Latest Fieldnotes

Visited 26.7.15

The stone is easily seen (on your right) when walking back from the circles towards the car park. There is no path to the stone and you have to jump over a low fence to get to it.

Although ignored by the other visitors today this is a fine stone with excellent sea views. Like most of the stones on Machrie Moor it is grooved by thousands of years of rain. The stone is approximately 1.5m high.

Hob will be pleased tp know that the wooden fence surrounding the memorial has already fallen to bits!

This stone is well worth checking out when visiting the more famous stone circles. It is only a short walk from the main track.

Visited 26.7.15

The path to the stone circles takes you past the remains of this chambered cairn. It is to the immediate right of the path. It is impossible to miss – although everyone else out today walked past it without giving it a second glance!

Although there are only two stones remaining they are large. The end stone is approximately 1m square whilst the side stone is about 1m x 2m long. They sit on a long low mound of grassed over stones, approximately 3m wide x 10m long.

There’s not much left, but what there is is nice.

Visited 26.7.15

Directions:
Driving north on the B842 take the turning on the right signposted cemetery. The road is rough, particularly considering where it leads. Park at the turning to the left where the road leads down to the cemetery and the farm. You can see the chambered tomb from here. It is right next to the graveyard – very apt!

Myself and Dafydd walked down the road and through a rusty gate. Karen stayed in the car with Sophie – who was asleep. Access to the field where the remains of the chamber is via a second metal gate. The field is overgrown but the site is a good one. The standing stone is approximately 2m high. A large prostrate stone lies next to it, along with several other large stones. The burial chamber is on an obvious raised stony mound about 10m across. The views along the valley are good. The only thing spoiling it are the pylons, but needs must I guess.

Whilst we were here we also had a look around the more modern cemetery. Tow graves caught my eye. The first was of Walter McIntosh who unfortunately drowned at sea in 1911 – a fisherman no doubt? Next to it was a grave to Janet Currie who died in 1916 – whilst at the Post Office we are informed!

This is a good place to come if you happen to be in the area.

Visited 23.7.15

Follow Hamish’s directions.
Access to the site is via a couple of field gates.

As Hamish says, this site is all about the location. The views across the channel to Mull are fantastic. The clear turquoise water, white sand, rose colored rocks and lush green grass is something to behold. Added to this a blue sky and white fluffy clouds – a change from the torrential rain on my last visit!

Cladham Diseirt is overgrown and unloved.

Iona is a special place, somewhere everyone should visit at least once.

Visited 23.7.15

Just to report the Bullaun Stones are now back next to the well. As they appear in the photos.

So all is well at the well :)

Visited 24.7.15

The last time I visited Dafydd was only 1 and Sophie not even a twinkle. Dunadd is a place I had wanted to bring them ever since.

Karen sat in the car while we headed up the short but steep uneven ‘path’ to the summit. We stopped half way up look at the well. We also read all the information boards. I think these are new since my last visit? In saying that it was pouring down then so perhaps I didn’t take so much notice! No such problem today with blue skies and warm sunshine for a change on this otherwise wet Scottish holiday.

What I certainly didn’t notice last time was the boar etched into the stone next to the famous footprint or the Ogham script. Dafydd and Sophie took turns trying their feet for size before we headed back down.

This is a great place to visit with extensive views. Should be on everyone’s ‘must see’ list when visiting the beautiful Kilmartin valley.

Visited 24.7.15

The stone can be seen in the garden of the house next to the car park for the famous fort. It is in the middle of the lawn. What a great garden feature!

Visited 24.7.15

Directions:
Just before you enter the village of Ford – in a field on your left – can’t miss it – it’s a big ‘un.

There is room to squeeze in opposite the field gate. Over said gate and a short walk to the second gate – easy access. The stone is approximately 3m high and covered in hairy lichen. There were several bales of hay near the stone on my visit.

This is a great spot for a standing stone with lovely views all around. Make the effort for the short detour away from the ‘bright lights’ of Kilmartin to say ‘hello’ – you won’t be disappointed.

Visited 24.7.15

Directions:
From Kilmartin take the A186 north. Then take the B840 signposted Ford. The stone is immediately adjacent to the road on the right – can’t miss it.

The broken stone is right next to the road, the other side of a small wall and barbed wire fence. It has a smaller stone next to its front and the large broken section is prostrate on the ground behind.

Worth stopping for if driving along this pretty road.

Visited 25.7.15

Directions:
As previously reported the track you need to take is not the most obvious! Park at the bridge where the A83 crosses the burn. There are 3 houses next to the bridge. Walk north along the A83 and take the first turning on the right. This is a rough track leading up to the metal shed you can see from the road. As you approach the shed the stones will come into view. The stones are not visible from the road. Hope this helps?

We were heading for the Mull of Kintyre (cue much humming!) and were running late – again. However, this is a site I wanted to see and didn’t want to miss the opportunity. When I eventually worked out the correct track to take it is only a short walk from the road. The walk from the nearest parking spot is much farther. You could drive up the track but I don’t know if the farmer would be happy with that?

When I arrived the place was deserted (well, it was a Saturday evening). Access to the field is via a metal gate. Sheep were in the field and I was surprised when one came running over and butted me. Luckily it wasn’t the one with the horns! I gave it a pat and told him/her that I meant no harm and only wanted to see the stones. He/she seemed happy with this and ran off.

The 3 standing stones are very impressive. Tall, straight and covered in hairy lichen. The cist is equally impressive. It is of good size and has all its sides and its capstone – something you don’t often see. The cist is on a low mound of grasses over small boulders.

The views across the sea towards the islands is fantastic – what a sight. A ferry was making its way to Islay I think? The sun shone, the sky was blue, a gentle breeze and the bleet of sheep. Swifts flew overhead. Sounds good? It was! Now for that long walk back to the car and our final destination. All together now – ‘Mull of Kintyre.............‘

T

Let’s face it.... an area would have to be pretty special – from an archaeological perspective, at least – for this particular ‘Grey Cairn’ (needless to say Scotland has numerous others) to feature as nothing out of the ordinary.... par for the course, so to speak. In retrospect I guess that tells me all I need to know about the relative merits of Strath of Kildonan, a veritable megalithic cornucopia, if ever I did experience one?

Situated upon the lower, south-western slopes of Craig Halligarry (this mini-height featuring rock art and hut circles, no less) the cairn is consequently denied the sweeping, elevated views accorded a significant number of the other dramatis personae in the extended vicinity. Nevertheless the location, overlooking the northern bank of the River Helmsdale with Ben Uarie looming upon the skyline, whilst not breath taking is certainly aesthetically pleasing, albeit in a somewhat archetypal, uncompromising northern Scottish manner.

The monument, although damaged upon the north-eastern arc – one assumes by quarrying – is substantial. According to an Ordnance Survey estimation back in 1976 it “would have been about 17.0m diameter, and, at present, is 1.5m high.” [JM]. Yeah, anywhere else but here Carn Liath would surely be a headline act? As it is.. it represents an understated perch upon which to pause and review; to take stock of the frankly overwhelming volume of treasures to be experienced travelling the A897. To once again see the cairns for the stones.

Is it chambered? The OS didn’t believe so, back in the day. However a couple of stones rising through and above the summit of the cairn suggest otherwise. Let’s say it is, in my opinion, certainly a ‘possible’. There are further uprights standing a little distance to the north-west, perhaps related to what I assume to be a field boundary? Then again could they be associated with the monument? Whatever the truth of the matter Carn Liath is certainly worthy of a stop-over on the way to more spectacularly positioned sites.

Visited 22.7.15

Directions:
To the south of Benderloch village. Alongside a private road.

Now, here’s something you don’t see very often in Scotland, a sign which says ‘Private – no entry’. But that is what it says on the sign at the start of the road. (Perhaps the people who live there are originally from southern England :))

Karen parked at the start of the road whilst I duly ignored the sign and walked up the road. The large stone is located in a field to your right near the house.

There is a fort the other side of the house near the shoreline but I didn’t push my luck that far!
The fort is called Dun Sniachan (NM90323822)

Canmore state:
The stone measures 2.1m in height by 1.2m at the base. Local tradition states the stone once formed part of a circle. Two stones were recorded in 1772. Buried stones are said to be burried 60ft south of the stone.

Visited 22.7.15

Directions:
In the school grounds of Benderloch Primary school. Visible from the minor road to Kiel Crofts

The stone is between the school building and the enclosed play ground – next to a bench. Although the original setting of the stone is long gone at least the stone has been preserved within the school. What a great thing to have in your playground! Obviously you need to be careful when you choose to visit the stone, school hours could be a problem – use a bit of sense!

In the trees behind the school (in the location of a destroyed stone circle) I found a large,prostrate, moss covered, stone inbedded in the ground. It certainly looked old and was the right size and shape to be a stone from a circle – I wonder?

Canmore state:
The stone at the north end of Benderloch village is 1.5m in height and 1.1m at the base. 1975 (I assume the school hadn’t been built at this point?)

The site of a stone circle lies in arable land between loch Selma and Loch Creran. In a hole nearby there are stones of the circle, some broken. The site of the circle is traceable when thw corn begins to turn yellow, the ring of the circle remains green for a longer period of time. RA Smith 1879

The pair of chambered cairns gracing the south-western flank of Creag nan Caorach, the hill rising rather ‘sheepishly’ (assuming my limited gaelic is not even more so) to the east of the small hamlet of Kinbrace, are not among the largest monuments of the genre I’ve had the privilege of visiting over the past decade or so; nevertheless they form yet another vibrant entry in the wondrous canon of prehistoric cairns seemingly tasked by our forebears with escorting the River Helmsdale to the sea. Well, wouldn’t want the river spirits to get lost now, would we? Causes all sorts of problems. I imagine.

As mentioned... the chambered cairns do not crown the near-on 1,000ft summit of Creag nan Caorach, as might have been expected if collective, vainglorious self-aggrandisement had been the motive of their erectors. Oh no. Instead the monuments appear to have been carefully placed to observe the landscape... rather than be observed attempting to subjugate it. That is literally a much more classy outlook upon life and what it means to be human, don’t you think? Inherently so. To be fair it’s not that difficult to hypothesize what ‘event’ might have been the focus of attention here, the gaze of the visitor drawn to the south-west toward the confluence of the River Helmsdale with the Bannock Burn flowing down from the approx north; the perennial meeting and merging of waters.

Anyway, advancing uphill from the unfenced A897 a little south of Kinbrace (note that there is a railway station here should the train be your preferred mode of transport) the traveller must first negotiate a group of hut circles and an associated field system, the former presumably representing the residual footprints of the homes of the people who chose – or perhaps felt compelled – to bury their dead a little above and beyond to the east. So, onward and upward to these former homes of the ancestors of the ancestors, so to speak. All is quiet now upon the bare – dare I say inhospitable? – flank of Creag nan Caorach, where once upon a time voices, mingling with the coarser utterances of other animals, would’ve drifted on the breeze.... or remained inaudible upon the inevitable days of inclemency.

I dare say one such voice, albeit in much more recent times, was that of the ubiquitous A S Henshall who came to see and describe these cairns back in 1963. The western cairn [NC86903094], the best preserved of the pair, is an “Orkney-Cromarty type short, horned cairn with a Camster type chamber”.. rising about “4ft 6 inches above the heather.... It measures 43ft E-W by 46ft N-S and the horns project about 10ft”. The cairn is certainly chambered, part of which is exposed and is in my estimation a fine monument.

A little to the approx east stands its companion [at NC87073094]. Significantly robbed and overgrown with heather it “appears to have had a diameter of about 47ft. Three upright stones, two of them set at right angles, occur near the centre and suggest that the cairn has been chambered.” To be honest I’d go further than Audrey’s tentative notes and concur with the Ordnance Survey people who commented that these orthostats “leave little doubt that it is chambered, though no identifiable pattern is evident” [JM, 1977 and EGC, 1961].

There is more here, firstly in the form of another cairn set further to the approx south-east at NC87263056. Once again it is a substantial stone pile, according to the aforementioned OS people “...8.0m diameter by 0.7m high”. Unfortunately I could not discern any trace of a former chamber. The final monument of the quartet is a grassy cairn at NC86863099. I neglected to take an image of this, for whatever reason... however it apparently measures “15m by 14m by 1.3m high”, again with no visible chamber or cist.

So there you have it. Clearly Creag nan Caorach was deemed to be a very special place back in the day. Although, to keep things in context, it is in very good company with the fabulous (now deforested) Kinbrace Hill cairns a little to the south and the fine Carn Richard chambered cairn to the west. And that’s just for starters...

Eventually it is time to shift attention away from the prehistoric cairns adorning this windswept hill and focus upon the imperceptible abrasive action of water upon rock below. A vision of a landscape that is simultaneously impossibly ancient and absolutely contemporary. I find such a concept difficult to process so, as with the water, perhaps it is best to do as I do and let it just flow over you?

Visited 22.7.15

Directions:
Take the first right (minor road) after crossing the bridge linking Connel with North Connel (over the Falls of Lore). This is the road which leads to Ardchattan Priory (Historic Scotland). The cairn is in a field immediately behind a row of houses.

The rain continued to come down and I tried to work out a way of getting behind the houses that didn’t involve a long walk. In short I couldn’t! However, I think I spotted the cairn in a gap between two houses as a rough grass covered mound.

Canmore state:
A cairn seriously disturbed by stone-robbing and by the construction of a wall which crosses it. It has been further distorted by the dumping of stones from field clearance. It was probably 24m in diameter and its present maximum height is 2.1m.

Visited 22.7.15

Directions:
On the eastern side of the A828 immediately south of Duror (blink and you will miss it!)

There is room to pull over opposite the field where the stone stands. This is near the 30mph sign. Access is via a rusty metal gate and then a second rusty gate (on the left) to get you up close and personal. A short but very muddy walk. There were large puddles next to both gates, not helped by the ever present rain!

This is a magnificent stone, in the middle of a field of sheep. If you happen to be travelling down the A828 (not far from the jaw-dropping beauty of Glen Coe) this is a ‘must see’ stone. I am surprised to see I am the first person to provide field notes? The stone is visible from the road if you prefer.

Canmore state:
One of the most impressive standing stones in Lorn. It measures 3.7m in height and 1.1m by 0.6m at the base, tapering to a point at the top’.

Visited: July 22, 2015

The low hill of Dickmount-Law, situated just a kilometre north of Arbroath on Dickmontlaw Farm, is visible from all around on account of the stand of mature trees that graces its summit cairn. This is polytunnel country, with multiple fields related to Scotland’s soft-fruit industry, some of which you will pass by as you walk to the cairn.

The cairn itself is a large but unremarkable mound, any structure being concealed by rank, tall grasses. A number of roughly circular hollows in the cairn are reminiscent of those produced when trees are uprooted by the wind. In any event, Canmore reports several excavations in the side of the mound, one on its western flank revealing it to be constructed of small stones.

To visit the cairn, take the side road called “Dickmontlaw”, which leads east (left) from the A92, 300 metres south of the tiny community of Marywell. Follow this road uphill, then to the right, for 400 metres—until the metalled surface ends. Walk just a few metres on, and head sharp left along an excellent farm road until you are level with the obvious stand of trees denoting the location of the cairn. From here, a gate on the right gives access to another path, and the cairn is just 70 metres away.

Visited 21.7.15

Directions:
On the western side of the A535, a short distance south of Jodrell Bank, opposite a school.

We parked in the school drive entrance (school was closed) and I carefully crossed the busy road. Unfortunately the field was in crop (wheat) and therefore I was unable to make out any trace of the barrow.

E.H. state:
A bowl barrow 50m south of Jodrell Bank Farm. It is an earthen oval mound 1.3m high by 58m x 40m. In 1977 cremations were exposed during ploughing across the mound.

Visited 21.7.15

Directions:
East of Congleton along minor roads.

The two large upright stones are easy to see from the road and we parked outside the (posh) appropriately named Bridestone House (up for sale if you are interested!) We didn’t park in the lane next to the stones as it gives access to Bridestone Natural Stone suppliers and judging by the amount of mud on the road it sees a lot of use. We didn’t want to risk blocking a lorry etc.

Anyway, I walked up the lane (in the rain) and through the wooden gate. Next to the gate is a prostrate large moss covered stone – is this from the burial chamber? It is certainly large enough to have been?

The site appears to have been restored at some point with one of the large (approx 3 metre) having been cemented back together again. Having said that, the site is certainly impressive and offers fine views west over Congleton and the surrounding low lying area.

I had the place to myself and am glad to report no sign of litter or barking dogs! This is an excellent place to visit and well worth stopping off for when in the area. Pity about the rain!

Visited 21.7.15

Directions:
On the A34 – north of Congleton – can’t miss it!

We parked in the large car park next to the church. From the car park the mound upon which the church is built is very noticeable.

Luckily the church was open and I had a good look around. There are some medieval wall paintings to be seen as well as two worn stone effigies of knights in armor. The leaflet I picked up stated that in the village there is an oak tree which is believed to be 1,200 years old – possibly the oldest in England. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to look for it.

I like an old church and this is a good one.
Well worth stopping off for – particularly given its prehistoric roots.

Two ancient cairns grace the hillside that sweeps down to the River Helmsdale to the south-east of the fine broch at Kilphedir. Not that anyone, save the curious Citizen Cairn’d in possession of OS map, would be aware of this arresting fact .... since they are so obscure and reclusive as to render Howard Hughes a real live wire in comparison. Yeah, Nature has now more-or-less completely embraced her artificial charges, peerlessly camouflaged them within heather to such an extent as to ensure I wander past, oblivious, before retrospectively realising my error.

To be fair it is the sense of location... hard won experience, if you like... which gives the game away and not excellent map work (that’ll be the day), an area of relatively level ground proffering a truly superb panorama of Strath of Kildonan to the approx east, one I accept utterly and without reservation. Hey, the cairns should be here... this is where I’d have put them. And indeed they are.

The better preserved (NC99581867) is – according to field notes of the inevitable Audrey Henshall (1963) – “roughly circular... measuring about 56ft NW-SE by 51ft transversely and 4 or 5ft high”. Several large orthostats strongly suggest the monument was chambered and “orientated NW-SE and entered from the SE.” Not bad at all.

The internal detail of the larger, companion monument located at NC99551870 is less clear, but nonetheless also indicative to me of a chambered cairn. Again according to Audrey it is “about 70ft by 55ft and 3ft high. Parts of a boulder kerb or possibly two concentric kerbs together with several large earthfast slabs, are visible”.

Needless to say visitors should take the opportunity to visit the fine broch looming above to the north-west, not to mention numerous hut circles. My suggestion, nay recommendation, would be to ascend directly to the ancient fortification from the south and subsequently drop in on the cairns on the way back down to the road, emerging near the lodge. However since I had already visited the broch several years previously I instead simply hang out for a while and enjoy the view. There is really only the one owing to the nature of the topography. But suffice to say it is enough.

This large, round cairn has sadly had to suffer the indignity of having a large portion of its western arc removed at some time or other.... leaving it with a footprint perhaps reminiscent of a giant ‘Pac Man’ frozen mid gulp upon this uncompromising hillside. Needless to say the true effect would only be apparent from the air. A Nasca-style monument for the jilted 80’s Atari generation.....

Such damage notwithstanding, the cairn remains architecturally impressive measuring – according to those intrepid Ordnance Survey people (WDJ, 1960 and J M, 1976) – “about 19.5m NW-SE by 18.5m”. What’s more, there is the remains of an arc of kerbing to the east.

As is often the case, however, it is the placement of the monument which impresses this traveller the most. Located upon a low spur above the western bank of the Torrish Burn, the cairn was clearly orientated to overlook the River Helmsdale, the site possessing a wondrous view eastwards and westwards along the strath. Incidentally the river deviates sharply southward at the point where the Torrish Burn adds itself to its seemingly inexorable flow... the thought momentarily occurs that perhaps the tributary is more than capable of – quite literally – punching well above its weight when flash floods visit these hills? Whatever, best not to be around to test the theory when such deluges sweep across the landscape.

Despite the relative proximity to what is, after all, an A-road (honest, it’s the A897) there is a great ‘upland’ vibe here enhanced by distant Ben Uarie keeping an eye on proceedings upon the south-western skyline. That such impressive, yet unassuming stone piles can be found in such easily accessible locations is, for me, truly one of the joys of northern Scotland.

It’s been so long since my last time here I haven’t a clue which way I came from, all I remember is it was across lots of fields and we eventually came at it from the east.
That was the wrong way, approach from the south, much easier, comparatively.
My daughter Phil and me attempted to follow the footpath to it, for there is one, but it is never used and so overgrown as to be invisible. It was too overgrown for my girls soft girly legs, she went back to the car, whilst I battled on. A big machete would be very handy here.
Eventually I came out of the trees and there are the big stones. They are very big, and very white, and with no farm park I was free to clamber up on to the top of them. It was now that I received a phone call asking if we wanted to go out to the Plough for tea, grumbles, and no Trefignath, but ok.
I walked all around looking at the stones from near and far, I scrambled on the stones and crawled underneath them, I had a good look at them close up too, I doubted that they were entirely made of quartz, but on closer inspection it looks like they are.
Imagine if this was next door to Duloe stone circle, quartzite heaven.
It’s generally accepted that they are a fortuitous arrangements of rocks, evidence of an ancient burial remaining unsubstantiated, but I see no reason why the large flat stone could not have been moved into it’s current position, I cant think how else it got where it is.

This place is not on the map, I found it through luck (or not) whilst blue dot thumping on Coflein, the best way I’ve found to flush out new and interesting sites.
I parked to the south and could see my quarry sat atop its rocky Gorsedd, it was no further away than the walk to my mum’n dads house round the corner, 400 yards tops.
But, and the size of the but can not be understated, a sea of Gorse seemed to completely surround the site.
At first I thought Id just get to the outcrop next to it and sit there a while, time was going to constrict my playtime here, sadly. But the rogue in me thought screw it c’mon how hard can it be?
I found a path through the gorse, bramble and bracken.
The path, it is not an actual footpath but rather a critter worn path, I saw some wee ponies earlier perhaps it was them, took me almost right next to the site, only a twelve foot vertical cliff to scale and I’m there.
Arriving at the top was an exhilarating moment, the view was phenomenal, distant Snowdonia wreathed in thick white clouds, the sea is east and west and Holyhead mountain big and white was the northern horizon, and that famous hut circle group somewhere over there (I’m pointing can you see me)
Only three stones remain upright, there no taller than three feet, and they curve, as if describing an arc of the chamber, Coflein say they might be part of a large cist. I also fancied a couple of long stones as curb stones.
But the best thing is the view, sure Holyhead is a bit of an eyesore, after Port Talbot it’s, for me, the worst town in Wales.
Like I said, time was against me, somewhere to go, but like always I tried to go in a straight line back to the car, biiig big mistake, from now on gorse will always be spelt with a small G.
Sign my petition to get it’s name changed to M****r F****r, that’s a bad swear word there.

Although there is nothing here – where the Caen Burn flows down from the rolling hills to subsume itself within the voluminous River Helmsdale’s procession to the sea – in the same jaw-dropping league as the Kinbrace Hill monuments, this quartet of differing long cairns (count ‘em) nevertheless accord my final day exploring the wondrous environs of Strath of Kildonan a fitting climax. Indeed, the view of the more-or-less intact southern monument from high ground to the north-west is way beyond all expectations. And to be fair I can imagine an awful lot... as Han Solo once said in that somewhat obscure film.

My arrival is significantly delayed, the small matter of checking out preceding cairns at Carn Liath, Torrish Burn, Kilphedir and Salscraggie, in linear progression from the west, ensuring it is late afternoon before I finally park opposite an islet within the aforementioned River Helmsdale, a short distance prior to where the water course veers sharply to the south. The first of the long cairns (the western at ND00781783) lies upon a terrace to the immediate north. Sadly this is very much a case of what might have been.... or rather what once was, the monument clearly having been used as a quarry for building stone with nothing, save a trace outline of stone, defining what must have been a truly massive monument. Audrey Henshall [1963] has it at about “135 feet long, 27 feet broad at the W end widening to 50 feet in the E...oriented ESE-WNW”. Still the positioning, overlooking the river, is excellent.

I head approx north-east following a rough path across the flank of the hill, pausing to gawp at the spectacle of the superb southern long cairn lying below. I decide to leave what would appear to be the best to last and carry on to overlook the Caen Burn itself, the northern cairn (ND01251802) clearly visible above its western bank. Although disturbed, there remains a significant volume of curiously reddish/orange stone in situ, albeit with no discernible chamber visible to these eyes. According to Audrey “It lies ENE and WSW and measures about 100ft in length, some 35ft in breadth at the E end and 27ft at the W.” In my opinion the view looking north along the Caen Burn into the hills is excellent – there are apparently numerous hut circles and a souterrain up there – whilst the eastern long cairn can be seen to the north-east upon the lower, near flank of Caen Hill rising above the burn. Guess I’ll have to haul my aching body up there, then? Afraid so. Let’s call it a labour of love.

The Caen Burn is easily forded – or at least was at the time of my visit in late May – whereupon a (thankfully) short climb alongside a dry stone wall brings me to an unlocked gate accessing the long cairn at ND01481815. Like its lower neighbour, the monument hasn’t survived into our age unscathed. Nevertheless it remains a substantial stone pile “oriented NE-SW measuring about 166 feet in length and 25 feet broad at the SW end, widening to about 26 feet in the NE”. Speaking of orientation, both the northern and southern long cairns are visible from here, the angles of attack of the surrounding hills suggestive of riding upon a billowing green seascape. Or at least that might be the case if not for the luxuriant carpet of blue bells.

So... finally... I descend for an audience with the southern long cairn at ND01231776. As mentioned the monument appears almost intact and “orientated E-W appears to be 168ft long, 27ft wide at the W end and 46ft at the E.” The profile is not uniform, the cairn rising gradually from the west to “a height of 7ft” at the eastern extremity. Here some large displaced stones suggest the presence/former presence of a chamber. Well, Audrey Henshall certainly thought so way back in 1963. Hey, to think that was before I was born? A true pioneer lady. The cairn is covered in a thick mantle of moss, this a little puzzling since there is no indication of recent forestry here? Whatever, the happy effect only serves to heighten the sense of a location being somehow frozen in time. Someone call Stephen Hawking. He’ll know what’s what. Top man. Sadly my watch refuses to co-operate with my ‘theory of everything’ (in retrospect perhaps ‘everything’ was a little too ambitious) and I have to move on to once again find somewhere to crash out for the night. But not before determining that a nearby ‘hump’ is actually a Bronze Age round cairn. What a place......