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April 30, 2010

Men-An-Tol

Ah. I had heard about it. Sang Men an Tol (Levellers classic) for many years and seen pictures of it. Everyone had told me its a dissapointment so I wasn’t very hopeful. In Cornwall so I may as well...

And it was lovely. The sun was low, there was nobody else there, peaceful and calm and an easy 10 minute walk up the hill. Beautiful. You may as well go if youre down there anyway!

Oh, any guesses about those large stones used in the wall on the opposite side of the track on your way up? They just seemed too BIG and oddly positioned to be just wall stones. I like to speculate...

Grimspound & Hookney Tor

A settlement? Some of these “buildings” are not big enough to lie down in, let alone get your family in. Feels more like a graveyard to me. Any guesses why the entrance is so strangely aligned. Facing uphill seemed like the wrong way to be pointed. It did align with the entrance to whatever is on the hill to the north though.

April 29, 2010

Wern Frank Wood

The first site visited on a lengthy Black Mountains excursion (15.4.2010). A convoluted trip to get here (train to Newport, train to Hereford, bus from Hereford to Talgarth) bore witness to the Black Mountains at their most forbidding (i.e. completely invisible through very low, dense cloud cover). Luckily, as I got to Talgarth mid-morning the cloud started to lift, revealing the northern edge of the escarpment and saving me from a “should I/shouldn’t I” decision about the sense or otherwise of this trip.

Walking east from Talgarth along quiet lanes, the gradient steepens and height was gained quickly as the sun emerged properly. By the open common of Rhos Fach I was over the 300m mark, but the hills ahead still looked pretty intimidating. A byway runs ESE from Rhos Fach, joining a huge area of access land at the southern tip of Wern Frank Wood. From here, the barrow is a short climb, just off the path to the left. It is covered in gorse bushes and quite difficult to see properly, but there are some visible stones protruding through the turf (Coflein mentions a cist). Unusually for Bronze Age barrows in this area, it is situated at the foot of the escarpment (albeit its low ridge 420m above sea level is still pretty high up), where it has a view over the Ennig valley to the west. The view to the east is completely filled by the squared off bulk of Y Das, and Mynydd Troed and Twmpa are visible landmarks to the SSW and NE respectively.

From here a steep climb beckons up to the highest Black Mountains ridge, with Waun Fach and Pen y Gadair Fawr (and Maen Llwyd) the day’s main objectives. Another spectacular landscape to wander around in.

Hill Of Knockollochie

If there is a hard way to do something then I normally find it. Today was no exception, I could of driven to Crowmallie House and had a short 120 meter walk instead I parked near the A96, on a minor road, just short of the Oyne fork. (there is a signpost for the Maiden Stone and Chapel of Garioch, stop at the first passing place on the left. Plenty of room to pull in away from the road)

Follow a path, probably created by shooters, past a second clearing then climb towards the summit. This took longer than expected as the hill is covered in rocks and fairly steep. Happy hunting for Tiompan, I’ll return when I have more time. At one time there also had been a cairn and a stone circle but both had been removed.

The kerb cairn could have gone the same but didn’t as after excavation in 1961 it was rebuilt. Perfectly situated on the summit of Knockollochie Hill in the foothills of Bennachie. The cairn is almost 8 meters in width and 0.3 meters high. Also there is a sculpture of three metallic tall chaps keeping guard.

With that done it was back to the car, so a short walk had turned into a pleasant afternoons hike of about 2 miles.

Visited 29/04/2010.

April 28, 2010

Castell Henllys

This is a cracking place to visit. Visible from the main road (just). Well sign posted with a decent car park and visitor’s centre / shop. The walk to the village from the car park is lovely through the trees and is an easy 10 minute stroll. When I visited myself, Karen and Dafydd were the only ones there and had free roam of the village. Dafydd loved running in an out of the round houses which were furnished with beds, hides, hearths etc. There are old breeds of goats / sheep in the paddocks around the site and it is easy to imagine you are back in the Iron Age. It feels like the inhabitants have just ‘nipped out’ and are due back at any time! Excellent place to visit – well worth the long drive.

The Nine Maidens

Visited 17.4.10.
There is a layby you can park in shortly beyond the B3274 / A39 junction (layby is on A39). Once parked, walk back towards the junction (about 150 metres) and you can enter the field in which the stone row stands via a gate. The stone row is visible from the gate – about 100 metres away. I counted 7 upright stones, 1 half-fallen and at least 2 fallen. Be warned, the ground is very boggt near the field gate but does dry out the nearer you get to the stones. I touched them all for luck!
Once you get back to the layby, if you walk 300 metres in the opposite direction there is a metal gate. In this field (visible from gate) is ‘The Fiddler standing stone. If you walk up the farm track the stone is on your left but in the next field.
The stone is a small, squarish stump of a stone – not much to write home about. I assume it is connected with the the Nine Maidens as it is shown on the O/S map as The Fiddler.

Halliggye Fogou

Visited 16.4.10.
Easy to find. Take the turning signposted Trelowarren Estate (off B3293) and follow the lane over the bridge and up through the trees to the top of the hill. There is a small car park on the right with an E.H. information sign. Follow the path from the car park up the hill and the fogou is on your right – WOW!! This has to be the best of the fogous I visited in my week in Cornwall. This is FANTASTIC. Prepare to get wet, muddy and most of all astounded by this amazing place. Don’t forget to take a torch – the bigger the better. The light from my small torch seemed to be ‘absorbed’ by the darkness and until my eyes started to adjust I couldn’t see a thing!
Site is open Easter to 30th September.
Please, please try to visit this place – simply wonderful.

Carn Galva

Visited 14.4.10.
I parked in the car park outside the ruined Carn Galva Mine (N.T. site) and walked up to the top of Carn Galva along the obvious path. It was surprisingly quick to get to the top and only took me about 15 minutes. The views from the top are fantastic. You can see for miles along the rugged Cornish Coast and see Pendeen lighthouse in the distance. If you are physically able try to make the climb – you won’t be dissapointed.

Tregeseal

Visited 14.4.10.
Following the lanes through Tregeseal the circle is signposted near a farm. I parked at the sign and followed the path pretty much straight to the stone circle. You could drive further up the lane but the track becomes very bumpy and is possibly only suitable for 4X4s. The last section of the path, just as you approach the circle, is very muddy. It took me 15 minutes to walk from the sign to the circle. Despite the pressence of a couple of farm buildings in the distance this site feels very desolate and remote. I lioked this circle a lot. There is a certain ‘satifcation’ when you have to put in a bit of ‘leg work’ to get to a site. There is a handy horizontal stone on a bank next to the circle from which you can get a good ‘birds eye’ view. This stone circle is well worth the effort.

Carn Kenidjack

Visited 14.4.10.
One of the many strange natural rock formations found all over this part of Cornwall. Overlooking Tregeseal stone circle proved too much – I had to climb it! Walking directly from the stone circle, a wide path had been cut in the gorse/heather. However, shortly afterwards the path goes to the left. I noticed that on the O/S map this path then goes around the back of Carn Kenidjack and approaches from the rear. I was pushed for time so I decided to wade directly through the gorse. BIG mistake!!! There then follwed 15 minutes of pain as I was cut to pieces by the gorse which by now was waist high. By the time I reached Carn Kenidjack and returned to the stone circle my legs were cut to pieces. My advice would be to follow the ‘path’ around the back and approach from there. It may take a bit longer but it is a lot less painful. At least I can say I have stood on top. In hindsight I should have just viewed from the stone circle!!!

Carwynnen Quoit

Visited 14.4.10.
Situated on the left of the lane running from Praze-An-Beeble to Troon off the B3303. Very easy to access. Park in front of field gate. There is a large information board giving details of the Quoit and I noticed that someone had built a D.I.Y. model of the quoit on the grass behind the information board. The quoit is still a jumble of stones although the capstone is clearly evident. The stones are visible from the field gate although it is only an easy 2 minute stroll if you want to get up close and personal.

Hill Of Janetstown 2/3

Cairn 2.

This is found on the north western side of the summit. A small cairn which has been badly damaged some 4 meters in width, standing less than a 1/2 meter tall. The views over to Ben Rhinnes are worth the walk alone.

Cairn 3.

This is found further along the same plateau. Only a small smattering of stones remain on a small rise some 4 meters wide. Somehow I think this is almost the most important site, great views west looking towards the Cairngorms.

Both cairns have been damaged by rabbits, but they in turn have helped us learn how these sites have been constructed.

To be fair most of the hill is covered in small cairns, as well as bogs. This marked the end of the day, only 4 miles back to the car. This time I walked down the eastern side of the hill arriving at Craighall. From there I headed north back to the B9115, then east to Edinstone and the car. No crutches this time!!

Visited 26//04/2010.

April 27, 2010

Hill Of Janetstown

Continuing on from Ten Rood Wood I made my way to Turfhillock, at the bottom of the hill then turned east back along the B9115. Take the first minor road south, leads to Glass, stopping at the first major ‘kink’ in the road. Janetstown is the hill immediately east.

The last time I was here ended in disaster and the shame of being carried back down the hill, then to the hospital. This time the weather was perfect, less than two weeks before this area had been under 2 feet of snow with the unexpected March winter. In secluded areas the drifts still clung on. But I avoided them and like a Spring lamb, hard to imagine I know, jumped all obstacles in the way.

The cairn is on the eastern side of the summit and with all the cairns in this area the views are breathtaking. My foties don’t do the area justice so you’ll have to come look instead. Looking east the cairn stands at 8 meters in width and stands just over a 1/2 meter tall. The people in the know say two kerbs, I say three. We both agree that stones have been removed as evidenced by empty holes in the ground. The middle of the cairn has also been hollowed.

This is probably a three mile walk from Ten Rood. Somehow I missed two small cairns so its back to them.

Visited 26/04/2010

Ty Isaf

After reaching the summit of Mynydd Troed (10.4.2010) I had a choice to make about whether to go back to Bwlch via Mynydd Llangorse (the way I came) or to go further east and then follow the valley. Seeing this “chambered tomb” marked on the OS – which I hadn’t noticed earlier – decided it for me. The foot approach to the site was via minor roads and an adjoining byway. The field it stands in is sadly rather full of agricultural bits and pieces, and some loose dogs. I didn’t make it in to the field, so contented myself with some photos over the fence. The previous fieldnotes give the detail of the archaeology, so I won’t try to repeat that again. There is a visible long mound with some protruding megaliths, right on the lip of a slope in the ground. The situation is excellent, with views of Castell Dinas (obviously before the hillfort was constructed) and Mynydd Troed mountain, as well as eastwards to the lower slopes of the central Black Mountains ridge and Waun Fach in particular. Just 100m or so to the south is the Afon Rhiangoll river – the siting of the monument seems very likely to be linked to these natural landscape features. It would probably warrant a proper visit, with permission to get in and have a real look at the monument itself.

Ten Rood Wood

From the cairn on the top of North Whiteley I walked cross country to Ten Rood Wood, about three miles, completely forgetting to go to the Edintore cairn. (to immersed in whistling Glasvegas tunes!) Cross the minor road at Drumgrain farm heading towards to woods in the west. Under foot conditions were mostly fine and luckily I seemed to find gates. (just a couple of fences) After walking thru a thin strip of trees keep to the fence line. A lot of trees have had the chop. For the cairns protection circle of 9 stumps surrounds the site.

There must have been a large kerb here as at least 5 stones remain. one these has had a ‘dunt’ from a machine and is displaced. It is beside the biggest kerb, a stone almost 11/2 meters in length by a 1/2 meter tall. The cairn itself is some 12 meters in width. Far below in valley is Turfhillock farm, further down the road is the village of Drummuir which has no shop. So stock up before walking.

Edintore will have to wait just a wee while longer.

Visited 27/04/2010.

Ggantija

Easter 2010. The Ggantija Temple on Gozo showed its age with much of it being supported by scaffolding but it was still an impressive site. It is believed to be the oldest free standing man made structure in the world, constructed around 3600 BC.
Although not much to explore as most of the site was fenced off the temple oozed character and strength. The stone structure contains 2 temples, each seemed to honour the Goddess with its curves.

Mnajdra

Easter 2010. 500 meters from Hagar Qim towards the sea sits the Mdajdra Temple and like the Haga Qim it is under the protection of a white dome. Of all the temples in Malta I found this one the most impressive. Its size and magnificence is awesome and had more to explore. The site consists of 3 temples set around a semi-circular forecourt. I was lucky enough to be here with only a few other visitors and enjoyed the atmosphere of the place.
Truely awesome.
After a while it was easy to forget about the protective cover and enjoy the temple for what it was.

Hagar Qim

Easter 2010. I caught the no. 68 bus from Valletta to Hagar Qim. After paying 9 euros that also included the Mnajdra Temple nearby. I was not impressed by the large white dome that covered the temple but understand that it needs to be protected from the elements. Most of the site was unaccessible to visitors but it was still awesome once you got used to the covering dome.

Tarxien

Easter 2010. I caught the no. 11 bus from Valletta to Tarxien. It cost 6 euros to get in. A large trilithion leads to 3 seperate chambers with altars, oracle holes and carved spirals and animals in the stone.
At first sight I felt a liitle disappointed at the condition of the temple but when taking into account the site is 1,500 years older than Stonehenge its survival is impressive.
Many off the finds from here are on display at the National Museum of Archeology in Valletta including statues of Goddesses and evidence of animal sacrifices.

North Whiteley B

Walking in a north westerly direction from Whitley A, maybe 300 meters approx, another cairn sits on top of the hill. These cairns marked the start of a very long days walking. For me, the fresh air and scenery, inspiring.

A long, long time ago this must have been some place. Ben Rhinnes, west of Dufftown, Durn and Knock Hills, to the north can be seen. On a good day Bennachie.

The cairn has been built on top of a robbed platform which sits at some 24 meters in diameter. On top of this was placed the cairn at almost 14 meters wide being only a 1/2 meter in height. One kerb remains, thanks to rabbits (I assume), chokes can be seen underneath. Quarrying has damaged both the platform and cairn. A trig point has also been built on top.

Whatever has happened to this place has happened but the vibes remain. I feel in top form, the legs are well, the sun is out and for a change no music just the sound of various birds chirping to themselves. Probably saying who’s the idiot in the green hat! On to the next site.

Visited 27/04/2010.

North Whiteley A

There isn’t much left of the 10 meters wide cairn except the scenery which is stunning. A 2 meters wide rim survives which has been interrupted by a badly ruined dyke. The centre is hollow and has been obviously robbed but what for isn’t so clear. Apart from the remnants of the wall hardly any dykes are in the proximity. Sadly it looks like the stone crushers have had a field day here. Fortunately all isn’t lost, they can’t take away the views and the original ideas.

Travel south from Keith on the A96 turning east at the B9115 Drummuir road. I stopped just short of Edintore farm. Follow the tree line north, be careful at the boggy bit at the top. Look east and follow the remnants of the dyke towards the small wood. The cairn is a 100 meters before the trees. From the road a fairly steep climb of about a mile.

Visited 26/04/2010.

April 26, 2010

Mynydd Troed

Ha ha ha ha ha ha! This is a brilliant site! Visited 10.4.2010 in lovely spring sunshine, walking from Bwlch up over Mynydd Llangorse. After descending from the promontory fort, the barrow is visible in its situation at the head of the cwm. It boasts a wonderful setting, perhaps the best of almost any site I’ve ever visited in some ways, not because it is at a great height (albeit it is 350m above sea-level), but just because of the diversity of scenery, all of it lovely. I couldn’t stop grinning to myself once I got here, this is a truly special spot on such a lovely day.

The view north is blocked by Mynydd Troed itself, which was my next objective. From here the route to the summit of the mountain is steep and forbidding (but well worth the climb). To the north west the countryside faded away into a blue-green haze, across towards mid-Wales. To the immediate south the steeply sloping bulk of Mynydd Llangorse rises up. But the best views are to the south west and south east. To the south west the waters of Llyn Syfadden (Llangorse Lake) are beautiful in the sunshine, and behind rises the formidable central Beacons range, the highest peaks in Southern Britain. And south east there is a lovely view down the steep-sided Cwm Sorgwm, abruptly cut off by the bulk of Pen Allt-mawr. Many hundreds of years after Mynydd Troed tomb was built, these peaks would be topped by the burial cairns of bronze age people, striving to demonstrate their mastery of this wild and inhospitable landscape. But their neolithic forebears chose to place their tomb in a relatively lowly position, respecting the landscape rather than claiming respect from it. What a wonderful, wonderful place.

The tomb itself survives as a low, oval-shaped, grassy mound, with a few visible stones from a ruined central chamber. There may have been several chambers at one point, but there is little to see to indicate what the original structure included. However, this is a highly recommended site to visit. There is a parking area nearby, so access is simple, but I really enjoyed the walk over the Mynydd Llangorse summit ridge from Bwlch and if you can come on foot, it’s a really rewarding place to reach. From here I headed up to the summit of Mynydd Troed itself, which also boasts terrific views, across both the central Beacons but also eastwards to the main Black Mountains ridge. Wow.

[P.S. I would happily visit this as a birthday treat myself.]

Mynydd Llangorse promontory fort

Walking north across the summit of Mynydd Llangorse (10.4.2010) from Blaen-y-Cwm Uchaf, the ridge narrows and then starts to descend in a series of rocky steps down towards Mynydd Troed.

As Gladman says, there’s not much to see in the way of ramparts, but the views are great. The chambered tomb in the valley below is readily visible from here and obviously would have been readily visible to any iron age occupants who happened to be perching on a ledge here (I don’t think they would have been hanging around here that much though, it’s hardly spacious accomodation and the views probably wouldn’t be much consolation in the middle of a gale in November).

Oldbury Rock Shelters

Regarding the rock shelters, we learned a lot from local archaeologist Angela Muthana, and from Sir Edward Harrison’s article ‘Oldbury Hill, Ightham’ in Archaeologia Cantiana (45, 1933, pp. 142-161), most of which corrected what we had through we knew before. Mesolithic tools have been found around the area, and people may have sheltered under Oldbury Hill’s rocks in that period, but the rock shelters are most closely associated with the very end of the Middle Palaeolithic, specifically about 60,000-40,000 years ago, and thus with Neandertals, as there were no Homo Sapiens here at the time.

The discovery was made by Benjamin Harrison (1837-1921), the grocer in the nearby village of Ightham. He had found many ancient tools around Ightham, but realized that they were particularly associated with the hill and its outcrops of greenstone (so coloured because of it contains glauconite, that turns a slight green on exposure to the air). These greenstone rocks overlay a softer sandstone, that, when exposed, were liable to greater erosion than the harder rock above, leading to the greenstone overhanging a space below and forming shelters. In two spots, small caves had been dug into the sandstone as well, though at what period it is difficult to say.

In 1870, Harrison was electrified by seeing the London exhibition of Neandertal finds from Le Moustier, France. He recognized the similarity of the tools to those from Ightham, and reasoned that the rocks of Oldbury Hill may have been home to Neandertals just as the cave of Le Moustier had been. His great discovery, in 1890 with help from the British Association for the Advancement of Science, was a Neandertal flint-scatter at Mount Pleasant, on the slopes the north-eastern side of the hill (the precise site of which has not been rediscovered, despite several archaeological digs), directly below a rocky outcrop that is now much reduced by 19th century quarrying. Here, he found ‘49 well-finished implements or portions of them and 648 waste flakes have been found at this spot, leading’, as he wrote in his report (co-authored by Dr John Evans, father of Sir Arthur, Dr Joseph Prestwich, who lived at nearby Shoreham, and H.G. Seeley), ‘to the supposition either that this was the frontage of a rock shelter, or that the material had slipped down from above’.

It is on this basis that Harrison reasoned that the Neandertals, like those of Le Moustier, had made flint tools here and would most likely have sheltered under the rocks. That is the sum total of the evidence: no Neandertal remains have been found at the rock shelter. The rock shelter is on the edge of the hill’s plateau (and the edge of the hillfort: the fortifications at this point have been largely destroyed by the 19th century quarrying). There are several other points around the hillfort where there are exposed rocks: some of these may have been shelters as well. A considerable cave (5’ high and about 14 or 20 yards deep) used to exist on the south east side of the hill, presumably partly, at least, burrowed out by humans, but this was destroyed by quarrying. However, some of the rocks we see now may only have been exposed when the hillfort was made. What looks like a good shelter, on the right of the path going up to the ramparts from the top of Oldbury Lane, and which could easily be mistaken for an ancient rock shelter, may actually have been exposed only when the path and nearby steps were cut by the Victorians.

Oldbury Hill is within easy striking distance of London. It has impressive Iron Age fortifications, and is closely linked to Neandertals. Who needs Time Machines?

King Arthur’s Hall

We would not have found King Arthurs Hall without a GPS. From where me and Griff parked our motorbikes near a stone circle we had to climb over 2 barbed wire fences and cross over a bog to reach the earthworks. It was worth the effort.
A fire had burnt the surrounding field but the ancient site was left unharmed. Inside was peace and tranquility. We could only wonder at what the site was used for but felt it was a meeting place for the ancients. The weather was overcast but warm on this spring day.
After photographing and videoing the place we made our way back to our bikes, this time avoiding the barbed wire fences and bog.