Latest Fieldnotes

This lies just off a track accessed next to an abandoned farmhouse on the the main road, make sure to close all the gates, if you continue another 1.5km to the end of the track its reasonably easy to find Boloona Wedge tomb about 500m distant

I found this one whilst trawling through Cofleins vast array of blue dots, something I used to be happy to spend a whole day doing. This is what Coflein says of it.... Site Description

Record derived from GAT SMR. One massive elongated rock above 3 other smaller rocks. If larger broken rock boulder was entire it would be laid at an angle perhaps supported by smaller stones now collapsed. Suggests IR may be collapsed megalithic monument. Appears to be natural landform.

I made a pact with the god of maybe to one day get there and see it for myself, after pinpointing it’s exact position, and working it into a long walk over and round the Carneddau, I finally made it, it only took two years.

The dolmen ? is on the edge of a settlement of some sort, if my memory serves it might only be medieval, (sorry to any medievalists, but then what are doing on a prehistory website)
Nestled at the bottom of precipitous cliffs below Bwlch y Tri Marchog on a slight rise, it seems to be in a proper position to be a megalithic site. The big capstone is indeed broken in two, if it was whole it would look a whole lot more like a dolmen, but maybe we’ll never know for sure. For now the disputed antiquity label very much applies here.
One thing that is for sure is it’s outstanding position, wild and wonderful, if you do come set faces to stunned, and enjoy.

You wont be able to see this cairn from the car, in fact you can’t see this cairn from anywhere except up in the mountains, way up in the mountains. So get off your arse, get some comfortable clothing and some stout shoes (don’t know what that means but..) and come and see not just this cairn but some of the best countryside there is in Wales, or Britain for that matter.
Situated just below Carnedd Llewelyn, third highest mountain in Wales and England, and just above Craig yr Ysfa, a narrow ridge between Pen yr Helgi Du and Pen Llithrig y Wrach, I may have said at times that some other areas are beautiful, but if that is so then this place is heaven, an earthly paradise for those of us who like beautiful places.

Tristan, as in Tristan and Iseult, was a Knight of Arthur’s round table, Tristan whose name in Cornish means sadness, went on the grail hunt with all the other knights. After not finding the grail (we all know it is a person) he was buried here in Snowdonia. Or so they say.....
The cairn itself is a bit of a weird one, it is either the small, very small pile of stones on a natural knoll half way up the mountain ,or it is the knoll itself. From the south the knoll looks very cairn shaped, if it is the cairn it would be bigger than the two on Grach and Llewelyn.
But regardless of who is buried here if anyone at all and regardless of how big the cairn is it’s the place that boggles the mind, and my mind was utterly boggled, I wish I was there right now.

We ascended the Carneddau via the twin lakes of Dulyn and Melynllyn. Whilst sheltering from the absolutely ferocious winds we consumed some butties in the refuge on Foel Grach. En route from Grach to Llewelyn we stood and admired Yr Elen for a while whilst momentarily out of the wind. Ive seen her through the winter mist from Dafydd but this is the first time I’ve seen her from above, and she is very pretty.
But tearing our selves away we carry on towards the third highest mountain in Wales and England, and therefore the highest cairn in Wales and England. The mountain top is a wide area as big as a football pitch, strewn with wind and frost tormented rock formations that strangely reminded me of Gaudi’s Sagrada Família in Barcelona.
Everywhere is covered in shrapnel from these rocks leaving us in no doubt where all the material for the cairn came from, none of this carrying stones from miles away, there’s enough material here for half a dozen Loughcrew type chambers, and wouldnt that be very cool. So why such a comparatively small cairn, ten meters from the cairn is a wind shelter, perhaps they took these stones from the cairn, surely the cairn on Llewelyn can’t have been smaller than Grach’s or Dafydd’s, or just perhaps the preeminent mountain top was enough, pole position is pole position it doesn’t have to be bigger because it’s already on top as it were. But if a beard clothed giant were interred here you’d expect a bigger cairn, wouldn’t you.
There was quite a lot of people up here, some were definitely not suitably attired, but what is suitably attired on such a hot day, i’m used to wrapping up warm and hiding from the rain.
It was time to go, still many miles to cover, we sadly bid adieu to Carnedd Llewelyn and made our way down to Tristans cairn then further down to Craig yr Ysfa, the narrow ridge between Pen yr Helgi du and Pen Llithrig y Wrach, going down on to the ridge and back up the other side was not too taxing but it was certainly no walk in the park, but it was absolutely the best part of the walk, apart from the moment when Alken stumbled whilst fumbling with his camera, “whoa whoa whoa” said I. Legs shaking and muttering the occasional swear word we made it, now for a scramble off the mountain at Bwlch y tri Marchog and a long walk along the Cwm Eigiau and the reservoir.
Staggering, in more than just one way.

We made our ascent of Foel Grach by way of the twin lakes Melynllyn and the Dulyn, both now utilised as reservoirs. It was not too steep, but it was a long slog, alleviated by long superb views back down to the Afon Conwy and good company.
We reached the long path across the whole Carneddau almost half way between Grach and Llewelyn, and turned right towards Foel Grach.

It was evidently the rain gods week off, but in his place came the god of high winds, and he really takes his job seriously, amongst the gods he’s known as a bit of a jobsworth. I have never felt such strong winds, it was difficult standing in one place and impossible to walk in a straight line, eyes would tear, and at times you need hands as well as feet to get around with. Yet through it all the sun shines fiercely, suntan/sunburn fierce, visibility good but not perfect.

The cairn is quite substantial, a good portion of it is rock outcrop though, the cairn material has spread considerably. Still it’s a wonder it’s here at all, Iv’e seen a few of Snowdonia’s mountain top cairns now and this is one that is more on the impressive side. Just below the cairn is a mountain refuge, cosy and comfy, half of me wants to spend the night there, and experience night time on the mountains and sunrise in the morning would be to die for.

The surroundings are nice, extreeemly nice. A dream time place, where signs and portents should always be heeded, where gods are real and all around us. The high plattau of Carnedd Llewelyn beckons us on but not till we’ve had a good long gawp at Yr Elen. It’s my first time, be gentle with me.

Whilst nonchalantly treading the path from from the car park near Llyn Eigiau to the Carneddau high peaks via Pant y Griafolen we came across two upright stones one about six foot the other about two to three foot tall, almost jokingly we immediately labelled it a stone row. Then we saw the fallen stone a couple of feet away from the bigger one, and then it was no way this really might be a stone row, seemingly aligned on Pen y Castell mountain. Then to see that Coflien (were not worthy) has it down as a possible stone row, I’m quite confidant to say it is a bona fide stone row, more so than Ffrith y Bont to the north east one/two miles away.
God bless Coflein, but more than that god bless the ancients for erecting so many sites in such an amazing place, for the area is just packed and is very beautiful.

From Castell, north of Tal y Bont, overlooking the Afon Conwy, go west, the turning is right next to the Afon Dulyn, but the river can’t be seen from the road so look for the pub named Y Bedol and take the first turning east south of it. (hope that made sense)
This eastward road is one car wide for most of the way, it’s steep and winding, but it looks over the river valley shaded from the fierce sun by trees, it’s some truly beautiful countryside.
The road straightens out and goes past where you should park for Hafodygors wen fourposter stone circle. just keep on the same road until it runs out and park here, room for maybe twenty cars, but in good weather it soon fills up.
Upon exiting the car, south east is the small mountain of Moel Eilio, with bronze age settlement, south east is cairn topped Pen llithrig y Wrach. But we turn our backs on them and follow the well laid and often trod path to Clogwyn-yr-Eryr, superb views north east to Pen y gaer, and when you get round the corner and heading west and south west, we pass by a possible stone row. Keeping on, the path delves further and further into the mountains, off to the right of the path is a small settlement, we stopped for a nosey, as you do, but the big places beckon and we’ve a long walk ahead of us, so off we go down the hill. From a distance, if you know where to look the settlement of Pant y Griafolen can be seen from miles away. We ignored the path beseeching us to go that way, and went this way instead cut straight across cross the river it isn’t deep or wide, heading for a stand of pine trees with an obvious tumbled stone wall beneath it.

Pant-y-Griafolen was..... is ... a large settlement, the best way to see it would be to hover about fifty feet above it. Only the most obvious of walling can be seen, a number of hut circles, not
the reputed thirty. But then we weren’t here for extensive field walking, no hut counting, just passing by, playing through. Our long walk intends to take in three mountain peaks two with cairns, it’s very attractive to think that the occupants of one of those cairns could have lived here, perhaps in that large hut circle right there.
This isn’t the best preserved of settlements, but hey it’s over three thousands years old, that’s twice as old as say, Mayan Temples, when three thousand years you reach look so good you will not.

About two miles before reaching Forres (travelling on the A96 from Elgin), you encounter a sign indicating ‘Rafford‘.

Almost immediately after entering the outskirts of Rafford, take the first road on the left as far as the final house (named ‘Castle Hill House’).

Immediately east of this house is a field gate. Enter the field, and follow the boundary fence surrounding the garden of the house for about 100 metres. The fence now turns right: follow it for a further 100 m till it meets the field boundary fence. Templestone Stone Circle is just a few metres beyond this fence.

Na Clachan Bhreige Stone Circle on the Island of Skye stands on an elevated hillock, partly surrounded by the lochan of the same name. The best approach is by taking the path from Kilmarie to Camasunary as far as the ford at 540174 then follow the direction of the stream northward. The ground is generally good with just the occasional boggy spot which is easily avoided.

Soon, you will arrive at a fence. Look out for the stile, cross, and circle west then north to avoid the ‘tail’ of the lochan and a number of streams. There is now only one stream that has to be crossed, and it is very shallow: it can easily be forded through just a few centimetres of water.

Finally, head to the right (eastward) over the raised ground to the Circle, which has three stones standing, and a fourth lying prostrate. The excursion takes just 20-25 minutes walking each way, and provided excellent underfoot conditions all the way despite a recent week of wet weather.

Visited 19th May 2012:

Needless to Drombeg (Droumbeag) was very high on my list of stone circles to visit in Cork. However, as it was on the south coast my companion (and driver) sensibly suggested we visit on our return journey to Wexford. So it was with something of a heavy heart that we drove away from beautiful, wild, West Cork towards the more lushly green pastures of the south. I’m not sure if this coloured my visit – Drombeg is in a wonderful setting but I didn’t experience quite the same thrill as on the Beara Peninsula – coming across Cashelkeelty by chance on our first full day, followed by Ardgroom. Once again I refer back to Jack Robert’s marvellous little book – full of inspired drawings and a comprehensive guide to all the many ancient sites in West Cork. I can’t recommend it too highly (can be obtained from bookshops in Bantry and Kenmare).

Taken from “Exploring West Cork” by Jack Roberts

Droumbeag, stone circle, Fulach Fiann and Fort

Named after the townland in which it stands- drum beag (the small ridge) this is perhaps the most well known prehistoric monument in West Cork and easily found as it is liberally signposted from Rosscarbery or Leap. The circle and its attendant Fulach Fian were excavated in 1958 and the findings from this circle constitute a large proportion of our present knowledge of the use and age of these monuments.

The circle has survived in an almost perfect state of preservation, only one of the stones on the eastern side have fallen, and it probably appears now much as it did to those who came here in pre-Christian times. The circle consists of thirteen stones around an area that was cleared and paved with small flat stones. The excavations have revealed a number of burial pits, one of which contained cremated human remains. Unfortunately none of the findings has established a date for the structure but it is thought it may have still been in use towards the beginning of the Christian era.

The name ‘Recumbent Stone Circle’ is thought to have originated from this circle in which the features of this type of monument are particularly pronounced. The recumbent is a large flat-topped block that is loosely set on the ground, not embedded like all the other stones, and bears three deeply carved cup and ring marks. On the opposite side of the circle are the ‘Portal and Pillar stones’, and it is thought that the circle is set in alignment running through the pillars and across the recumbent. This alignment at Droumbeg is towards the winter sun-set which sets in a cleft of the hill to the south-west.

To the west of the circle are the foundations of what are called ‘hut sites’ one of which is set around a hollow in which there is a stone basin fed with water from a nearby spring. This type of monument is also called a Fulach Fian – cooking place of the hunters – and it is thought that the basin was used as a cooking pot. All around this area are the remains of fires and burnt stone and it thought that the pot was heated by dropping hot stones into the water. However there is some thought that says the use of such sites was actually more ritualistic in nature, a steam bath or early sauna?.

I parked at first track after Orditeach on the A941 and walked north hoping to find the Chapel cairn as well, sadly I didn’t and became lost instead. Now looking at a map (which I’d stupidly left in the car) I found I climbed the Hill of Oldmerdrum, down the other side and waded the Kirkney Water to get back onto the main forestry track. Good fun this if somewhat tiring. I doubled back to the bridge, found the wee car park complete with henge and hillock.

I’ve always wanted to come to this place. It certainly has superb views of Noth. The maze of roads offer superb walks. Take an OS map, helps a lot.

Visited 24/5/2012.

Found yesterday , 3 metres from the site of one of the new Beauly to Denny pylons so some notifications in hand . It has to be said that the all the previously recorded sites on the route that I’m aware have been well signed and the route avoids . This one is different ,although you may have imagined a watching brief would have taken place at such a sensitive spot . Although having said that the markings are not that clear to an unpracticed eye .

Visited 14/5/2012

After visiting Kealkil we walked down the lane, then turning left walked back uphill to find Breeny More. Views even more spectacular than Kealkil. Breeny More is not signposted and, as we were unable to open the gate, we climbed over.

Again I quote from Jack Robert’s “Exploring West Cork”:
“This was once the largest stone circle in West Cork and its quadrant of cromlechs at the centre formed probably one of prehistoric mans’ most important structures. Unfortunately the destruction of this monument has left few of its original stones intact and the destruction continues into the present day. Even the sign erected at the site which establishes it as one of the few protected monuments of the area has been torn from the ground and is heaped up with some stones that originally formed part of the circle.

At present only three of the circle of stones are in their original positions. These may have been the ‘portal’ stones if it was in fact a ‘recumbent stone circle’. Fortunately the enclosure and its cromlechs have yet to be invaded and these, the most curious aspect of the site, are set in an offset square formation and are facing the south west. A complex site of this nature could possibly have been valuable in the search for clues to the original purpose and use of these types of monuments, had it been handed down to us in good order. In its present condition it is possible that its original meaning has been totally destroyed and so we might never know what our ancestors were trying to achieve by building this puzzling structure.”

“Exploring West Cork” was first published in in 1986, the revised and edited edition was republished by Bandia Publishing in 2009.

Visited 14th May 2012

Wrote impressions down immediately after the visit “Brilliantly atmospheric site overlooking Bantry Bay and the western mountains”. This site is well signposted and involves an uphill walk on a narrow road. It is possible to drive up but parking spaces very limited.

In his superb little book “Exploring West Cork” Jack Roberts has written about Kealkil as follows:

“This is deservedly one of the best known and most important sites in the area consisting of an alignment of two large standing stones, a five stone circle and a radial cairn. The site is situated on a hill to the south of Kealkil village and is sign posted at major junctions.

The site was excavated in the 1930’s and the largest of the alignment stones was replaced in its socket. This originally stood at over 5 metres high (17 ft in the original excavation report) but about two metres of the lower portion had broken when it fell. The cairn was one of the earliest radial stone cairns to be properly identified and these comparatively rare and very curious monuments still baffle archaeology in the present day. Perhaps the suggestion that they were used as astronomical calendars is the best interpretation so far put forward but as yet no one has deciphered how they may have served this function. If megalithic architecture was based on a system of orientation and astronomy then this site with its outlook across a mountainous panorama to the west and north could lend itself to a wide range of interpretive possibilities.”

Footnote: The information board says Kealkil is from ‘An Chaolchoill’ meaning ‘the narrow wood’.

This site blew me away, totally unexpected. The credit for finding it goes completely to my companion who is a bit of an OS map devotee. On the other side of Eagle Hill, still with sea views – the path leads first to a large thin standing stone about three fields from the narrow road where we left my friend’s car. Some barbed wire needed to be negotiated as we couldn’t get the gate open (tightly tied up). This site was not signposted so I am guessing we were trespassing.

The wedge tomb is tucked away in the top right hand corner of the field adjacent to the standing stone. It was a perfect small wedge tomb, similar in size to the Cloontreem tomb though in considerably better condition. There seemed to be cup marks on the inside wall of one of the upright stones. A curved row of stones drops down from the tomb towards the standing stone a field away. I had a distinct feeling that tomb and the standing stone were linked together as one site.

16th May 2012:

Back in Castletownbere and a beautiful sunny day, we follow the sign pointing to the Derrymihane West Boulder Burial and Cloontreem (Clountreem) Wedge Tomb. We opt for a walk uphill to look for the wedge tomb on Eagle Hill. The walk is way marked and we were told by a friendly local resident that the capstone has fallen so easy to miss. And miss it we did; it didn’t seem to matter much though as we sat for a while in the lea of some rocks looking out over Bere Haven Harbour glistening in the sunshine. On the way back down we stuck to the trail path and there it was right in front of us. This was the first wedge tomb I had seen and it was much smaller than I imagined and camouflaged by the larger surrounding natural rocks.

The local resident who had given us directions earlier also said there was the shape of a deer on the fallen capstone – we did see this though thought it might be a horse.

Note: there had been a spell of dry weather so the going was relatively easy but be aware this is peat bog land.

18/05/2012 – After visiting the two cairns near Cam Loch we headed over Cnoc an Leathaid Bhig then descended east to this cairn overlooking Loch Awe. This is a good one. Great condition and a good place to put a cairn with a fine view of the big hills north. Well worth a visit. After a while we headed east to A835 and the next Chambered cairn near the bridge.

18/05/2012 – There is something a bit exciting about looking at an OS map in the morning and picking one of the many chambered cairns in this area to visit with no idea what remains till you get there. Will it be worth the effort? In this case the answer was definitely yes. We parked at a good spot (NC 2296 1211) on the A835 and followed the track to the shores of Cam Loch. Leaving the track, once past the deer fence, we headed east over the rise to the two cairns resting on their own little knolls. The Chambered Cairn is the pick of the two with some lovely stones. The other cairn is only a short distance away. What struck me most about them both was the choice of stones used. Fantastic colours with both cairns containing some great ordinary pipe and trumpet pipe rock. Great start to a walk.

Found this lovely stone circle quite by chance. Whilst wandering around Castletownbere we read about it on an tourist information board. Very easy to find as just uphill out of the town and well signposted. In Jack Robert’s “The Antiquities of the Beara Peninsula” it is described as follows: “The Stone Circle can be found in a field on the right of the lane less than 2 km from the main road. Mind you go left at the one junction. The orientation of this circle seems to be towards the Equinox sun-set. The land around the circle, particularly on the west side, contains much burnt material and in the neighbouring field is a Fulach Fiadh, or ancient cooking place.”

Close by is Teerniatallane (Tir na hAiohleann) Ring Fort.

Visited 13th May 2012

We went from the village of Ardgroom up a narrow road – circle is well signposted and there is also a heavy duty metal information board by the field entrance. Very boggy though there are stepping stones through the wettest part of the field. This is a circle that speaks very much for itself – views towards the sea were breathtaking.

Jack Rogers writes: “Also known as Canfea Circle. Of two Stone Circles to be found in the lowlands between Ardgroom harbour and the hills. The circle consists of 11 stones, 9 of which are still upright and one Alignment stone outside the circle. Note the little wall that runs through the site as at Kilmacowen. There is also some fine Ring Forts in the area.”

Just as a little footnote: I was aware of a large attractive cow at the edge of the field as we walked across to the circle, when I stopped to read the information board on the way back she came rushing over at disconcerting speed. My companion pointed out that there was a newly born calf lying concealed in the marsh grass – the mother cow stood protectively over it until we had walked away.

Sunday 13th May 2012

I loved this site because visiting it happened quite by chance. After travelling over the Healy Pass with lots “don’t look down moments” we were on our to Ardgroom. Julian Cope doesn’t mention Cashelkeelty in his Megalithic European section on Cork because it is actually just across the border into Kerry. The green lettered heritage sign was spotted as we drove by so we walked back to investigate without knowing what to expect. A steep climb up through an other-worldly, mossy woodland with waterfalls and streams splashing around us brought us out onto a rocky mountainside track. Another steep walk up the track to what seemed to be a large outlier and small cluster of stones before reaching the main cluster of standing stones. Not sure if I would describe them as circles but they were certainly arranged in two groupings of stones. This was my very first experience of the standing stones of the (circles/alignments) on the Beara Peninsula.

Jack Roberts in his definitive guide ‘The Antiquities of the Beara Peninsula’ describes Cashelkeelty as follows:

“These sites are situated close to a stretch of old trackway, now part of the Beara Way route, known as the ‘Old Green Road’. There are two circles but only one of them is recognisable as a circle. This is one of the few sites that have been archaeologically examined and excavations identified the second circle.”

As I was to later discover when visiting other sites on the Beara Peninsula – the view is everything. On the side of a mountain, overlooking the sea. A cuckoo was calling ...

This one is dedicated to my Mum!

Visited 12th May 2012 – on the drive from Wexford to West Cork after an overnight ferry stop. Inspired to visit by Ken Williams’ beautiful photos, this site fully lives up to expectations. Magical seems to be the only word to describe it – enclosed in a small grove of oak trees, bluebells and stitchwort all around, foxgloves waiting to open, there is indeed something faery-like about the place. It is a magnificent portal tomb, comparable to Carreg Samson on the other side of the Irish Sea.

Situated near the Waterford county border, take the R682 keeping an eye out for a green lettered heritage sign. Take a signposted turning off this road on the way to Tramore – keep driving until you see another heritage sign pointing the way. The nearby house/farm has had stone walls built with large security gates seeming to obstruct the lane up to the dolmen. Do not be put off – they have built a gap into the stone wall for people to walk through, then just a few metres up the lane. Well signposted.

I visited Carreg Samson yesterday on the way home from the Fishguard ferry. Almost declined the suggestion to make the detour as by this time travel weary and a long journey still ahead.

What an uplifting experience – midday yesterday the sky and sea were sparkling blue. My friend drove to Abercastle via Mathry from where we took a short walk along the coast path to a signpost pointing uphill – quite accessible as steps have been laid. Carreg Samson lived up to all my expectations and felt very much in keeping with the sites I had just been visiting in West Cork as again, facing out to sea. This visit somehow made light of the long drive back to Wiltshire which lay ahead.

The Dead Wife’s Cairn on Clayshooter Hill is practically gone but it still has truly wonderful views. Hillforts at Tap O Noth, Wheedlemont and Cairnmore can be seen at different angles, as well as looking down into Kildrummy and north west into the wild and lonely Cabrach (home to the Grouse Inn). Head south from Rhynie on the A97 then head west on the B9002, past Craig Castle, Whitehillock, home to a standing stone, and pull into the track after Silverford. Like a lot of small farms this place is now desolate and resembles a small ghost town.

The track, today, is a mixture of dry, flooded, swamp, fords and in parts brand new as new fencing is going up. Various marker stones indicate the names of estates nearby Clova, Craig etc. After a small loch the cairn can be seen looking north east. It is over 5 meters wide and almost 1 meter high at it’s tallest. Only a couple bits of cairn material are visible as the cairn is covered in turf and heather.

Still the scenery is wonderful, nature seemed happy with itself and it was warmish. Well worth the trek!

Visited 20/5/2012.

These stones are at the eastern gate of Rhynie Square. (opposite the shop on the A97) Originally they stood at the opposite side of the road, with garden of Rhynie’s Free Church manse surrounding them. Sadly the southern stone has been broken. A repair job of sorts has happened.

Visited 20/5/2012.