Latest Fieldnotes

13-9-03.

This hillside is easy to locate, a short drive into the Ingram valley, signposted from the A697.

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We hit this site this morning. The weather was beautiful, the Pikes had a bit of light cloud around them but apart from that the sky was empty. and the views up and down the valley were breathtaking.
We had the site to ourselves, so the lads went off to explore the fields and I got down on my hunkers and got to grips with the carvings. I’ve found this is the only way to suss out what’s really there. It’s like braille for the seeing – if you know what I mean. The motif on the block to the east, which is mentioned in Stan Beckensalls “Prehistoric Rock Art in Cumbria” showed up quite well in the morning sunshine.
I’m afraid I couldn’t relate the carvings to the map theory, I can be a bit slow at times so maybe I need someone to talk me through it – any offers?.
As we left the site we discovered a large barn owl which was sat motionless on a branch just staring at us at the same time a buzzard flew over us and lazily made it’s way down the valley towards the Pikes.
All in all a crackin’ site, lovely rock art

Access slightly uncomfortable walk for a few yards north along the verge of the busy A169 before a right turn onto a metalled farm lane. A very short distance along this lane, the hill of Blakey Topping comes into view.

Continuing towards the hill and stone circle, the walk remains on metalled surface for the majority of the distance, with a couple of full width gates which I’m pretty sure were unlocked. Unfortunately, approaching the farm at the bottom of the hill the path leaves the metalled lane and makes a quick descent into pasture.

This descent would be very awkward for anyone with any walking difficulties, but it may well be worth asking at the farm.

Either way, the other side of the farm the walk continues on a small and reasonably steep grassy path up the side of a field next to forestry, to the ‘foot’ of the mound that is Blakey Topping itself.

From here you will probably be able to make out the stones of the circle, a short walk to the right along the top edge of this field.

Sunday 24 August 2003
The hill
Well, as I thought the first time I visited, I defy anyone who’s seen Silbury Hill not to immediately think of it when they first glimpse Blakey Topping from this direction. Big difference, of course is that it’s not man-made. But it’s nearly as weird and pretty much as striking and impressive!

It’s all the more impressive as you draw closer and descend into the valley at its foot, where a farm lies.

The sun was blazing and (it’s off-topic, but I just have to mention it) there were some absolutely beautiful horses grazing in the field that the path crosses by the farm. (Including a reasonably young foal.) I’m not usually all that much of a horse-fan, but the proportions of these beasts and the level of grooming were just spectacular.

The stone circle
The little stone circle on the slight ridge just below Blakey Topping and above the farm has a lovely feel to it. Incredibly peaceful – being so far from any roads. With the sheep happily munching their lunch, we decided to do likewise, and I can’t remember ever having a picnic in as pleasant a place.

We thought the circle might once have been bigger, but a couple of the remaining few stones didn’t seem as if they were in their original positions, judging from angles of the stones and their positions in relation to each other.

Just speculation and guesswork, but it looked to me like there might have once been as many as 8 or 10 stones forming a circle about the size of the Twelve Apostles of Ilkley Moor. But I could be way off!

Bloody hell! I just checked and Burl says 51ft. The 12 Apostles is 52ft….

Access can be seen from road. Park just outside church gate, which from memory, is average size, weight etc. Easy walk – a few yard across churchyard.

Sunday 24 August 2003
The biggest (tallest?) monolith in Britain wears a stupid hat. But I guess I’d rather the look of the stone is spoilt by a lead cover than by ruinous erosion!

Well, that aside, it’s pretty spectacular! Like one of the Devil’s Arrows after a run-in with a steak-tenderiser, the Rudston monolith is wafer-thin but slightly taller and maybe wider than the DAs. And peeping from under the lead tip, there are signs that it has weathered in a similar way.

Took me a while to decide, but I think it’d be marginally more impressive if the bloody christians hadn’t dumped their god’s gaff right next to it…!!!

Access right next to road. No walk etc.

Saturday 23 August 2003
Very odd. Approaching from the north, the first 2 stones I saw were ones with the holes in. As I’d thought when I noticed them on TMA the night before, they looked about as prehistoric as my 2 year old boy!!!

The tooling is much too noticeable, too angular and just, well, too for anything pre-iron age, surely?

They and a couple of the others did though, put me in mind of Long Tom on Fyfield Down near Avebury, which Julian refers to in the big papery TMA as an iron age waymarker.

And at least one other looks like it could be the real thing!

All that said, surely there’s no doubt what their function is nowadays? They’ve got to be waymarkers for the road when snowed under! (And so, in my opinion, whatever their age they’re unlikely to be in their original positions.)

No idea what the holes are for.

Access a fairly long and ‘fairly’ strenuous walk on a generally decentish path. No stiles gates etc. Moor could be boggy pretty easily.

Saturday 23 August 2003
Near Goathland, you can park safely on the edge of the road at around SE825108. The very edge of the moor here is a veritable network of paths, but within about 20 yards they start to define themselves better.

The one heading to the Two Howes starts off straight up onto the moor, past a ‘garden-type’ bench overlooking the edge of the moor, but you need an OS map really. Landranger’ll do fine though.

The path bears right towards a small tarn, and then left up further onto the moor. Soon you can see the mounds of the Two Howes, with their modern ‘piles of stones’-type cairns on top.

Really nice examples of (almost) complete cairns, though rather eroded – not least by people walking up onto the tops ‘for a look’….

Simon Howe and the ‘trig’ point next to the neighbouring ruined cairn are clearly visible to the south. Goathland looks very attractive some distance away, nestling in the valley more or less north of the Two Howes. The site also overlooks Howl Moor.

Access a fairly long and ‘reasonably’ strenuous walk on a generally decentish path, but with stiles, streams and gullies to cross, as well as the North Yorks Steam Railway track…. Moor could be boggy pretty easily too.

Saturday 23 August 2003
This is my kind of place. A picturesque and longish walk from the nearest road, the cairn(s) of Simon Howe were always likely to be popular with me! And when you get there, a beautifully ruined cairn, another (rather underwhelming) cairn, and to add definite icing to the cake, a 4 stone row….

Heading North on the A169, past the Hole of Horcum look out for a sharpish lefthand bend in a valley, crossing Eller Beck Bridge.

Luckily I spotted it early and was able to pull into a wide grassy lane on the left at SE857982. It’s not very driveable(!) but there’s plenty of room for parking before it narrows to a track and then to paths.

I walked up the lane for a very short distance and went straight on along a narrower but clear path as the lane bent left. This path soon bears right into a little valley, crossing a tiny muddy bit of low land with a stile. There may even be a  stream at time.

Just past this point is the North Yorks Moors Steam Railway track. Keep an eye and ear open – you just might be lucky enough (or unlucky enough) to see a train pass. I did – and rather nice it was too.

I simply kept faith and followed this obvious path for a couple of miles across the moor until it reached the cairn. If you use the Landranger map, note that you do NOT have to leave this path to reach Simon Howe.

I really am developing a bit of a fetish for cairn kerbs, kerb-cairns and cairn circles! This ruined cairn certainly has what remains of a beautiful kerb!

Decent sized stones eased back from the perpendicular, leaning outwards at the top. A bit crown or crown of thorns-like – in this respect reminding me very slightly of my beloved Bryn Cader Faner.

Just to the NNW are the remains of a low flattened cairn with one stone stood at its edge. Looks like a remaining kerbstone to me. And between the cairns lies the 4 stone row!!! Two stones are fallen and one of the stones that remains standing is at a crazy angle.

And what a commanding position! To the north it is reasonably easy to make out the silhouettes of the Two Howes and to the west is Howl Moor.

For me Simon Howe has it all – the ‘journey’ the ‘monument’ and the setting. I loved it. (Didn’t even mind the grouse butt!)

Access a bit of a walk involving a climb some would certainly find strenuous. Starts on a metalled lane and continues on pretty good paths, but going can be a little rough. No stiles gates etc but the bit where you crest the crags onto the moor could be difficult for some people. Moor could be boggy pretty easily.

Saturday 23 August 2003
Heading west from Goathland, a modern standing stone marks the left turn to Hunt House. I parked at the point where a small lane ‘dog-leg’s back to the right, downhill towards the remains of the R*man road. This is also the point where the road proclaims itself private.

The lane leads down to Hunt House farm itself, then crossing a stream it bears right, uphill. Just as the track starts to level out to head for Wheeldale Lodge there is a fairly visible left fork that heads obliquely up the hill through the bracken and past some of the lower outcrops.

As it reaches the crags, there is a path to the left up onto the moor. Once onto the moor, from this path the plethora of fascinating stones are to the left, but they’ll be pretty obvious from just about anywhere on Howl Moor itself! There are loads of ‘em.

The bit that moggymiaow singled out on this website is certainly the clearest ‘something’ that I could see. And it certainly includes the most distinctly ‘standing’ stone.

Not absolutely sure it’s a stone circle though myself. Don’t get me wrong – it could be, though as 2 concentric circles I’m even less sure! What it is though is absolutely and definitely something!!!!

One of the reasons I’m a little sceptical about the circle is the sheer number of stones on the moor that look as if they’ve been ‘set’ by man (on edge, or on end) rather than just being erratics or outcrops or quarry spoil or whatever.

I didn’t count em but I reckon there must have been at least 20 – all scattered over this part of the moor – far too many for chance to have left standing on edge or on end.

And several of these ‘set’ stones can be traced into circular patterns with other stones, and there are often vague hints of slight embankment. And though I know a lot of stone circles are embanked, this could be a real ‘giveaway’ considering the proliferation of cairns in the area. (Both Simon Howe and Two Howes can be seen on the horizon.)

So I reckon it’s the remnants of a decent sized and very cool cairn cemetery. But what do I know? Go and see what you think! It’s a nice walk if nowt else!

About 25 yards south of the Countless Stones is a turn off. I precariously parked here and crossed the road to an entrance to a bridleway to see if I could see the Coffin Stone in it’s field. Luckily, the crop had been harvested, and the stone(s) stood proud of the field, in full sight. I didn’t approach the stones on this ocassion, being contented enough just to see them, and not wanting to encroach on what is obviously a cropping field. A couple of hundred yards further south is an entrance to Great Tottington Farm. I may ask here next time for permission to actually visit the stones.

There is also supposedly a circle, or ruined circle of stones (The Tottington Sarsens) at the head of the stream on the farm. It would be interesting to see if anything remains of this site/monument.

Three very distinct and one a bit flattened tumuli of giant proportions run in a line north/south just to the west of Popham airfield. I went to Sutton Hoo recently and was mightily underwhelmed by the ploughed out barrows there – to think they may have once stood tall as tall as these at Popham! Definitely worth a visit.

This wee circle is on the south western edge of Gallowhill Wood and is quite easy to find.If you are coming south on the A93 turn left at the Cargill cross road,after three quaters of a mile take the left and keep an eye out for East Gallowhill.Turn left here and park after the house.I asked at the house if this was ok and it was.The lady of the house didn’t know of a stone circle in the area and asked me to let her know if I found it.
Walk down the lane about 150 mtrs to where the lane bends and on the bend is a four barred wooden gate.follw the right hand edge of the field for about 100mtrs and you cannot miss the circle.The first stone makes it easy to climb the fence as it is halfway under it,the other stones are flat and one is split.It may have been done deliberately.
I went back to the house to report my findings,the lady was surprised that it was there as she had lived there for some time.She then asked me how long it had been there?????????????????????.

Buzzards, butterflies and bovine bother

I visited Lacra on a glorious August Saturday, battling through the holiday
traffic to find myself completely alone on a sun-drenched hillside.

Although there is a footpath leading straight up from Kirksanton, I took Burl`s advice and parked at Po House, taking the longer but more gentle path around Lacra Bank. On my journey, I heard the characteristic `mewing` of a buzzard and, looking up, saw this magnificent bird perched high above me. On reaching a ruined farmhouse, I could see an area of stones beyond the drystone walls of the fields and knew that I`d arrived.

Lacra A was the first of the features up here that I encountered. It was difficult to see which stones belonged and which didn`t. Only two remain standing out of six of those that count.

Walking east, Lacra D was the next that I investigated and, here again, I had to study the stones scattered about to try and work out where the circle actually was. I was helped in this by a large slab which lies within the circle, possibly a capstone. From Lacra D, two stone rows are said to run, one to the north-east and the other leading south-west down the hillside.

A ring cairn, Lacra E, lies just 8metres to the north-west, but I could only make out three small stones. The many butterflies feeding on the thistles were a welcome distraction to my quest to try and sort out this bronze age landscape.

Walking south-west from Lacra D and passing through a gap in a field wall, Lacra B was my next destination. This one is unmistakeable as a stone circle, although only six stones remain of a suggested eleven. Whilst here, I was pleased to hear again the call of the buzzard and, looking up, saw a large bird of prey circling in the sky with a smaller bird, who answered the buzzard`s call with its own. I admired their encounter as they circled away and down towards the lower ground where the Giant`s Grave standing stones stand majestically, far off in the distance, before continuing on my quest.

Walking downhill to the east, the remaining stones of Lacra C stone circle came quickly into my view. Just three stones now stand in an arc which would probably have been the largest of the the four stone circles up here. Then the cattle arrived. I usually have no problem with farm animals, but these bovine beasts were very numerous and inquisitive and being mindful of the fact that I was alone upon the hillside, decided that I should play safe and leave. On my return journey, I was entertained again by the buzzard, now back on its previous perch, as it called out to me as I returned to the car.

This standing stone is about 100m from the Ash Cabin circle, to the NNE.

Only the top of the broad stone manages to make it above the height of the heather.

Finding the remains of the fort on the ground is a little bit tricky....altho’ the bracken is still in full flow so it might be hiding features.

The site is ideally situated on a steep rocky sided spur overlooking the Rivelin down towards sheffield.

9-9-03

With trees all around, there is a nice open view down the fairway to the river from here, possibly towards Myerkirk circle.

The access road to the east of the stone was closed off when I visited but at least it provided a nice parking place. To find the stone, go inside the gates past the derelict gatehouse cottage, the top of the stone may be just visible from here behind the bank on your right.

Disabled access: Quite good, part of a park / golf course. There’s a path avoiding the bank.

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9-9-03

Asked permission and went round the back of the building. Certain amount of curtain-twitching going on from the rooms above the conference centre.

The stone is a massive, heart-shaped beast. Would have cost a fortune to get out of the way when the wall was built so thankfully they left it be.

Disabled access: you’ll have to squeeze round the outside of the building into a garden on the grass.

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Variously called Portingbury Hills and Portingbury Rings, this site is an Iron Age farmstead. It consists of a rectangular mound measuring 100 by 70ft surrounded by a strong ditch up to 35ft wide. Another mound – sausage shaped runs up to it. The ditch of this mound is less well defined. Two zigzag banks to the east form an incomplete enclosure with the Sherborne Brook.

Excavated in 1964, the ditch is V-shaped and was originally 6ft deep. Finds dated to the Iron Age include a small flint blade, four potsherds, animal bones, burnt flint and charcoal. Best seen in winter when the vegetation is lower and the ditches full of water. Easy to find from Post 11 of the NT’s Nature Trail. Walk down the path into Beggar’s Hall Coppice and very soon you will cross the first banks. Very wet area so good boots are a must.

Revisited this today, four years on from my initial visit. The area round the stone has been cleared and walled off, and a small opening in the wall allows easy access. This is a great improvement on previously, when the stone was rather overgrown by various weeds and bushes. A lovely spot with amazing views to the north.

I’ve driven past this many times, and the field was always in crop. Today it wasn’t, so here it is. A simple, unadorned, 2m+ tall stone, known locally as the Grey Stane.

9-9-03

More directions: From the bypass, follow the road signposted to Charleston helpfully named Myerkirk Road. Park just on the left; the circle is on your right in the corner of the playing field opposite.

There was football practice on tonight with a load coach bawling instructions, and a flock of starlings squawking on the overhead cables. I tried to ignore them all, I felt they were all laughing – but the stones called me over. They had been a bit uncared for. The vandalism is disgusting. Sorry to say, but at least Asda may have saved the place from the horrible state it’s currently in. Keeps getting hit by footballs too – how humiliating. Felt sympathy and sadness here for an abused place in what felt like the wrong location.

Disabled access: In an open field. Fine once over the road.

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10-9-03.

Whatever possessed anyone to build a road right through these stones?!
If this was further south I would have suggested the R*mans, after all they like straight lines and were a bit mad.

You could touch these stones from an open car window. I bet some people do. Just remember to slow down first. There is space to park at the recycling depot about 50m away. Watch for cars!

One stone has been broken and repaired.

Disabled access: Aye right.

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10-9-03

After the French tourbus left, there were only two other cars here – not too bad for this site, but it was nearly sunset.

A lovely place, purposefully peaceful. The trees make the sunlight stripy. Although the site has obviously been prepared to be enjoyed by as many visitors as possible, the atmosphere is still wonderful. Spend as much time as possible here.

Disabled access: There are two large gates to allow easy access but when I visited they were padlocked. The remaining access is a swing-gate into a small fenced area created by the locked gates, which would allow a wheelchair inside, it’s tight but it looks like an experienced driver could squeeze through the space. Once inside the site, a path has not been cleared so the ground is quite uneven, but firm. At the far end, there is a kissing gate out to the road.

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11th September 2003

What a bloody crap circle.

To start with, some other people arrived at the same time, which always annoys me. There is a nice tree-lined avenue to the circle, framing it nicely as if designed that way. Oh, hold on, it was. Someone has redesigned this site into what it should look like if it was in a TV garden project. There is a total municipal feel to the place caused by the careful placing of blue-grey foreign gravel in a very regular way around what “they” see to be the limits of the area. As a result, the stones appear bored and lifeless. The internal cairns seem like an uncomfortable, tidied version of their original state. As a redeeming feature there appeared to be a genuine cup-mark on one of the internal cairn curbstones.

The site is on relatively low ground, not sure what’s there on a clear day but there were no views tonight.

I left quickly after double-checking the info board for Charlie Dimmock’s photo.

What not to do with a prehistoric site.

However, on the plus side, disabled access: Excellent! No gate, there is a ramp from the road down to a smooth grassy field, and a distance of about 100m to the circle.

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11th September 2003

As I approached, the thing that struck me most was the stones individual beauty – this wasn’t a group chosen for shape and size alone.

The first welcoming stone looks like it’s made out of dark pink sugar.
Then there’s the focal point: the mackerel-striped recumbent, the dark grey one beside with the white quartz lines, then a granular pink round boulder, the smooth pale uprights…
The size felt irrelevant, a collection of pebbles a thousandth of this size would be just as beautiful to me. Even now I am left with a persistent memory of the colours left by the stones and the landscape, something I usually only get after spending a day at the beach.

Over the back towards the black Mither Tap, I could hear the sound of rhythmic drumming (I think it was a pile-driver); this and the dark skies should have made the place threatening but I’m sorry it was just too beautiful.

Disabled access: The carpark has a gate to the path but this can be avoided by going around by the road. It’s a fair distance uphill to the site. I would say it’s 400m but it’s tarmac. I think it may be possible to get a car right up the hill lane, but not sure about the permission for this. Unfortunately when you get to the top, the remaining piece of the track is very rocky and there is a small kissing gate into the circle itself.

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The next day we took an excursion to Balnakeil Beach, Church and Craft Village. An old army installation that has become an artist’s colony. There is also reputedly to be a stone circle near here, but we didn’t find it.

On the way back, driving along the Kyle of Durness, we spotted a guy at the roadside watching the sky with a pair of binoculars. Scott pulled over and we looked up to see a Golden Eagle cruising the thermals right above us. A fantastic sight. Back in the car, I took a glance at the map and noticed we were right next to a site marked as stone circles on the map. We found the site over a hillock in the field next to the road.

Know locally as The Ord, the site’s entrance appears to be through the remains of three ditches which enclose an area containing groups of stones and a low rubble wall at the rear. The stones appear to be too closely set together to be true stone circles and areas of spoil again seem very small to be the remains of collapsed cairns. I guess their likeliest purpose is hut circles in a settlement site. There is also a low circular, stone enclosure a few yards away, which looks more like a modern sheep pen than anything ancient.