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Callanish via Perthshire with surprise guest stones - Part 3

PART 1 is here

Stone Cold Crazy!Loadsarocks!
As you may know, I've decided to break the account of my trip into instalments to make it more 'readable'. Parts 1 & 2 haven't had many rocks in. This one has...! (I've not done all that much description because quite a bit of good stuff has been written about most of them already.)

Hearts of stone
Thursday 1 May 2003
Having hardened our hearts and turned down a breakfast date with a bunch of Eastern European lasses from Portugal (don't ask) at the 'Falls Inn', John and I instead ate a hearty(ish) breakfast at the home of the loud leggings.

The weather was looking a bit iffy, but by 9am we were on the road east along the north side of Loch Tay, heading for Machuim Stone Circle.

See Machuim fieldnotes below.

I wanted to make absolutely sure John got to see the Falls of Acharn or Greenland circle at the south east of the Loch, so we kept to the A827, by-passing the Fortingall stones for now. (Hopefully we could see them on the way back later in the day, time permitting.)

Round to Kenmore, then, and a short distance along the south side of the loch to Acharn village. (Must stop at the Crannog Centre one day!)

OK, who's moved the circle then?
Reasonably plentiful parking in the village, the walk up to the falls themselves is breathtaking in more ways than one. Quick stop at the spectacular falls viewed from the 'balcony' of the 'Hermit's' cave, then onwards and upwards.

See Falls of Acharn fieldnotes below.

AND we were lucky with the weather for the whole walk - the sun was even out for a while. Perfect timing!!!

Is that your stomach rumbling or is the weather turning?
Lunch was getting pretty close to the top of the agenda as we continued east, stopping only for the beautiful jumble that is Croft Moraig.

As we travelled, it started to bounce it down, removing any temptation that may otherwise have been provided by the 'Newhall Bridge Two Poster' or Taymouth Castle standing stones.

See Croft Moraig fieldnotes below.

On to Aberfeldy, more rain, a sandwich shop and a seriously steamed up car. Followed shortly after by a pleasantly replete Moth. Name of the sandwich shop escapes me (& can't find it on the net). On the left heading east, probably at least halfway through the town. It was pretty good!

A veritable cornucop(e)ia
Carrying on eastwards, Lundin Farm was another circle I'd visited before. I was particularly keen to see this one again though, as on the previous visit I'd had to quickly nip the dog back to the car when what seemed like a pack of baying hounds flew down the farm road towards us. (There were probably 2!)

See Lundin Farm fieldnotes below.

The rain put us off looking for a standing stone around NN900520, but I think we were just able to spot the lone stone in the field at NN921532.

Across the Tay
Choosing to miss out on Clach Na Croiche, we stuck to the A827 and crossed the river to the 'tumulus' of Pitnacree.

See Pitnacree fieldnotes below.

You don't get this at B&Q
Onwards to Tigh Na Ruaich. The directions are already well described on this site, and I can confirm that the people at the nursery were very friendly on both my visits.

See Tigh Na Ruaih fieldnotes below.

Onwards.

Nice rockery mate
Through Pitlochry, for once actually not needing to pop into WH Smiths for an OS map or 2, we soon arrived at the Faskally circle.

See Faskally fieldnotes below.

Kagool akimbo
Clachan an Diridh was next. Probably a very nice walk from Pitlochry itself (and the suspension bridge is definitely great fun!) due to time constraints John and I took the (slightly) easier option.

See Clachan an Diridh fieldnotes below.

I'd missed out on this one up until this trip just because I'd never really had the time to tackle the hill. Glad we made the effort. The return journey to the car flew by, almost literally, as we crashed back down the hill, soggy but happy.

Appin of (not so) Dull
The day was getting a bit long in the tooth, so it was time to turn for home, or rather the house of ill-trousers.

The return route via other prehistoric attractions virtually planned itself. First on the quick list was Balhomais.

See Balhomais fieldnotes below.

Onwards to Appin of Dull where from the road we took in the Carse Farm I four poster and distant stone that remains standing of the Carse Farm II circle.

See Carse Farm I fieldnotes below.

Fortingall follies
Onwards to Fortingall as I regaled John with the tale of Pontius Pilate's alleged origins here. Seemed like rubbish when I read it and seemed like rubbish when I repeated it. Must be rubbish anyway because Mr Burl says it doesn't make sense and I like him.

Telling the story and then discussing it passed the time though. And it avoided any return to the questionable pursuit of Trossach-spotting, which had been cropping up from time to time. John: 'You don't get them this far north.' Moth: 'What if they migrate?' and the like. Veil drawn. Hastily.

See Fortingall fieldnotes below.

Quick peer from the car through the now redoubled rain at the church and yew, then hit the road for the last few bits and bats for the day.

As we passed we had a look for the Bridge of Lyon Long Cairn, Bridge of Lyon Cairn and the Bridge of Lyon Standing Stones but missed them - as indeed I had previously. Have to have a proper look when I'm next up that way - hopefully in pudding loving company and hopefully not too long in the future.

Final stop was another car-based squint at the platforms and possible circle etc at Clach an Tuirch around NN725448. As when I looked at it before, it definitely looks like summat.

School's Out
Back at the B&B we remembered that at breakfast, the man with the scary slacks had said that there was a stone in a field behind the school in Killin. At the time we made a not very enthusiastic mental note to check it out, as although he was very nice, he didn't seem to know much about stones.

We decided that it could be the last stone of the day between pubs on the way for our evening repast. This turns out to have been a mistake as it wasn't until we staggered, I mean walked soberly back past the school at about 11.30pm that we suddenly remembered.

Didn't seem a good idea to start lurking about behind a school at that time of night, and there was a bottle of Bowmore calling, so we gave it a miss. Maybe in the morning before we set off for Ullapool? Yeah right...

The stone turns out to have been Fingal's Stone. Dare I say we don't seen to have missed much? (Bet I go see it next time though!)

So, to bottle for a wee dram, and bed for our second and final night in the place of the printed pants.

Look out for part 4. You never know, we might even get to Callanish...

Machuim — Images

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<b>Machuim</b>Posted by Moth<b>Machuim</b>Posted by Moth

Machuim — Fieldnotes

09.07.03ce
Thursday 1 May 2003
I had previously seen this one from the road but not been able to stop. And I’d read about it in Burl (misnamed ‘MachuiNN’ in the edition I have).

It can look a bit ‘underwhelming’ as you pass it in the car. But once up to it, I thought it was a really nice little circle in a superb setting, with a great view of the Loch below. The actual stones seemed bigger close up too (or so it seemed to me).

Nickbrand described it in a weblog as having an ‘Aberdeen’ feel to it, and I can kind of see what he means.

After lingering for a short while the drizzle threatened, so we returned to the car (precariously perched on a not-too-boggy bit of verge).

Falls of Acharn Stone Circle — Images

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<b>Falls of Acharn Stone Circle</b>Posted by Moth<b>Falls of Acharn Stone Circle</b>Posted by Moth<b>Falls of Acharn Stone Circle</b>Posted by Moth<b>Falls of Acharn Stone Circle</b>Posted by Moth

Falls of Acharn Stone Circle — Fieldnotes

09.07.03ce
Thursday 1 May 2003
Reasonably plentiful parking in the village, the walk up to the falls themselves is breathtaking in more ways than one. Quick stop at the spectacular falls viewed from the ‘balcony’ of the ‘Hermit’s’ cave, then onwards and upwards.

It’s only a few years since I last walked up to this circle, but it seemed a bit further than I remembered! Have they moved the bugger?

As is generally agreed however, ruined but far from sad, and with views unparalleled by just about any other circle I’ve ever been to*, this is one to crawl over broken glass to get to if necessary!

*Off the top of my head, only Moel ty Uchaf and perhaps views during the climbs to Bryn Cader Faner and Cerrig Caerau & Lled Croen yr Ych come even close.

Luckily the clouds were just high enough for an unimpeded view, and we spent a while just drinking the place in. Soon it was time to get moving and we returned by the same path as far as the falls, continuing down the other side of the circular walk.

AND we were lucky with the weather for the whole walk – the sun was even out for a while. Perfect timing!!!

Croft Moraig — Images

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<b>Croft Moraig</b>Posted by Moth<b>Croft Moraig</b>Posted by Moth

Croft Moraig — Fieldnotes

09.07.03ce
Thursday 1 May 2003
Ah, the beautiful jumble that is Croft Moraig. It begs to be chilled at, but it never seems to be possible for me. Maybe one day?

Having visited before, on arriving I have to ‘own up’ to being tempted to stay in the car, as it was chucking down. Couldn’t resist in the end though and the rain soon slowed to a steady drizzle. I quickly remembered that on a visit some time ago I decided I’d be ‘lost’ without the info board that attempts to plot the development of this complex piece of work!

Others before me have not left much unsaid, so I’ll leave it there. Oh, except to say that as we were ‘unparking’ at the bottom of the farm lane, we just managed to get out of the way of a huge ‘artic’ coming down from the farm, which was driven by one of the most miserable gits I’ve come across for a while.

Lundin Farm — Images

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Lundin Farm — Fieldnotes

09.07.03ce
Thursday 1 May 2003
Lundin Farm was another circle I'd visited before. I was particularly keen to see this one again though, as on the previous visit I'd had to quickly nip the dog back to the car when what seemed like a pack of baying hounds flew down the farm road towards us. (There were probably 2!)

Having a Ginger John with you certainly seems to work better, as we were able to properly examine the 'main' 4 poster, the various probable fallen stones and the cupmarked stone.

We were also able to gaze across into the neighbouring field (on the same side, slightly further up the lane) at the stones that Burl calls a ruined 'second Four-Poster'. The field was fenced off and we didn't want to push our luck!

It could well be, though on my photo taken with a 300mm lens it looks a bit more complex than Burl's description. Field clearance? I'll post the pic when or if I get the 'facilities'. Lundin Farm's an amazing little site when the canine police allow you to spot all of it!

Pitnacree — Images

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<b>Pitnacree</b>Posted by Moth

Pitnacree — Fieldnotes

07.08.03ce
Thursday 1 May 2003
The 'tumulus' of Pitnacree is described in the 'big papery' version of TMA with no pics, and is lumped in with Lundin Farm. No photos here yet - I'll have to get a scanner….

I'm not big on barrows, but it's a fairly small rounded mound with fairly tall thin trees and a standing stone on top of it. (What a professional sounding description that one is….) Or perhaps CANMORE does it better…
http://www.rcahms.gov.uk/canmore/details_gis?inumlink=26384

Tigh Na Ruaich — Images

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<b>Tigh Na Ruaich</b>Posted by Moth<b>Tigh Na Ruaich</b>Posted by Moth

Tigh Na Ruaich — Fieldnotes

09.07.03ce
Thursday 1 May 2003
The directions are already well described on this site, and I can confirm that the people at the nursery were very friendly on both my visits. Despite its proximity to the A9, the circle does somehow seem to remain very peaceful.

It’d be interesting to see the landscape shaven of its forestry to fully appreciate the setting of this circle.

People have remarked that some parts of the ground within the circle feel as if they move slightly and sound kind of hollow if you stamp.

This is certainly noticeable, but speculation that this is the result of the excavated cists may be wide of the mark. The woman from the nursery who showed us to the stones told us that according to a dowser, there seems to be an underground watercourse that goes through the circle.

Finally I’d just add that if the only time you are nearby is during the time when the nursery is shut, you can see the stones well enough to get a ‘feel’ of the circle from outside the nursery, looking in from the access road. Worth seeing even if you can only do it that way….

Faskally - Pitlochry — Images

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<b>Faskally - Pitlochry</b>Posted by Moth<b>Faskally - Pitlochry</b>Posted by Moth

Faskally - Pitlochry — Fieldnotes

09.07.03ce
Thursday 1 May 2003
To me, the circle at Faskally cottages has a similar kind of feel to Tigh Na Ruaich and is sited in a fairly similar way. From memory (and my photos), the largest stone is split top-to-bottom and side-to-side across the middle and the part on the ‘inside’ of the circle is split in two front-to-back.

The circle can be found to the north of Pitlochry, in a garden next to the cottages to the east of the A924, just before it bends left to meet the A9.

Not having read about Faskally before visiting, we called at the house to the left of the cottages, mainly because it was the only place showing any sign of life. A friendly and helpful chap came to the door and I now guess was probably the Mr Townsend that Martin refers to on this site.

(I make this assumption not least because he produced the report Martin mentioned and said very similar things about having the circle in the garden.)

I (maybe wrongly) got the impression that he probably lives at the house & all the cottages are (now) holiday homes – he certainly got the archaeological report from the house.

Whether he lives at the house or the cottage, he’s friendly & enthusiastic enough that it probably doesn’t really matter. If it’s holidaymakers in the cottage, I’m sure they’ll point you in his direction – I can imagine he might even brief them!

Clachan An Diridh — Images

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Clachan An Diridh — Fieldnotes

09.07.03ce
Thursday 1 May 2003
Probably a very nice walk from Pitlochry itself (and the suspension bridge is definitely great fun!) due to time constraints John and I took the (slightly) easier option.

From Faskally, we headed onto the A9 south and took a small turn right after maybe a mile towards Middleton of Fonab farm. From memory, I think it had some sort of ‘forestry walks’ sign too.

Whatever, keep your eyes on your mirrors, as the turn is likely to sneak up on you and reasonably heavy braking will be necessary – the A9 is a pretty busy road and it’s single carriageway at this point.

We (slightly more cheekily than is normal for me) drove up the hill and parked at the farm. In my favour, the lanes and farmyard are very spacious! There was nobody about anyway.

Following the paths (rather than bridleways or tracks) up the hill the drizzle started to set in. John was already wearing his Clint Eastwood kit, consisting of oiled Gore-Tex type long coat (with wacky thigh straps) and an allegedly separately bought (but matching!) wide-brimmed oiled cowboy-style hat.

Don’t go thinking he wears that to try to look ‘cool’ by the way. It seems to make him pretty much impervious to precipitation. Git. DRY git. I stuck on the not-very-waterproof, allegedly-breathable-but-not and actually-fairly-sweaty ‘Regatta’ kag that I had in my camera bag.

(It does have to be said however, that John is tall and slim enough to vaguely carry off the ‘Clint kit’. I’d look a complete pillock in an equivalent. And I don’t need a costume to look a pillock….)

Luckily we didn’t have a GPS (see Scottish Megarak visit to this site) so we followed the maps and the paths and found it without a problem. It was well worth getting a bit damp for too, but as luck would have it the weather improved as we arrived.

Having had fairly low expectations of finding it in the forestry and as a result of the OS Landranger calling it ‘remains of’ we were pleasantly surprised on both counts. (Has to be said that much as I love OS maps, their use of ‘remains of’ in relation to circles is annoyingly inconsistent.)

So often using a Landranger something that looks right next to the path is 100 yards or more away, and particularly in dense forestry that cam be as good as 10 miles. Lucky that Clachan an Diridh sits in a clearing that runs as far as the forestry track.

There are only a few stones left in the circle, but they’re good ‘uns – blimey, I should write books with my grasp of all the technical jargon! What I’m actually getting at is that the remaining stones and the site of the circle manage to communicate pretty well what the site would probably have been like, at least if you’ve seen a few others.

The views would certainly have been stunning pre-forestry, but Mr Bigsweetie is right when he says elsewhere that the trees do give this circle a pleasant air of tranquillity and peace.

I’d missed out on this one up until this trip just because I’d never really had the time to tackle the hill. Glad we made the effort. The return journey to the car flew by, almost literally, as we crashed back down the hill, soggy but happy.

Carse Farm I — Images

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<b>Carse Farm I</b>Posted by Moth<b>Carse Farm I</b>Posted by Moth

Carse Farm I — Fieldnotes

09.07.03ce
Thursday 1 May 2003
From the road we took in the Carse Farm I 4 poster and distant stone that remains standing of the Carse Farm II circle. Again I had visited this one before though on neither occasion did I know about the cup-marked rock.

I’ve never actually been down to Carse Farm II yet, but the setting of both circles is very attractive, nestling in the wide valley. Carse Farm I is certainly a particularly beautiful 4 poster, especially when bathed in the sunshine.

Balhomais — Fieldnotes

09.07.03ce
Thursday 1 May 2003
We just glanced at this from the car as time was a bit short, but I’ve been before. It’s an interesting if ‘messy’ site that I’d have liked to investigate further, but some farmy-type blokes appeared and made me feel uncomfortable.

Nothing to add to what’s been said except that I guess it reminded me a bit of Pitnacree with more stones!!

Fortingall — Images

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<b>Fortingall</b>Posted by Moth<b>Fortingall</b>Posted by Moth

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Moth Posted by Moth
9th July 2003ce
Edited 19th November 2003ce


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