Castlerigg forum 26 room
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Disregard that last bit about crayons and paper. I have been informed that it's a practice that is now frowned upon beause it can cause damage to the microstructure.
Good digital photography is the solution.
I remember 4W's useful hint of rubbing with grass. I suppose this would now be a no no because it involves rubbing the carvings.
Is this a plot by the manufacturers of digital cameras?
Wanna buy some crayons?

Grass is great on hard rock, but still really only ever a last resort.

Water on horizontal carvings is king.

Dunno what to do on vertical ones. If they're good then strong side lighting is cool. Do it at night with a good lamp. For poor quality, worn ones you're basically shagged.

Much sadness .....