fort. However, upon arrival, it became apparent that there is more here than initially meets the eye....

Yeah, sure enough, the visitor is confronted by powerful banks covering the northern aspect, these curving around to the west. However, this is no highly defensive promontory, meaning additional earthworks – not immediately apparent – would have been required to the southwest.

Consequently, The Citizen Cairn went walkabout to discover what appeared to be the remains of said southern defences some way downhill. Now whether what I found are actually of prehistoric origin is perhaps open to interpretation.. just saying I believe such a conclusion is supported by the evidence on the ground. See what you think? Whatever, it is a wondrous, tranquil spot to hang out for a while, the northern earthworks more than enough for any interested punter.

Incidentally, the map indicates an additional, smaller enclosure some way to the north. I did not visit – since I was intent upon an audience with the Tri Chrugiau (upon Mynydd Epynt) during a break in the Army firing schedule – but worth a look, too?

Located within the obscure Mid Walian uplands between Beulah and Abergwesyn, this overgrown Bronze Age round cairn takes a bit of finding... however, the vibe to be enjoyed within its forestry clearing is pretty special. Worth the effort. I arrived during the calm following an intense night of torrential thunderstorms spent within the Irfon Pass.... sunshine illuminating the webs of grass-dwelling spiders adding a somewhat surreal visual aesthetic to the cairn’s locale.

Furthermore, the enigmatic (apparent) ring cairn of Pen Twr is spectacularly sited a little over a mile due east, sweeping views contrasting with the intense myopia of Banc Paderau. Combining a visit to both, based upon Ty’n-y-cwm farm, makes for a satisfying walk of two complementary halves. What’s not to like?