Latest Fieldnotes

Visited 19th January 2012
Nicely set against the backdrop of Mullaghmesha to the East an Imposing stone some 15ft high. It has been incorporated into a field boundary wall.
It is visible from the road and certainly catches the eye as you drive past. For access ask at the farm (Ballyhooley Farm), the farmer is really helpful and let me park in the farm yard. The farm dogs of all shapes and sizes are vociferous but harmless. Go through the two gates and its only 30 yards or so away. Another great West Cork site, with so much atmosphere, despite the electric fences.

This time I parked about a hundred yards further down the road from the trig point, the shortest point between the road and the barrow, just a quick hop over a barbed wire fence and whilst Bob isn’t technically my uncle we’re certainly good friends.
In the same field as me and the long barrow were some ponies, as soon as they saw me confidently striding across the field they all came galloping over,
some getting a little too close for comfort, eight of them there were, big muscular ponies, that looked me straight in the eye, I looked back and radiated masterful intentions, then I jumped over a small stream and left them behind, they seemed unwilling to cross the very small stream but I was glad they had lost interest so quickly, move along nothing to see here.

Now, in the winter, the barrow is more visible and easier to traverse than in the summer, eighteen months ago was my first visit and i’m happy to be back so relatively quickly. The north-western end is larger than its southeastern partner, higher and wider, but I don’t know whether these things have fronts and ends, only that it points south east vaguely towards the Bride stones and the winter solstice sunrise, closer inspection may yield a more definitive picture. The long barrow also sports three sets of rabbit holes, nothing outside they’re entrances but sand, is this an indication of it’s build and make up.
I also jumped across the loach brook and scrambled up the opposite bank for a wider view of the small river valley, the long barrow really stands out, looking good even in the mid afternoon gloom of perhaps the greyest day of the year so far, weather wise.

26.01.2012

A place I’d only found out about recently, and after getting absolutely battered with the hail whilst walking around Avebury this felt like about all I was up to.

The place is palpably magical and sacred, without a doubt. The solitude and sanctity of the visit was rather diminished by a pheasant shoot which was going on nearby, but the ‘specialness’ of the place came through even that.

Probably my perceptual set, but the near-recumbent willow/s remind me of the legs of a birthing mother, further sanctifying the site. Silbury looks down, and in an area which can often get crowded this is much quieter and worth a short detour.

Visited on the 29th January 2012
Situated in the grounds of the catholic church at Darrary, just past the Agricultural College and the reconstructed Ring Fort at Luis na gCon (Lisnagun) at W417418.

[visited 29/1/12] What a glorious little stone with an equally glorious view. Its a similar profile to the near-by Whaley Bridge stone and sits in a similarish position, this one having a wider view. Its on a little knoll next to the footpath, so you may have to do a quick ninja run to get right next to it.

It’s yet another shouldered head of valley stone as well, this one made me seriously think there could be something in the stone representing an ancestor idea. Give it a biodegradable head and you’ve got a symbol that can look over your land, that can be seen from a fair way away.

Access should be easy, there are no stiles from the road, but there is a shut gate into the field then a short steepish climb. There is a space for a car to park just up the road from the farm, I however headed over from kettleshulme via the footpaths. Again this should be straight forward, just aim for the one that comes out nearest the farm, not the one the other side as this takes you through a swamp.

[visited 8/1/12] Without a GPS and with blanket mist, I found this by educated luck, basically heading downhill in the right direction from the main barrow. Its a fairly small enclosure, presumably designed to keep cattle penned in as the high land immediately next to it would have made defensive use very difficult. The banks that are left look to be in good condition, though I didn’t walk the whole thing as I was getting rushed for time by this point.

Access is the same as the rest of Eldon Hill.

[visited 8/1/12] I came up here in blanket mist, with visibility down to 40-50 metres, but I still found both definate barrows on top of the hill.

First the small “later” barrow to the East, clearly defined and reminiscent of some in the cairn fields in the more southern and eastern moors of the peaks. In the mist watch out for mine workings and just head to the high bit at the East end of the hill. Not worth the trip on its own I have to say, but worth seeing if you are up here.

Secondly I headed for the bigger barrow, keeping in mind it was on the only high point to the West, I tried to keep on the highest points and headed off into the gloom. Via an accidental detour halfway down the slope towards Eldon hole, I found the bigger barrow. This is another good sized barrow in the Northern peaks, of a similar size to Cow low, Lord’s seat et al. The obligatory massive hole in the middle didn’t disapoint, but the much more recent cairn on top was a sad sight for me. I presume because of the hole and maybe the quarry, walkers felt marking this point in the mist is necessary. To be fair to them, it certainly helps find it!

Via Eldon Hill enclosure I made the obligatory trip to Eldon Hole. A scary open wound into the centre of the earth, no wonder this hill was once called Elvedon Hill. This is definately an entranceway into the nether realm.

Access is across a few fields. I parked near the top of Winnets Pass which is a 40 minute trip to the top of the hill. You could probably park near Perryfoot and come at it from that direction. Stiles abound from either way, but its pretty firm under foot.

28/01/2012 – Glen Esk, I love this place. Stop the car anywhere in the Glen and walk, you can’t go wrong. Today we parked by the phone box (space for 4 cars, NO 5403 7896) at Millden Lodge. Loop of Mount Battock but on the way we stopped off at Red Castle cairn. This is a really great cairn, 18m diameter, ringed by lovely red sandstones (hence the name). Surrounded by a field system. Bit off the beaten track but well worth a visit. On the way back down the hill we chatted with a farmer who told us stories of illicit stills and witches’ covens. Good weather today, cold but no wind.

28/01/2012 – Parked at NO 5666 7783. Space for a couple of cars at entrance to drive. No access problems. Short walk up drive to circle. Stones a bit jumbled but I liked the 3 big ones that were standing together. Nice views.

visited on January 2nd 2012
About 50 yards down the road on the right hand side (heading towards Knocknakilla) there is a stone allignment, made up of two stones. They are visible through the gate and are alligned NE – SW. Just walk along from where you are parked at the junction for the circle

Visited 2nd January 2012
Another site that we found en route to somewhere else ! This time we were looking for Knocknakilla, heading down the lane when I hear the shout “STONES”. A quick pull in at the junction, wait for the shower to pass then get out to see a mass of stones over in the field.
An information panel tells us that we are at Glantane East stone circle. What it doesn’t tell you is how to get in the field. So it’s a quick jump over the ditch and under the fence and head down to see what we’ve got. To be honest, it’s a bit of a mess. There’s a massive stone and an equally big one fallen at the other side of the circle. The circle has six stones still standing and there are others laying around. It is also surrounded by the remains of a fosse.
The information board says that there were possibly 11 or 13 stones in the circle originally.

My favourite stone circle of all time. I lived around the area for 25 years, visiting it in all seasons. I loved it’s remoteness and the fact that you had to make an effort to get there. The fact that a lot of people just walked by without giving it a second glance prompted me to write a poem about it back in 2008

Circles of Stone

My heart is in the lonely places, the forgotten places
that people walk by without seeing
that people walk by without thinking
Where echoes of the past float on the wind
For those that want to hear
For those who want to care
For those who want to be somewhere,
else

The Raven always watching over
Guardian of life and bearer of death
of those who have gone before
Their memories lost, waiting to be found
In the swirling mist and the circles of stone

I am a stranger in this time
Wandering and searching for a truth
that is always out of reach
and I sit
in the circle of life and death set in stone
and live with the pain of having no hope
while listening, for the voices of the past

February 2008

Visited on the 20th January 2012
I’ve been meaning to visit this site for ages now and eventually got around to it last week.
From Skibbereen direction turn off left in Connanagh by the Beehive, go up the hill and take the first right.Keep going, ignore the left fork, go past the right hand turn and eventually you pass a farm entrance on your left, then there is a gate into a field, a big long field. This will be the field that you want. Really, you should go and ask the farmer , who lives up the next left by the bungalow. There are parking spaces along this road, before you reach the gate,
The day that I went, there was no answer at the farm, so I just went for it. Through the gate, up the long field and through the gate at the top.
Just as I reached the top of the hill, the circle came into view..... and so did the three BIG horses that are in the field. I’m not so keen on horses and I have to admit that they do make me a bit nervy ! so I quietly made my way over to the circle hopeing that they wouldn’t see me. Of course, all three look up and make their way over,I quicken the pace and arrive at the circle before them.
The circle has an electric fence around it, but it’s not switched on (or at least wasn’t on this day !). The ditch surrounding the circle is full of stagnant rancid water lots of frog spawn, but luckily someone has put a few bits of wood to make access easier. You still sink ankle deep, but at least it’s not knee deep.
This is a great circle though, it reminds me of a Dartmoor or West Cornwall circle.There are thirteen stones, all still standing. There is a feeling of peacefulness here. There is no noise other than the wind rustling through the grass. Even the horses, which are now grazing around the outside look calm and serene. It was a shame that it was such grey day, as I bet that the views from here are spectacular.
I’m definitely going to have to come back here again soon !

Visited 2nd January 2012
About a mile further along the road from Carriganimmy to Knockraheen you will see a brown sign for Dolmen pointing right into a field. There is room to park a few yards backat the top of a long farm track, where there is a possible standing stone built into the stone wall.
Climb over the gate and in the field you will find a large cairn, a standing stone and the burial chamber.
The wedge tomb, which is also known as The Bealik, has had a stone wall (ditch) built behind it. The small rectangular standing stone is just slightly off allignment with the wedge tomb, some 60 ft away to the East
The large overgrown cairn lies in the corner of the field,

Visited on the 2nd January 2012
Signposted from carriganimmy up a lane to the left (coming from Mill Street diresction). Keep going for a little over a mile and you will see a brown sign saying Archaelogical Sites. There’s room to park by the sign. Go through the gate into the obligatory boggy field. There’s a stone allignment a five stone circle and a radial cairn.
The allignment is made up of 2 quartz blocks together and a further granite block set back on its own some.The granite block has a cup mark on the top and all three are alligned NE towards the circle.
The circle itself is a nice large five stone recumbant circle in really good condition. It was a shame that the electric fence was so near, but you can’t have everything !
The radial cairn is situated SE of the circle and all the monuments here are intervisible

visited 5th January 2012
I parked at the junction at V854331 and walked down the lane. The Boulder burial is visible from the lane, situated near the shoreline of a small bay.You have to walk through a wet, tidal, reedy field to reach it.
It consists of a large boulder supported by three large stones.

Visited 5th January 2012
Situated in a field off of a narrow lane between Dunmanus East and West. there is room to park in the gateway 50yds south.
It is over 2 metres in height and is leaning heavily against another stone. Possibly part of a two stone allignment.

Visited 2nd January 2012
Cnoc na Cille – “Hill of the church”
Situated on the North Western slope of Musherabeg mountain.
There is a signpost and a gate, giving access, up a wet boggy hill.The site has been fenced off, presumably to protect it from the sheep or forestry workers ! There are two massive stones, one fallen, the other leaning towards the circle, forming an allignment NE – SW. Both are at least 3.5 to 4 metres tall. The circle itself is a five stone recumbant circle. Three stones still stand with two fallen.

Visited 28th December 2011
Macha na Saili – “the milking place of the willows”
An Impressive site, made even more so by it’s setting.
Five stones of varying sizes still stand and one slab has fallen. None of the stones are massive, but there is something special about this row. There is a great feel to the place and the atmosphere here is so relaxing.
The row lies on the North Western slope of Knockbreteen on a ENE – SSW axis. overlooking Lough Atoreen. To the West is Knockboy and Coomhoola Mountain. To the North is An Carran.
When excavated in 1977, several shallow pits were found to have been dug in the topsoil and quartz pebbles scattered around the stones. Two flint scrapers were also found.
Access is easy. there is a kissing gate, with room to park.
Go through the gate, up a slight hill and there it is, right in front of you.

Visited 27th January 2012

Take the Clydagh Valley road off of the N22 and follow until you reach a barn with a track going of left at W145840. There’s plenty of room here to park. Follow the track up through through three gates until the end of the forestry then strike off up the steep slope to the left. It’s steep and slippery ! Pick out your route as you go. There is a boggy bit at the head of the stream, but it should present no difficulty. Just keep going up and you will come to the eastern Pap. The Western Pap is an easy walk from here. Just a straight forward down then follow the stones up to the summit cairn.
When I visited today, the snow was knee deep on the Western Pap and I was greeted by blizzard conditions and a whiteout for a while. The wind was so strong that I could hardly stand.
The return trip can be a little slippery ! and you will most definitely NOT have dry feet by the time you get back to your car ! The whole walk took 3 and a half hours. A great exhilarating day out in the hills !

How often Winterbourne Poor Lot must be seen from speeding cars and not up close. It’s as true for me as anyone. It’s only the second time I’ve stopped off here to have a closer look. It’s not an easy place to stop at. There is no obvious easy access from any direction. The road is fast and the fences don’t exactly invite you in. For all that this is a site managed by English Heritage, on their site it still says access via Wellbottom Lodge and this is probably the only place to park. Even then the road is so fast that stopping there and getting back out again in one piece feels like quite a mission!

Once up there on the hill though and it’s a different world, albeit one that shares the main road. Maybe the fact that people usually pass by instead of stopping here adds something to the place, it’s certainly nice to have the place to oneself for a little while.

The view across to Long Bredy is very good and looking back in the other direction knowing that Broad Stone and The Nine Stones lie just around the corner

Long Bredy is one of the most accessible sites in this area, it even has it’s own bus stop! From the bust stop it’s through the gate and up the concrete trackway to the top, and you’re there. This site is a pleasure to visit since the site on a public right of way, the bank barrow itself magnificent and the views also. It’s just high enough up and away from the road for it to be possible to just lose yourself here for a while. Today I only had the company of a few cows, the custodians of the site perhaps.

The Winterbourne Poor Lot round barrows are in full view from the bank barrow and this is one of the better perspectives to see Poor Lot from.

The good news for juamei is that the other stones are still there. The stone right next to the road is not too covered as of today, It looks like people go there to keep it clear. The main covering today was of some roadside litter that I took away.

It wasn’t possible to make out the shape of the circle that Moth saw here a few years ago, maybe at a different time of year it will still be possible to see the outline of what once was.

I head across to the enclosure. Oblong in shape, the stonework of the walls still stands to a few courses high. Much more limestone lies around and about, so building material was certainly not an issue. What is rather less clear is why the structure has been built around a shake hole. I assume (geologists, please help) that the hole was already there when the walls were put up around it. It’s not very big, so its mysterious portal-to-the-underworld qualities are fairly limited. Odd.

To the north of here the map shows an enormous expanse of quarry, so my route cuts directly east up the slopes of Cefn yr Ystrad. This proves to be much harder going, the grass masking lumps and bumps of limestone and hollows that could turn an ankle with ease. I’m relieved to reach the ridge and even more relieved to see the day’s main objective, the enormous bronze age cairn of Carn y Bugail (“Cairn of the Shepherd”). It’s still some way off, and the intervening terrain is not the easiest to cross. What looks like a smooth grassy plateau actually takes a tiring 10 minutes of route-picking and step-watching even in this dry weather.

But the effort is entirely justified. The OS map shows two named cairns here, but our friends at Coflein are not content with that and have added another two. The named cairns are the real beauties, despite the efforts of many visitors to hollow out their interiors. Carn y Bugail has been moulded into a rather peculiar shape, two piles of stones heaped up on top of the mound giving it an oddly horned shape, like a toad or lizard. Despite this, it’s a huge cairn, 3m high, as big as any I’ve visited and boasting terrific views to the central Beacons and across to the Black Mountains to the northeast. The view north is blocked by the equally massive Garn Felen. (“The Yellow Cairn”) and the prominent mound that Garn Felen III sits atop, forming the end of the summit ridge. Beyond that Waun Rydd fades into the deepening haze as midday approaches. To the immediate northeast of Carn y Bugail are a collection of enormous (presumably natural) limestone blocks that form the outer extent of the cairn.

To the east of Garn Felen is a small pyramidal modern cairn, with a wooden cross set into its top. This monument to the crew of a Wellington bomber, marked in Gladman’s fieldnotes, is indeed poignant. Even more so when you see that small fragments of twisted and melted aluminium surround the base of the cairn, the remains of the plane itself. Cause to stop a while. Despite the sadness of such a sight, there are worse places to be remembered. And remembered the fallen airmen obviously still are.

Garn Felen cairn is a match for Carn y Bugail in size. The top has been similarly scooped, but without the pointy rebuild. It remains a seriously impressive monument though, the plentiful limestone scattered all over the mountain’s top being an easy source for such a monster. From here the obvious focal point is actually Garn Felen III and the Waun Rydd summit beyond, with a deep valley in between. So it’s to Garn Felen III that I head next.

The obvious cairn here is a small, pointy, modern thing, but it sits on a great rounded mound of limestone blocks that forms the northern end of the long summit ridge. Coflein has recognised this for another bronze age cairn, although the OS don’t mark it. Beyond, the ground falls steeply away, to a lower shelf where Garn Felen enclosure is visible. The landscape below the cairn is a weird, pock-marked sea of natural sink holes and possibly some human intrusion, like a turf-skinned holey cheese. The bigger scarring of the modern quarry is just visible over the ridge beyond.

I head back across to the SW to the summit trig point. I think this marks the highest point of the mountain, but the substantial nature of the main cairns means that they may rise above it. The trig has been well placed for the better sight-lines over to the west though. From here the three big cairns are laid out in profile, and what an impressive trio they make. Interestingly there is a flattened, circular patch of limestone blocks surrounding the trig. Could this be the remnants of yet another cairn? It certainly seems possible, although the Uplands Survey recorded the trig pillar but didn’t comment on this in doing so.

Looking westwards, the ground drops away into a little cwm. On the slope opposite are the remains of Garn Felen II, a shattered cairn in a slightly odd situation. All that remains is a turfed over doughnut, with a scatter of exposed limestone blocks on the downslope side, the whole thing perched halfway down the slope. Compared to the other three cairns it is slight and has no impressive views either to or from it (although the prominent bump of Garn Felen III is in clear view). But it does make for a nice sheltered spot to sit and contemplate the minds of the people who came to this exposed, rugged mountain top millennia ago. They left behind monuments that survive so well and I’m sure they would be pleased to know that the places still exerts such a pull on this visitor.