Kammer

We visited the Tibblestone on 4th August 2002, on our way back to Wales after a two week holiday. That day we had squeezed in visits to five other sites in the Cotswolds, despite having not started until lunchtime. Basically we were knackered, and there were still two hours of driving left before we could sleep (except for William who was already asleep).

When we found the Tibblestone I thought it looked a bit lost in it’s surroundings. It’s situated right next to an Esso petrol station with the access road to the petrol station running on the other side of it. In other words, it shares an island of grass with the big Esso sign that has the petrol prices on it.

Across the road is the Teddington Hands pub, so perhaps next time we’re in the area we’ll pay that a visit, and add something here under ‘facilities’.

We visited this stone, and it’s neighbour, in August 1997 in scorching weather. At both sites we were plagued by savage horseflies, that made the visit less relaxing than we’d hoped for.

The cup marked stone is the first of the two that you get to coming from Kinloch, and it’s on the left-hand side of the road under some tress.

The RCAHMS database has this to say about this site:

“A large, earth-fast boulder 5ft long as far as is exposed and 3ft 10ins broad, bearing on the upper surface 18 cup marks of various depths of which the most distinct, 3ins in diameter and 1in deep, is towards the N. The whole length of the stone is not visible but the markings do not seem to extend to the covered portion.”

I think it was the unusually hot weather that brought the hungry horseflies out, so you’ll probably be alright if you visit when the weather is more Scottish.

We visited this stone (and it’s neighbour) in August 1997 and were attacked by horseflies as soon as we got there. It was like something out a B-movie. We were on my motorbike, so we ended up keeping all our gear on to avoid getting bitten. It was stupidly hot though, so stomping around the heather with our leathers and crash helmets on, we were boiling.

The stone is on the left-hand side of the road coming from Kinloch, and it’s not too tricky to find.

Here’s what the RCAHMS database has to say about the stone:

“An incised stone, 1.9m long and 0.2m deep, found during field investigation. It lies N-S and measures 0.9m across at the N end, tapering to 0.5m at the S.”

“The marks incised upon this stone bear no relationship to known Pictish or Early Christian symbols; they form no cohesive pattern or identifiable shapes.”

Strangely, no mention of horse flies on the database.

We visited Orkney in July 1997, and made straight for Stennes and Brodgar when we arrived. I was immensely moved by Stennes, which must have once been the most significant megalithic site on Orkney, and still is the most beautiful. The vibes the place gave off were only comparable to Calanais on Lewis.

I proposed to Louise at Stennes, because it seemed like the right place to do it. Five years on I want to go back there and see the stones again. Perhaps we’ll make it soon, with our son William and our, as yet, un-born child [Alfie].

I can’t believe how few people have posted information to this part of the Web site. If you’re considering a trip to Orkney, I can say with all honesty that, for me at least, Stennes justified the trip in itself.

Visited 4th August 2002: Not a very magical site, or it certainly wasn’t when we visited. Still, if you like your megaliths to be within walking distance of an ice-cream van, then you’ll love Nympsfield.

We visited on 4th August 2002, and had trouble finding the stone because it was just over the edge of our map!

When we got there we parked at the gate near the stone, under the watchful gaze of a police officer wearing fluorescents. He was directing traffic to some sort of equestrian show on the other side of the road. We half expected to be arrested for trespass, or climbing over a gate without due care and attention, but rather disappointingly he just stood there looking bored.

I don’t think there is a footpath to the stone, but I guess we have the ‘right to roam’ there. I’ll have to read up on this and find out how the Law stands on this sort of thing.

Visited 4th August 2002: When we pulled up at the recommended footpath to Belas Knap (as signposted) it was threatening rain and the light was fading. The accounts posted to this site of treacherous walks to the barrow made us think twice about taking the approved route (Louise is 7 months pregnant, and William is only three).

From the Landranger map we figured that there was an easier footpath to the barrow, so we drove round to the other side. This didn’t take long. Towards the end of this detour we passed some farm buildings, then followed an un-made track to the point where the footpath to Belas Knap starts and the track itself begins to narrow. There are no signs to say that this is a private track, and from the Landranger we inferred that the track is a public right of way.

The footpath started at a point where there is enough space to park one or two cars on the verge without blocking the track, so we parked up and walked from there. Apart from the rain, this worked out really well because the footpath is straight and level. I’d recommend this route to anyone who might have difficulties with the gradient on the approved route.

Sorry that these directions are a bit vague, but I don’t have the map with me to refer back to. If you can get hold of a map, you’ll be able to see where we went (the footpath we took is straight, the other is windy and goes through a forest).

Dolgamfa (pronounced doll-gam-va) is a small site about half a mile to the west of Ysbytty Cynfyn on the other side of the Rheidol Gorge.

The site is usually described (by the learn-ed) as a kerb or ring cairn, and is similar to the Hirnant just up the road.

At Dolgamfa the grading of the stones is very marked. The taller stones may be aligned with another site or celestial object, but if this is the case I can’t identify it. I wonder whether the stones in the circle were intended to be visible rather than buried under the cairn?

You can get to the circle from Ysbytty Cynfyn by crossing over Parson’s Bridge. You can also walk in from the village of Ystumtuen. Both routes are relatively short as the crow flies, but from Ysbytty Cynfyn you have to walk down into the gorge then back up again, which is a bit of a climb.

The footpath is well marked coming from both directions, but the Dolgamfa Circle itself isn’t marked on the footpath signs where they meet the road, so you may find a map re-assuring. Parking is not a problem whichever route you choose, and it might even be possible to get the bus from Aberystwyth if you’re cunning.

Visited 4th August 2002: Windmill Tump (aka Rodmaron Long Barrow) isn’t sign-posted, so you’ll probably need an Ordnance Survey Map to find it. This Neolithic long barrow is south of road between Rodmarton and Cherington.

You can park in a lay-by near the gate (ST934975), then you’ll have to climb over the gate or squeeze through the gap (if you’re thin) to get into the field. From the road there is no signage, but I’ve checked this out with Gloucestershire County Council, and according to them there is public access to the site.

You can clearly see the barrow from the gate, with it’s own fence surrounding it in the field. The path along the side of the field is very well kept and follows the hedge (unmarked on the Landranger) almost all the way to the barrow. There’s one more gate (this time not locked) then you’re there.

Apparently the barrow was crudely excavated in the 19th Century, and the remains of 10 adults and 3 children were found. You can still see the exploratory ditches that were dug.

The barrow has a false entrance and two unusual porthole entrances. I could only find one of these portholes on the north side [or at least that’s what I thought it was], presumably because most of the grass on the barrow is uncut. From photos I’ve seen of the other porthole, it’s quite small.

The chamber that I found is really obvious, and here you can peer in under a very low capstone. My three year old son William could probably have got into the chamber, but I was worried we might not get him out!

The barrow feels remarkably secluded, even though the walk to the road is less than half a mile. Having gone there expecting nothing very special, I was pleasantly surprised. Well worth a visit!