Latest Fieldnotes

I reached Backley by approaching from the north leaving the B9001 following the road to Wartle then Durno. At Durno turn in a north easterly direction, Backley is on the first farm track to the right (north). I parked at the farm, with permission.

The remains of the Bronze Age cairn, and I emphasise remains, are on the south east of the hill. All that is left is a small mound about 11 meters wide standing at a 1/2 meter in height at it’s tallest. Maybe one kerb remains along with a scattering of stones lying on the grass rise. Bennachie is bang in front and probably played a part in it’s positioning, as with another discovery I made.

Visited 24/04/2010.

Pen Twyn Glas marks the 2,115ft apex of Tal Trwynau, a long, grassy ridge dividing the Grwyne Fechan valley from Cwm Banw to the west. This is the ‘forgotten quarter’ of The Black Mountains, the scene dominated by the great Waun Fach/Pen-y-Gadair-Fawr ridge to the right and Pen Cerrig-calch/Pen Allt-Mawr, across Cwm Banw, to the left as the Mam Cymru and I ascend. The silence is all consuming, the sense of anticipation that of those who know what’s coming.... like a child upon Christmas Eve, so to speak.

Everything changes upon attaining the main ridge mid-way between Pen Allt-Mawr and Mynydd Llysiau, however. To be honest the summit itself is not exactly inspiring, being ‘adorned’ by one of the most pathetic walker’s cairns you’ll ever see and a fallen boundary stone that may well be old, but obviously not prehistoric. Then the view to the west and north-west materialises. Actually that’s not the right word, implying a gradual revealing, whereas the stunning vista actually hits the traveller with all the metaphoric force of a freight train. Not just inspiring, but awe inspiring. Can anything look so beautiful as the Rhiangoll looks today in this light? An open question, I guess.

We consider heading either left or right along the ridge.... but frankly this will do nicely today, thank you very much. Trees soften the flanks of Cwm Nant-y-fedw below, as if planted for this very reason – but actually colonising the only sheltered areas they can find in this brutal, hostile landscape. But what of prehistoric ‘stuff’? Well, there’s a somewhat denuded Bronze Age cairn a little way down the slope to the left of the cwm [see misc post], this leading the eye towards the great bulk of Mynydd Troed and, beyond, Mynydd Llangorse with its hillforts, The Brecon Beacons and, why, even Y Mynydd Du. The great South Walian Bronze Age cemetery, no less.... Diverting the gaze northwards, the reason for siting Castell Dinas ‘there’ was never more obvious.

But, magnificent scenery aside, why would a stone-hungry TMA-er want to expend all that energy – for it’s quite an ascent – for one, denuded cairn, albeit one that yielded artefacts upon investigation? The answer, I think, lies in a couple of further Coflein records which reveal that a Bronze Age arrowhead and flint (possibly Mesolithic) were found in the immediate vicinity [again see misc post]. Clearly men have been ‘passing by’ for millennia – whether on hunting expeditions or engaged in ritualistic rites I guess we’ll never know – and it’s this knowledge which, for me, adds some tangibility to the highly developed ‘sense of place’ we experience here, a feeling which I simply cannot put into words. It just feels ‘right’, you know?

Punters may march ‘eyes down’ along the main ridge – and quite a few do so, the muppets – but move a little to the west to the lip of the escarpment and I’ll swear you wouldn’t be at all surprised if a Bronze Age gentleman came up and sat down beside you. Come and ‘ave a chat, my friend. Swop me Triplepoint jacket for your quiver of arrows? Right on!

So, come to Pen Twyn Glas and travel in the footsteps of the ancestors. Literally......

Site and Area Visit 30th to 31st May 2009

Although Fosbury is officially classified as an Iron Age bivallate hillfort, it’s origins probably go back to the Neolithic, if not the Mesolithic. Haydon Hill, upon which Fosbury is constructed, is like a flattened volcano with natural deep ditches all the way around it. These would have formed ideal pens in which to trap wild animals when hunting and it is easy to imagine the hunter-gatherer culture being drawn to this site throughout the seasons.

The hillfort encloses about 25 acres and has an in turned entrance on the eastern side. The Northern side is bordered by Oakhill wood and as the name suggests, contains the remains of some ancient sessile oaks. The area occupied by the hillfort itself is known as Knolls down and contains two natural ponds that were purposefully encompassed when the bivallate banks and ditches were created in the Iron age. When Colt Hoare writes about his visit to the hillfort in Ancient Wiltshire, he states that the ponds were reputed to “never run dry” and they certainly add to the general mood of the site. One could easily imagine offerings being made here in the distant past. The presence of so many Neolithic long barrows within the immediate vicinity would point to an advanced farming community using the natural landscape over many generations. The many pits would also point to a vast storage network of sustainable produce, be it grain, fruit or other food items. Fosbury would appear to have been occupied and possibly fought over, by many tribes and emigrational groups. The Belege would have been the major influence behind the creation of the nearby Grafton disc barrow group and for the Romans to have rebuilt and improved the causeway running around the fort, may also suggest it being a special site and worthy of the investment they made here.

I travelled around the fort using the Roman road, the Chute causeway, from Scots poor. This was after field visits to the long barrows of Fairmile Down and Tow Barrow. You can clearly see the remains of storage pits, field systems and defences as you traverse the causeway with Fosbury on left. I made my journey by cycle and although tiring, it gave me the opportunity to use the ancient trackways which surround Fosbury. I know that the TMA eds have stopped adding facilities to the database but I’m going to mention The George Inn at Vernham Dean on the Wiltshire/Hampshire border, SP11 0JY (01264 737279). When visiting Fosbury, this is both the best and safest place to leave your car, even if it adds slightly to your walk. In my case, it was also the only place I could get any mains feed water. Walking from the pub back over the county line to Goudyses Gate, there is a footpath next to a cottage that leads up to Fosbury. Following this along the edge of the wood will bring you to the original eastern entrance of the hillfort.

When I visited on Saturday night with my bike and wild camping provisions, I had no idea I was walking in the footsteps’ of the ghostly rector (see the folklore post below). The bike had a puncture and with the light fading I decided to set up my hammock under one of the ancient beech trees and cook my evening meal. I didn’t see any people till 11 am the next morning but the site was teeming with wildlife. First were a pair of owls, a young vixen, then a doe, and later 2 very playful young badgers. There might have been other visitors in the night but I fell into a sound sleep till 7 am and missed them. I had breakfast, walked around the site taking photos and notes until fixing the flat tyre and leaving along the Western track, past Fosbury farm and on to Tidcombe Long Barrow.

My visit was on May 30-31 2009 and there had been considerable effort put into erecting a new stock proof fence along the ancient Iron Age defences. The ground did not have good pasture, so I assume the site would be home to “beef follow on” i.e. young bullocks who would be left to fatten up before slaughter. If this is the case, future access, although along a footpath, might be problematic. Never the less I would highly recommend visiting Fosbury, both for the views and history. Sleeping in a ditch with the wildlife and the ancient dead is another matter.

Chance

The former Church Of Scotland minister at Aberchirder the Rev. Bob Jones told me about this stone as well as the history of various circles in the area. Canmore says it might be fairly modern but he insisted that it was the real thing and possibly might have been removed from nearby Marnoch Church or Bellmans Wood.

It overlooks the River Deveron and is in prime stone circle country so the old chap is probably correct. Certainly people in the village of Aberchirder are keen to emphasise its age.

It stands at a good six feet on height. Leave Aberchirder going south, Foggieloan to us locals, on the A97 immediately turning left after crossing the River Deveron at the Marnoch Bridge.

Visited 23/04/2010.

This is a cracking site to visit. Probably the best Motte and Baily site I have been to. As you near the castle there is a phone box and a large are next to it where you can park. The castle is in a field across the other side of the lane – easily seen from the phone box. Access is via an open gate. Just one word of warning – the ground approaching the castle is very boggy and wet – even though it doesn’t look it!

When visiting Broomend Henge you can see the henge plus two original stones and the Pictish symbol stone. In the same field there is one of the stones that formed an avenue leading to another circle.

I’ve often wondered about the fourth stone and today my curiousity was cured. It is in a private garden about 50-60 meters from the single stone heading towards the now (sadly) defunct paper mill behind a fence, bushes and trees. Nobody was in so I jumped the fence and took a couple of foties. That now leaves Caskieben as the one stone I’ve to find in the Tyrebagger to Broomend mystery.

Visited 22/04/2010.

Nice location on the edge of Savenake Forest overlooking Malborough. I visited the site today and the earthworks along the edge of the hill and among the woods at the top of the hill looked like they could be Iron Age. The position on the edge of the hill would suggest that it was part of a hill fort or enclosure of some kind.

The things you learn from this site.

I have been passing cup and saucer for about 23 years and have always thought what a weird name for a road, I had no idea there was a stone there.

It’s a bit forlorn all by itself surrounded by houses, it wouldn’t look out of place in a garden centre. It’s strange to stand by the stone look up and see a massive tv in the house opposite showing the football.

However someone loves it, the saucer was full of Daffodills on my visit.

Visited 13.4.10.
Park by farm house (small layby opposite house) and take the footpath straight up the hill. There have been ‘steps’ cut into the path, making the steep climb that bit easier. At this time of year the bracken and dreaded gorse wasn’t too bad. The quoit only becomes visible as you approach the brow of the hill. The walk up the hill only takes about 10 minutes. The quoit is easy to get into (out of the wind!) and the slanting cap stone is very similar to Zennor quoit. There are good views to be had in all directions.

Must admit I didn’t notice this when I visited Brane Grave. I didn’t know about this site but it didn’t ‘spring out’ at me. Perhaps I should have been more observant?!

Visited 13.4.10.
What a little cracker this is! Visit, visit, visit!!!
Coming away from Carn Euny, just after you go through Brane farm, the lane takes a sharp left. At this bend there is room to park one car. Next to the public footpath sign is a gate. Go through the gate and follow right hand field hedge down to the bottom of the field. At the bottom right hand corner of the field is another gate – go through gate and turn right. The Grave is approximately 30 metres ahead of you. There is no public access to this site and you should ask for permission at the farm first.

Visited 13.4.10.
From St Just follow the sign posts for Cape Cornwall and then Carn Gloose. Carn Gluze is right next to the road and parking is easy. This site is certainly ‘odd’ and I didn’t expect to have to climb over the stone outer collar to get inside! It is certainly a unique experience walking around between the outer wall and the inner central dome – one I would certainly recommend. There is an E.H. information board next to the site. The views alone make this a ‘must see’ site.

There is a (half size?) replica of Men-An-Tol outside the Tourist Information Centre in St Just.

Visited 13.4.10.
Well sign posted from all the major roads in the area. There is fair sized car park and toilet block.
As ever, I bought a visitor’s guid book which also covered Carn Euny. I usually find English Heritage guide books very good value and a nice little reminder of my visit. Th houses are well preserved although the fogou is still closed for safety reasons – a locked metal entrance bars access. It was a lovely sunny day and I could see Mulfra Quoit sitting proud on the horizon. The lady in the E.H. kiosk stated they had no electricity at the site. When I asked her what she does when it gets dark she said she locks up and goes home!!

Visited 13.4.10.
What a fab site!
I parked at the farm and was happily shown where the fogou is by a helpful and friendly farmer. There was a metal railing covering the entrance (to keep the animals out) which I had to slide to one side. Luckily the weather had been dry for several days so the mud/muck from the cows was all crispy and dry underfoot. On a wet day you would get covered – take your wellies! After moving the railing I crouched down and entered the darkness into the fogou. Inside was reasonably dry and I got to the little square entrance ok. A plank of wood had handily been left on the floor which allowed you to pull yourself through the gap on you belly without getting too muddy. I then followed the passage to the ned and turned my torch off – what an experience. There were several tea lights inside and a large puddle to avoid. Even though it was a warm, sunny day outside, inside the fogou you could see your breath. I considered how similar fogous are to the ‘Earth houses’ I have visited in Scotland. It seems to me (in my non qualified opinion) the fogous were used for storage – seems to make most sense?
I really liked this place. Please try to visit if you can.

Visited 12.4.10.
Quite easy to access. There is a layby you can park in opposite the junction from the B3315 to St Buryan. The stone is not visible from here but all you need to do is go over the stone stile, go into the field and keep to the right hand side hedgerow. When you get to the bottom of the field the stone is visible over the hedge. This is only a 5 minute walk from the layby. When I visited the field in which the stone stands was full of crop so I settled for a view from the hedgerow.

Visited 12.4.10.
These beasts are MASSIVE. Must be at least 12ft high and standing about 100 metres apart in separate fields. Access is easy. Park in entrance to field on the B3315. The first (slightly larger) stone is 50 metres from the entrance into a flat but muddy field. Just before the stone is a gate to your right which gives access to the field in which the other stone stands. As I pondered these two stones a jet flew overhead – I bet these two stones could tell a tale or two?! Definitely worth stopping for a look when visiting the Merry Maidens.

Visited 12.4.10.
This is a really fab place and so easy to visit. There is a layby right outside the field in which the circle stands. There is a very weathered abd battered sign post pointing the way to the site although the circle is easily sen from the B3315. When I visited it was a lovely, sunny Spring day and four people were sunbathing in the centre of the circle which ruined the atmosphere somewhat! This is an excellent site (in my opinion on par with Boskawen-Un circle – but much easier to access) and I would highly recommend a visit if in the area.

Visited 12.4.10.
How easy to visit a site can it be?
As described elsewhere this is right next to the road and you can park in a layby only 20 metres away. There is an information board set into a wall. Stooping inside I noticed a large metal beam had been inserted to help keep the roof up. There is also what appears to be a heavily cup marked stone at the entrance to the barrow. Crawling out of the barrow I nearly gave a chap a heart attack as he was stood on the roof at the time and didn’t know I was inside!!

Visited 12.4.10.
Very easy to access.
Park in layby directly opposite sign posted lane to Tregiffian Farm. The stone is in the hedgerow behind the layby. Access to field is via a handy stone stile. From Rith Menhir you get a superb view of The Merry Maidens stone circle.

Tried to visit 12.4.10.
The one that got away!
On my week exploring Cornwall I had made a list of sites I wanted to visit. I am pleased to say I hit all targets – except this one.
I thought I would chance my arm and just turn up and ask permission to see the site. However, when I arrived there was no one about and although there looked like there were people at home I got no answer when I knocked on the doors of the holiday homes. I telephoned the number given to ask permission but all I got was the answer phone. The Fogou was not obvious and I couldn’t see it amoungst the trees. As I didn’t fancy getting ‘caught’ trespassing. I decided to leave and telephone the next day. Despite several calls all I got was the answer phone, so I am afraid I never did see the fogou.

Visited 12.4.10.
Take the turning off the A30 signposted Boskawen Farm. This is a very uneven, stoney track and if you drive a ‘posh’ car I would advise you find somewhere to park off the main road! As I don’t drive a posh car I drove up the lane and parked where the lane widens just before you reach the farm. A farmer saw me (and two others) park here and seemed happy enough, smiling and waving as he passed.
All you have to do is follow the path and it will take you straight to the stone circle. Be warned – the path becomes increasingly muddy as you get closer to the circle. Carrying a (lazy!) two year old the walk took me 20 minutes. This is an excellent site and certainly didn’t dissapoint – very atmospheric and seems remote (even though it isn’t). I noticed a few ‘offerings’ left under the leaning central stone. Make the effort to visit this place – well worth it.

Visited 12.4.10.
I saw this stone and thought it was ‘natural’.
There are so many ‘pointy’ stones all over this part of Cornwall I didn’t know which were errected or which were natural?!!

Visited 12.4.10.
Must admit I didn’t see this stone. Perhaps it has been covered with vegitation / brambles etc?

Visited 12.4.10.
There is room to park at the field gate in which the stones stand. Easily seen from the field entrance. I didn’t go any closer as the field was full of crops protected under polythene.

Visited 12.4.10.
This is a HUGE standing stone visible behind the hedge on a bend on the A30. There is a layby opposite you can park in and a stone stile takes you into the field in which the stone stands. The standing stone is about 50 metres into the field from the stile.