Latest Fieldnotes

Visited 23.5.11
This is a large Barrow with Lia Fail standing stone on its summit.
Lia Fail is set in concrete and is therefore able to happily laugh at the wind.
I’m not; so I couldn’t.
I didn’t manage to stand on top for long before being blown off.

Visited 23.5.11
Although this is listed as an ‘enclosure’ it certainly looks like a cursus.
Walking north from the Mound of the Hostages towards the road, I noticed that there is a ditch on the inside of the bank on the left hand side but not on the right. Whether this is deliberate or that the ditch on the left has silted up I don’t know?
The banks are about 1.5 metres high and walking along the enclosure/cursus did give a certain ‘feeling’ – a bit like when walking the avenue at Avebury.

And suddenly it’s right there, the capstone the first thing to appear over a little hump in the road. There’s a small motorhome parked up alongside, and a chap sitting quietly by the chamber. We say hello and then I get on with being utterly impressed with this place. First, the monument itself. What an astonishing size the capstone (now broken) is, what a feat of engineering it was to have built this. It’s supported, table-top like, on a number of upright slabs, which look barely big enough to cope – but obviously do. A couple of upright stones at the south end may mark a false portal, while an entrance passage (roofless) leads away from the north of the chamber before turning to the west. As I do, to be even more awestruck by the views. I don’t think the photos and descriptions I have read really prepared me for the views from this monument. The Black Mountains north-eastern escarpment fills the horizon, from Ysgyryd Fawr (The Skirrid or Holy Mountain) to the south, right up to Hay Bluff (Pen-y-Beacon) at the northern tip. Wow. No-one is telling me that this monument wasn’t sighted with this in mind – particularly when you realise that the western curve of the passage faces Hay Bluff and the orientation of the chamber faces Ysgyryd Fawr.

Obligatory photos taken, I chat to the guy with the van. He tells me he’s staying here tonight, with the prospect of sunrise and sunset to look forward to across this wonderful landscape. Lucky man. He lays a bet that I will be the only person he sees here today. As I haven’t seen anyone but him for about three hours (cars excepted), I’m prepared to believe this. Then, while we chat, another couple come in a car, take some pictures and leave. Then another couple, who tell us that they’ve just been to see the lovely (and very pagan inspired) Saxon church and Kilpeck. They also come and go. It rains and the chamber makes for a neat shelter for a few wet minutes. The sun shines again. Van man tells me he intends to spend to summer in his van, crossing Wales to look for interesting places. Maybe we’ll meet again!

I head northwest to Llanrosser, where my route runs between the higher ridges of Cefn Hill to the west and Vagar Hill to the east. Keeping on for another mile or so, I reach a sign-board on the left, telling me about Cefn Common. Opposite, a bridleway gate leads onto a permissive track running eastwards.

This little track, running along the south side of Mynydd Brith wood, is the way to approach the Mynydd Brith stone. Sadly, as it comes into view, my first thought is “is that it?” I had expected something taller, especially after the lovely Wern Derys stone whetting my appetite earlier. But this is a much smaller affair, only about four feet tall. SMR has it down as hesitantly “prehistoric?” and I can see why there is doubt. It has clearly been worked. The angles are very sharp, despite weathering. It has a “W” carved on its top (could be an “M” I suppose) and looks like a boundary stone. Oddly, although it is actually on a parish boundary, the reports I have read suggest that this is coincidental and the stone was not known as a boundary marker. Which seems very unlikely. “Disputed antiquity” I think.

But fear not, because it’s still worth coming up to see it, for another reason entirely. Walking further ESE along the track, it emerges onto Vagar Hill near a telecoms mast. And it becomes apparent that, unadvertised at all, Vagar Hill is quietly one of the best viewpoints in Herefordshire. At 433m, it hardly towers above the surrounding countryside – even nearby Cefn Hill is higher. But it’s situated Just Right. To the south, especially on a day of cloud, sunshine, rain and shadow, the Black Mountains escarpment is spectacular. To the east, the jagged ridge of the Malverns and, inevitably, May Hill (which you seem to be able to see from everywhere). Northwest, the mountains of the Radnor Forest – Great Rhos, Black Mixen and Bach Hill, for once not shrouded in mist and cloud. Further NNW, something more prominent, which must be one of the southern North-Walian ranges. North-east, looking down a straight-as-an-arrow enclosure road, are the South Shropshire hills of Brown Clee and Titterstone Clee. Magnificent. So, the stone may not be the most exciting, but it’s still a very worthwhile trek to come up here.

The lane winds onwards, dropping down into a shady valley before re-emerging into the sunlight. And there, in a field on the left hand side, is Wern Derys stone. Not much changes in this part of the county. I don’t know if many other TMA-ers have been to visit this stone since Baza’s fieldnotes almost 8 years ago, but what I do know is that there’s still a sign saying “Stock – please close the gate”, and still no sign saying “bugger off”. Thus encouraged, a closer encounter is had. This is a shapely, tapering stone. Herefordshire’s tallest, just beating the Queen Stone to it (in the face of not much other competition, it has to be said).

The view of the stone from the lane presents its widest face, clad in yellow lichen. The north and south sides are narrower and face down the valley towards Ysgyrd Fawr (sadly hidden by trees from the stone itself). The whole of the south-western vista is taken up by the Black Mountains’ escarpment. It hardly seems likely that the placing was indifferent to such a brooding presence.

Visited 23.5.11
‘Blow wind blow’……………….and it certainly did!
The wind by now was near gale force. I could hardly stand up.
In fact it was so windy I had to hang on to Lia Fail to stop myself being blown over!
Around the base of Lia Fail are a set of slate tiles fanning out from the stone.
The stone itself is about 1.5 metres high and fairly slender.
Oddly enough next to the stone is a worn headstone dated 1798 (re-erected 1932). This provided a little welcome shelter out of the wind as I tried to admire the scenery.

Visited 23.5.11
Well, I didn’t know what to make of this little lot?
Reminded me of some mini First World War grass covered trenches – All over the place.
Left me totally confused. Worth a look when visiting the Hill of Tara but wouldn’t be worth making a special visit for.

Visited 23.5.11
After looking at the Churchyard Stones this was my next stop.
I literally staggered to the Passage Grave, battling against the near gale force wind.
The views are tremendous (at least they would be if my eyes weren’t watering so much in the wind). You can see for miles and miles in all directions.
I quickly cooped down at the entrance to the grave (shelter!) and let my eyes adjust to the darkness. I was soon able to peer through the locked metal grill and easily spot the decorated stone on the left hand side of the passage.
What a great site!
Pity about the rubbish strewn inside the passage. What is wrong with (some) people?

After leaving Twyn y Gaer (4.6.2011), I walked north along the ridge towards Bal-Mawr and my main objective, Chwarel y Fan.

After passing a small boundary stone, the path climbs steadily upwards until I reached open moorland, where the grassy slopes gave way to heather. Garn Wen is an obvious waymark, as a modern beehive cairn has been erected on its top, visible from some distance away. As I get closer, a walkers’ shelter also appears. What isn’t apparent until I’m closer still is how large this cairn is. Its diameter dwarves both of the modern additions, no doubt created from its mound, leaving the cairn disproportionately flat for its overall size. Further spread is covered by the surrounding vegetation, making for a diameter in excess of 25m.

The views from here are great, particularly to Ysgyryd Fawr and The Sugarloaf.

From here I head further north, climbing Bal-Mawr before the fine ridge walk to Chwarel y Fan, probably the least accessible Black Mountains summit if using public transport. Worth the effort though for the views to Pen-y-Gadair Fawr, Waun Fach and the Grwyne Fawr.

I understand that these two bullauns were only rediscovered in the last 10 years. They aren’t in the Archaeological (hard copy) or the updated version on www.archaeology.ie.

This stones are close to the fields were I grew up and used to play in so its amazing that they weren’t known of in the locality. The day I checked them out they were full of cow poo, so this enough of this in them and they would be hard to identify.

A section of the newly upgraded Lough Derg Way passes by the stones so taking this track is probably the easiest way to view them and also a great walk with proper walking stiles and no cows to worry about.

The stones are both earthfast and approx 200 yards from the path.

I first spotted this bullaun stone when a niece (on my wives side) got christained here and had meant to get back to photograph it. It seems from the record below that it was moved from somewhere else

From www.archaeology.ie;

Description: Located in the grounds of the R.C. church in the village of Kilbarron (Newchapel), the bullaun stone is situated to the E of the church. A small granite boulder (dims. 0.7m x 0.7m x 0.3m) with a deep circular depression (diam. 0.3m; D 0.2m) that was originally found in a field beside an old building that was locally believed to have been a possible church. This building is depicted as a large T-shaped building on the first edition OS six-inch map. There is a cattle crush located now where this building was originally situated, with no evidence remaining of this large T-shaped building. This building was located in the adjoining townland of Carrigagown North. A second bullaun stone (TN009-066) was discovered at the site and was moved to the grounds of a private house in Skehanagh.

This site is mentioned in Geraldine Stouts book on Ely O’Carroll County.

I followed the nearby stream down to it, this is really is horse country and as I was halfways into the field it was in, two horses appeared and chased my dog Ned into the river, he barely escaped there hooves. Im sure they were just playing but this does high-light the dangers of the countryside and bringing a dog with you.

This is a monument that I hoped may show some kind of alignment with the “Devils Bit”, unfortunately it really doesnt.

Ive just discovered that www.archaeology.ie now provides descriptions so as per the website please find the following;

Description: Situated on flat pasture in an upland area with nearby river to SW. A large triangular-shaped conglomerate boulder (L 1.4m; T 0.9m) resting on three small support-stones with two front pad-stones to the SE and a single backstone to the NW. A large boulder immediately W of the burial probably represents natural rock outcrop or field clearance and does not appear to be associated with the site. According to local tradition the site was known as a ‘giant’s grave’ (Stout 1984, 17).

Visited 4.6.11
The drive which takes you to Grickstone Farm is directly opposite to the turning off the A46 to Little Sodbury. We drove down the drive but parking is difficult so it would be best to park on the main road and walk down.
The public footpath sign post is there but the ‘footpath’ is completely grown over. Not letting this bother me I happily stomped through the waist high grass along where the footpath should be. All was going well until I painfully realised that hidden amongst the grass were nettles. And one thing is for sure – nettles and shorts don’t mix!
Trying to carefully pick my way across the field behind the back of Grickstone Farm I headed for the small copse of trees where the stone can be found. This took about 5 minutes.
As you approach the trees the stone is easily visible.
This is more of a large boulder of a stone more than an upright standing stone. It is approximately 1 metre high and 1 metre wide – covered in yellow, white and green lichen. It also had a couple of patches of grass growing on top of it.
I sat on top of the stone and spent several minutes rubbing my legs with dock leaves I had found near by. I have always found it strange that you often find dock leaves near nettles. Must be nature’s way of giving and taking?!!
I then returned back to the car (only to be stung several tines again) with patches of green stains on my legs!
I don’t know what Dafydd made of me sat in the car rubbing my legs with leaves?

Visited 23.5.11
The first site on my list for the Hill of Tara.
A sunny day but incredibly windy.
I parked in the car park and walked up the path through the well kemp church yard.
The stones are easy to spot just to the right of the church.
One stone is about 1.8 metres tall, the other about 0.5 metres.
The wind was so strong it was impossible to write my notes and in the end I sought shelter behind the small remaining ruined wall of the medieval church.
If it is this windy here, I dread to think how windy it will be when I go the the next site on top of Tara Hill.

Visited 23.5.11
There is a lovely marble bench next to the well with ‘Jack’s Seat’ engraved in it.
Some sort of memorial? If so, it’s a good one.
The water did indeed look very clear and a cup was provided to sample if you so wished.
I decided not to.
In the bottom of the well someone had left several sea shells – an offering?

Visited 23.5.11
My last visit on a very successful days ‘old stoning’ (despite the wind)
Whilst visiting the Hill of Tara I saw a sign post for this site and obviously just had to investigate!
There was room to pull the car in and then it was a quick ‘up and over’ the rusty padlocked metal field gate. The field was full of sheep.
The large bank (covered in trees/bushes etc) is to the right of the gate and is fairly high – about 3 metres. I climbed to the top and scanned across the field to see if I could follow the contour. The bank on the far side did not look anywhere near as impressive and appeared to be largely ploughed out. This is a large site.
The incessant wind showed no sign of letting up and by now it had started to rain. Sophie had had enough for the day and was crying in the car so I didn’t hang around and soon headed back to the field gate.
If I am ever in the area again I will have to have a proper look around.

I’m not one for planning holidays months in advance... perhaps it’s a somewhat childish ‘defence’ against disappointment if/when things don’t go to plan. Ha! Because there is no plan! Or simply a reaction against the sterile, packaged ‘experiences’ that seem all too prevalent these days? Nevertheless, deciding to try and visit the (apparently magnificent) Tinto cairn only the night before commencing this year’s Scottish tour is perhaps taking the policy – such as it is – to extremes. But there you are. Anyway, I arrive at the large car park at Fallburn around mid-day, the pristine blue skies of early morning Essex long since replaced by the far more hostile South Lanarkshire version.

Neither the objective, nor route are in question at the outset, a well-worn track snaking away up the hillside to the approx SW towards the prominent skyline cairn, via Totherin Hill. The optical effects of fore-shortening, not to mention the company of a number of other local Saturday walkers, reduce the impact of what is, after all, going to be an ascent of a 2,320ft mountain in less than ideal conditions. To be fair, it’s not the most difficult climb, although, ironically, I make very heavy weather of it due to a combination of lack of sleep and a ‘stitch’ which just won’t go away. The dodgy shoulder again. Then there’s the wind.... which suddenly makes itself felt as I leave the lee of the mountain above Maurice’s Cleuch. Suffice to say I’m glad I can delve into the rucksack to retrieve full kit and not simply apply a ‘hoodie’ like others. But then I’m not a tough local, but a soft Sassenach. So, a final struggle, and there it is. From what I understand, Scotland’s largest upland cairn.

I don’t think I will ever be able to adequately relate why these mountain round cairns – after all no more than large piles of stones – affect me to such an extent. Perhaps it’s the recognition of the sheer effort they must have taken to erect? Or possibly they unlock some long suppressed folk memories, remnants of which survive in the infuriating ‘need’ for some to add to their fabric today? Or are they simply physical representations of that ‘on top of the world’ feeling of dominance most social animals seem to seek? Or just the connection with the elements, both on the physical (wind, rain... hey, even sun)and metaphysical levels (appreciation of views)? Or is it simply that they were erected by people so long ago, yet still remain to provide a link to them, no matter how tenuous?

Whatever the truth – assuming there is a truth – all of the above applies to the great Tinto cairn to arguably a greater extent than most – possibly all – of the other such monuments I’ve visited in these Isles. It is simply massive! Gigantic. Truly astonishing. I climb to the summit of the massive stone pile.... alone.... since a sudden, violent squall accompanied by a mantle of mist sends the other summit visitors heading for their cars, soaked from head to foot. Ha! How dare you call me a mere hill..... However the swirling cloud disperses and the vistas are once again exquisite... yeah. I’m convinced it is the outlook which was the primary factor in the siting of these monuments. The cairn marks the spot.... some spot, some cairn. Methinks extreme locations generate extreme emotions.

Unfortunately the cairn has not been well treated. Litter is all too sadly in evidence, not to mention a pathetic attempt at a ‘storm shelter’, with remnants of some circular, stone pillar to the south. However Tinto cairn is simply so overwhelming in stature that these merely scratch the surface, so to speak. I stay for c4 hours, gobsmacked by the magnitude of this mountain top monument, only to spot what appears to be a multi-vallate hillfort beside the track upon the final descent. It is too much. How I missed the Fallburn enclosure on the way up, I’ll never know. Some first day.

Although I didn’t get to visit this Passage Grave up close it is easily visible in the distance from Newgrange itself; in the field the other side of the road you came along in the bus.

Although I didn’t get to visit this Passage Grave up close (in a field full of crop and not part of the Newgrange ‘tour’) I was able to see it out of the bus window.
Easily seen on the left (when travelling from the visitors centre to Newgrange)

Visited 23.5.11
While we were waiting for our turn to enter the passage of Newgrange, Dafydd and myself walked (or more accurately got blown) around the remains of the stone circle.
The stones are large but not as large as Avebury/Stonehenge. They were however big enough to afford shelter from the near gale force wind!
We also walked down to the bottom of the field where a single large standing stone stood.
The stone seemed to align with the entrance to Newgrange?
Two chaps had a long tape measure and were measuring something out across the field – no idea what they were up to?

Visited 23.5.11
At last, I get to visit the famous Newgrange – and what a fab place it is!
Now, I know a lot has been said about the reconstruction, restrictions on visiting times etc but despite all this I thoroughly enjoyed my (brief) visit.
Following out bus ride to Knowth, myself and Dafydd jumped on our allotted bus to Newgrange. There were 4 of us on the bus to Knowth – there were 60 of us on two buses going to Newgrange!! As we wound our way through the country lanes I caught my first glimpse of the famous white façade through the trees – I was getting excited! We disembarked and waited for our guide to lead us to the site.
I won’t talk about the site itself as I doubt there is anything else I can add.

What I will talk about are the visitor arrangements.
I thought the visitor centre was excellent; housing a very good museum, shop and restaurant.
(Far, far better than what Stonehenge has to offer!)
The organisation of the site bookings/buses was slick and the staff friendly and helpful.
I also thought the entry fee was very reasonable (free for Dafydd)
The only down side for me was the lack of time you had actually at the site to have a good look around and try to get a ‘feel’ for the place. In saying that I guess with so many people wishing to visit, it is understandable that time is kept to a minimum?

I can’t finish without mentioning the chamber – wow! fantastic!
The ‘light show’ they do is very well done and adds to the occasion.
All in all a most definite ‘must see’ site.

Visited 4.6.11
I had read previously that the best place to see the Hillfort was from Dryham Park (NT site) but I chose to have a closer look!
In all honesty there wasn’t much to see up close. All that was obvious was the curving ditch heading off into the woods. A hedgerow had grown following the contour of the ditch. The ditch was approximately 1 metre deep.
There is room to park right outside the gate leading you to the field.
Perhaps this is a Hillfort best viewed from afar after all?

Visited 4.6.11
A very easy site to access being right next to a minor road with plenty of places to pull over on the grass verge.
The Long Barrow is approximately 2 metres high x 10 metres wide x 20 metres long.
It stands in a field of wheat and is covered in tall grass / nettles etc. There were a few stones sticking out of the grass at the western end. The opposite end of the Long Barrow seems to have been destroyed by the field hedgerow. There are no signs of the Long barrow in the field the other side of the hedgerow. A large tree grows out of the Barrow at this end.
The O/S map shows a tumulus in a field to the south (under the electricity pylons) but I didn’t have time to go and look for it.

Walked up here from Llanfihangel Crucorney, home to the “Oldest Pub in Wales” if its sign is to be believed (4.6.2011). It’s a walk along winding country lanes, a bit more traffic than comfortable but nice and easy going. For those who wish to visit by car, take the narrow and steeply climbing lane that’s the first on the right after Stanton (opposite a pub and campsite), this leads up to a forestry parking place and the fort is a fairly short walk from there.

It’s worth at least walking along the lane from the forestry parking, as there are terrific views to be had to the north, taking in the central Black Mountains ridges and the village of Cwmyoy with its wonky church, through gaps in the foliage. Plus someone has built a little ‘stone circle’ (well, arc) thing near to Pen-Rhiw. On a hot day like my visit, the shady lane is a welcome break from the blazing sunshine too.

The approach to the camp is across the access land to its north. The northern rampart is immediately visible, protecting the fort on its naturally weakest side. Following the curve of the slope round to the eastern entrance, it’s here that the views really start to kick in. First of all the umistakable profile of Ysgyryd Fawr (The Skirrid), over to the southeast. Entering the fort at its eastern end and I’m presented with a beautiful vista, centred on Pen-y-Fal (The Sugarloaf).

The rampart is much less formidable on the southern side, understandable given how sharply the hillside drops away to the farmland below. It’s difficult to take my eyes off the view though. Before reaching the halfway point along the southern rampart, the fort is bisected by a bank dividing the eastern (higher) side from the western side. To the west the views keep on unfolding, taking in Crug Mawr, with the rounded summit of Pen Cerrig-calch just visible beyond. Then round to the northwest and the shapely summit of Pen-y-Gadair Fawr, clothed by the greenery of the Mynydd Du forest. Further NNW, the ridge of Chwarel y Fan, my ultimate objective for the day, seems a long way off.

Onto the rampart along the north, noting that two separate earthworks cross the centre of the fort. Approaching the eastern end, the rampart bulges outwards, following the natural line of the slope. The lush Vale of Ewyas (home to Llanthony Priory) provides a contrast to the exposed, steep-sided ridges on either side. Breathtaking.

The panoramic views all around, taking in much of the Black Mountains, belie the relatively modest height of the fort (although calling 427m a modest height depends on relative heights of the immediate surroundings!). Superbly sited, come on a clear and fine day to best appreciate its charms.

I head north, towards Garn Wen and then onwards and upwards to Chwarel y Fan.

It is easy to see why old Fred Coles and others possibly thought there was a stone circle here – there are boulders everywhere. Possibly two enclosures are here but I managed to find one as the site is heavily overgrown. Two large boulders, 8 feet apart, mark the south western entrance. From the northern boulder an arc of smaller boulders can easily be seen. This leads onto an earthen bank. Stones can be seen in a circular shape but a winter time visit will make things clearer. Still it has impressive views of the River Don and Tyrebagger, northern slopes (the Slacks cairn etc.).

Heading east on the B977 take the second farm track south after the B979 (Newmachar) road. Just before Newmill Farm a track heads east. Follow this until the dry stane enclosed wood. The enclosure is to the eastern side, Logie Farm being immediately east.

Visited 4/06/2011.