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Hi Idwal,
What you can do will depend on the camera your using.
I have a digital SLR and a seperate flash and have found the best way to bring out any surface texture is to use the flash an off-camera on a seperate Tripod.
What I do is to set the exposure level and F-stop so the picture is as dark as possible (without the flash), which on my camera/lens/flash setup is about 1/200th @ f22.
By placing the flash at an angle to the surface you are photographing (rather than face on like the camera), the flash will pick out the highlights of the surface but leave any 'valleys' and 'troughs' in darkeness.
I also use a remote flash transmitter so that I can experiment with different flash positions, angles and exposures to get the best pictures.
Well I hope that was clear enough

:o)

Scubi

Can't argue with any of that Scubi.

It does mean you need a camera with the capability for such photo-faffing, with the remote flash jiggery-pokery. I think it's worth flagging up that from what I've heard, infra red or radio flash remotes are much more reliable than those optical preflash things. I've heard a couple of people complain about the poor synchronisation on those.

Mind, you can get similar results at a lower cost. If you've not got a dslr, most digital compacts have a tripod thread, a manual exposure option and a self timer. Add a tripod and a torch or preferably a separate flashgun, then you've got all you need so long as you're prepared to go photographing the carvings at night.

Set the camera on the tripod, choose the longest exposure you can, with the narrowest apeture, and set it to self timer mode. Then when you've hit the button, wave the torch and/or manually fire the flash gun from the side.

I think that with uneven carved surfaces, this can get better results than a single remote side flash, as multiple flashes. from different distances and directions, can bring out all of the contours of the rock. Waving a torch is a bit more touch and go, but hey, if it's digital, you just delete and try again until you get a decent shot.

And, you know, it might be mildly heretical to suggest it, but just waiting for the right time of day can pay supreme dividends:
http://www.megalithomania.com/show/image/7513/Rathgeran+Lower.htm
If the light isn't right the first time you visit the stone, have a look around to try and figure out the optimum angle for the light, and try and get back there at the right time. If nowt else, it's a good excuse to go back :)

Hope you get some joy with it all Idwal. I'm looking forward to seeing pics of some of these stones. And I really know what you mean about the red painted ones. I saw some in Denmark and it just looks wrong.