Hi there. I'm on a very slow connection, so apologies if someone else has already suggested this.

How about hitch-hiking there? We did it in '95 and found the local people to be very friendly. On the way back we were running late for the ferry, and this really nice (posh) bloke raced us across the island in his Landrover Discovery, taking some sort of short-cut so that we wouldn't miss it.

Kammer x