Latest Fieldnotes

Guess it may well be an aphorism to state that the fort occupying the eastern-most extremity of Kildonan Point is well sited. ‘With reference to what’, the traveller might well ask, with some justification? Nevertheless it is difficult to counter that there is indeed an authentically ethereal atmosphere to be enjoyed here upon this rocky crag, the remains of an ancient settlement still encircled – at least for a good part of its enceinte – by the remains of a dry stone wall up to 4m thick (according to the RCAHMS – 1971).

Add some majestic, sweeping coastal views across Kildonan Bay to Ugadale Point to the north, Black Bay (south-west) and, last but certainly not least, eastward across Kilbrannan Sound to the Isle of Arran.... and it will be seen that visually aesthetic gold dust has been sprinkled around here, too.

The promontory fort stands above and a little to the approx east of the great round cairn at Kildonan Point, the substantial stonework protecting the apparent original entrance within the north-eastern flank initially misinterpreted by myself (in mitigation at a distance) as a companion funerary monument. Again according to the RCAHMS the settlement measures “internally 55m from NE to SW by about 64m transversely.” As noted above the defences – at least those resulting from human agency – are not traceable around the full circumference of the fort, the south-eastern arc noticeably lacking in this respect. However since this sector features substantial rocky outcrops falling away directly to the sea, I reckon it’s reasonable to assume that none were ever erected? Yeah, when Nature answers a potential problem so emphatically why elaborate. Why, indeed?

Having said that... the concrete Ordnance Survey trig pillar standing at the summit of the crag resides upon “a low stony mound 4.3m in diameter.” Whether this cartographical aid now surmounts something far older is a rhetorical question pending an unlikely excavation. But it is nonetheless an intriguing thought.

As the afternoon drifts inexorably toward evening I must eventually retrace my steps across the foreshore back to the fabulous dun lying across Kildonan Bay and, subsequently, Kilmartin. Now it’s fair to say Kilmartin Glen receives its fair share of architectural plaudits... and rightly so. However I’ve got my beady eye upon a much lesser known subsidiary site tomorrow... the chambered cairn at Baroile.

Guess I need to come clean and admit I had no intention of visiting Kildonan Point during this latest – well, second – sojourn upon Kintyre. Strange as that may seem in retrospect, given the excellence of the monuments to be found here. Suffice to say there was no master plan. There never is. Yeah, not even a night spent upon the Mull itself was sufficient to fire the relevant synapse in a brain not engaged with the appreciation of copious tea and muesli... and bring a well subsumed recollection of antiquarian typeface upon an OS map bubbling into consciousness.

Not surprisingly, given the site’s obvious architectural and aesthetic quality, the sublimely positioned dun lying immediately across Kildonan Bay was the sole focus of my attention upon finally vacating the equally enthralling Balnabraid kerbed cairn. However as I recline upon the ancient wall top gazing contentedly across to Arran – as you do – something that looks suspiciously like a large stone pile catches my eye to the south, that is a little ‘inland’ from the promontory’s terminal point. Now, given my well documented fondness for such features upon the landscape, annoyance generated by the subsequent confirmation of supposition by memory may seem somewhat paradoxical. Nevertheless I dig deep, drag myself to my feet and set off along water’s edge to go have a look. The going is pretty rough, the grassy shoreline, riven by the infinitely repetitive actions of high tide, eventually merging with rock and, finally, beach enlivened by the skeletal spars of a boat long since past its sell by date.

From here it is but a short meander up a shallow rise to determine that my eyes – not to mention dormant memory – did not deceive me. Yeah this cairn is really something special.... arguably second only to the great Correchrevie should you happen to be contemplating the round cairns of Kintyre. OK the monument has been significantly damaged upon its eastern arc, a threatening mass of industrial strength gorse seemingly determined to mitigate against further loss with a show of unbridled ferocity... however enough stone remains in situ to give a more than convincing impression of overwhelming solidity. The RCAHMS (1971) gave the cairn’s dimensions as “23m in diameter and 3m in height”.... however... “a short stretch of a heavy boulder kerb, still visible on the SW, suggests that it originally had a diameter of about 18.5m”.

As mentioned Nature has now initiated the process of reclaiming this great stone pile, perhaps with a little artificial assistance, if the presence of some delicate white flowers upon the summit is indicative of such? The Mam C would know. In fact the cairn could be said to resemble a rock garden executed in true ‘no-holds-barred’ Scottish style. Fine by me. What’s more the view looking across Kildonan Bay and beyond to the high ground of Arran, the latter now periodically semi-obscured by an advancing cloud base, is excellent, if by definition somewhat muted of colour.

Eventually my attention is drawn to what appears to be a second, shattered cairn located very oddly upon the northern flank of promontory’s end. Investigation duly resolves the apparent conundrum. Hey, it’s not a cairn at all but part of a substantial, dry stone rampart demarcating what was once clearly a pretty powerful promontory fort gracing the apex of Kildonan Point.

It would appear there is to be no rest for the inquisitive.... yeah, no sleep ‘til Kilmartin.

Walked to the Hoarstones from Mitchell’s fold today. From Mitchell’s Fold go up Stapley Hill from one cairn to the next and then down to the wood. The path skirts the wood to the right and then there is a sty to enter the wood at Black Marsh and cut across its bottom corner. Then you come out over a sleeper, ditch bridge into a field and you see another sleeper and sty on your left into the next field, marked permissive path. Then carry along across this field keeping wood close to left. And it’s next field but look to bottom of field on your right, middle way along. You can see it on other side of field from wood as you’re coming along. The ground looks raised and uncleared and you see the stones amongst it.
We then tried to carry on and hook up with Stapley trail back through wood but went wrong and retraced our steps and went back the way we came which is easiest. About 45 mins one way and well worth it. Very doable.

Located a couple of miles south of Kildalloig Bay upon Kintyre’s eastern flank and, incidentally, not far from New Orleans (hey check the map, it’s true) the current denuded nature of this (apparently once very substantial) cairn belies a monument with a far, far more significant pedigree. In fact – seeing as its multi-faceted internal arrangements were found to feature no fewer than ELEVEN (count ‘em) cists – I’d go as far as to say that, in my experience, I reckon this to be a truly unprecedented site. Sadly none of that ridiculously copious funerary detail can now be seen due to protective post excavation backfilling... one assumes upon the conclusion of the 1966 dig, the other excavations having taken place in 1910 and 1913. Sometimes it’s enough to be aware what lies beneath, you know? No need to touch.

Not to mention what previously lay interned within those little stone-slabbed boxes. Yeah, the grave goods... artefacts which Bronze Age locals deemed suitably precious and noteworthy enough to accompany their loved ones (or at the very least, respected ones) into whatever afterlife loomed large in their collective consciousness at the time. According to Canmore these included “a beaker with jet disc-beads and a flint knife, three food-vessels and a cinerary urn.” In addition, as if that fine assemblage of objects infused with inherently intimate human association wasn’t enough, “a bronze razor, probably dating from 1400 to 1000 BC, was found on the site in 1966.” Hmm. Suffice to say the prehistoric providence of this particular stone pile is not in any doubt. As is its ability to transcend millennia.

Furthermore, despite being located at little more than sea level, the placement of the monument within its landscape is excellent. Yeah, set overlooking the Balnabraid Water as it flows down Balnabraid Glen to merge with the southern approach to Kilbrannan Sound, the focus is, and no doubt was always intended to be, seaward.... a grandstand view of fresh water returning back whence it came to the saline, courtesy of the planet’s natural weather cycles. With the enigmatic profile of Ailsa Craig looming upon the south-eastern horizon for good measure. It could be said that the monument’s connection with the Balnabraid Water is definitive since it was erosion caused by the action of the latter that “revealed a cinerary urn in the exposed face of the cairn” in 1910. Well, there you are.

Whether the visitor approaches the site from the north or south a fine aerial view will be obtained from the coastal road as it descends to Corphin Bridge. Parking is available at roadside, a field gate allowing access to the cairn.

Although apparently a shadow of its former self... the funerary cairn at Balnabraid nevertheless casts a long shadow indeed.

You could combine a trip up to these cairns with a visit to Pen-y-Gaer hill fort, but I didn’t fancy the long walk back, so I went back to the car and drove closer and walked from there.
There, being the small dead end lane that runs west/east south of the mountain. I parked the car in an unused and overgrown gateway, so far so good, but then the footpath marked on my map has disappeared, it says the path goes past a farm house called Llethr-ddu, so I trust in the ordnance survey and go that way, despite a complete lack of footpath signs and stiles, I felt a bit trespassery here, but I tuned it out and concentrated more on the scenery. Mostly the scenery consists of The Rivals, ie; Tre’r Ceiri and Mynydd Carnguwch, the loveliest of all Welsh hills.
As I leave the farm house behind me I’m passing along some old walls with frankly massive boulders in them, dismantled dolmens I’m sure.... not.
Getting higher, the hill fort I went to earlier rises above the near horizon, provided by Moel Bronmiod, itself topped with, no, not a cairn but a large Dartmoorish rocky tor, I’d quite like to be up there, but you cant go everywhere at once, though I’ve heard of a man who knows someone who can.
As I get up towards the top the ground gets distinctively more rocky, progress can be quicker and easier but more dangerous, i’m about 9/10ths of the way up and my daughter sends me a text saying were going out for tea with Grandma, I’ve got three and a quarter hours to get home, well screw that I decide, an intense flurry of texts ensue, a bizarre thing to be doing in such a place as this, and problem sorted, they’ll all wait for me to get home. I am the man.

One tenth further on and i’m confronted with two of the best yet badliest? treated hill top cairns I’ve ever had the pleasure to behold.
Some dense twat has built two walls over them, clearly and depressingly out of the cairns themselves.
The big cairn has a wall run right through it, either side of the wall is a canyon where the stones have been stolen.
The smaller cairn has two walls meet right on top of it, making photographing the whole cairn impossible. One side of a wall has a very small amount of cairn, it was this bit I saw first, I thought “hunh?” then looked over the wall and saw much more on the other side, but a wall runs through that as well. All very bad.
The culprit should be chastised, extremely chastised, take a moment, stop reading and think of something horrible we could, nay should do to him, it was bound to be a he, probably American.

But it’s not all bad, despite the intrusions the cairns are still there, large and comforting, and the stone that has been robbed hasn’t gone far.
I decide a walkabout is now due, so I skip lightly across towards the summit, I’ve also decided that getting to the rocky toppest of Gyrn Ddu’s summits, can wait for another time, but just below it is a grassy knoll that would make a good place to get the big cairns with all of Snowdonia behind, plus another cairn is over this way, if it’s not too far I’ll go take a look.
It’s probably about now that I should mention the view from up here, it’s pretty good.
Nope, I cant do it, the view is impeccable, the eyes are glued to the Lleyn peninsula, The Rivals vie for attention among themselves, the over quarried one losing every time. Mynydd Carnguwch, is the sweetest most perfectly shaped hill in the known world, it fits in the vision like something soft and warm in the hand. Wow.
Time to go, I skirt around Gyrn Ddu’s summit until the the other cairn comes into view, it is indeed too far, a quick zoom through the camera and I’m away, stumbling with shaking legs, not looking forward to the frantic drive home, but so glad I took the time to get over to this under achieving part of North Wales.

I was right to be not looking forward to the drive home the A55 has of late been over ridden with cars going no where important, and three road accidents had to be gotten through, who is passing these idiots, any idiot can pass his test, but not anyone can remain incident free for 25 years and still be doing five times as many miles per year. Grumpy!

I parked the car on the drive up to Tyddyn-mawr farm, not as bad as it sounds, there was a load of big black silage bags to hide behind, there was no one around, and the driveway doubles as a bridleway, or so my map says, there are no signs saying so. Besides the fort is only half a mile from here, and I’ve got to walk through the farm to get there, if I see anyone I shall have a word, but I didn’t, so no problem.
In fact I never saw anyone on the hills all day long, but then this is quite out of the way for Snowdonia, if it’s in the national park at all.
After passing through and over several gates i’m out on the hills, I cant see the fort now because of big rocky outcrops to the forts south, so I make for these. From here I had a good look about, far to the south is Tremadog Bay, further west is the Lleyn peninsula, and just below me a fox rushes through the bracken chasing down some lunch. Not bad.
From the rocks it is a short but steep walk up to the fort. Two Buzzards circle above me, screeching at each other, or me.
It was hard going, but eventually I’m at the top, I can see my car far below, despite it’s lack of redness, it looks more than half a mile.
Firstly I go directly to the top, and sit, but i’m plagued by large furry bee like flies, theyre so slow I can knock them out of the sky with my hand, god there’s loads, they’re like flies round, no wait that wont work.
I abandon the summit and take my tour of the defences, at the north end the stony ex wall has got covered in grass, but as I move along the grass is gone and a wide spread of iron age walling, that does not stand at all, moving on.
Far below me I can see the hut circle marked on the map but uncharacteristically I checked Coflein before I left and found it to be Roman, so I didn’t go down, which was good because I couldn’t be arsed.
Next is the fairly obvious entrance, facing west to the next hill along Moel Bronmiod.
Modern walling stands on top of the ancient fallen spread of wall at the southern end of the fort. Also at the far south end of the fort are a few hut circles, or rather circular platforms cut into the hills slope, some have big stones where the entrances are. I only saw three or four, Coflein says there’s a dozen or so.
There are no fortifications on the east side, it is far too steep to storm the fort from here, from below it looks like any tall rocky hill, the big impressive wall faces only west, Tre’r Ceiri, the city of giants is that way.
Moel Y Gest hill fort is visible south east over near Cricceth.
Carn Bentyrch, Carn Fadryn, Carn Boduan are a few other forts seen from here.
Absolutely cracking site with epic views all round.

On your left hand side going west to Kirbuster the Burn of Kirbuster which connects the Loch of Hundland to the Loch of Boardhouse is part of a long narrow field, look down the line of the fence and you can just make out the standing stone in the preceding field. Having seen it on visits to the Kirbuster Fsrm Museum it was good to finally visit the site. As CANMORE mentions, site HY22NE 10 is in a marshy area, don’t go through the damp bits (I tried) but around. The depression in which it sits varies from 2.5m to 3m across. The stone as it stands now is at an angle, the longer side 1.1m the shorter 0.5m and the top 0.6m long with a thickness of 0.25m. Yes there are several big stones along with it in the water-filled depression, but rather than the stone looking ‘modern’ the feeling you get is that it is part of a larger whole (it is another matter as to if the stone be original or planted later). Looking to see if the stone could have been part of a ‘standing stone fence’ all I could find was a few metres away two large stones face down in the ground, one larger than the other. When I turned back to the stone it is evident that at least part of the depression is rimmed, stones peeking out from the side. I do know of the traditional Orkney connection between standing stones and wells/springs, but none appear here on the map

Although there are actually less standing stones here than at the not too distant Lochorodale 2... this monument – in my opinion – fully justifies its numerical primacy on account of its wondrous location overlooking the eponymous loch. And, to be fair, a substantial volume of cairn material remains in situ, together with four heavy slabs forming a chamber to the north-west. OK, a façade would have been nice (assuming one existed as an original feature?); but with a view like that.....

It is possible to park at the entrance to the stony track just south-west of the house at Lochorodale, that is just before the road begins the steep climb to the summit of the glen and Lochorodale 2. Following the track northwards a grassy diversion to the left is soon encountered which will take the inquisitive visitor straight to where he or she wants to be in short order. I, however, conscious of my dodgy route finding in forestry with old OS maps, elect to stick with the primary route. I would recommend this option since the views are better, the track subsequently veering to the left (west) to meet its neighbour below the southern face of a rocky crag.

The track peters out servicing a holiday home – or so it would appear (certainly a good place to rent out for a week or two if you fancy staying somewhere off the beaten track, I’d have thought?) – it being possible to circle around the left hand (western) flank of the crag to reach the monument. This is the approach I take but, in retrospect, I would suggest that ascending the crag directly northwards is the preferred option since this accords a grandstand, sweeping vista of the chambered cairn set in its landscape below.

The Clyde-type chambered long cairn sits to the left of a forestry plantation which partially obscures the onward view across the loch to the north-west; nevertheless I really think the setting is something special. As mentioned the monument appears pretty well defined, according to JG Scott (1952) and – as expected – AS Henshall (1972) the NW-SE facing cairn rising to approx “5ft to 6ft high near the centre”. The chunky chamber stones project “1ft 3ins to 2ft” from the surface of the cairn forming the perfect spot to lie back, take in the glorious view and eat lunch. Yeah, this really is a superb place to simply sit and do nothing for a couple of hours, particularly if the weather is kind. Hey, I even had a bit of a stiff breeze to keep the midges at bay. A very welcome bonus indeed.

So in summary: not an overwhelmingly great chambered cairn, if relative merit is determined solely upon the criterion of quality of archaeology... but, of course, there are many other aspects to take into consideration, are there not? Consequently I reckon this is a classically located site worthy of seeking out for an extended visit.

And that, I guess, is that except to mention that the 1:25K map depicts a cup marked stone nearby at NR656161. The RCAHMS [1971] reckon this is “A cup-marked boulder, 1.7m by 1.1m by 0.5m high, bearing at least fourteen cups.” Didn’t visit myself since the lure of Blasthill was too great. But there you are.

Arriving at the summit of the very minor road ascending Achnabrand Glen (from the B842 to approx north-east) following an afternoon of – it has to be said – sensory overload at Greenland I readily admit to being more than pleasantly surprised at the substantial nature of the chambered cairn located here, a little south of this very steep section of tarmacadam. Just the thing to round off an excellent day upon Kintyre, an opportunity to watch the last rays of the sun sink below the coniferous tree line embraced by the calming presence of this most ancient stone pile, prior to parking up for the night.

OK, Greywether didn’t rate the remains of this Clyde-type chambered long cairn... but then, with cairn material still rising to approx (my) head height, together with several large façade orthostats and a couple of chamber slabs still remaining in situ... I beg to differ. Quite understandably, having searched for many a vague, grassy undulation in southern England, my megalithic standards are somewhat less exacting.

Even during my late May visit the monument is very overgrown with ubiquitous fern obscuring much of the body of the long cairn; nevertheless the remaining southern half of the west-facing façade stands proud of the vegetation according the site a memorable profile... particularly when looking eastwards across the monument down the glen. Ditto the remains of the axial chamber, which, I would assume, was entered from the west through the façade. I’m afraid I could find no trace of the anticipated lateral chamber. Whether this inability was due to the obvious past disruption, the overgrown nature of the monument... or simply the fact that it doesn’t exist... is I guess a moot point.

Having subsequently read Carl’s notes I would say that, bearing in mind the minor nature of the road, a winter visit is probably not recommended unless you have a 4x4... and know how to use it. I could be wrong, but assumption is this route will not be gritted? Hence if, upon struggling up the road, no long cairn is forthcoming, I suggest visitors look for a small rise to the left (south), climb that and the site will (surely?) be seen to be located exactly where it should be.

Furthermore, if time permits, a visit to the excellent companion chambered cairn at Lochorodale 1 is highly recommended.

Even though Anglezarke is my local site I had never given this cairn much thought, assuming it to be synonymous with the site posted here as Pikestones Cairn. Recently however the difference in location between the site of the the Pikestones Cairn & all of the published data on Jepson’s Gate Cairn began to intrigue me, surely all of the sources for the JG Cairn, including the excavation report, couldn’t have it in the wrong place? The published co-ordinates placed Jepson’s Gate Cairn on the south-west side of Hurst Hill, whereas the Pikestones Cairn is on the south. There was only one thing to do and that was to get re-acquainted with the delights of the Anglezarke tufty grass & bogs, soon locating the cairn with it’s still clearly defined kerb very close to the published co-ordinates.

Unlike any of my previous visits it was mercifully dry overhead and the directions are the same as before to get there. We reached the ruins of the Cairn Mude croft and tried to proceed to the top of Stot Hill. Unfortunately the forestry agriculture machinery had been recently turning the track into mud, deep puddles creating flooding everywhere. By the time both drew and dog reached the summit they were covered in mud/stench/trees and in my case soaked from almost falling in.

From the cairn we headed directly north along a better track (I thought this was the previous descent.......wrong!!!) which eventually vanished at a dry stane dyke. We followed the dyke downhill until it ran out becoming an area of bog and high ferns. Actually we had curved round the northern flank of Stot Hill. Tillyching, the hill to the north kept us in the right direction as I was technically lost. However battling on or tripping/falling on we reached the track close to were we had started so no damage done!

Re-visited 11/8/2015.

I don’t know how many times I’ve tried to find this stone but at last it has been found. One of old Fred Cole’s stones it is a superb stone, once part of a circle consisting of 3 stones. Very similar in shape to the nearby Mill of Carden stone. Sadly it met the same fate as it is left at the corner of a field. I think this stone has had a few changes of position but I’m glad it remains in one piece.

Its height is 2.2, breadth 1.4 and width 1.1 coming to a tapered top. Unbelievably, for me, the top of the stone can be seen from the road. Heaven knows how many times I’ve walked past here!!!

Park at the Dunnydeer Hillfort and head west, entering the field after the cottage to the north and follow the wall west. it took a long time to find, hopefully someone might be kind and find the right people to put it back up.

Visited 11/8/2015.

From Lindores head east on the A913 and take the first minor road north conveniently signposted Glenduckie. We parked at the first cottage and proceeded on foot.

Heading north on a track past several buildings we found another track and headed north east by opening a gate. This leads past the large Glenduckie quarry. From here it is a steep walk uphill in a gradual curve, the only difficulty being the squadrons of flies practising their landing techniques. The track eventually stops and leads to path which heads west. Follow this and it leads to the front door of the fort.

A single much damaged rampart surrounds the top of the hill. The entrance on the north east can be clearly seen along with the remains of the defending wall. To the south another gap can be found, maybe an exit/entrance to hut circles on the southern flank.

Once again another superb Fife fort with superb all round views.

Visited 5/7/2015.

Even with 1:25k map clasped in my perspiring palm, compass bearing duly set .... this excellent chambered long cairn proved a real bugger to get to. However – if such an assumption can be based upon the presence of several ‘walking man’ directional posts and a picnic table placed more-or-less adjacent to the monument – it wasn’t always thus. Indeed, guess it must’ve been a mere stroll in the woods once upon a time. Ah, trees; herein lies the fundamental problem when it comes to route finding... to paraphrase Dylan somewhat, time’s constantly a’changing beneath the dark coniferous mantle of Scotland’s forestry plantations.

For identification purposes the chambered cairn assumes the name of a ruined (or so it appeared in passing) dwelling beside a small loch about a click to the south-west; although to be honest it could also have appropriated that of ‘Black Loch’ a similar distance to the north-west. For what it’s worth I prefer the latter title. Anyway, a few miles after leaving Campbeltown heading (east then) north upon the B842 coastal road the farmhouse of Low Smerby is passed (on the right), that is about a mile short of Peninver. Shortly afterward I park up at the entrance to the long access drive of High Smerby upon my left. The arrangement is not ideal, but in my opinion not a problem.

So... advancing along the track, a diversion to the left conveniently bypassing the farm, I enter the forestry and, upon encountering the Smerby Burn, the root source of the nomenclature of numerous local farms suddenly becomes all too apparent. As, incidentally, is the presence of numerous gentlemen engaged in what a rather alarmist sign – think Arnie Schwarzenegger doing the ‘talk to the hand’ scene in Terminator 2 – terms ‘forestry operations’. I decide to force the issue and finding myself completely ignored (what’s new?) carry on my way. Beyond a small quarry the track veers uphill to the right, climbing above the aforementioned Greenland ruin and its water feature before forking to the right in approx a further half mile. The monument stands a similar distance to the east. Seems simple enough? Needless to say it’s not, primarily since it is difficult to see the continuation of the route through the wood for the fallen trees.

Nearing the track’s terminus a grassy path veers to the right, one of the aforementioned directional posts suggesting I’m (finally) nearly there.... only for a further, seemingly impenetrable mass of twisted timber to bar the way. Furthermore, as I try to outflank my wooden nemesis I find myself in real danger of losing my bearings completely unless I retrace my steps best as I can and regroup. Although, to be fair, regrouping with myself is not that onerous an undertaking. Reckoning that I’ve more-or-less fixed my location once more I set about slipping and sliding up and down various muddy inclines in torrential rain until the proverbial ‘one last look’ highlights an improbable picnic table – of all things – set at the edge of a clearing. A hint of stone protrudes from a nearby mound and... sure enough... there it is. Finally. What took us so long to find each other?

Now the miscellaneous post gives the technical info... however the long cairn is so overgrown, wondrously so in terms of vibe, that most of the detail is superfluous this afternoon. Suffice to say that the monument appears to recall that of the excellent, not too distant Blasthill with an axial chamber – albeit a far better one with cap stone eased to one side – and lateral chamber opening upon the western flank. Hey, there’s even tentative evidence for a façade at the northern end. Which brings us to the primary difference betwixt the two long cairns... orientation, Greenland being aligned approx north/south to Blasthill’s east/west. Hmm. Unfortunately forestry clearings are not condusive to sussing out possible reasons for alignments. As noted, however, they can furnish a site with a superlative atmosphere, one such given a nitrous-oxide boost today by fast moving weather fronts of ridiculously violent intensity. Not so much ‘changeable’ as ‘buckle up for a rollercoaster ride’.

As I sit and drink my coffee steam rises from the cairn following one full on assault, the rain front motoring away toward the coast as the sun takes its turn to flood the clearing with golden light, as opposed to precipitation. It is a surreal experience, but, for me, sums up the appeal of this site. A couple of miles – that’s all – from the road... but the walker’s signpost might as well have been pointing to the heavens and stated ‘to the moon’.

Visited 24.7.15

This is a site I had been keen to visit for a number of years. Now I am here. Was it worth the wait? Oh yes!

We parked at the parking area a little further up the hill and I hurried down towards the stone. The stone looks impressive from a distance but it is only when you get up close do you realise how tall this stone actually is.

One thing I did notice about the stone is the row of 9? finger sized holes running down the side of it. Anyone know what they are? Tiny cup marks? Someone drilling into the stone?

The setting of the stone is wonderful. The hills, the loch, islands in the distance – this place has it all.
This is a place I intend to return to one day. Hopefully that day won’t be too far into the future.

***
Whilst I was visiting I noticed an elderly chap on the other side of the road who appeared to have broken down. I went over to see if I could help? It turned out he was an American tourist who had visited the site the day before with his wife but had forgotten his camera. He told his wife he would make a quick solo return trip (with camera) to grab some photos. Unfortunately he succeeded in driving into the ditch and had become stuck! The police had stopped and radioed for a recovery vehicle – that was over two hours ago! I offered him a lift and some water but he said he would wait for the breakdown people. He said he was enjoying the view. I wished him well. I bet his wife wasn’t so happy when he eventually arrived back at the hotel!

Visited 24.7.15

When visiting the very nice town of Ballomory, sorry I mean Tobormory, you can’t help but visit these standing stones. We parked, as before, at the pottery and I headed up the path with Sophie in tow. Dafydd decided to sit this one out.

Where the path ends and becomes a rough track it became increasingly muddy. The last time I visited this track was brilliant white with freshly laid scallop shells. Now it was quite overgrown with most of the shells hidden by grass. It didn’t look like many people had been along here recently. (I noticed when I re-visited the museum on the harbor front that the stones were no longer being promoted)

We climbed up and over the wall via the very rusty steps and straight into a bog-like field. It was very, very wet and very, very muddy. Luckily Sophie had her ever present pink wellies on whilst I attempted to jump from one (relatively) ‘dry spot’ to the next.
At least it wasn’t raining!

We soon squelched our way to the stones and admired the views. Well, I admired the views, Sophie hid behind the stones to try to keep out of the cold wind. There is no change to report on the stones since my last visit. They are still here, keeping watch. Before long it was time to go – time and tide and ferries wait for no man – or woman.

Visited 25.7.15

As Postie says, this is only a minor player in the context of Kilmartin. Almost anywhere else it would get star billing. There are just so many things to see within the Kilmartin area. I have been here twice and only scratched the surface. You would need at least a fortnight to do it justice. Just to add that there are ferns growing in the back of the largest cist. Looks a bit like a mini grotto.Adds to the charm of the site.

Visited 24.7.15

It was a lovely summer’s evening. The low sun shone brightly over these wonderful stones. All was quiet except for birdsong and the occasional passing car in the distance. The stones had a decent covering of ‘hairy lichen’ and the angle of light showed the cup marks in all their glory. It is easy to take rock art for granted in Kilmartin Glen. Something we should never do of course. I hope the stones, their cup marks and secrets are with us for another couple of thousand years. I hope this glen is as beautiful then as it is now. If you have never been, make sure you visit this special place and allow as much time as possible to try to take it all in. Evening and morning visits are best as the place can get busy when the afternoon coaches arrive. Still, this place is big enough to accommodate us all – you can always find a quiet spot amongst these large and mysterious stones.

Visited 25.7.15

Found it! Actually it was fairly easy – just look for the rough grass covered patch / slight mound. Covered in nettles on my visit. The shape of the henge could be made out by following the line of stones sticking out of the grass. The central cist was choked with nettles and brambles. The smaller cist was full of mud. As Postie says, not a great henge, but I am glad I finally got to see it all the same. :)

Visited 25.7.15

This (along with the henge) was another site I didn’t get chance to visit last time. The ground here was even wetter, parts of the field were underwater. It was like walking across a water meadow. However, this is a nice little cairn with several kerb stones still standing. Little else I can add to Postie’s previous comments and observations.

Visited 25.7.15

It was time to leave the simply wonderful Kilmartin Glen but before I do I wanted to visit Ballymeanoch Henge – something I failed to do on my previous visit.

Of course, for those who have been here, you pass the cracking Ballymeanoch standing stones along the way. Yet again I had the place to myself.

The wet weather had left the field very boggy and very wet and muddy underfoot. However, it was well worth a bit of mud on the old boots to get close up and personal with these stones. They are superb. It is hard to believe they have stood guard over this glen for so many years. Long may it continue..........

Last time I was here this stone was missing, any clues to it’s whereabouts?

The deceptively large round cairn surmounting the 413ft summit of Creagach Leac is well worth a look when visiting the superb Blasthill chambered cairn, located below to the north-west... if only to enjoy the ‘aerial’ view, to take the opportunity to observe how the latter was placed within the landscape. To attempt to grasp the ‘bigger picture’, if you like. And I do. Make the attempt, that is.

Despite the relative lack of elevation, the coastal location of this small, craggy hill (apparently the 5,398th tallest peak in Scotland, no less) ensures the canvas painted by Nature – and subsequently adapted, with varying degrees of aesthetic aptitude, by succeeding generations of humankind – is a fine, expansive work of vibrant colours balanced with subtle tonal nuances. Or something like that. Yeah, the sweeping vista looking westward toward The Mull of Kintyre is really quite something to behold, the azure sky of early afternoon now supplanted by the advancing vanguard of the next sequential weather front, a billowing mass of low cloud smothering the horizon. The thought occurs: how ironic is it that most visitors – myself included – probably first became aware of the existence of this sublime little corner of lowland Scotland through something so utterly devoid of beauty and artistic merit as McCartney’s dire ditty? Besides, I understand this was always MacDonald territory...

With such an outlook is it easy to become consumed with speculative ‘stuff’ and forget that this grassy hill top is actually a Bronze Age cairn. Quite a big one, too, the RCAHMS (visiting way back in 1965, admittedly) recording that it “measures 13.5m in diameter by 0.84m in maximum height”. In mitigation, however, the monument is so grassed over that it is necessary for me to wander around a bit, checking out the differing profiles, before I’m satisfied that the commission people weren’t pulling a fast one back then. Needless to say they were not.

I guess the final thing to note – OK, penultimate, since there are a couple of suspiciously artificial looking mounds upon the western flank of Creagach Leac encountered on the way back to the car – is the shimmering, seemingly other-worldly presence of Ailsa Craig looming upon the southern-eastern horizon to the left of Sanda Island and the diminutive Sheep Island .... a vision conjuring up images of La Morte d’Arthur... with himself being conveyed across misty waters toward the Isle of Avalon.

Yeah, this is a good spot alright. If a little windy. I decide to seek out a wild camp upon the Mull itself tonight. Hopefully said wind will ensure there is no ‘mist rolling in from the sea’....

04/08/2015 – Seeing the photos on TMA of this circle a few months back left such an impression on me. I knew that given the first chance I would try to make my way here to see the stones for myself. If you have access to a car getting there is no problem but it’s not too bad by bus either. There is a bus that runs to Ballynoe but it’s not that frequent. We instead took the 17A bus from Newcastle to Downpatrick. We got off at Ballydugan crossroads on the A25. A couple of miles walk on quietish country roads and we made it to the signposted path to Ballynoe stone circle. The overgrown path off the road to the circle is really lovely and at this time of year it felt like walking through a gateway to another realm. After a few minutes we reached the circle. To folk that have already been I’m sure it will come as no surprise to read that I found Ballynoe stone circle to be as wonderful as I had hoped. A fantastic circle of stones surrounding a cairn with its own kerb. Some lovely outliers as well. Lots to look at and a great location. We sat just outside the circle to have our sandwiches. Just looking across to the stones and the landscape beyond. A perfect few hours spent doing not much of nothing.

03/08/2015 – After visiting the cairns on Slieve Donard it was nice to walk the quiet ground on Slieve Commedagh. Just us and the hill. A small cairn is situated on the summit. Not much to look at maybe but the location and vibe/feeling was just wonderful. Lovely views all round. My sort of place.