Latest Fieldnotes

Heading north on the A345 beyond the village of Oare, a minor road veers leftwards just before the right hand turning to Clench Common. This passes Park Farm before swinging abruptly right to skirt the eastern flank of West Woods, the original line continuing as a rough byway, clearly much beloved by ‘armchair rambler’ owners of 4x4s. Woah, too tough for me, boys.....

Parking up a little along the road, I set off – on foot, since the poor old rover wouldn’t get 10 yards – keeping left at a multiple junction of tracks/paths some way along the byway. A short distance beyond, a tree covered mound materialises through the foliage to my right. Bloody ‘ell. Should have brought Harrison Ford along... he might have got some much needed plot tips for the next Indiana Jones movie, who knows?

Brambles grab at my ankles and snag the knees of my trousers as I force my way through some heavy duty vegetation and fallen branch to ascend the mound. Is this the long barrow? Reckon so... why it’s even got two flanking quarry ditches. Yeah, I’m convinced. Pretty substantial height, too. Now for the serious business of... simply hanging out upon this primeval monument as the early morning cloud cover gives way to washes of sunlight. Can there be many better places to be on a Sunday morning than upon a long barrow beneath sun-dappled foliage? With just bird song momentarily competing with an occasional mountain biker or 4x4 muppet? Guess it depends on your point of view. Sure, a winter visit would probably be more beneficial to the study of monument form and profile, but for sheer vibe? Guess there’s only one way to answer that........

When the Canmore people visited here they happened to be unlucky as the site was covered in dense woodland. However they must have known about my intentions to visit as most of the trees that covered the fort had been removed. Small lochs protect the fort to the east, north and south. To the west are two small ramparts, clearly visible, about a meter high on the western flank. The forts entrance is also to be found here.

Leave the B9119 just south of Tarland taking the minor road west. (If going into the village take care as the bridge narrows and is a bit of a blind spot.) Keep going until the 2nd tarred road north. Follow this to Hopewell Lodge, walk along the northern side of the wall heading west. A loch will be seen, the fort is behind.

Visited 31/07/2010.

Most of the earthhouse appears to be above ground rather than underneath. It appears the slabs normally placed on top where actually wood therefore only the boulders of the walls remain. The sites structure and shape can be by the depressions in the turf. Fortunately none of these are deep enough to trouble the ankles.

Just south of Logie Coldstone, on the A97, take the first minor road west for about a mile. The disused Milton Of Whitehouse farmhouse is the first farm on the north side, of the road, clear of trees. Thru the gate, cross the field over another fence and the souterrain is in a small clump of trees. Follow the track north.

Visited 30/07/2010.

Sites such as these – isolated behind barbed wire – are so frustrating. They really are. Nevertheless this small group of two well preserved bell barrows and a particularly well defined, large disc barrow [plus a couple of denuded bowl barrows swallowed up in the undergrowth] is well worth a short visit, particularly in tandem with a sojourn at the nearby Giant’s Grave long barrow upon Milton Hill.

From the Pewsey road, take the public byway to the right of Down Farm (opposite the byway for Milton Farm, that is), despite the twin ‘keep out’ signs flanking the track, these, it would appear clearly intended to intimidate. The barrows are visible beyond the field to your left, as are numerous other examples spread across the landscape. Turn left at the ‘T’ junction and the barrows are a little way down this track, again on the left, just past a turning.

As I approach I spy a metal detector ‘metal detecting’ (strangely enough) in the field to the west, this occupied by a large number of big ‘porkers’ and their huts. Nothing more interesting than a horde of authentic 0.303 rifle shells to report, however.....

Despite the wire and myriad signs lending a somewhat uncomfortable vibe – similar to the great cemetery upon Normanton Down – all is quiet here and the sky evocative as the sun begins the final phase of its apparently inexorable journey to the horizon. Following suite, I must begin my own unavoidable return to the car to sleep – as all creatures must... but I am happy I came.

Choosing a site of comparable form and vibe to follow Tilshead Old Ditch long barrow is a pretty tall order, it has to be said. A return to the wonderful Adam’s Grave was perhaps the obvious – if rather too obvious – choice. And indeed it was the Giant’s Grave upon Milton Hill, overlooking The Vale of Pewsey, which called the louder this time around. Hell, as much as I love Walker’s Hill, I do love to stand up for the underdog! Not that Giant’s Grave exactly has to punch above its weight to impress. No sir. Not one bit.....

In retrospect I would say the best, or certainly the most dramatic approach is via a public footpath from the Pewsey Hill road which follows the edge of the excellent escarpment towards Milton Hill Clump. However I end up walking down the same farm track to Milton Hill Farm that I traversed during my only previous visit here some years back, incidentally then in torrential rain (as described in Chance’s notes). Verge parking is possible near the entrance to this byway... and also recommended, since these tracks are used by farm vehicles – and, judging by the completely OTT signs, the owners of Down Farm are extremely walker-hostile. What is it with these Wiltshire farmers. Something in the water?

Some way along this track the visitor is faced with a choice of routes in order to reach the long barrow.... if in doubt, head a little to the left of the prominent trees of Milton Hill Clump to your left, which have [what I take to be] an obvious round barrow standing before them, unfortunately the field in crop. Approached from this direction, the long barrow is initially somewhat of a disappointment. Hey, I was sure it was more upstanding than this? It was. It is. View the monument from the north and this is as impressive a long barrow as you could credibly wish for... it really is.

Complete with quarry ditches, this great long barrow also possesses that indefinable quality only the truly great sites have. Aye, atmosphere, vibe, the freedom to think, look... just empty your mind and simply breathe, even, without the distractions interacting with other members of the species automatically bring. Not that I don’t enjoy interacting, you understand, but I do think these periodic ‘benchmarks’ are essential to keep in perspective what kind of creature you REALLY are. In short it is quiet here. Very quiet... with no additional visitors in some three (I think) hours.

The views are superb, courtesy of excellent Neolithic positionning a little way back from and above the escarpment edge. Perhaps not near enough to score a perfect Gladman ‘10’ in this respect but, hey, that’s just being picky! The Marlborough Downs crown the skyline from left to right (or right to left, if you prefer) towards the north, with Martinsell, Rybury and, I assume, the multitude of other monuments all visible if you’ve the ability to pick them all out. But it is the simple act of reclining upon something so damn old, something which clearly meant so much to a number of people way back then... but can still be appreciated today... that really makes my evening. I think I kinda understand why those people, probably not too dissimilar to you or I in basic outlook, I guess, chose this small – but not that small(!) – strip of hillside to pile this mound of chalk ‘n’ earth upon. Perhaps not the exact reason why they needed such a long mound, perhaps, but why it had to be HERE. Maybe, maybe not. Whatever, this just feels as if it is the ‘right’ spot, you know?

As Chance mentions, a myriad lynchets [field systems] are visible upon the surrounding hillsides. If only the landscape could speak. What tales! But hang on... I fancy it can and does. You just have to listen.

Travelling east along the A93 from Ballater stop at the car park for the ruined Tulloch church. (Pictish stone in the graveyard) The souterrain is in the middle of the next field, east. Although the field is in crop I walked down the tractor marks to site.

The site is fenced, or has a falling down fence. Next to the east fence the entrance can be seen but the area is inaccessible. Several slabs can be found. I did my best to break my legs as there are deep holes so take care and watch how you place your feet. For a change I survived intact. For details about what is inside the scary dark place see links.

Visited 30/07/2010.

After arriving very late in Glasgow last night, a wee stop was needed to clear the brain on the way back up the road, the scenic route.

At Balmoral leave the A93 and take the famous South Deeside road, heading east. The Scurriestone stands close to the road, south side, a stones throw from the River Dee. This has a beautiful location and Ballater is faraway. So a very good place.

Visted 30/07/2010.

Leave the A93 at Dinnet and head north on the A97. Turn west at the first tarred towards Muir Of Dinnet nature reserve. A notice board and leaflets can be found at the car park. There are several walks around the lochs. The crannog is on the north east part of the loch.

All the walks are fairly flat so if the weather is good a pleasant time taking in other sites can also be had, including the settlement near the car park.

Visited 30/07/2010.

If they want to know how the slate roof was put together they could do worse than look at the farm buildings. Not the usual form or fashion but tall trapezoid slates laid in even more elongated trapezoid columns with narrow and wide ends alternating along the roof.

Visited 15.7.10.
Easily seen from the lane which runs west from the Adam and Eve stones and past the longbarrow. A bit further down the lane past the longbarrow (on the left) you come to a house called Barrow Grange (on the right).
Although the land is obviously private the barrow is large and easily seen over the wooden fence from the entrance to Barrow Grange.
What a great thing to have in your garden!!!

I visited this site about two years ago whilst visiting nearby Tintern Abbey (CADW).
The site is easy enough to find – take the first turning on the left driving north through Woodcroft. The lane is quite narrow but there are places to park on the left with good views across the river Wye. The lane runs right next to the western edge of the hillfort and there is a fence surrounding the field. When I visited sheep were grazing in the centre of the Hillfort. I had the baby with me at the time so I settled for a view from the lane. To be honest there wasn’t much to see – the centre is a flat grass field and the other 3 sides of the Hillfort are covered with trees.

Visited 28/7/2010
I first visited the Rollrights at midsummer about five years ago; there had been a low-key Druid summer solstice ceremony taking place and anyone who wished to was invited to participate. It was a memorable occasion indeed so when offered the opportunity to revisit today, needless to say I did not hesitate. The friend I went with wanted to visit Wychwood, a remnant of an ancient forest in West Oxfordshire and was willing to make a detour (yes please, I said).
My summer sabbatical around the woody byways of the Cotswolds was about to reach its climax.

The Rollrights are on the Oxforshire/Warwickshire border and are true holey stones; nodular, oolitic, limestone they are quite unlike the sarsen, granite, and sandstone stone circles of my previous experience. There is a information notice by the entrance which states admission £1.00 but as nowhere to leave this money, we didn’t; the hut that was by the entrance when I visited five years ago no longer exists – I believe burnt down.

Before wandering down to the Whispering Knights dolmen we spent some time walking around the Kings Men circle, marvelling at the shapes and erosions in the stones. What a impressive setting for both circle and dolmen looking out over the Oxfordshire countryside. Back across the road to visit the solitary King Stone, we noticed there is a small cluster of half buried stones a couple of metres uphill from the King Stone – there had been a recent campfire lit inside the cluster with the usual associated rubbish which we collected up (a Homebase catalogue included would you believe).

After my visit I spent quite a bit of time thinking about the Rollrights; usually visiting a stone circle makes me think about ‘permanence’ in an ever changing world. These stones, permeated as they are with small cavities and holes made me think the opposite ... that all things eventually pass away. Including an ancient stone circle if it happens to be built from limestone.

Wonderful stones, wonderful skyscape! More info here
rollrightstones.co.uk/index.php/stones/

Jimit tells it like it is... this most certainly is ‘an extraordinarily large and fine barrow’, tucked away near the arguably much better known White Barrow. Except it’s not... tucked away, that is... being clearly visible, silhouetted upon a ridge between two tree-lines, when viewed near the prominent water tower. Guess you just need to know what you are looking at, I suppose. And no doubt Neolithic people approaching the site from this direction appreciated the built-in drama of the journey. Now you see it.... now you don’t. Ah, there it is. Wow! Theatrics, certainly, but there can not have been any inherent triviality here.

Nothing, however, prepares me for the sheer size – both the length and height – of this fabulous monument upon arrival at close quarters. Just how it managed to survive in such an intact state with tanks previously running amok over it (as cited by Dyer) I’ve no idea, but it goes without saying I’m more than happy to accept such anomolies when they occur. Suffice to say soldiers have certainly been here, unless yer average Neolithic farmer used 0.303 rifle cartridges....

What’s more, the barrow is flanked by pretty substantial quarry ditches along both flanks, albeit overflowing with the flowers and weeds of high summer, these somewhat disguising both form and depth. Come to think of it, aren’t wild flowers and weeds one and the same? Nevertheless I’ll refrain from a eulogy to the weed, however, in case some people get the wrong idea. Not my scene, that.

Old Ditch Longbarrow and the neighbouring White Barrow, clearly visible to approx SE, most certainly are my scene, though. Perimeter signs warn visitors not to dig in the environs (I’m assuming rabbits can’t read, then?) – or drive their tank if they happen to possess one. I’m happy to abide by both requests, but nonetheless ‘dig’ Old Ditch in my own way.

Overshadowed – of course – by the two superb examples of the genre nearby [the Tilshead Old Ditch and White Barrow], this is nevertheless well worth a look, lying as it does just a couple of hundred yards (or so) from the large car parking area across the road from the water tower.

Surrounded by white stakes to (hopefully) prevent accidental damage to the site by over enthusiastic trainee tank drivers – ‘sorry sarge, what does this lever do again?’... this isn’t the most impressive long barrow you’ll ever see, but is still pretty well defined compared to some ploughed-out examples I’ve seen over the years. Even during high summer, when the earthwork is alive with wild flowers and attendant insects. Ha! So much life upon a monument to the dead. The wonderful irony is not lost upon me.

Great wedges of cloud progress in stately procession through the blue sky overhead, like, well, the great motherships out of that dodgy Independence Day film (the one where America saves the world... again). Isn’t it strange how the gaze is drawn to the sky at monuments such as these? Almost as if that was the whole point. Or is it just me?

Very speculative , but the axis of the flattest face of the stone ,taken from ground level , gives a fairly accurate azimuth and subsequent declination for the major standstill .

Today I visited Epping Forest with a friend who has recently published a book of seasonal photographs taken in the forest. One of the photos featured is Ambresbury Banks – my friend thought it was probably a boundary enclosure where livestock were taken at times when attack or threat might be imminent.

The following notes are taken from the website “Unlocking Essex’s Past”
unlockingessex.essexcc.gov.uk/custom_pages/monument_detail.asp?kids=1&monument_id=301

“Iron age hill fort. Subrectangular enclosure of 11.7 acres. The defences are of single bank of dump construction originally separated from the ditch by a berm. The bank still stands 1.3m-2.2m high. There is also a 0.4-1.0m high intermittent counterscarp bank on the outer lip of the wide, silted ditch. The main bank now has 6 major breaks in its circumference, although only one appears to be original. This is approached from the north west by a trapezoidal-shaped causeway. The ends of the bank at this point were revetted with coursed puddingstone blocks. The width of the passageway so formed was sufficient to suggest double gateds, but no central post holes were found. At the south the head of a small valley is enclosed, from which a stream flows south east through a gap in the bank. Augering across the present stream bed suggested the bank was originally complete at this point, so assuming the stream existed at that time an overflow through the bank would have been necessary. The present stream bed is a breach, not a deliberately left gap. No trace of internal occupation has been found. Pottery from the ditch suggests a construction date of the second half of the 1st millenium BC, and reuse in the Belgic period. In medieval and later times several tracks passed through the earthwork and it was used for quarrying sand and gravel, and possibly as an enclosure for cattle on their way to the London market. Wild Service trees (sorbus torminalis) are to be found in the immediate vicinity of Ambresbury itself. Such trees are taken as an indication of relict woodland. Thus it would seem to indicate Loughton Camp was constructed in a still wooden landscape, whilst the country around Ambresbury was probably cleared.
Dated: 700BC to 42AD”

Note: the name Ambresbury is thought to come from Ambrosius Aurelianus aka King Arthur.

Following a very brief – and, I’m afraid, all too tentative – visit quite a few years ago, I’ve harboured an ambition (one of many, it has to be said) to come back to Yarnbury and see if it was as good as it appeared ‘back then’. Well, inspired by Chance’s notes as I was, not to mention a recent visit to The Chesters up near Edinburgh, today was the day....

Approaching along the A303 (ah, the A303!!) from Stonehenge, the environs of the great circle incidentally occupied by a myriad camper vans and, frankly, looking a shambles, I park in a layby just beyond the deceptively squat earthworks of the hillfort. Luckily the ‘chicken’ manages to cross the road in one piece and a couple of gates and grassy field later [no signs, no barbed-wire], I stand overawed by the immensity of Yarnbury’s earthworks.... duh, these are big! Bi-vallate, with what would appear to be a somewhat half hearted effort at a third rampart in places, the main ramparts and ditches are some of the most impressive Iron Age fortifications I’ve seen for a long while.

And wait, there’s more... for the original entrance to the east, a typically inverted affair of parallel banks, is protected by a boldly projecting, kidney-shaped earthwork, this playing much the same aggressive role as an castle gatehouse – you approach in the exact, vulnerable manner we want you to approach, thank you very much. The large, roughly circular interior of the settlement is defined by barbed wire, traces of an additional, smaller enclosure visible within. Unfortunately, however, Dyer does not cite this as being a causewayed-camp, or otherwise of a much earlier date than the other works. More’s the pity.

The highest point of the main, inner rampart is crowned by an OS trig point, a bit lower than the usual, perhaps, but nevertheless a fine viewpoint for the sweeping Wiltshire countryside. I walk the ramparts in turn, the resident flowers and fauna perhaps the greatest incentive for a summer visit, a startled hare making off amongst blooms of exquisitely vibrant hues, a wise precaution to avoid being trod upon by a clumsy Gladman. The ramparts are bisected at one point by barbed wire flanking another (modern?) entrance, but metal bar gates allow a full circuit. It is a wonderful walk, it really is, but all too soon the hours have flown by and I must leave.

At this moment I see four figures approaching from the far arc of the ramparts with a small dog ... tourists upon Yarnbury, surely not? Intrigued, I decide to hang around and have a chat, only to be greeted with ‘what are you looking for?’ by a very young looking chap with very upper class accent. Hmm, difficult question, perched as I am upon these massive Iron Age ramparts with a camera. Er, actually I think I found the hillfort, thanks...Anyway, I’m informed this is private land and, basically, that he sees nothing untoward with using one of Wessex’s finest Iron Age hillforts as a mere sheep pen. And there I was hoping that – taking a lead from my recent, invigorating meetings with numerous enlightened Scottish farmers – perhaps the landowner of Yarnbury was actually taking his (arguably) inherited moral responsibility for this exceptional piece of our heritage seriously? Well, you be the judge of that. He flatly dismisses my suggestion to post a contact ‘phone number by the entrance, or an address to request access through. Clearly too much trouble, I guess. However I must state that, to be fair, he was in no way aggressive and, I assume, fully within his legal rights. There are always two sides to every story, but I just somehow expected more this time, I guess.

So there you are. In my opinion Yarnbury is one of the great ‘lost’ hillforts of Wiltshire. But most certainly one with no public access. It deserves far better than that. It really does....

I found these engravings about four years ago close to the recorded Glennan site and assumed they were known about but it was only when reading the reports and these wern’t mentioned that it became apparent that they were a “new” find .

Visited 24.7.10.
This is an easy one to visit. Take the minor road south east off the B4235 out of Usk. In a short while you will see a bungalow on your left and the entrance to Great House farm on your right. I parked by the entrance and walked over the cattle grid and about 10 yards up the drive. You will then see a public footpath sign – turn right into the grass field. (Full of sheep when I visited but no fence to cross) The Hillfort is now on your left through the trees. There are two ditches/ramparts to be seen – the inner one being the larger of the two. Quite well preserved and about head hight when standing at the bottom of the ditch. The centre of the Hillfort is fenced off by a barbed wire fence and is used for sheep grazing – at least it was when I ws there.
All in all worth a visit when in the area.

Visited 24.7.10.
This was definitely not an easy visit!
Taking minor roads north out of Usk (O/S map required) I parked in a small passing place on the north side of the Hillfort. This was near the entrance to the private track which leads to the farm. I scrambled up the very steep bank – hands and knees job – and then made my way up the steep bank through the trees. (On my way back down I noticed that I had crossed over a collapsed wire fence without realising it) About half way up a crossed a track which ran aound the side of the hill (doesn’t show on the O/S map) and eventually arrived at the top. I then had to cross a barbed wire fence and at last I was at the single ditch/rampart. This was well preserved and larger than I expected. When stood in the ditch the top of the bank was above head height. The centre of the Hillfort was covered in low grass which I assume is kept short by sheep? – none present when I was there. It was then a dodgy walk back down the way I came with the help of a large branch I had found for support in the loose soil. When reaching the car I noticed a sign at the entrance to the private track which stated ‘Private – no public access. Strictly by appointment only’ – oops!

The remains of this cairn sit on the aptly named Stoneyhill. There are many piles of field clearance which made me wonder if something else stood here. All that is left is a 6 meter wide cairn that stands at 0.4 meters high. One possible kerb remains earthfast on the western side. Bennachie dominates the skyline to the west.

Leave the A947 at Whiterashes and head towards Inverurie on the B993 stopping at Fawells farm. Stoneyhill is the small climb opposite.

Visited 24/07/2010

This stone circle (judge’s ring) is 18 metres in diameter and consists of 22 stones, which is between 0,6 to 1,2 metres high. In the centre of the circle there is a low stone. During a examination and restoring project in 1940, a burnt human was found in the centre, together with a cup made of glass, a sharpening stone and a comb made of bone.

Infoboard on site in Swedish, English and German.

The stones itself can’t be seen in GE, but you can see a circular clearcut in the forest north or the road.

How to get there
From the museum of rock carvings at Vitlycke, drive for 8,6 kilometres southward, on the tarmac road west of the museum.
Turn left onto the gravel road where you see the ‘sightings sign’ and drive for 1,9 kilometres, and the site is on your left

The name Greby gave the nearby village Grebbestad its name. The first part, Gre, comes from the norse word grjot, which means ‘stony ground’.
Around 200 elliptic and circular mounds are found here, many of them with with an erected stone at the top, others with a chain of smaller stones around the edges. 10 graves have been examined, and it has been concluded that the field was built around 200-600 CE

There is infoboards on site in Swedish, English and German.

How to get there:
Take off highway E6 and turn into the town of Tanumshede. When there, turn right onto road 163, towards Grebbestad. After about 5,4 kilometres (about 1 kilometre before Grebbestad) you’ll find a parking spot to your left. Park there and walk on the gravel road for 250 metres.

The site can be seen in GE

This is an easily found standing stone and what a beaut it is as is its near neighbour at Woodend. This is much more accessible. Leave the B993 after Kemnay and turn south towards Craigearn pulling in at the second drive on the east side. Walk a short distance to a gate, the Lang Stane stands impressively in the middle of the field. If there weren’t trees magnificent views of Bennachie would be seen.

No witches to be seen today. If there was a stone circle here, if all the stones had similar stature, what a place this must have been.

Visited 24/07/2010.

After speaking to Patrick Will, the old man of Methlick, I had to find this stone as it formed part of the Castle Fraser RSC, Lauchintilly Standing Stone, the Knock and South Leylodge RSC line of ancient monuments. He was right.

This stone sits in a middle of a field looking down onto Castle Fraser. It stands at almost 11/2 meters and is almost 1 meter wide at it’s base. Coming from the RSC side go past the stone row and keep going until the wood finishes on the east side of the road. Turn east towards Braeneil Farm and keep going until the road ends. From there its over a gate and fence straight north. A lovely setting and loads of history nearby.

Visited 24/07/2010.