Lots of interesting posts here.

I've never been myself, and would very much like to but have a feeling that the current arrangements (even an out of hours visit inside the fence) would leave me disappointed. I don't like busy places and hordes of people much, and I don't want to feel disappointed by what must be one of the most astonishing prehistoric sites anywhere on the planet. So I put it off in favour of visiting lonely, battered sites on windwept hills that don't get the coachloads.

Sooner or later I must make the effort though.