I don’t think you’ll find much disagreement with your sentiments about Stonehenge goffic.
This is something that’s worth investigating though. I went down last year after a long absence from the place and arrived in the early evening after the visitors had left. However there were a couple of people wandering around the stones and I found out from someone else that is possible to get some kind of pass from EH that allows you access to the site for an hour either side of the tourist opening times (for a suitable fee I should imagine). I may have got that wrong as I haven’t got round to following it up, but I think Pete G did that to get the photo’s for his Stonehenge screensaver.

An afterhours TMA meet inside the stones anybody?
;-)

-Chris