The Ambient Rambler’s Book of Journey — Ilkley Moor — April 2003
The very name Ilkley Moor conjures up images in my mind's eye of seas of heather, weathered rocks and utter peace. Needless to say, it is one of my favourite places on earth! I have trod the paths around the moor since I was a teenager and for me, it has never lost it's magic.
When I lived around Huddersfield and Leeds in the 1980's, I'd often get the train over to Ilkley, make the trudge up to the Cow n' Calf rocks and disappear into the moor, sometimes for days on end. I was never happier than sitting on a rock with my sketch pad, watching the light change over the landscape and poking around in heather to find cup and ring marks.
When I moved away to attend Norwich School of Art, I'd often spend much of my summer holidays back on the moor. Unfortunately, since I left art school in 1991 and was forced kicking and screaming into full time employment, opportunities to return to the moor have been few and far between. I'd only managed a couple of day visits during Ambient Rambles into the dales – a quick circuit around my favourite places and off again. So when my girlfriend suggested going away for a week around Easter, "Ilkley Moor" sprang out of my mouth before she had finished the sentence!
Ilkley Moor isn't the most comfortable place to pitch a tent... in bad weather it can be an unforgiving place! So after a quick search on the internet, I found a B&B right under the Cow n' Calf rocks. Sorted! A week on my favourite moor with access to a bathroom and fluffy towels!
On arriving in Ilkley on Saturday 19th April, I reacquainted myself with the Midland Hotel. How many hours and pints I'd whiled away waiting for trains in there... and the struggle up the hill with backpacks on brought a few memories back too.
We found the B&B and it seemed OK, the people were friendly but I got a chintz induced headache when we were shown to our room. Every available inch was covered in floral wallpaper, floral bedspread, floral curtains, a disgraceful Louis XIV plastic reproduction mirror and hoards of little ornaments to knock over and break! But, there was a saving grace in that the Cow n' Calf rocks could be seen out of the window.
With flowery patterns spinning before our eyes, a trip up to the Cow n' Calf Hotel bar seemed a pretty sound idea. Sitting outside with a pint in my hand looking towards the rocks soon calmed my florally agitated mind. As the sun began to sink I couldn't resist a quick skip up to the Hangingstones. A rock outcrop with some of the strangest variations on cup and ring marks to be found anywhere. This used to be a favourite haunt of mine, sitting on the outcrop staring at the carvings performing lysergically enhanced shimmers over the rock. Back here in 2003, watching the sun set at the western end of Wharfedale, it felt like something of a homecoming.
Sunday
After a restless night in the floral palace, we were out on the moor early! Thought I'd do my usual circuit today around the bits of the moor I knew the best. A mere scamper from our back door up to the Cow n' Calf rocks and up onto Pancake Ridge to the 'Haystack Rock'. A large glacial deposit boulder with a number of cup and ring marks on the top. Nearby is the Planets, a low boulder bearing cup, ring and groove marks.
Just up the trackway is a large enclosed area at Backstone Beck. The walling is late Bronze Age, but it is known to have been the site of a settlement for at least 2000 years before that. A section of the site was excavated in the late 1980's to reveal hut circles and a section of the walling was rebuilt, before that, the wall was ruinous and covered by peat and heather. The parts of wall with crossed the path could also be seen as a foot worn jumble. This area also encloses three largish cup and ring/groove marked rocks. One of which is sometimes known as the 'Second Idol Stone'.
We paused here and ate our sarnies. This is a well chosen and sheltered spot, nestled behind the landmass of Green Crag and commanding good views of the hills above Wharfedale. This is the thing I love about this part of Ilkley Moor. It is a complete Prehistoric Landscape that retains not only the monuments these people built to their gods and ancestors, but also where they lived and farmed. The area is small enough to convey a real sense of personal scale without being dominated by a Stonehenge or Castle Rigg type site. All of the sites here are within a short walk of each other and are very obviously interconnected. The people who built the stone circles and created the rock carvings here are quite likely to be the people who's bone's still lie under the cairns to the east on Green Crag Slack and Woofa Bank.
Onto the next stop, the Twelve Apostle's Stone Circle at the top of the moor. This is my old local! Whenever I approach this circle it's very much like visiting an old mate. Sounds a bit soppy, but I love this place (man)! A small circle surrounded by a low bank next to the main cross-moor path. If reports I've heard are true, very few of the stones are in their original positions. The western end of the circle has been a bit of a mess for as long as I can remember. Many of the stones that are now propped up by smaller stones, laid fallen on the ground during the 1980's. The eastern end of the circle has always seemed fairly sound to me. Unfortunately, a stone on the north eastern side of the circle that leaned dramatically, has now fallen and lays mostly buried. The area enclosed by the circle is also increasingly footworn.
From here we took the path to the east over to the Grubstones. A tight cluster of stones hidden in the heather that is the possible kerbstones of a robbed cairn. To find this site head for the outcrop of rocks visible from the north and west. The stones are to be found down a small path in the heather about 10 yards or so south of the gamekeeper's hut. Watch for the gamekeeper here – I've had a run in with him here on a past visit.
Headed back north with a quick stop at the Little Skirtful of Stones cairn and over Green Crag. The large boundary stone on the edge of Green Crag is a good place to stop for a while and take in a view of the moor. A natural glacial deposit boulder with a number of weathered bowls (cup marks?) on the top and a large 18th century inscription carved into it.
Nearby, on the eastern side of path below is the Idol Stone. A small rock bearing cup marks grouped together with grooves. This lies a couple of yards north of the prominent pointed Idol Rock. Opposite on the western side of the path is a large cup and ring marked boulder. I have heard of prehistoric walling here in this area (but have not seen it myself), which could possibly mark a boundary between the western part of Green Crag Slack which contains dwelling places, and the eastern section which is a cairn field. A division between the land of the living and of the dead (ref: Paul Bennett). This area of the moor is home to over 200 rock carvings out of the 600+ in the area of Wharfedale, Airedale and the Nidd. The other large concentration is on the south side of the moor at Rivock Edge.
The final stop of the day was the Pancake Stone. Precariously perched on the edge of the moor overhanging the Cow n' Calf hotel, and visible from all over the valley below. This weathered outcrop has a number of cup n' ring marks carved in it's top surface, but are now badly worn. From here, it's just a short scramble down to the pub below!
Monday
Today was the day for a good long trek along the western edge of the moor. I'd been to the Swastika Stone a few times before, but not really explored this area in any great detail in the past. With a newly purchased walking guide in hand, we ascended the moor edge, crossed Backstone Beck, took the path through Ilkley Crags and on towards White Wells.
The hillside around White Wells has a number of cup n' ring marked rocks clustered around the hillside spring that emerges at Willy Hall's Spout and continues through Ilkley (under what is still called Brooke Street) into the River Wharfe. Near here is the Pepperpot Rock, Willy Hall's Wood Stone and the Barmishaw Stone which is only one of two rocks (the Panorama Stone being the other) to bear the famous 'Ilkley Ladder' motif. Carry on up the hill and you eventually come to the Badger Stone.
The path continues westwards on along the edge of the moor. There is a cup n' ring marked rock in a private garden at Overdale and the path leads past the Panorama Reservoir, which was the original location of the Panorama Stone before development in the 1890's. Eventually, you cross Herber's Ghyll and on an outcrop surrounded by Victorian railings is the Swastika Stone (the stone at the front is a modern reproduction – look on the outcrop behind for the real thing).
This carving stands apart from all the others in this area, in design, execution and most likely the period it dates from. The symbol itself was widely used in Iron Age Celtic cultures throughout Europe and into Asia. So it seems reasonable to suppose that this carving is somewhat younger than the others on the moor. The carving itself seems shallower and finer than much of the older rock art too, which could be the result of using metal tools to incise the rock, rather than the older method of pecking with stone tools. However, it does employ the same components in that the design is made of cup and groove marks.
Continue westwards on the path and nearby lies a cup n' ring marked rock that has been shaped into a gatepost. Further on through a gap in the wall is the Anvil Stone, a boulder bearing several worn cup marks. Beyond this is the Sepultura Stone, a large boulder with a number of peculiar geological folds and a worn cup and ring on the top. Further still is the Piper's Crag Stone. An outcrop with a number of deep cup, ring and groove marks.
From here it is possible to continue on to the Doubler Stones, but we decided to turn up onto the moor in search of the Badger Stone. Up onto the ridge and beyond the Swastika Stone visible in it's railings below is the Neb Stone. A large upended boulder bearing possible cup marks, although it is possible that they are natural rock features. However, there is no doubt about the cup marks on the rocks behind the stone, over which a section of drystone walling has been built.
I'd made a couple of unsuccessful attempts to find the Badger Stone in the past, only to be thwarted by time, bad map reading or the complete lack of any map at all. So this time I was determined to find it! As it happened, it was easy once on the right path. From the Neb Stone we followed the path over the Kiethley Road, around the spring heads and on eastwards. On the moorland ahead, I could see a single boulder bobbing in and out of view as the path dipped and rose. There it was, the Badger Stone in it's full glory!
The southern face of the rock is covered with cup n' ring marks, little channels leading down the rock, and there appears to be a possible unfinished, crude attempt at a swastika motif, which could hint at a later attempt to re-use the rock. This is one of the few panels of rock art on the moor which has not been executed on a flat surface and it's proximity to spring heads speaks of water to my mind. The Neb Stone is visible to the west and the Weary Hill Stone is also nearby.
Slightly to the north is a small boulder bearing and strange motif. On the north face of the rock is central cup n' ring, bordered on the right by loops that resemble flower petals and on the left, at least four grooves which flow around the ring and down to the ground. Again, this rock is notable in that the carving is on a sloping and not horizontal panel. If you head down hill from this rock, you come to the aforementioned Barmishaw Stone, Willy Hall's Wood Stone and the Pepperpot Rock, near the stream and Willy Hall's Spout. The lines on the rock do appear to reflect the stream and mimic it's course down the hill.
From here we headed back around the top of Backstone Beck and on to another evening in the nearby pub (anything not to have to stare at those floral walls!).
Tuesday
Today I was on another mission to another site I'd never made it to before. The Horncliffe Circle towards the southern edge of the moor.
We climbed up onto the Cow n' Calf rocks, the top of which is worth a visit if only to see the hundreds of Victorian carvings which carpet the top of the 'Cow' outcrop. The term Ilkley Moor Baht 'at (without a hat) originates from the Victorian Choral gatherings that took place here. Apparently, if you attended without a hat, it meant that you were looking for a suitor.
I've always found it a little strange that as the most prominent landmark for miles around, the Cow n' Calf didn't bear any cup n' ring marks as they can be found both to the left and the right of the outcrop. It is possible that any that may have been on the rock could have been lost under the onslaught of Victorian graffiti or the wear of thousands of pairs of feet every year.
It is thought that the Cow n' Calf name originates not from it's appearance, but from a tradition of lighting beacons on the rocks.
"The larger rock was once known as the 'Inglestone Cow'... The Scottish dialect word, ingle, 'fire burning on a hearth', may come from the Gaelic aingeal, meaning 'fire' or 'light'."There is strong evidence of an old calendar custom in the British Isles, around Beltaine or springtime in general, where the old fires are extinguished and new ones are lit. Cattle are then driven between two fires to divinely protect them from disease. 'Imbolc' means 'purification'. Inglestone Cow... Fire-stone Cow."
Gyrus – Verbeia: Goddess of Wharfedale
From here, we took the path over Green Crag, onto the Grubstones and down to Horncliffe Well. Climb over the style in the wall, past the well and ruins of modernish huts, cross the narrow stream and rising before you in a jumble of rocks is the Horncliffe Circle. This consists of a large outer ring of stones set together in a kerb and a small inner setting, which could either be a hearth or a cist. It is likely that this was a cairn circle, or maybe a hut circle (or maybe even both!).
Returning northwards on the path to the Twelve Apostles, we took the opportunity to tarry a while in the sunlight and laze in the circle. I've always enjoyed spending time here. To just lie still and listed to the sounds of the moor is an absolute pleasure. An hour passed in no time at all. We then wondered onto the triangulation cairn at summit of the moor.
Wednesday
The major part of today was to be spent on a visit to see my parents, sister, nephews and niece over in Huddersfield. But there was time to stop off at the Panorama Stones over the road from St Margaret's Church on the way to the train station.
The stone lies in three pieces surrounded by Victorian iron railings (which I find always add to a site!). All three sections have carvings, but it is the largest stone which bears the famous 'Ilkley Ladder' motif. The carvings are very worn and faint, and if something is not done to halt the erosion soon, these important, unique carvings will be lost forever. As these rocks have already been moved from their original location, I think there is a good case for moving them to the Manor House Museum in Ilkley. These rock art panels are just too important to lose.
Thursday
We thought we'd tackle the other side of the valley today and take a trip up to Middleton Moor, as there was a number of cup n' ring marked stones noted on the OS map. So we descended into Ilkley and spent a little while by the river behind the museum, which stands on the site of the old Roman fort.
Middleton Woods is a bit of an uphill slog and we got lost on the winding paths a couple of times. We eventually found a style over into a field of horses, past Middleton Hall an on to the tarmac road leading up to a farm track and eventually the moor.
Lots of wildlife here (Ilkley Moor can be a little barren besides Grouse and the odd small flock of Sheep), rabbits, lapwings and loads of lambs all frolicking around like some forest scene from Bambi! The view across Wharfedale to the Cow n' Calf rocks was truly wonderful.
The first carving we found was a beauty! Three cup n' ring marks on a small boulder, the largest with at least five rings at Dryas Dyke. Nearby on Foldshaw Ridge is the Lattice Rock, another small boulder set in a slight rise under the path. The area a round here has a number of marked rocks, but these are well hidden in heather and bracken and require a bit of searching.
From here take the path west until you reach an old milestone, turn left and follow the hill downwards, over a boggy stream and just beyond are a number of small boulders set low, which bear faint cup, ring and groove marks.
The weather had been fantastic until now. As we reached this cluster of rocks, the heavens opened and we got drenched on the long walk back down to Ilkley. We were forced into a number of pubs to find the warmest place to dry off in!
Friday
Woke up today to a good steady rain and could see mist up by the Cow n' Calf. But today is our last full day n' we weren't gonna let a bit of water put us off.... just one last visit to the Twelve Apostles before we leave!!
I love the moors in the mist! They can be bleak even on a sunny day, but the mist gives the moors an eerie Hound of the Baskervilles quality that I find invigorating! Rocks loom out of the mist... all very atmospheric!
No grubbing around in the heather trying to find rock art today, just stick to the paths I know as visibility was down to about 20/30 feet, so none of the usual landmarks could be used. It would be quite easy to wander off the path and get utterly lost. As we reached the top of the moor near the stone circle, the rain got heavier and heavier and I got the feeling that the moors didn't want visitors today. However, on the way back down the side of Backstone Beck, came across a wonderful cup, ring and groove marked rock set into the path.
Oh well, another drying off session in the pub then!
Saturday
Got our gear packed away and set off back down into town. We were quite pleased to be leaving the floral palace behind. The landlady's (well intentioned) question and answer sessions whenever we returned were getting a little irritating and we'd find ourselves creeping upstairs and trying to avoid what had become a familiar mantra of, "'Ello Andy, where've you been today then" from the kitchen as we crept past holding our boots! She was only being friendly bless her, but it had begun to remind me a little of trying not to be pissed around my parents as a teenager!
We had a little time before our train and fitted in a visit the the Manor House Museum, which I remembered (correctly) as being small! And time for another lig by the river while my lunch got fed to the ducks!
Conclusion
Rock art has always attracted a wide spectrum of interpretations and suspected meanings and so is a bit of a minefield. To truly understand their meanings, we would have to return to the societies that created them and live the lives, believe the beliefs and experience the world of their creators. Something that is so far removed from us now in both time and culture. The truth of the matter is that we don't know... and probably never will.
What we can piece together from the evidence available is scant. But we do know that cup and ring marks were included in tombs that can be dated and so most likely have connections to funerary rites and possibly a belief in an after-life and ancestor worship. To these ends, they are most likely the symbolic embodyment of a belief.
The art that is sited in the open air was intended to be seen and convey a message to those who saw it. A method of communication. Those in tombs may have a different purpose such as protection or guidance for the dead.
My own conjectural thoughts (based on observation and reading) are that they had multiple meanings and relevance to the people that created them. I've always found it fascinating that such a simple form of symbolism can produce a huge variety of designs.
Many tribal societies or cultures without written languages record past deeds or parables in story form and I have always been struck between the similarities between some of the carvings on the moor and the sand stories of the Australian Aborigines, all though of course similarity in appearance doesn't necessarily mean duality of purpose. However, I do find it quite reasonable to suspect that the carvings were once coloured by pigments and may have once been used during rites/festivities to recount stories or legends regarding ancestors or the surrounding landscape, maybe accompanied by music and ritual movements.
They could well also be connected to fertility rites, as Paul Bennett recounts...
A Scottish minister at the turn of the century told the great folklorist and mystic Walter Evans-Wentz how cup-marked stones were the rocks of the faerie folk. "An elder in my church," said the minister, "knew a woman who was accustomed, in milking her cows, to offer libations to the fairies. The woman was later converted to Christ and gave up the practice, and as a result one of her cows was taken by the fairies. Then she revived the practice."
Many of the art panels in the Ilkley Moor area are situated on outcrops along the edge of the moor, or on landfast boulders set back a little from the edge. Apart from the down/uphill course followed by the Badger Stone 'group' near While Wells, which appears to cluster around the hillside spring. Here it seems reasonable to deduce that the marked rocks along the ridge may mark some kind of boundary or route over the moor and could denote a course of procession or statement of identity. The exceptions here are those carving which are set further back into the moor such as those at the living enclosure at Backstone Beck and the Idol Stone, which all have cup marks enclosed in groups by grooves. These rocks could have an entirely different purpose and almost look like some form of counting device or even gaming boards!
I find the likely hood that the stones had a number of multiple meanings entirely plausible. The same symbol in different setting could have entirely different meanings speaking of life and fertility, water, air, fire, death, spirits, legends, the people and their connection to their land.
360 degree view of Twelve Apostles from centre
We thought we'd tackle the other side of the valley today and take a trip up to Middleton Moor, as there was a number of cup n' ring marked stones noted on the OS map. So we descended into Ilkley and spent a little while by the river behind the museum, which stands on the site of the old Roman fort.
Middleton Woods is a bit of an uphill slog and we got lost on the winding paths a couple of times. We eventually found a style over into a field of horses, past Middleton Hall an on to the tarmac road leading up to a farm track and eventually the moor.
Lots of wildlife here (Ilkley Moor can be a little barren besides Grouse and the odd small flock of Sheep), rabbits, lapwings and loads of lambs all frolicking around like some forest scene from Bambi! The view across Wharfedale to the Cow n' Calf rocks was truly wonderful.
The first carving we found was a beauty! Three cup n' ring marks on a small boulder, the largest with at least five rings at Dryas Dyke. Nearby on Foldshaw Ridge is the Lattice Rock, another small boulder set in a slight rise under the path. The area a round here has a number of marked rocks, but these are well hidden in heather and bracken and require a bit of searching.
From here take the path west until you reach an old milestone, turn left and follow the hill downwards, over a boggy stream and just beyond are a number of small boulders set low, which bear faint cup, ring and groove marks.
The weather had been fantastic until now. As we reached this cluster of rocks, the heavens opened and we got drenched on the long walk back down to Ilkley. We were forced into a number of pubs to find the warmest place to dry off in!
History of Verbeia: Goddess of Wharfedale by Gyrus (including theories on the Sawstika Stone)
Pics of Twelve Apostles before a couple of stone-falls