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Delerious in Derbyshire

Painting is PANTS
Friday. Planning to paint my garden fence – ugh! – on Saturday, I reckoned I'd be due a reward on Sunday. So I rang the lovely (?) Ginger John to see if he had any plans.

I was disappointed to hear he was otherwise occupied. But I said (and meant it) that it wasn't a problem and I'd go on my own. To Derbyshire. John said he'd ring me if his plans changed.

Saturday. Mid-fence painting, the Mothphone rang and it was John. His plans had changed and he was free.

Good stuff!! John and I seem to work well together – I don't think so far that there's been any stone we've looked for seriously and failed to find. Helps that we're both stubborn gits.

As John lives in South Leeds and I'd be 'passing' on my way to the M1, we arranged for me to pick him up at 10am Sunday. This was good since when he stays over here for an early start we always end up setting off with bad heads.

Back to the painting and with some new motivation, the hours and hours and hours of dip, drip, wipe, splash, stroke, stroke, stroke passed like... hours and hours and hours. Five flamin' hours in total.

Still, topped up the tan nicely and got to listen to loads of groovy music! Could even hear the stuff I was playing at times over the neighbours blaring the sound of wonderful bleeding radio one....

Spent Saturday night checking out Burl, big papery TMA, and of course this site for ideas for the trip.

I knew I wanted to see Doll Tor and Nine Stones Close (no OS map on one previous visit and no time on others). I also wanted to pop into Arbor Low to take some pictures as I can't find the ones I've taken before.

So with the unwitting help of Stubob, Serenissima and other TMAers, I created a nice mess of biro on my already well-scribbled Landranger 119. Sorry to the maporaks. You know who you are.

There were so many 'possibles' that I didn't really plan a route, other than deciding to start with the ones I really wanted to see.

Bloody Sunday drivers!
Sunday 13 July 2003
Arriving at John's house, I discovered that we may not be totally headache-free after all, as he'd been out to the pub for 'a few' the night before. I was fine though, so that's allright.

John was happy with the plan – or couldn't be bothered to argue, so we headed off for junction 30 of the M1.

Which of course we proceeded to miss because of some particularly intriguing 'applied bollocks-talking'. Probably something incredibly intellectual like "Why are Derbyshire 'Lows' actually high?"....

Still, junction 29 isn't far and we didn't lose much time by hitting Chesterfield (it's got a crooked spire...) from that direction.

In fact we soon realised that the direction of approach was fairly incidental – a sunny Sunday morning wasn't it? The roads through Chesterfield were full of bloody daytrippers!

Could've been worse. We stopped for petrol anyway.

Earlier on John had mentioned that he'd brought no food, but I'd happened to have plenty of bread rolls and cheese in at home (mmmm, cheeseez) so I'd brought enough for both of us.

I was surprised then, when John came out of the petrol station armed with the largest Cornish Pasty I've seen this side of Padstow, which he proceeded to demolish for 'breakfast'. As is fairly usual for me, I'd had no breakfast. Despite the meat, it made me quite hungry. I also found a chunk of it in the car yesterday. Thanks John.

So is it Youlgrave or Youlgreave?
Heading off towards Stanton Moor and Birchover we were zipping along the B5056 when we arrived in Youlgrave. Where's the 'e' gone then?

I've never noticed before, but on the OS map and my road atlas it's Youlgreave, but the sign as you enter the village says Youlgrave, as does the blind above the window of the post office! Weird.

I'll call it Youlgrave. I'm sure the people who live there wouldn't put up with incorrect signs for long! Lovely place whatever it's called – spent a couple of nights there once. Great pubs.

Any road up, we'd established that we needed to turn off before Youlgrave, so we turned round. To be fair to the Ginger Navigator, even when we retraced our steps it wasn't very well signposted. I was a bit surprised I didn't recognise it actually.

As we approached Birchover I told John about 'the Druids Inn' and its delicious food and massive menu. (I assume it still does delicious food and has a massive menu, not having been for a few years.)

I pointed out Rowtor Rocks, but as it was noonish already, thanks to traffic and wrong turns, we gave the outcrop a miss. Having been onto the rocks before however, I'd highly recommend the steep but easy climb. Stunning views.

Up the hill towards Stanton Moor then.

Going over to the other side
Stanton Moor 'proper' is a wondrous place, littered as it is with all manner of prehistoric phenomena. The Nine Ladies are almost irresistible.

But resist them we did. We had both visited before, more than once, and the number of cars parked in the laybys mentioned in Elderford's Doll Tor fieldnotes suggested that we would have to fight our way onto the moor anyway!

So, out of the car we turned our attention to the left of the road from Birchover towards Stanton in Peak. As we walked up to the second layby (on the left) we immediately spotted the Andle Stone in its dinky enclosure.

My god, it's enormous (darling)!
We were soon standing at the foot of this benign monster. The big papery version of TMA says it's 15 ft long, by 10 ft wide and 10ft high. Pah! Pah! and thrice Pah! with multiple exclamation marks!!!!!

See Andle Stone fieldnotes below.

Doll Tor beckoned.

Living Doll
As we followed Elderford's splendidly detailed instructions from the Andle Stone (thank you Mr E), John realised that he'd looked for the beautiful Doll before, but hadn't known her name. And hadn't found her.

See Doll Tor fieldnotes below.

Retracing our steps, John and I were both so invigorated by Doll Tor that we took our courage (!) in both hands and climbed the Andle Stone. And WOW!!!! Is it worth it?!!!!!! Hell yeah!

Back at the layby, John (who's a bit of a Mini fiend) and I (60s and 70s car fiend in general) stopped to admire a very nice Riley Elf.... Sorry. 'Oi'll get me anorak.'

As we passed back through Birchover it was very tempting to stop for a lunchtime pint at the Druids or Red Lion. We wanted to crack on though, so back to the B5056 we went.

Arriving at Elderford's layby at 119 229 619, we discovered it was full. But luckily there is room for one car at the bottom of the lane on the west side of the road. This is right by the gate to the track leading up the hill towards Robin Hood's Stride, Cratcliffe Rocks etc and Nine Stones Close.

Over the hill and round the bend
We didn't stop at the Hermit's Cave as there are far too many really old stones in Derbyshire to bother wasting time looking at medieval holes! (I guess it may well have been significant before that really, but I liked the phrase!)

The track bends left as it approaches Robin Hood's Stride directly towards the craggy outcrop, leaving Cratcliffe Tor (as I believe the outcrop with the hermit's cave is called) behind to the right.

Robin Hood's Stride is pretty impressive, but we weren't going to bother climbing it (too hot!). We kept to the track, not taking a footpath to the right which I'd guess goes out onto the top of Cratcliffe Tor.

See Robin Hood's Stride and Nine Stones Close fieldnotes below.

A big bouncing beauty
Nine Stones Close caught me off-guard both by the fact that we looked virtually straight at it without seeing it and by the fact that it was somehow not as I had imagined it.

See Nine Stones Close fieldnotes below.

Back at the car, after a quick gulp of rehydration (weak Ribena Toothkind stolen from my little boy Callan – the only plastic bottle in my house) we sped off to Arbor Low.

Shoot your shot
Since it was now about 1.15pm, we briefly thought of leaving Arbor Low until later in the day, just before heading back to Leeds, in the hope that there would fewer people around. Trouble was that just about everywhere else we were thinking of going was in the opposite direction.... And so is the M1. I bit the bullet.

See Arbor Low fieldnotes below.

On the way back through the farm we noticed that some big renovation or conversion work is going on, and observed how nice it would be to live there. We both thought we'd try to get the path moved so that people weren't traipsing past the house all the time though!

Raven raving
Back at the car we decided we really ought to eat, but didn't want to sit in a car park to do it.

I had been captivated the night before by Stubob's pictures and descriptions of the Raven Tor cairns, so with John's agreement, we decided to forego the Barbrook circles (which I've seen before but John hasn't) and Eyam Moor (which I've explored unsuccessfully....)

They could form the basis of another trip and we would instead direct our attention to Raven Tor and Beeley Moor. So we headed off back through Youlgrave (for the fourth time!) and Rowsley, to find the entrance to Stubob's disused 'Wragg's Quarry' and Raven Tor.

See Raven Tor Triple Cairn fieldnotes below.

Back at the car, we perched in the shade of the open hatchback and finally remembered to get around to lunch. I think it was about 2.45 or 3pm, and the Wensleydale had the sweats badly!!!! Still delicious though. Stealth cheese, Wensleydale. Wonderful stuff.

No pudding! Aaargghh!!!! Oh well, can't be helped. Next stop Beeley Moor, primary target – Park Gate stone circle. Secondary targets, more cairns.

Pudding!!!!!
We arrived at the bottom of the lane leading north between forestry and nature reserve, towards the various cairns and stone circle. Imagine our pudding-deprived delight at the sight of an ice cream van parked in the wide entrance to the lane!

'Magnum' for John and large '99' for me and off we trotted.

See Park Gate Stone Circle fieldnotes below.

Some like it hot...
And that includes me! But it was now well gone 4pm and the several hours under the blazing sun and a fair distance stomped were beginning to take their toll on both of us. And we still had the 'sunny Sunday' daytripping traffic to negotiate.

So, despite the proximity of the cairns, their attractions were narrowly outweighed by the proximity of the Devonshire Arms in Beeley for a quick pint of Black Sheep Special before the drive home. It was the right decision. Very pleasant way to end the day.

The Andle Stone — Images

17.07.03ce
<b>The Andle Stone</b>Posted by Moth<b>The Andle Stone</b>Posted by Moth

The Andle Stone — Fieldnotes

17.07.03ce
Sunday 13 July 2003
Out of the car we turned our attention to the left of the road from Birchover towards Stanton in Peak. As we walked up to the second layby (on the left) we immediately spotted the Andle Stone in its dinky enclosure.

We were soon standing at the foot of this benign monster. The big papery version of TMA says it's 15 ft long, by 10 ft wide and 10ft high. Pah! Pah! and thrice Pah! with multiple exclamation marks!!!!!

The proportions sound about right, but absolutely NO WAY is it that small! You can call me Susan if it's not so. As Droood remarks in his fieldnotes, you need to stand on the pile of rocks to even reach the first handhold! And John's over 6 ft!

Julian must have had on some serious platforms that day!!!!

I reckon it's more like 17 or 18 ft high. Possibly more than 20 ft. It was more than high enough for me to give the climb a miss and for John to just climb up the side but not get on top!

It commands a beautiful view of the wide valley to the north-west. Blessed with such a clear and sunny day, we were spellbound.

Retracing our steps from Doll Tor stone circle later, John and I were both so invigorated that we took our courage (!) in both hands and climbed the Andle Stone after all. And WOW!!!! Is it worth it?!!!!!! Hell yeah!

Sod the cupmarks (sorry) and Victorian etc graffiti… FEEL that view and sense of importance!!!!! The extra elevation and adrenaline add so much…

BUT, a word of warning: unless you're pretty confident with heights, don't do it! Certainly not on your own! The turn back over the edge to climb down is very awkward, as it's very difficult to see over the edge and know what you are doing.

With us, John went first, and although he had to negotiate his own 'sticky' moment or 2, was able to help direct me from below. But it was extremely touch-and-go as far as this Moth freezing solid with fear is concerned!!!!!

Definitely plenty more than 10 ft. Blimey, even I could 'dangle & drop' or at a push maybe jump 10 ft.

Doll Tor — Images

17.07.03ce
<b>Doll Tor</b>Posted by Moth

Doll Tor — Fieldnotes

17.07.03ce
Sunday 13 July 2003
As we followed Elderford's splendidly detailed instructions from the Andle Stone (thank you Mr E), John realised that he'd looked for the beautiful Doll before, but hadn't known her name. And hadn't found her.

I'm full of (figurative) disbelief and (real) awe that Jane found the Doll Tor circle without a decent map! It's almost spooky. I reckon with the Landranger on its own I might have missed it and I'm not bad at following maps.

What can I say that hasn't already been said? An immensely beautiful (now) sylvan voodoo Doll(y) casting a spell on all who see her.

I've said that there's 'always' something about sites when I see them for myself that surprises me or at the very least adds to the experience. In the case of the 'living' Doll the surprise was threefold.

The 'lesser' surprise was the cairn, which I knew about but was bigger than I expected.

The 'middle' surprise was that at least 2 or 3 of the actual stones seemed to have been repaired – I knew the circle had been restored and it's not a problem for me, but I don't remember anyone explicitly mentioning it.

And the 'big' surprise was the view to the north-west!!!! I never realised you could see through the trees and thought I'd have to try to make the trees disappear in my mind as at so many 'newly' forested sites.

None of it!!! Looking closely at some of the photos here in retrospect, it is possible to catch a glimpse. I took a couple of photos trying to emphasise it but I'm not sure it worked….

It's wonderful when a 'new' bunch of rocks lives up to high expectations. Doll Tor managed that and more! Phew!!!

Oh yeah, John liked it too.

Retracing our steps, John and I were both so invigorated by Doll Tor that we took our courage (!) in both hands and climbed the Andle Stone. And WOW!!!! Is it worth it?!!!!!! Hell yeah!

Robin Hood's Stride — Images

04.09.03ce
<b>Robin Hood's Stride</b>Posted by Moth<b>Robin Hood's Stride</b>Posted by Moth

Robin Hood's Stride — Fieldnotes

17.07.03ce
Sunday 13 July 2003
On the way back to the car from Nine Stones Close stone circle, I quickly sprinted up Robin Hood's Stride to see if it was worth an 'elevated context*' snap of my now beloved Nine Stones Close, as I had a 300mm lens with me (it wasn't).

*I just made up some jargon! Anyone know what it means?

I was very impressed with Robin Hood's Stride itself and it's wacky shapes though, as well as the views it commands.

Nine Stones Close — Images

17.07.03ce
<b>Nine Stones Close</b>Posted by Moth<b>Nine Stones Close</b>Posted by Moth<b>Nine Stones Close</b>Posted by Moth

Nine Stones Close — Fieldnotes

17.07.03ce
Sunday 13 July 2003
Arriving at Elderford's layby at 119 229 619, we discovered it was full. But luckily there is room for one car at the bottom of the lane on the west side of the road. This is right by the gate to the track leading up the hill towards Robin Hood's Stride, Cratcliffe Rocks etc and Nine Stones Close.

We didn't stop at the Hermit's Cave as there are far too many really old stones in Derbyshire to bother wasting time looking at medieval holes! (I guess it may well have been significant before that really, but I liked the phrase!)

The track bends left as it approaches Robin Hood's Stride directly towards the craggy outcrop, leaving Cratcliffe Tor (as I believe the outcrop with the hermit's cave is called).

Robin Hood's Stride is pretty impressive, but we weren't going to bother climbing it (too hot!). We kept to the track, not taking a footpath to the right which I'd guess goes out onto the top of Cratcliffe Tor.

It probably passes Cratcliffe Rocks and Cratcliffe Rocks Fort. I'll have to go back for a looksee, but today time was whizzing past.

As you pass Robin Hood's Stride on your left and the hill flattens out, there is a field gate in front of you, a stile on your left and another gate on the right. Someone has painted arrows to try to clarify where the path actually goes, but they probably make it more confusing from this direction.

If you're going to Nine Stones Close, however, it doesn't matter! Although John and I took ages to realise it – too busy working out where the path goes – the stones are in the second field right in front of you!

At this point they are about a quarter of a mile away, slightly to the left, in a field bounded by a dry-stone wall, next to a single tree.

Nine Stones Close caught me off-guard both by the fact that we looked virtually straight at it without seeing it and by the fact that it was somehow not as I had imagined it.

I knew its stones were pretty big. I knew it was in a 'good' setting. I'd even seen quite a few pictures. But I think I'd let it get 'over-shadowed' (ironically) by how much I was looking forward to seeing Doll Tor at last.

In the end I think the stark contrast between the 2 circles in size and setting actually worked to make Nine Stones Close all the more interesting and impressive. It's not really at all like any of them, but it faintly made me think of one of the Machrie Moor circles on Arran (a wonderful place). Machrie Moor II maybe.

Well, Nine Stones Close is a wonderful place too.

Despite being overlooked by the outcrops of Robin Hood's Stride and Cratcliffe at the south, in the sunshine on Sunday Nine Stones Close was, for me, far from in their thrall. On a clear day, the wide dale opening up to the north allows the circle to be intimate, almost cozy, yet in a place of space under a huge sky.

I found it strangely compelling and now want to see it in more forbidding weather. I imagine it will look and feel very different.

On the way back to the car, I quickly sprinted up Robin Hood's Stride to see if it was worth an 'elevated context*' snap of my now beloved Nine Stones Close, as I had a 300mm lens with me (it wasn't).

*I just made up some jargon! Anyone know what it means?

I was very impressed with Robin Hood's Stride itself and it's wacky shapes though, as well as the views it commands.

Arbor Low — Images

04.09.03ce
<b>Arbor Low</b>Posted by Moth<b>Arbor Low</b>Posted by Moth

Arbor Low — Fieldnotes

17.07.03ce
Sunday 13 July 2003
Since it was now about 1.15pm, we briefly thought of leaving Arbor Low until later in the day, just before heading back to Leeds, in the hope that there would fewer people around.

We arrived to find the car park and verges at the bottom of the lane very busy.

Paying our 50p each we hurried up the incline beyond the farm towards Arbor Low itself. It was pretty busy, but I managed to squeeze off some photos to replace my mislaid ones, timing them carefully according to where people were standing and using a wide angle lens to reduce their prominence in the pictures.

As we wandered around the site I felt much more comfortable with the place than on previous visits. I wonder if it was the weather, which was much more friendly than when I've been to Arbor Low before. I don't think it was the people, though you never know – there's not been many about when I've been there before!

Since Sunday I've noticed that Mr Cope said it can seem almost like a 'little Avebury'. I must have remembered that subliminally I guess, because the exact same thought went through my head. Henge, ditch, stones, cove, grassy etc.

Ha! Consciously though my thought was prompted by a middle-aged (hark who's talking) female visitor advising a crony that the 2 of them really must go to 'Aylesbury or Avesbury or whatever it's called….' Hope Pete G doesn't hear them talking.

It really is a fascinating place. John thinks someone should make a 3d animation in full detail of what the site would've looked like when (or, if) the stones were standing. That would be interesting.

If someone would pay him to do it, he'd actually be a good man for the job – he worked for many years creating 'scenery' for computer games, has a great eye for detail and tenacity to spare. He's also at a 'loose end' and I'm on commission.

Anyway, after about half an hour, just as I took the last few photos on the film in my camera and I realised I'd left my spares in the car, something strange happened. Almost everyone walked off towards Gib Hill.

Now, I've only been to Arbor Low a couple of times before, but I'd only ever seen about 2 other people make the short walk to Gib Hill. On Sunday a veritable procession had begun. And we're not talking megaraks here, but bog standard sightseers. 'Sheep' syndrome?

Which is the norm I wonder?

Ironically of course, we decided not to go to Gib Hill this time – too many people! Weird. I wonder what the blue rinses thought when they got there. 'Oh, it's a little hill.' Sorry, that's probably patronising….

As a result, we missed out on Arbor Low II which I didn't know about on previous visits and haven't noticed from Gib Hill. I sometimes wonder if I walk around with my eyes closed….

Bet none of the blue rinses noticed it either though.
On the way back through the farm we noticed that some big renovation or conversion work is going on, and observed how nice it would be to live there. We both thought we'd try to get the path moved so that people weren't traipsing past the house all the time though!

Raven Tor Triple Cairn — Fieldnotes

17.07.03ce
Sunday 13 July 2003
The entrance to Stubob's disused 'Wragg's Quarry' and Raven Tor is at an (unsigned) gate, at 119 282684, as prescribed. So we parked and hopped over it. As we walked along the track it was soon clear that this was indeed a smallish disused quarry. Didn't see any 'private' signs….

The track is a bit of a dead end, and on the way back we discovered that at a point before the track bears right, there is a fairly gentle heather covered upward slope off to the left. At the top a wire fence is visible. Go up this slope and climb over the fence – it's not too difficult if you find a post with diagonal supports attached.

If you carry on to the end as we did, you'll either have to turn back or scramble up a very steep slope. That is, of course, what we did….

Whichever way you take, you still have to climb the fence and are on a fairly pathless bit of heather covered moorland. There are many pits, presumably from unmechanised quarrying, but all the ones we saw are easily visible.


Its worth taking care though and in any case the ground is very uneven underfoot and it would be easy to twist an ankle or strain a knee. Don't wear shorts (I did) unless you have longish boots on (I didn't) – the heather doesn't scratch too badly, but it does fill your boots and socks with uncomfortable and annoying seeds!

I reckon if I hadn't emptied them out when we got back to the car, I could've dug up what I laughingly call my lawns* and had a Derbyshire heather moorland-style garden. It'd be an improvement.

*More like a couple of rectangles of weeds, with a moderately bad infestation of grass.

It will get quite boggy or squishy pretty easily too I reckon – the moor, not my garden.

Once over the fence, stomp more or less north-west. You'll see lots of lumps and bumps with rocks on, particularly in front of you and to the left. None of those that we investigated were anything interesting and I could sense John's faith waning, so we stopped bothering and pressed on north-west towards Fallinge Edge.

We missed Raven Tor (single) Cairn, probably as a result.

For a while though, we were able to follow a satisfyingly crunchy dry track where I assume the heather had burnt, last year perhaps?. Sorry, I'm not really a country boy, though I'm enthusiastic and willing to learn!

Once we got 'close to the edge' (great album!) we followed along it to the right, north-eastish. Beautiful views. I absolutely love the juxtaposition of high wild moorland looking out on rolling, lush, cultivated land. And that's what this is like. I couldn't wait to find the triple cairn!

And about half an hour after climbing the fence (including investigation of a few 'red herrings') I spotted Raven Tor Triple Cairn! I just spread my arms wide to 'present' it to John and grinned my biggest grin for a long time. What a setting!!!!

A few seconds later. I realised I'd not put a new film in my camera and the spares were still in the car…. A certain amount of swearing and gnashing of teeth followed, but receded fairly quickly with the thrill of finding this place. The photos on this website show the cairns perfectly anyway!

'One of Derbyshire's best kept secrets' our man Stu calls it. And he ain't kidding! I've never seen anything like it. For a seasoned 'stone-spotter' this is something out of the ordinary. The photos on the Raven Tor Triple Cairn page speak for themselves much better than I can describe it.

The cairn nearest the 'edge' looks like it may have been added later, as its arc overlaps with the middle cairn, whereas the other 2 cairns more or less complete their arcs, though they seem to 'share' a section of kerb. Fascinating.

I would have said that the rectangular setting was closer than 30 ft away, but I could be wrong. I didn't pay much attention to be quite honest – the 'triple' cairn held my attention too strongly.

Left to my own devices I'd have doubted the origins of the rectangular cairn, but if greater authorities or excavation have proved it 'genuine' I can't argue. I can't provide any evidence, it just doesn't seem right or to make any sense to me. It just looks randomly plonked near the triple cairn. Ho hum.

Thrashed back across the moor (really hard work on the way back), discovered the gentler heather covered slope down to the quarry track, missed Raven Tor (single) Cairn. Again.

Park Gate Stone Circle — Images

04.09.03ce
<b>Park Gate Stone Circle</b>Posted by Moth<b>Park Gate Stone Circle</b>Posted by Moth<b>Park Gate Stone Circle</b>Posted by Moth

Park Gate Stone Circle — Fieldnotes

17.07.03ce
Sunday 13 July 2003
We arrived at the bottom of the lane at 119 287681, leading north between forestry and nature reserve, towards the various cairns and stone circle. We followed the lane along the edge of the forestry. The first gate to the moor and towards the cairns forbids entry because of the nature reserve.

We carried on along the lane, leaving it just as it turned sharp left. Here a track leads up and slightly left onto the moor. We followed this track until the first distinct (but gentle) bend to the right.

There is a large patch of ferns on the right as the track bends (at least at the moment!). Park Gate stone circle is in the long rather 'reedy' grass' the other side of the fern patch, so turn right, off the track, and skirt the edge of the ferns on your left.

Follow the edge of the ferns until you are 'behind' the whole patch – you should be able to see a couple of the stones of the circle a short distance off in the long grass.

John and I were pleased to have found the circle, but Park Gate is not the most spectacular or impressive circle. It's certainly worth seeing if you are in the area though. Once more it is set on a fairly wild bit of moorland with impressive views.

Looking at the circle itself, I was reminded slightly of some Scottish circles by the fact that the stones diminish in size from (at a guess) the south east of the circle to the north west. In this case it could easily just be because the north west is more ruined….

We both thought it would probably be worth a winter visit in the hope of lower grass – though as the area is likely to be boggy, the growth may still prevent a very good view of the stones.
Moth Posted by Moth
17th July 2003ce
Edited 4th September 2003ce


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