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Pottering around Pickering

Day oneWhere next?
With my little boy Callan away with his mum for the August bank holiday weekend, I had earmarked Monday for boring household stuff. But that left me with 2 full days of 'freedom' and I was 'casting around' for somewhere a bit different to go.

This summer's really spoilt me, you see! With no childcare ties on alternate weekends and blessed with good weather, I've done more megaraking than I dared dream. But this left me in somewhat of a quandary, having already made multiple visits to my usual daytrip stomping grounds - the Yorks Dales, Derby Dales and Cumbria.

Speculative glances at the road atlas confirmed that Northumbria is a bit far, even for me, but as my eyes tracked south they flicked across the North York Moors.... I had my answer!! A not-too-distant area where I knew there were lots of things I wanted to see but that I had 'neglected' in the past.

Simon sez "It's a cairn (or 2)"
Saturday 23 August 2003
On my lonesome for today's trip, my usual companion Ginger John opting out due to morbid fear of Bank Holiday weekend traffic, I had checked out a couple of interesting looking places on TMA the night before.

My first target was Simon Howe, having been captivated by Fitzcoraldo and Moggymiaow's posts on TMA. (I've got a bit of a 'thing' for cairn kerbs you see....)

Avoiding all the most major Scarborough routes and the Leeds festival traffic, I zipped up to Thirsk and along to Pickering. Taking 'backstreets' to by-pass the main road at Pickering I had a remarkably traffic-free run. (Ha, that'll teach you to be such a wuss John!)

Heading North on the A169, I had it vaguely in mind that on my way back I might stop off to revisit Blakey Topping. Not least because, despite repeated attempts, I've been unable to find the photos from my previous visit a few years ago.

So past the Hole of Horcum and therefore Blakey Topping, I was soon keeping my eyes peeled for the nearest landmark to where I needed to park - a sharp bend, in a valley and crossing Eller Beck Bridge.

Luckily I spotted it early and was able to pull into a wide grassy lane on the left at SE857982. It's not very driveable(!) but there's plenty of room for parking before it narrows to a track and then to paths.

See Simon Howe fieldnotes below.

Returning to the car I was well-pleased with the day so far and headed off towards Goathland, intending to stop off for a glance at a couple of tumuli. So I stopped and headed for the tumuli at approximately SE835997 on the moor opposite Thornhill Farm.

Couldn't see anything unless they are actually particularly unremarkable natural hill-type tumuli. I was a bit surprised because I thought I'd spotted them from Simon Howe - in the far distance.

Pleasant bit of moor though! On then, to Goathland.

So Howe many are there?
The cunningly named Two Howes are near Goathland and you can park safely (esp when there're lots of tourists about) on the edge of the road at around SE825108.

All the tourists wander off towards Goathland, with the occasional hiker heading off across the moors. The very edge of the moor here is a veritable network of paths, but within about 20 yards they start to define themselves better.

The one heading to the Two Howes starts off straight up onto the moor, past a 'garden-type' bench overlooking the edge of the moor, but you need an OS map really. Landranger'll do fine though.

See Two Howes fieldnotes below.

Back at the car I decided that rather than head back to Blakey Topping, I'd press on with seeing 'new' stuff while here. Maybe tomorrow for Blakey!

Howling mad
Heading west from Goathland, a modern standing stone marks the left turn to Hunt House. I parked at the point where a small lane 'dog-leg's back to the right, downhill towards the remains of the R*man road. This is also the point where the road proclaims itself private.

See Howl Moor Stone Circle fieldnotes below.

On my return to where I'd parked there was a family sat in their car looking confused. They asked the way to the R*man road, so I pointed them the right way and gave them my tiny photocopy of the relevant part of the Explorer map - it'd done its job for me after all. Also told 'em the prehistoric remains up on the moor were far more interesting...!

All of the sites covered so far could be walked between very pleasantly by the way. I just didn't have time!

Wheel(y)dale weird
Not wishing to go back the way I'd come - a bit of an obsession with me, and in a vague attempt to avoid going through Pickering, I bombed off to the west when I reached the Goathland road.

After a couple of stops to check maps (no navigator) I realised it'd probably been a bad idea, but I might as well press on now. I hit the (very) minor road heading south across what turned out to be Wheeldale Moor and gathered speed as the road straightened across the moor.

But almost immediately a familiar sight at the side of the road ahead pulled me up sharply. It was a tall standing stone with a small rectangular hole cut near the top. I'd seen it on TMA the night before, but hadn't thought I'd be able to see it and its brethren!!!

See Wheeldale Stones fieldnotes below.

With time getting on I eventually reached the A170 west of Pickering, headed for Thirsk, the A1 and home.

Day twoRuddy hell (or heaven?)
Sunday 24 August 2003
Having conquered his fear of traffic Jams, Ginger John joined me for my second day oop north.

Ironically we actually 'sailed' a lot 'closer to the wind' than I had the day before by heading for Rudston... thereby risking Bank Holiday traffic for Brid(lington) as well as Scarborough!

We did however 'box a bit clever' by avoiding going anywhere near York, going east beyond Selby before turning north. It was a bit of a long way round, but we had no traffic problems to speak of, so we counted it a success.

Arriving at Rudston, the church was clearly visible and we made a beeline straight there. The tallest monolith in Britain I've read....

See Rudston Monolith fieldnotes below.

Leaving Rudston, we briefly contemplated a detour to Duggleby Howe but John had never been to Blakey Topping, so we made that the priority.

Mmmm, vanilla (Blakey) Topping
Parking at the generous car park opposite the Hole of Horcum, for Blakey Topping you just have to go the opposite way to everyone else!

The hordes run the gauntlet to cross the busy and fast A169 to get a better look at the 'big hole' on the west side. The lane to Blakey Topping is handily on the same side of the road as the car park - the east, not the west as stated in (at least early editions of) TMA.

See Blakey Topping fieldnotes below.

It was approaching 4pm as we returned to the car and we pondered our next port of call. But it wasn't long until we succumbed to the temptation to try to beat the holiday traffic and to return to Leeds and home.

We even resisted going for a pint! Whatever next?

Simon Howe — Images

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<b>Simon Howe</b>Posted by Moth<b>Simon Howe</b>Posted by Moth<b>Simon Howe</b>Posted by Moth<b>Simon Howe</b>Posted by Moth<b>Simon Howe</b>Posted by Moth<b>Simon Howe</b>Posted by Moth<b>Simon Howe</b>Posted by Moth<b>Simon Howe</b>Posted by Moth<b>Simon Howe</b>Posted by Moth<b>Simon Howe</b>Posted by Moth<b>Simon Howe</b>Posted by Moth<b>Simon Howe</b>Posted by Moth

Simon Howe — Fieldnotes

14.09.03ce
Access a fairly long and 'reasonably' strenuous walk on a generally decentish path, but with stiles, streams and gullies to cross, as well as the North Yorks Steam Railway track…. Moor could be boggy pretty easily too.

Saturday 23 August 2003
This is my kind of place. A picturesque and longish walk from the nearest road, the cairn(s) of Simon Howe were always likely to be popular with me! And when you get there, a beautifully ruined cairn, another (rather underwhelming) cairn, and to add definite icing to the cake, a 4 stone row….

Heading North on the A169, past the Hole of Horcum look out for a sharpish lefthand bend in a valley, crossing Eller Beck Bridge.

Luckily I spotted it early and was able to pull into a wide grassy lane on the left at SE857982. It's not very driveable(!) but there's plenty of room for parking before it narrows to a track and then to paths.

I walked up the lane for a very short distance and went straight on along a narrower but clear path as the lane bent left. This path soon bears right into a little valley, crossing a tiny muddy bit of low land with a stile. There may even be a stream at time.

Just past this point is the North Yorks Moors Steam Railway track. Keep an eye and ear open – you just might be lucky enough (or unlucky enough) to see a train pass. I did – and rather nice it was too.

I simply kept faith and followed this obvious path for a couple of miles across the moor until it reached the cairn. If you use the Landranger map, note that you do NOT have to leave this path to reach Simon Howe.

I really am developing a bit of a fetish for cairn kerbs, kerb-cairns and cairn circles! This ruined cairn certainly has what remains of a beautiful kerb!

Decent sized stones eased back from the perpendicular, leaning outwards at the top. A bit crown or crown of thorns-like – in this respect reminding me very slightly of my beloved Bryn Cader Faner.

Just to the NNW are the remains of a low flattened cairn with one stone stood at its edge. Looks like a remaining kerbstone to me. And between the cairns lies the 4 stone row!!! Two stones are fallen and one of the stones that remains standing is at a crazy angle.

And what a commanding position! To the north it is reasonably easy to make out the silhouettes of the Two Howes and to the west is Howl Moor.

For me Simon Howe has it all – the 'journey' the 'monument' and the setting. I loved it. (Didn't even mind the grouse butt!)

Two Howes — Images

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<b>Two Howes</b>Posted by Moth<b>Two Howes</b>Posted by Moth<b>Two Howes</b>Posted by Moth<b>Two Howes</b>Posted by Moth<b>Two Howes</b>Posted by Moth<b>Two Howes</b>Posted by Moth

Two Howes — Fieldnotes

14.09.03ce
Access a fairly long and 'fairly' strenuous walk on a generally decentish path. No stiles gates etc. Moor could be boggy pretty easily.

Saturday 23 August 2003
Near Goathland, you can park safely on the edge of the road at around SE825108. The very edge of the moor here is a veritable network of paths, but within about 20 yards they start to define themselves better.

The one heading to the Two Howes starts off straight up onto the moor, past a 'garden-type' bench overlooking the edge of the moor, but you need an OS map really. Landranger'll do fine though.

The path bears right towards a small tarn, and then left up further onto the moor. Soon you can see the mounds of the Two Howes, with their modern 'piles of stones'-type cairns on top.

Really nice examples of (almost) complete cairns, though rather eroded – not least by people walking up onto the tops 'for a look'….

Simon Howe and the 'trig' point next to the neighbouring ruined cairn are clearly visible to the south. Goathland looks very attractive some distance away, nestling in the valley more or less north of the Two Howes. The site also overlooks Howl Moor.

Howl Moor — Images

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<b>Howl Moor</b>Posted by Moth<b>Howl Moor</b>Posted by Moth<b>Howl Moor</b>Posted by Moth<b>Howl Moor</b>Posted by Moth<b>Howl Moor</b>Posted by Moth<b>Howl Moor</b>Posted by Moth<b>Howl Moor</b>Posted by Moth<b>Howl Moor</b>Posted by Moth

Howl Moor — Fieldnotes

14.09.03ce
Access a bit of a walk involving a climb some would certainly find strenuous. Starts on a metalled lane and continues on pretty good paths, but going can be a little rough. No stiles gates etc but the bit where you crest the crags onto the moor could be difficult for some people. Moor could be boggy pretty easily.

Saturday 23 August 2003
Heading west from Goathland, a modern standing stone marks the left turn to Hunt House. I parked at the point where a small lane 'dog-leg's back to the right, downhill towards the remains of the R*man road. This is also the point where the road proclaims itself private.

The lane leads down to Hunt House farm itself, then crossing a stream it bears right, uphill. Just as the track starts to level out to head for Wheeldale Lodge there is a fairly visible left fork that heads obliquely up the hill through the bracken and past some of the lower outcrops.

As it reaches the crags, there is a path to the left up onto the moor. Once onto the moor, from this path the plethora of fascinating stones are to the left, but they'll be pretty obvious from just about anywhere on Howl Moor itself! There are loads of 'em.

The bit that moggymiaow singled out on this website is certainly the clearest 'something' that I could see. And it certainly includes the most distinctly 'standing' stone.

Not absolutely sure it's a stone circle though myself. Don't get me wrong – it could be, though as 2 concentric circles I'm even less sure! What it is though is absolutely and definitely something!!!!

One of the reasons I'm a little sceptical about the circle is the sheer number of stones on the moor that look as if they've been 'set' by man (on edge, or on end) rather than just being erratics or outcrops or quarry spoil or whatever.

I didn't count em but I reckon there must have been at least 20 – all scattered over this part of the moor – far too many for chance to have left standing on edge or on end.

And several of these 'set' stones can be traced into circular patterns with other stones, and there are often vague hints of slight embankment. And though I know a lot of stone circles are embanked, this could be a real 'giveaway' considering the proliferation of cairns in the area. (Both Simon Howe and Two Howes can be seen on the horizon.)

So I reckon it's the remnants of a decent sized and very cool cairn cemetery. But what do I know? Go and see what you think! It's a nice walk if nowt else!

The Wheeldale Stones — Images

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<b>The Wheeldale Stones</b>Posted by Moth<b>The Wheeldale Stones</b>Posted by Moth

The Wheeldale Stones — Fieldnotes

14.09.03ce
Access right next to road. No walk etc.

Saturday 23 August 2003
Very odd. Approaching from the north, the first 2 stones I saw were ones with the holes in. As I'd thought when I noticed them on TMA the night before, they looked about as prehistoric as my 2 year old boy!!!

The tooling is much too noticeable, too angular and just, well, too for anything pre-iron age, surely?

They and a couple of the others did though, put me in mind of Long Tom on Fyfield Down near Avebury, which Julian refers to in the big papery TMA as an iron age waymarker.

And at least one other looks like it could be the real thing!

All that said, surely there's no doubt what their function is nowadays? They've got to be waymarkers for the road when snowed under! (And so, in my opinion, whatever their age they're unlikely to be in their original positions.)

No idea what the holes are for.

Rudston Monolith — Images

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<b>Rudston Monolith</b>Posted by Moth<b>Rudston Monolith</b>Posted by Moth<b>Rudston Monolith</b>Posted by Moth<b>Rudston Monolith</b>Posted by Moth

Leys of Marlee — Images

26.08.01ce
<b>Leys of Marlee</b>Posted by Chris
Moth Posted by Moth
15th September 2003ce
Edited 30th September 2003ce


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