Latest Fieldnotes

Falls of Acharn, Perthshire
Aug 95 (and 94?)
We’ve been up here on a couple of occasions- it’ a great (signposted) walk up the Falls of Acharn which are pretty spectacular. The day we ventured up here in August 95 was rather overcast and grey. Stopped off at the folly which is marked as ‘caves’ on the OS map, but clearly man-made. There are a few places round here that have similar structures- at the Hermitage near Dunkeld, above Dunkeld itself (at NO019439) and down by Taymouth Castle. Once at the top of the walk a gate leads out onto the hills and passes Queens Wood on the right. Previously we have come up here in search of the cup and ring marked rock in this wood at 764429. We spent ages trying to find it, but to no avail. This time, all of the woods have been felled so we vowed to have a look for the rock on the way back down from the circle. The circle itself is quite ruined and has a dry stane dyke running through it, but these facts don’t detract from the outstanding position this site has overlooking Loch Tay. Many of the stones have fallen, but four of them remain upright. Whilst we were exploring the site a Landrover came up the track and a couple of men came over- turns out one was the landowner and the other a photographer from ‘Country Life’! We got speaking to the landowner who was a nice enough chap and he explained ‘Country Life’ were doing an article on him and his estate- so we had our pics taken for the magazine in the middle of the stones whilst studying a map! I never did check out the mag to see if those shots made it in! They bade us farewell and left us with the stones and view. On the way back down we hunted for about an hour or so for the cup and ring marked rock, but the tree felling meant the land was in a terrible state and once again this site eluded us. Oh well- maybe one day.

Simon and I and our two friends visited there at the beginning of summer. I too noticed how windy it was when we got down there. It was quite claustrophobic but the small scale gave a sense of an oasis of peace. Vibes were pretty strong and intensified the spliff we had. I grew up in the area and though often went to Trosley Park we had no idea it was there untill checking it out in The Modern Antiquarian. It’s added a little bit of ancient history to the mostly industrial and commercial scene presented by a lot of North West Kent. A fantastic little treasure.

Kilmichael Glassary Cup and Ring Marked Rock, Argyll
August 98
On our way back to the tent from Achnabreck, we stopped of here for another dose of cup n ring markings! It was a fine August evening- just perfect weather for taking pics of cup n ring marked rocks. This rock is next to some houses with lots of kiddies out playing so I got the twenty questions from them which was rather amusing. I also made some light and careful wax rubbings onto a piece of cloth which I managed to trail through a very stagnant pool of water on the rocks- yuck. Some of the cups were really quite deep and there was unusual ‘key-hole’ type patterns round a few of em. Another couple appeared when I was in contemplation of the patterns and we got talking about spirals and how they are a universal pattern throughout the world.

Directions
Travelling south from Kilmartin on the A816 to Lochgilphead, turn off left at Bridgend just past Dunadd. Go through Bridgend and the next place just a bit up the road is Kilmichael Glassary. The rock is just to the west of the church with the usual Historic Scotland green fencing!

Clach an Trushal Standing Stone, Lewis
22/7/94
We stopped off here on our way up to the Butt of Lewis on a rather blustery and overcast day- nothing like an enormous standing stone to cheer ya up! This monster is one of the tallest in Scotland and is approx 6 metres tall and covered in a fine array of lichen.

Grey Cairns of Camster, Caithness
Saturday 17/8/96
On a beautiful Saturday morning we stopped off here, well, made a detour really, on our drive from Orkney to Killin. The long cairn of these two is real huge- apparently about 60 metres long. It’s unusual to see cairns that have been denuded of their coverings like this, but they look great nonetheless. There’s wooden walkways from the car parking area across the soggy marsh- which is just as well cos all I’ve got on my feet are my Vans! There are two entrances in the long cairn, both of which are a bit of a stoop. Not as much of a stoop as the round cairn entrance though which was another mucky knees job.

Taversoe Tuick, Rousay
Wednesday 14/8/96
This is an intriguing tomb- three parts to it and all were separate at one point til a slab was moved from the floor of the top chamber and ladders placed in to the lower chamber (the first and probably only time I’ve seen ladders in a cairn!). Climbing down the ladders a passage leads you ending in a metal grill to look back into the outside world. Don’t miss the third part of this place- a small ‘mini-tomb’ built into the mound and accessed through a big wooden door. It’s not big (!) and has four large upright stones supporting the structure. The original roof on the main chamber has gone, so no need for torches etc.

Knowe of Yarso Chambered Cairn
Wednesday 14/8/96
A heavy metal door greets the visitor to this cairn- no crawls on hands and knees here. It’s got one of those horrible domed concrete roofs, but the upright stones of the cairn that subdivide the space make up for it. Apparently this place was used almost 5000 years ago with 29 human remains found. 15 skulls were found in a line facing the wall of the innermost compartment. Today someone has left rabbit skulls and flowers down one endÉ.

Hill o’ Many Stanes, Caithness
Saturday 17/8/96
Jeez- yer not joking- there’s loads of ‘em! This place (and the weather today) is just fab! We’ve made a detour here (and to the Grey Cairns) on our way down to Killin from Orkney where we had to get up at 6:30 am to catch the ferry! “Scotland Before History” (Stuart Piggot) says there’s over 200 stones here in a fan shaped pattern of rows from approx N to S. I brought my dowsing rods up here too and did a spot- there’s shit happening all over the place. The stones are real small too- the tallest can only be a couple of foot or so and some are flat with the earth. Great place.

Grain Souterrain, Kirkwall
Tuesday 13/8/96
In an industrial estate on the outskirts of Kirkwall stands a rectangular fenced-off piece of grassland with a couple of strange looking mounds in it- Grain Souterrain. A set of small stone steps takes you down into the earth (mind yer head on the lintel!) and there’s a passage leads off to the right. It’s only about 5 m or so, then opens up to reveal a larger oval chamber. There are four stone pillars holding up the roof (along with some help from a couple of twentieth century iron bars), some of which have been vandalised with modern-ish day carving. Don’t forget yer torch/lantern- this place is lucky enough still to have the original roof intact. I’m always amazed when I get photos back from souterrains, chambered cairns, caves etc as there’s bugger all to see through the viewfinder and it’s a bit hit or miss!

Broch of Midhowe, Rousay
Wednesday 14/8/96
Had an exploration of this broch after we had visited Midhowe Cairn. However, I wouldn’t be too inquisitive as some of this place looks like it has seen better days and might collapse at any minute (there’s lots of iron bars and bolts holding bits together). I got tutted at by a group of American tourist for (carefully) daring to stand on a low section of wall in order to get a better view inside- well, excuse me! Inside, the broch is divided into two by a very thin stone wall (supported by those iron bars!) and has a hearth, water tank, cupboard-type affairs- much like some of the Skara Brae fittings. A grand place to have lunch and watch the scary wave power in Eynhallow Sound.

Blackhammer Chambered Cairn, Rousay
Wednesday 14/8/96
Of all the sites we visited on the tour de Rousay today, I have to say that this one was the most disappointing. Of the original cairn there’s not much left and what is left is only about 4 foot high or so, then it’s concrete time! If you ignore the cairn remains you could be in some dreadful public lavatory. Not nice or sympathetic restoration.

Working in Swansea, I took the team out to Arthurs Stone to show them what real entertainment was. The parked camper hid the stone so we headed for the triangulation point before we saw it and then headed across the bog. OK so they sank a bit. It didn’t warrant all that moaning. Anyway this was a great site. It’s one big stone. The views are stunning and the sun was about an hour off setting between the two hills to west. Couldn’t convince team to stay and watch. The lure of pubs and expenses was too strong. I’ll have to come back another night

Majestic against the setting sun over the Gower hills, we got to this stone having missed it when we previously visited Arthurs Stone (Maen Cetty). Samson’s Jack is on farm land just over a hedge/gate which we chose not to cross as we were being ‘buzzed’ by a local farmer in his van, he was probably friendly but we didn’t get a chance to say hello.

This is my ‘local’ – I live in Winchcombe. Its a beautiful place on the very edge of one of the most atmospheric places in Southern England – Cleeve Common. Not counting the views to the Black Mountains and beyond and ignoring the bloody golfers (and hopefully they will go away..for good) , head North, through skylark and yellowhammer song, to valleys hidden in lunar (post-quarried) landscapes and Belas Knap – try sheltering from a thunderstorm (OK – difficult to predict!) in one of the chambers – a womb with aview indeed!

In the midst of Hampshire and West Sussex’s South Downs Iron Age fest, there are plenty of bronze age barrows but very few of the earlier elongated variety. Compton is South of Petersfield off the B2146 heading towards Emsworth/Chichester. From Compton follow the signs for the Mardens. When the road bends sharply to the right and climbs a hill the barrow is behind a hedge at the brow. It’s all very clinically kempt to the point where the family were convinced the farmer had built it recently. Situated at the foot of Telegraph hill and just to the west of many other walks in and around the downs which will take you past innumerable bronze age barrows and earthworks.

Broch of Gurness, Orkney Mainland
Tuesday 13/8/96
Tuesday- up early and headed first down to the Broch of Gurness. A great broch with lots of small dwelling houses around it. The entrance to the broch was impressive- solidly built structure- there’s no messing with this place! There was one part that totally fascinated me though, and that was the so-called well in the middle of the broch itself. Unfortunately there’s a Historic Scotland green railing all the way round it making it almost impossible to climb into- well- to stop over-inquisitive idiots like myself from falling in and causing much injury to themselves. Still- didn’t stop me lying on the floor of the broch and hanging over the edge and into the hole of the so-called well itself. See- the thing is- half way down the steps in the well is an alcove to sit in and I just got the feeling that this structure was used as more than a means of getting waterÉ..
After going round the broch with our guide book we walked along Aikerness beach for a bit and the first thing I saw on the beach was a rather nice cowrie shell. However further hunting proved fruitless and it appeared to be the only one!

Maes Howe, Orkney Mainland
Monday 12/8/96
We got up early this morning for a day of exploring megaliths. First stop however was the stores in Finstown called Binkies to stock up on their rather excellent butteries! Next stop- Maes Howe. After landing on Orkney and on our way to the van we’re staying in we passed Maes Howe and many other megalithic sites and I got very excited at the prospect of seeing them all at long last. Parked next to the exhibition house/gift shoppie type place, paid our money and waited to be escorted over the road and on to the tomb. It was like being back at a school trip! The tomb has a fantastic entrance chamber and once inside it’s most impressive- there’s some huge slabs of stone went into the building of that place. Okay- so you get herded about by the (very good) guide and not much time to sit and ponder, but this really pales into insignificance in such a powerful place. Imagine being in there watching the sun set at the Winter SolsticeÉ.

Skara Brae, Orkney Mainland
Monday 12/8/96
The next stop after the Ring of Brodgar was Skara Brae. Of all the places we explored today this was Kats fav. I thought it was v good too- nice wee hooses! I wondered why the Ring of Brodgar was so quiet today- that’s cos all the folk were here- busy busy busy! Still- didn’t spoil it at all. The interior of the houses are amazing- stone dressers, stone cupboards, stone boxes, stone beds- it doesn’t seem like they slummed it here! What was also cool was being able to walk through the houses and through the low corridors connecting the various living quarters. There’s also a small hut with an exhibition in it displaying many of the finds from the site which is cool- better than being stuck in some dusty old museum hundreds of miles away.

Ring of Brodgar,
Monday 12/8/96
This was the next stop after the Stones of Stenness and before Skara Brae. The setting of these stones is truly awe-inspiring. The site is between two lochs and has an amazing banked ditch all round the circle. Okay- so the stones weren’t as massive as Stenness, but the actual ring itself is huge. Not that many folk around which was cool- so went a bit trigger happy with the camera! Many of the stones have the same great sloping tops to ‘em- like the Stenness stones.

If you climb over the fence of the car park and walk into the field about half a mile away from the tomb there are three or four large rocky outcrops which are very comfortable to sit on and you can have an amazing panoramic view of Snodonia which form another piece of the complex landscape here. The bulls in the field were also quite scary at first when they circled me at a distance and blocked the way back to my tent but they turned out to be quite friendly after I decided to become a vegetarian. A white bull also stood by my tent in the morning and had a conversation with a horse in the morning when I got up. It is a sweet place to stay.

on our holidays in deepest dorset we came from beaminster, choosing one of the loveliest little roads we have ever seen: eastwards from beaminster via mapperton and (don’t miss the tiny road!)west milton to powerstock – an then alongside eggardun: what an experience to have one of the most beautiful parts of dorset on your left and the mighty hill on your right.
parked our car on the top of the and wandered lonely as a cloud towards eggardun. magificent, sublime is the view from here: you can guess the sea in the south an marshwood vale in the west. very quiet up there, except for the wind that takes the outer life away – even more quiet, if you disappear in one of the huge ditches.
were i forced to live my furher life as a cow, i would prefer to live between the cows grazing on eggardun hill.
just visit eggardun – surely one of the most impressive places in southern england where we ever have been.

I visited this amazing place on a bitter January day last year and was surprised but pleased to be the only visitor.
I had been inspired to visit by an enthusiatic Icelandic history teacher many years before, but, being prone to sea sickness, had never quite mustered up the courage to take the ferry from the mainland. Having finally made it, I can only say “you must visit this place!” It’s an awe inspiring glimpse at what our ancestors were capable of and it shattered many illusions I had held about my pre-Common Era predecessors being “primitive”.
When I compare the architecture of Skara Brae, which has withstood thousands of years of fearsome Orkney weather with the modern cement and plastic skyrises that purportedly represent the pinnacle of our city dwelling civilisation, I can only laugh. In two hundred years, these modern day megaliths will be crumbling and close to collapse (if they haven’t met the wrecking ball already). The builders and craftsmen of ancient Orkney really knew how to make their work last. You only need look at the perfectly hewn, carefully fitted stone masonry to see it. Not only that, but they knew how to landscape their homes to compliment the intense natural beauty which surrounded them. Form and function working together, six thousand years before the concept was invented!
The site is well thought out and constructed, allowing the visitor to get really close to the warren like village and to get a real feel of what it was like to live there.
Afterwards, I recommend a walk along the headland to Yesnaby cliffs to get a feel for the incredible natural architecture and geology of the area.
Living in China now, my friends are always boasting of their six thousand year old civilisation. After visiting Skara Brae, I can confidently make the same claim.

29.8.01 rnowen
Another signpost almost rendered invisible by overgrown verges and hedges, while because of trees, Tinkinswood itself is only visible across the field from one side of the lay-by.
On approaching the site even the close proximity of a huge electricity pylon can’t detract from the impressive structure. It seems to only partially emerge from the earth, additionally, the trees at the rear serve to confuse the distinction between the man-made and the natural. Exploring the woodland, it’s easy to become transported to another age, one without pylons.
There was much evidence of recent visits inside the chamber: beads, ears of corn, candle wax and the remains of joss sticks. Ashes and a circle of burned grass beyond the kist on top of the cairn indicated a small fire had been tended there in recent days.
Both Tinkinswood and St. Lythans chambered tomb are so situated as to seem remote from any built-up areas, but are in fact quite close to Wales’ most populous area, Cardiff, our glorious capital.
Extraordinary to visit such ancient structures almost within sight of Cardiffs’ latest monument, The Millenium Stadium.

29.8.01
On one of the few dry sunny days of this Summer, the dolmen was a joy to visit. Once it had been found. There’s a signpost at the side of the road but at this time of year the hedgerow and grass verge are so over-grown it’s almost impossible to spot.
Up close the stones appear extremely weathered and even have the odd nettle etc. growing out of the various nooks and crannies. Best of all, atop the capstone, there’s a very convenient patch of grass which makes for a comfortable seat should visitors wish to meditate there.
The grass surrounding Gwal-y-Filiast seemed to have been cut recently, maybe the farmer can be persuaded to direct his attentions to the hedge and the verge, as a public service.
Lovely place to visit, especially on such a day. The sun shone; insects buzzed; and a tractor hummed in the distance. Idyllic.

The Caiy Stane (AKA Kel, Cat or Camus Stane), Caiystane View, Edinburgh
Tuesday 4/9/01, 12:50pm
Ah- a megalithic lunchtime! It’s not often I get a chance to do much during my lunch-break, but this is one of those rare occasions and I took the opportunity to (re) visit this splendid monolith. It’s funny- every journey I make to sites such as this feels like some sort of pilgrimage. Even the journey up here through the Oxgangs housing schemes on an LRT No. 17 bus felt special. Here I am in a quiet South Edinburgh suburb in the shadow of the Pentlands next to an almost 10 ft. high red sandstone monolith. As well as being tall it’s also a wide beast- about 5 ft. or so with curious large grooves out of either side at the base. The NTS wall plaque says this stone is over 5000 years old and the immediate vicinity was populated with cairns, cists and urns suggesting that this hilltop was used for burial/ritual in the Bronze Age. Nothing remains apart from the Caiy Stane- everything else has disappeared under driveways and gardens. I also read somewhere that legend says this stone marked a battle between the Picts and the Romans. Jeez- the last time I visited this place I was still at school! Unfortunately the reverse side of this stone is heavily vandalised- loads of spraypaint, carvings out of the stone, chewing gum stuck in the cupmarks- how clever. The reverse side is also the most interesting as it has many small cupmarks including six in a straight line which I don’t think I’ve seen before. The founders of our great city saw fit to name not one, not two, but seven streets after this standing stone. Unfortunately its’ obviously not regarded with such high esteem these days. C’mon NTS- get someone round here to clean this fab stone up.

Directions
Catch a No.17 bus from Princes Street heading south (towards Hunters Tryst). Travel up Lothain Road, down Morningside Road and through Oxgangs. Get off the bus next to the Safeways at Hunters Tryst. Walk back down to the roundabout and turn right along Oxgangs Road. Continue and cross at the first traffic lights next to Caiystane Drive. Continue up Oxgangs Road and turn off at the next left which is Caiystane View- the Caiy Stane is on the right of this road- you can’t miss it!