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Cairnsmore of Fleet (Cairn(s))

Cairnsmore of Fleet has two summits, and there are (admittedly dilapidated) cairns on both. It's very dramatic landscape though so I guess that doesn't really matter.
In the side of this mountain, facing Dromore station, we believe there is a cave of incredible dimensions, which is said to have been at one time the safe retreat of the gipsy king and robber Billy Marshall, and his lawless followers, and the hiding-place of their ill-gotten spoil. In Blackwood's Magazine we find the following amusing anecdote of Billy Marshall and this cave, stated to have been derived from "Black Matthew Marshall," grandson of the said chieftain: -

"Marshall's gang had long held posession of a large cave or cavern in the high grounds of Cairnsmore, in Galloway, where they usually deposited their plunder and sometimes resided secure from the officers of the law, as no one durst venture to molest the tribe in that retired subterraneous situation. It happened that two Highland pipers, strangers to the country, were travelling that way, and falling in by chance with this cave, they entered it to shelter themselves from the weather, and resolved to rest there during the night. They found pretty good quarters, but observed some very suspicious furniture in the cave, which indicated the profession and character of its absent inhabitants. They had not remained long till they were alarmed by the voices of a numerous band advancing to its entrance. The pipers expected nothing but death from the ruthless gipsies. One of them, however, being a man of some presence of mind, called to his neighbour instantly to fill his bags (doing the same himself), and to strike up a pibroch with all his might and main. Both pipes accordingly at once commenced a most tremendous onset, the cave with all its echoes pealing back the 'Pibroch of Donuil Dhu' or such like. At this very unexpected and terrific reception - the yelling of the bagpipes, issuing from the bowels of the earth, just at the moment the gipsies entered the cave - Billy Marshall, with all his band, precipitately fled in the greatest consternation, and from that night never again would go near their favourite haunt, believing that the blast they had heard proceeded from the devil or some of his agents. The pipers next morning prosecuted their journey in safety, carrying with them the spolia opima of the redoubted Billy and the clan Marshall."

There are three mountains in the Stewartry named Cairnsmore, - the old rhyme
"There's Cairnsmore of Fleet, and Cairnsmore o' Dee,
And Cairnsmore of Carsphairn, the highest o' the three."
being, doubtless, familiar to most of our readers.
In 'Rambles in Galloway' by Malcolm McLachlan Harper (1876).


Also - ..amongst their wild rocks are pieces of beautiful spar found, termed by the country people Cairns-moor diamonds.

and elsewhere, that Tradition says, that no human eyes ever beheld the back side, or farthest extremity of this cave [the Co' O' Caerclaugh]; that a dog once went in at its mouth and came out at the door o' Cairnsmoor, a place nearly ten miles from it; and when the tyke did come out he was found to be all sung (singed), as if he had passed through some fire ordeal or other.

(from the amusing and highly recommendable Scottish Gallovidian Encyclopedia, by John MacTaggart, 1824)
Rhiannon Posted by Rhiannon
4th November 2010ce

The Strontoiller Group

As the weather and season favoured we came amongst pleasant corn fields on the farm of Sron- t-Soillear. [..] Before coming to the house a great circle was seen made of boulder stones, as all those of this district are. The stones are doubled irregularly on the west side. In Aberdeen and Kincardine the custom is to lay a great stone on the southerly side. [..] This circle, which remains entire, is 60 feet in diameter, a very favourite size, and one that seems to have been chosen for a reason. We saw it lonely among hay, itself enough to give interest to the whole valley even had the sun been absent.

A couple of fields off, after passing along graceful mounds and good grass, was seen Diarmid's pillar (Clach Dhiarmaid or Carrach Dhiarmaid). And now we were in the very midst of a land of legends. No story is more persistently told than the story of Diarmid; no story has the places connected with every transaction more minutely give; but, unfortunately, some half dozen places claim the originals. [..]

[.. When Diarmid] was dying of his wound and nothing but fresh water could help him, Fingal pretended to bring some, but always spilt it, and Diarmid died. The account we got at Lochnell was that the magic water must be brought in the hands of the most beautiful women, to make the cure certain; but the ladies could not manage to bring any - the way was long and rough and the day was hot, so that before they arrived their hands were empty.

[..] Here at Lochnell is a pillar called after him and a grave beside it. The pillar is about 12 feet high, rough, and seems as if squared artificially. The grave or small stone circle has twelve stones - boulders. None of the farmers cared much for Diarmid, since all were strangers [newcomers]; but when some persons lately were looking for a stone kist in this place which is called his grave, a poor woman going by said, in great anxiety, "Oh, oh, they are lifting Diarmid." He is not forgotten yet.

There are many names here connected with the great boar hunt [..] the farm next the pillar is Tor an Tuirc - the boar's hill. A shepherd coming down the hill and asking for sheep was told in our hearing to take them up Ben Gulbain; so here is the classic name in common use. Up this hill is a well called Tobair nam bas toll - the well of the empty palms. This is a memory of the hands coming down dry to poor Diarmid. On the slope is Gleann nam Fuath - the glen of spirits. Fuath, in the singular, also means hate or spite, and Gleann na Fuath would be the glen of spite, referring to Finn's conduct here: his proverbial nobleness did not shine at the death of Diarmid.

[..] It was thought well to walk up from the more interesting pillar of Diarmid to a knoll on the side of the hill, a place called Cleidh-na-h-annait. It is an old burial ground, walled round, and remarkable for having two small cairns in it, as if it were a meeting of heathen and Christian habits [..].
From 'Loch Etive and the Sons of Uisnach' by Robert Angus Smith (1879).
Rhiannon Posted by Rhiannon
31st October 2010ce

Gortaloughan (Bullaun Stone)

Possibly lost now, but maybe it's there just under the surface waiting to be rediscovered, full of moss and dirt, waiting to twist your ankle?
Here (Fig. 19) is a representation of a Bullan situated, and almost buried, in the centre of a low earthen mound upon the northern side of Loch Drumgay. The material is red sandstone - diameter of basin, one ft. three in.; depth, eleven in. This mound has all the appearance of [a] pagan site. The spot is considered very sacred, though far apart from church or cemetry; and the usage is, that after the patient or pilgrim has prayed and laved, the rag used in applying the water to the eye or eyes must be hung upon one of the surrounding white-thorns. At the time of my visit, in December, 1874, several such tattered offerings yet remained, showing that the place had been still recently resorted to for cures.
On Certain Markings on Rocks, Pillar-Stones, and Other Monuments, Observed Chiefly in the County Fermanagh
W. F. Wakeman
The Journal of the Royal Historical and Archaeological Association of Ireland
Fourth Series, Vol. 3, No. 23 (Jul., 1875), pp. 445-474
Rhiannon Posted by Rhiannon
27th October 2010ce

Aghanaglack (Court Tomb)

A strange folklore snippet from 'Excavation of a Horned Cairn at Aghanaglack, Co. Fermanagh' by O. Davies, in The Journal of the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland (March 1939):
The monument of Aghanaglack, though marked on the Ordnance Survey and alluded to by Wakeman, was first brought to the notice of the scientific world by Lady Dorothy Lowry-Corry [.. and] it is said to have been partially opened by Plunkett, though no account was published. I heard tales also of digging by local people, who were scared by the appearance of an enormous cat.
Rhiannon Posted by Rhiannon
27th October 2010ce

The Hole Stone (Holed Stone)

In December, 1927, Mr. Wm. McIlroy, owner of the farm on the edge of which stands this remarkable monument, had occasion to widen an entrance to one of his fields, and in doing so had to remove a protruding stone. He found it to be one of the top stones of souterrain, of which there were two chambers, with the passage of one or more others, blocked up. The souterrain presented no unusual features, being built in the ordinary manner with the side walls of the chambers corbelled inwards, narrowing towards the top, and kept in their position by the usual long stone slabs laid horizontally across, forming the roof [...]

The question arises, why did the builders not utilise the Hole Stone? Within a couple of hundred yards of it on either side are two souterrains with a hundred or more of these long stones used in the roofs. Here was a suitable stone immediately to hand, and yet they would not disturb it.

I can think of no prehistoric monument of whose written history we know nothing the use and purpose of which have been so well preserved by inviolable tradition as the Hole Stone. From times long prehistoric a ring was regarded as part of the ceremony of Arrhae or betrothal prior to the marriage ceremony itself. To this day, through all the changes of race and peoples that have occurred in County Antrim, particularly South Antrim, the tradition that the Holestone is a betrothal, if not a marriage token remains unbroken, and couples from all the district round still plight their troths by clasping fingers through the ring or hole in this stone. Here then appears the probability that the souterrain builders refrained from using the Hole Stone, because it was sacred in their pagan religion, if not actually a deity.
Well if you say so. From some 'Tentative Deductions' about the stone in The Irish Naturalists' Journal, Vol. 3, No. 5 (Sep., 1930) by HC Lawlor.
Rhiannon Posted by Rhiannon
27th October 2010ce

Tullochgorum cairn (Clava Cairn)

In the shire of Inverness and parish of Ennerallen ther is an old ston-monument called the chappell of Tilligorum, alias, Chappell maakmulach, which is full of graves, and was within the memorie of his (my informer's) father (who is a man of nintie six or ninetie seaven years) an ordinary place of buriall at least for poor people, and continues to be at this day for children who die without baptisme & for strangers.
From a letter to John Aubrey from James Garden, dated March 1693. Quoted in 'The occult laboratory: magic, science, and second sight in late seventeenth-century Scotland', by Michael Hunter and Robert Kirk (2007).

I think this is probably the right place, because elsewhere a 'female brownie', with a name suspiciously like maakmullach, is mentioned - for example in Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border (1803), Sir Walter Scott says

"... that of Tullochgorm, by May Moulach, a female figure, whose left hand and arm were covered with hair .. [was] a familiar attendant upon the clan Grant."

and Thomas Crofton Croker, in 'Fairy Legends and Traditions of the South of Ireland' (1828) says:
Formerly ever family of consequence had its Brownie, but now they have become more rare. The two last that were known in the Highlands belonged to the ancient family of Tullochgorm in Strathspey: they were a man and his wife. The man, of a droll and merry disposition, often made game of people; he was particularly fond of pelting those who passed by with lumps of earth, whence he received the name of Brownie-clod. However, with all his good humour, he was rather simple, and was tricked by those whom he himself intended to trick. The best instance is an agreement which he was foolish enough to make with the servants of Tullochgorm, and by which he engaged himself to thrash as much corn as two men could do in the whole winter; for this he was to receive an old coat and a Kilmarnock cap, to which he seemed to have taken a great fancy. While the servants lay down in the straw and idled away their time, poor Brownie thrashed without ceasing: in short, before the agreement was completed, the men, out of gratitude and compassion, put the coat and cap into a corn measure in the barn. He instantly left off work, and said contemptuously, that as they had been simple enought to give him the coat and cap before the end of his task, he would take good care, and not thrash a single sheaf more.

His wife, on the contrary, instead of being the sport of the maids with whom she worked, was a sort of mistress among them. She was seldom on good terms with them, on account of the fidelity with which she acquainted her master with every neglect of their duty. She had a profusion of hair on her head, whence she was called hairy Mag (Maug vuluchd). She was an honest and able housekeeper, and particularly clever in waiting at table. The care with which she invisibly set out the table was a most entertaining sight to strangers; the thing asked for came as if by magic, and placed itself on the table with the greatest speed and nicety: she had no equal in the whole country for cleanliness and attention.
Rhiannon Posted by Rhiannon
25th October 2010ce

Knockdolian (Cairn(s))

I can't find a story for the hill of Knockdolian itself, but I was here in the summer, and it's the most stupendous landmark, looking just like the nearby giant limpet-shaped island of Ailsa Craig from some angles. I liked the hill a lot and I imagine the views from the top would be marvellous. It's topped by a 'grass covered cairn .. composed of large and small stones, with rock outcrop protruding in places.. 2m high.. a few large kerb stones are visible', according to the info on Coflein. But here's some local stoney folklore:
An old family once lived in a house called Knockdolion, which stood on the banks of the Water of Girvan in Ayrshire. There was a black stone at the end of the house, and a mermaid used to come and sit on it, combing her hair and singing for hours on end. The lady of the house could not get her baby to sleep because of the loud singing of the mermaid, so she told her men-servants to break up the stone. This they did, and when the mermaid came on the night that followed she found no stone to sit upon. She at once flew into a rage, and cried to the lady of the house:-

Ye may think on your cradle-
I think on my stane;
There will ne'er be an heir
To Knockdolian again.

Not long after this the baby died. He was the only child in the house and when his father and mother died the family became extinct.
A harsh punishment but you mustn't go messing with stones.

From 'Wonder Tales from Scottish Myth and Legend' by Donald Alexander Mackenzie (1917).
Rhiannon Posted by Rhiannon
24th October 2010ce

Craigie (Hillfort)

Canmore describes how there was a fort covering the summit of this hill - only the south side is easily approached because the other sides are so steep. It's just over 200m NNE of the parish church, where there was once a stone:
A large stone, popularly called the "Witches' Stone," stood upright, near the church, in a field on Lodge-house farm.* The tradition is that a witch flying with it, to demolish Craigie Kirk, her apron strings gave way, and it fell down on the spot which it afterwards occupied. It was in all probability a druidical remain; probably a rocking-stone. It stood upon three stones, so high that a man could crawl under. It was destroyed in 1819, to build houses. The farmer's wife, it is said, took some antipathy to it, and would not give her husband rest until he consented to have it removed. A person of the name of Jamieson, and an assistant, were employed to blast it, which was accordingly done. When broken up, it filled twenty-four carts. Such was the feeling of sacrilege occasiioned by the removal of the stone, that it was observed the farmer's wife became blind, and continued so for eight years, when she died. Jamieson, who blasted it, never did well afterwards. He drank and went to ruin.
Further warning not to Mess With Stones.

*Now called Lodgebush, according to the Canmore record.

Also, the source of this ('History of the County of Ayr' by James Paterson, 1847) next says:During the era of smuggling, Craigie hills are known to have been the depository of a large share of the contraband goods landed at Troon and other parts of the coast. The broken nature of the crags afforded many secure places of secrecy. The old worthies who took part in this exciting trade have scarcely yet all died out.
Rhiannon Posted by Rhiannon
24th October 2010ce

Reyfad (Cup and Ring Marks / Rock Art)

This page in 'Traces of the Elder Faiths of Ireland' by W G Wood-Martin (1902) seems to show the same cross and base as Tiompan's picture from Boho churchyard (about 500yds from the rock carvings). The book says: Men are reported to resort to this stone in cases where they have no children after marriage. Rhiannon Posted by Rhiannon
23rd October 2010ce

The Witches' Stone (Bullaun Stone)

"The Witches' stone," near Antrim Round Tower, from its name evidently originally a cursing site, is a rock bullan. The tower, according to current tradition, was erected by a "hag" who, when it was finished, as the readiest way of descending, took a flying leap and alighted on this stone, situated about 120 yards from the base of the structure. She stumbled - little wonder - on landing, and struck the rock with one elbow and one knee, which accounts for the cup-like depressions seen in the illustration. These, as is usual, are stated never to be without water. The largest cavity is 15 inches long, 12 inches wide and 9 inches deep; the smaller depression is 6 inches wide by 3 inches in depth. The rock itself is 6 feet long by about 4 1/2 feet broad. It lay originally by the side of a brook, but many years ago the stream was diverted, a wall was built between it and the stream, and the enclosed area converted into a garden.
From 'Traces of the Elder Faiths of Ireland' by W G Wood-Martin (1902).
Rhiannon Posted by Rhiannon
23rd October 2010ce
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