GLADMAN

Mid Wales is full of hidden gems waiting to be discovered by the curious traveller prepared to do a touch of homework before venturing forth... Yeah, I know, you’re right... homework is not exactly The Citizen Cairn’s forte, either... however when intriguing reminders of who we once were are not even noted upon OS mapping, one has to bite the bullet, so to speak. Or miss out upon some real treasures.

The small, unassuming grouping of Bronze Age cairns crowning the southern flank of Craig y Lluest, the rocky eminence overlooking the head of Cwm Ystwyth – and in cahoots with Esgair Elan, forming the jaws of a forbidding entrance ‘portal’ to the valley – is very much a case in point. Simply put, one would have no idea it was here at all from a perusal of the map... certainly not from the roadside below.

OK, none of the cairns located up here is anywhere near the scale of the superb monument gracing Glan Fedwen to the immediate east; nor even those crowning Cistfaen overlooking the Afon Ystwyth’s birthplace. And yet... venture a little further to the west and the visitor is accorded – in my long experience – one of the finest views Mid Wales has to offer. Worth a look.

Located above the Afon Bran, a little way south of Cynghordy, this obscure defensive enclosure appeared – from a quick perusal of the map – to represent the remains of a promontory fort. However, upon arrival, it became apparent that there is more here than initially meets the eye....

Yeah, sure enough, the visitor is confronted by powerful banks covering the northern aspect, these curving around to the west. However, this is no highly defensive promontory, meaning additional earthworks – not immediately apparent – would have been required to the southwest.

Consequently, The Citizen Cairn went walkabout to discover what appeared to be the remains of said southern defences some way downhill. Now whether what I found are actually of prehistoric origin is perhaps open to interpretation.. just saying I believe such a conclusion is supported by the evidence on the ground. See what you think? Whatever, it is a wondrous, tranquil spot to hang out for a while, the northern earthworks more than enough for any interested punter.

Incidentally, the map indicates an additional, smaller enclosure some way to the north. I did not visit – since I was intent upon an audience with the Tri Chrugiau (upon Mynydd Epynt) during a break in the Army firing schedule – but worth a look, too?

Located within the obscure Mid Walian uplands between Beulah and Abergwesyn, this overgrown Bronze Age round cairn takes a bit of finding... however, the vibe to be enjoyed within its forestry clearing is pretty special. Worth the effort. I arrived during the calm following an intense night of torrential thunderstorms spent within the Irfon Pass.... sunshine illuminating the webs of grass-dwelling spiders adding a somewhat surreal visual aesthetic to the cairn’s locale.

Furthermore, the enigmatic (apparent) ring cairn of Pen Twr is spectacularly sited a little over a mile due east, sweeping views contrasting with the intense myopia of Banc Paderau. Combining a visit to both, based upon Ty’n-y-cwm farm, makes for a satisfying walk of two complementary halves. What’s not to like?

One of the curious things about scanning OS maps for antiquarian stuff is that – like Forrest Gump’s mum’s ‘box of chocolates’ – very often you don’t know what you’re gonna get. Such is the case with Darren Camp, a first-rate prehistoric fortress rising to the south of the hamlet of Pen-bont Rhydybeddau, some distance west of Pumlumon. Appearing somewhat insignificant upon the 1:50k variety, the site never seemed to rise to the top of the ‘list’, so to speak. That is... until a  chance viewing of an aerial image made clear the error of my assumption. Ah, assumptions, don’t you just love ‘em?

Yeah, although univallate, the fort is fabulously sited, with correspondingly top-class views to all points of the compass. Furthermore, although somewhat confused by the presence of a former open cast ‘silver-lead mine’, the western approach is additionally protected by quadruple outworks. Oh, and the summit of the hilltop, within the ramparts, is crowned by at least one Bronze Age cairn.... which the inhabitants clearly saw no need to remove. Or maybe even erected themselves, seeing as a  ‘small cordoned pot sherd’ discovered here during a limited 1996 excavation by the wondrous Mr Toby Driver apparently has ‘Late Bronze Age parallels’? Intriguing,.