Latest Fieldnotes

Going for shortest fieldnote record. Map shows four cairns, only found three, could be clearance cairns. Found next to path south of Caer Bach.
Disappointing.

About a kilometer west of Llangelynin Church, a visit should be combined with that of Maen Penddu, indeed it should be unavoidable they are so close, about fifty yards at most.
Situated slightly above the standing stone and out of view of it, does that have any meaning I don’t know.
The stones, of which I could only find five, are very small and easily lost in the heather, one of which had broken so I expertly put it back together again as best I could.
The circle is cut off on its south side by the footpath that runs past it, the map says cairn but the stones say circle, i’m going with circle as it’s more exotic?
The exact siting of the stone circle if that is what it is, is a tad perplexing, it shuns views north to the Druids circle and environs, it hides over the rise from Maen Penddu, you cant even see down to the river Conwy, it is well and truly hidden amongst the hills.

About one kilometer west of Llangelynin Church, it’s a fair old yomp to the stone but just for company there is also a stone circle/cairn twenty yards away or so from it.
Standing between six and seven feet tall this is a very hefty stone, thin on one side and wide on the other, possibly aligned in the direction of the Maen y Bardd dolmen.
Stood next to the stone, only the view east is open, a feeling of being enclosed by the hills is felt, but gain some height on one of the numerous hillocks or quarry spoil and the views open out, from here I can see the Great orme, the Druids circle, and perhaps Hendre Weolod down by the river past Cerrig y Ddinas fort.
A short walk over the hills to the south brings you back to Caer Bach hill fort, lots of cairns and on to many splendid stones. Lead on McDuff.

Visited 28.5.12

The ferry crossing from Oban was a delight. The sea calm, the sky blue and the sun blazing. Sitting outside and watching the islands drift by was stunning – I even saw a couple of seals in the water. After a comfortable night’s sleep in the B+B (although the light night was strange) and a hearty breakfast, it was time to see my first ‘old stone’ on the Outer Hebrides – and what a good one it was!

Although I generally found the Uists to be rather bleak I must say that the southern tip is very pretty. There are lovely views over to the island of Eriskay. No doubt this was helped by having yet another day of glorious (and unexpected) sunshine!

The standing stone is very easy to visit and is right next to the Pollachar Inn so parking isn’t a problem. The stone is about 2 metres high and sits just above a pretty beach – lots of rock pools to explore!

This is a very easy stone to see, set in lovely surroundings and well worth the detour south from the ferry port of Lochboisdale when visiting the islands.

It can’t be much more than a hundred yards from fort to cairn, but no one seems to have noticed it before, or passed over it in favour of a more impressive site.
It is a very flat cairn, no hump or bump, no scooped interior, just some kerb stones give it away. Despite it’s seemlessly melting into the hill side, I really quite liked it. Great views, great weather, and it looks like the fort mirrors it’s meltingintothehillsideyness. (that’s my new word, watch the dictionary)

I took heed of Skins advice and parked up at Llangelynin church, a pretty little church high up in the hills below Tal y Fan, reached by a thin little hair pinned road. In the corner of the church yard is a walled natural spring, perhaps used in the iron age by the inhabitants of Cerrig-y-Ddinas hill fort, though there are other wells and a couple of springs around. Some people could come just for the well, but there is a lot more up in these hills on the edge of Snowdonia, I’ve been up here a dozen times already and still keep needing to make return trips.

From the well I made my way into the next field, directly south, for in this field is a hut circle. Alas I could see nothing of it at all, not even a maybe. I didn’t spend too long looking because I’ve got a long way to go, and many sites to get to. Orienting myself from the church to the peak of Tal y Fan, I more or less walked straight to the fort of Caer Bach. North west of the fort I first came to a stone circle, (be it stone circle or hut circle or kerb cairn I do not know) well half a one the other half had gone thanks to the footpath, tut.

This is such a weird hill fort, firstly it’s not on a hill as such, of all the hill tops around they chose a slight bump of a hill. Maybe they weren’t looking to dominate the whole valley down to the Conwy river, just the immediate locale, the path going past it is i’m sure an ancient one, an important trackway through the hills, the Roman road Sarn Helen is really close by.

The fort has ditches, but up on the fort proper there are what look like old walls, big boulders joined together by smaller fist sized stones. Then there’s that big stone in the middle, aligned maybe on Moel Eilio, or maybe not.
Nearby is a strange megalithic structure, probably natural but possibly enhanced by human hands, the capstone on the chamber is too big and the chamber too small(see Sweetcheats pics) also nearby is a cairn, my next port of call, no idea what it’s like so it could be a nice suprise, or maybe not.
So much to see, and so mysterious, marvelously mysterious.

Seeing as I’ve just been to the fort and rocking stone above these caves , I just had to come down and explore further.
Further that is than last time, I had both kids with me that time, but now ive got the place to myself. Time to find that elusive upper cave.
First of all I scarambled up on top of the big main cave, vertigo tried to pull me down but I soldiered on and got there, no hidden caves here but good views and a nearby Jackdawery .(as in rookery)
Then I moved along back behind main cave, climbed a tall fence, twice, in and out. Then came back down to the path and found a cave i never found before, They’ve tried to close the caves smaller entries, leaving the big entrance, reached along the path behind the main cave. This could be Kendricks upper cave , it is higher up than the other. But then the coflein description still sounds like they are both one and the same cave. From there it is one minute back to main cave passing some seriously scorched rock shelters one had a stomach churning matress in it,gulp. Any way the caves are here , I really built up a sweat and a hunger from scrambling around, time for some butties ....on the way to some more stones.

‘Drive by’ 27.5.12

Visible as a small tree covered island from the A815 just north of Cladich chambered cairn.

Canmore states:
‘Investigated in 1972 by a naval sub-aqua team. It is a wholly artificial construction in that it did not incorporate natural glacial mounds, ridges or a natural island surface as a foundation. This was the smallest of the Loch Awe crannogs confirmed by the investigating team, measuring about 13 metres in diameter’.

Visited 27.5.12

Day 2 of the holiday and it was time to make our way north to Oban to catch the ferry over to South Uist. There were a couple of Historic Scotland sites I wanted to knock off the list near Oban but I still had time to sneak in a couple of older sites!

First up was the Cladich chambered cairn. The cairn is easy enough to find; just outside the hamlet of Cladich on the A815 – you can park next to the field gate. Up and over the gate and a short uphill walk and you are there. The cairn can be seen from the field gate if memory serves me right.

I wasn’t expecting much from this visit but how wrong can a person be? This was a cracking place to come although I am sure the weather had a lot to do with me being in the right frame of mind! There wasn’t a cloud in the sky with the sun beating down. Bluebells carpeted the field and the only noise was a cuckoo was singing away in the distance. There are fantastic views to be had overlooking the dark blue waters of Loch Awe and a small patch of snow stubbornly hung on to crevice high up on the mountain opposite – sheer bliss!

As for the cairn itself it is approx 2 metres high x 30 metres long. There are two large stones on top of the cairn (one fallen) which are about 1 metre square. There are lots of stones sticking out of the grass. The central cist is about 1 metre square. I wonder if the fallen stone is in fact the cist cover? It looks about the right size?

This was one of those occasions where the experience of visiting a site was greater than what was actually left to see. (If that makes sense?)
I couldn’t have been happier – life doesn’t get much better than this!

Well worth a look if you happen to be on your way to Oban.

Carl is right, the easiest way to the fort is up past the modern stone circle, but no fence jumping is necessary, keep going through the childhood memory that is happy valley past the toboggan run and a path is clear to the left.
Brilliantly I chose a different route.
Seeing as I was coming down off the Orme, I parked near the halfway tram house had a quick zoom at llety’r Filiast and the copper mine, then headed over to some limestone outcropping for a look down on Pen y Dinas and some long views across Llandudno and over to Snowdonia.
Whilst there I shared the view only with a dozen mountain goats, with long impressive curving scimitar like horns. From up here I could make out on zoom the rocking stone on the west side of the fort, some of the defences and even the information board in the center. But best of all was just looking down on my old family holiday haunt, Criag y don, my dad would tell the taxi dude, Mrs Bardell owned the holiday house. One year we watched an air display from on this very hill fort, but I didnt know that till today.
There aren’t any impressive defences, but you can just make out the odd curving bank here and the semi circular hut circle up against the scarp that is the forts last defence. Near the information board is an alignment of small boulders between two big ones, god knows what they are.
A good place, not a great fort but a good place, good for watching foxes, people below, and air dispalys.
Ive probably spent too long here now too long by half but theres still one more Great Ormer to go, it’s time for the caving segment of the day. Hi-di-hi campers.

Just like the town in which it resides, this stone don’t rock no more. Well it’s either that or i’m not as innocent as I’d hoped. The rockless rocking stone is situated on the western side of Pen y Dinas hillfort, it’s about six feet long by two feet high. It has a worn metal plaque proclaiming in English and Welsh only it’s name, like a boy after school whose friends parents came and went long ago, the stone sits by the edge, lost and forgotten, poor thing. A poor thing it might be , but it still sits and watches over the north end of Llandudno and after my close encounter with two young foxes, I sit upon the rockless rocking stone and forget for a while about everything even the fact that i’m sitting in a hillfort. A good place to sit and watch, bring your binoculars.

I arrived at 03.45 am, the birds were singing for all they are worth, the all night afar glow of summer solstice was in the sky, and all was right with the world. The stones seemed to glow in the darkness, giving back the light absorbed in the day, (I know). the fence around it has gone, but the greyhound got out years ago. Photographing stones in very low light is a right pain, I wish i’d known at school what I know now, I would have got a plan, you would know me. But I didn’t and you won’t, and this is the best I can do.

If you need to be on the road by two am, as painful as that sounds it’s not as painful as deciding if it’s worth going to bed at all. I plumped for staying up without sleep for a day, but with two days of oversleeping under my belt, so after a time team or two I was packed up and the only one on the road by 2am.
The summer solstice is a special time of year, not just for those with megalithic tendencies, but just because it doesn’t get really dark. Even at two am, the ever present glow of long northern summers can be seen brighter than half a dozen full moons.

After a quick night visit to lleyty’r Filiast, and narrowly missing a police car on the thin mountain road, I was parked up near St Tudnos church and well. I love being up rediculously early, loads of different birdsong, clearish blue skies and not a soul about, excepting road hogging cops. Brilliant.
It’s barely a ten minute walk to the stones, I simply turned right on the path across the grass when I got to a left hand turn in the track, walked straight to it. Plenty of time to .....erm, tidy the place up a bit before the birthday boy comes. We want to look our best don’t we?

At the top of the hill are two large boulders which look like they could’ve once stood up more erect like. The ragged remains of the two rows run downhill for nearly a hundred yards, where the ground dives steeply but navigably down to the coast. I quickly sought every stone in the rows, especially the ones covered in gorse, moss, ferns and grasses, revealing in the process, a stone that looked like a large elongated skull with eye sockets like for a spider. They could have been cup marks but were most probably just the way limestone erodes.

Ooh quick the suns coming, I scamper back up to the top, ready my camera, ready my soul for it’s yearly dose of solstice power and set my face to stunned. The big orange ball slowly lifted it’s self out of the sea, (you don’t see that very often, well, I don’t. ) with all the majesty and magnificence that only an actual star can have, then it was over and that was it, a new day had dawned. In ancient Egypt it would be new year and the Nile has flooded, but, if I was even remotely affected by the solstice power, only the day ahead would tell, I as ever set myself as many targets as my legs will carry me too.

As tear jerkingly beautiful as the sun rise was, it is not part of any alignment with the stone rows, they point too far to the north, it could be aligned on something on land, the stone rectangle above the rows, or the Ormes peak, or something far out to sea, Morcambe bay perhaps, incidentaly the Isle of Man was very visible and distinct to the north. Or perhaps it really was for Deers to walk up and down on.

Visited 26.5.12

Ah, Castlerigg. What is left to say that hasn’t already been said about this famous stone circle? I won’t even try.

As we were in the area (Cumbria that is!) the call of Castlerigg proved too much and I just had to visit. Despite the gorgeous weather there weren’t as many people here as I expected and parking was easy enough. I walked through the gate and my pace quickened as I got closer to the stones. This really is a stunning location for a stone circle – easily the best I have ever been to.

Oddly enough though the circle itself was smaller than I remembered. It’s funny how your memory can play tricks on you. The scenery was as good as I remembered!
I noticed several areas where turf has been laid to no doubt counter the foot wear from the very many visitors this site attracts each year. Hope it doesn’t become a big problem?

As Arnie would say – ‘I’ll be back!’

Visited 26.5.12

There are a couple of car parks in Grasmere – the one you want is to the north of the village and called Broadgate Meadow. It is now run by a company who use ‘Parking Eye’ cameras so don’t take a chance of parking without buying a ticket – however short your visit. Someone I know was over their time by 4 minutes in a car park in Cornwall and was hit by a £60 fine in the post a few days later. This company takes no prisoners so cough up the £1.80 1 hour parking or try to find somewhere on the street to park – no easy matter in this ‘tourist trap’ of a village.

Grasmere is a very pretty place to visit and this part of the Lake District is simply beautiful – particularly with weather like this – not a cloud in the sky and scorching hot!

Finding the cup marks is easy enough. Just look out for the large rock outcrop with trees on it right next to the car park, behind a hedge. Climb up to the top and there are many, many cup marks to be found – I counted 35 although I am sure I didn’t see them all. Many of the cup marks had moss growing in them so were easy to spot. Most were of a similar size although there were two significantly larger. A fine old oak tree shelters the cup mark rock like a protective mother and the dappled shade it provided was a welcome relief from the heat.

One thing I did notice was the criss-cross of lines all over the panel with the cup marks. Is this natural or man made? What do the cup marks represent?

All in all this is a great place to see easily accessible cup marks and also the chance to visit a picturesque village in the heart of the Lake District. The surrounding hills are gorgeous on a day like this.

Visit – you know it makes sense!

Visited 26.5.12

As stated by others you don’t actually ‘visit’ this site but admire from the car window as you drive past as slowly as possible allowing for the traffic. You drive so close it feels like you could reach out a hand and touch the cairn. You can’t – but that’s how it feels! When driving up the A591 you really can’t miss it. A large mound of grey stone.

I would estimate that the Cairn is about 2 metres high x 10 metres across?

Visited 26.5.12

The first site on my ‘mega holiday’

When travelling up to Scotland we never go straight there but prefer to come off the motorway and spend the day somewhere – often the beautiful Lake District. This time we chose to stop off at Barrow first which gave me the chance to knock another 3 E.H. sites off the list. It also gave the chance to visit the Druid’s Circle on the way.

Once we had found the right minor road off the A5087 it was easy enough to find the circle. At this time of year the ferns were just starting to poke their heads out of the grass and the circle could be seen from the road. Although in summer when the ferns are at their full height I don’t think this would be possible.

The sun was shinning, not a cloud in the sky and only a gentle warm breeze to be had – ideal conditions for visiting a site. Pity about all the dog’s poo! There are fine views to be had overlooking Bardsea village and church and along the coast.

I was surprised to discover that this was a double circle and counted 12 stones making up the inner circle. Karen was busy trying out her new zoom lens while myself, Sophie and Dafydd had fun playing around the stones. There are plenty of erratics all around so I don’t think building material would have been a problem when constructing the circles.

This was a wonderful site to start the holidays off with and one I would highly recommend a visit. The site is not sign posted although there is plenty of room to park on the grass near the stone circle.

13th June 2012.

Equally as impressive as Stonehenge were the sight of barrow graves on the horizon as far as the eye could see.

I was saddened to see the lack of interest from tourists in the final resting place of tribal kings of old, but their indifference was my gain as I and occasional souls explored the Cursus.

I found it to be a peaceful respite from the chatter and commercial nature of Stonehenge. Sitting atop on a barrow, one can easily imagine what it was like before the arrival of roads, car parks and coaches. It seems there is a greater sense of energy to be found here than in the famed stones.

I’ve made a short film that details my time at the Cursus and Stonehenge. I hope you enjoy it.

vimeo.com/44015288

Inspired by CARLs visit, I thought it about time I got to see Lesquite Quoit, especailly as I spend quite a bit of time in the area during the spring due to its close proximity to Redmoor nature reserve.

So, having spent the day watching woodpeckers and blue tits feeding their young, being mugged by three over excited squirrels and generally having a great time deep in pristine woodland, I drove over to the pull in beside the field.

As I got out of the car I spotted a fox cub on the other side of the road scarper into the corn with a vole in its mouth. I walked across carefully hoping to catch sight of it only to be greeted by three other cubs, all happy to have photos taken...

...but back to the quoit.

It’s an interesting one as there is no sign of how, if it did, the cap stone sat atop of the uprights. Perhaps it never did, the other large stone that stands behind is too far away to have been part of one structure, so why is it there? The small stone that sits beneath the sloping cap stone, is it original or just a large stone placed there years ago and now considered part of the group?

Is there a connection with Helman Tor and its supposed Neolithic encampment?

So many questions...

I’ve deleted my previous (dodgy) images of Cothiemuir from 2004... they tell me – and presumably, anyone else – little about what it is like to be here. An irony, perhaps, since the visitor – nay, the honoured guest – assumes this woodland clearing is merely the environment chosen for this shattered RSC’s retirement.... and far removed from that of its ‘working life’. Yeah, trees and a’gazing at Madame de la Luna are mutually exclusive, are they not?

Needless to say Cothiemuir didn’t want to be photographed today. Far too much light contrast prevalent for this amateur. So I tried to capture the mood instead... something as nebulous as the clouds which manifestly refuse to make an appearance in the sky today.... then gave up and simply did as I was bid by the vibe. Lie back in the long grass and.... do nothing. Much to the apparent bemusement of a lizard basking upon one of the shattered, sun drenched orthostats. Yeah, he/she soon sussed I was there for reasons other than obtaining a rather small handbag. I mean ‘man bag’. To be honest I don’t know what I mean... Cothiemuir Wood is enchanting this late afternoon and rational thought seems, well, irrational, I guess. So much so that my recent decision to head towards Strathpepper tomorrow is discarded. Why not Schiehallion? Er, yeah. Why not?

One middle-aged woman walking her dog wanders through the circle... other than that I’m left to ponder the relationship the frankly magnificent recumbent and flankers have with the light that plays upon this corner of Aberdeenshire today. With utter wonder. In fact so fine, so beguiling is the atmosphere that it is easy to forget that this was a deadly serious structure. Somebody was interned within the central cist. No messing, this was – hey, is – for real. No Damien Hirst bollocks. Yet there is no feeling of foreboding. No shadow of retribution hangs over the traveller penetrating the sacred enclosure like the proverbial ‘Sword of Damocles’. Just the feeling that there are few places I’d rather be right now. Cothiemuir may be ‘camera shy’, but it’s certainly no Garbo. Oh no.

So... I wouldn’t say Cothiemuir Wood is Aberdeenshire’s finest stone circle. But I’ve yet to find another that I rather spend a few hours at, you know?

10/06/2012 – Parked at NJ 00433879 and took the track heading east from Dava. Visited Carn Biorach cairn on the way to Ourack Burn. Our main reason for the walk was to visit Carn Kitty but on the way back we took a little detour to have a look for the possible stone circle at Lynagowan. If just visiting the circle there is a faint track north from where the track from Dava meets the Ourack Burn. This track running north south is a Via Regia, a once major medieval road connecting Spey to Forres. Today it is little used and the whole area has a quiet loneliness about it. As to the stone circle, there is little to see. Nothing standing as the field has been cleared. On the edge of the field are two possible stones from the circle. As Chris writes in his post below – go for the walk not the circle, it’s a nice part of the world.

10/06/12 – Short walk on track heading east from Dava to cairn which sits on the boundary between Moray and the Highlands. In fact the fence goes right through it. The cairn is not very big but has a couple of cists which were revealed when the fence was put up. Fine settiing.

Like Greywether I was initially a tad confused as to how to access this frankly superb trio of standing stones... the deer fence is still there, still unclimbable, and an approach via the main road would have been in the direct vision of the sunbathing occupants of the house across the way. Yeah, that’s right. Sunbathing. In addition it’s never wise to be seen acting ‘furtively’ in the immediate vicinity of schools... people with warped minds will inexorably arrive at warped conclusions, will they not? So... for once.... I actually take the time to deliberate over the map. Should do that more often, since it transpires there is a riverside track (incidentally the mighty River Don, with great views to Mither Tap) which affords easy access to the site. Who’d have thought it? To locate the track carry on heading out of town to the next house on the left. Opposite is a layby with a stonking big red metal gate. Look closely and it incorporates a small, sliding grille. Beyond this the track heads for the river bank – as every good ‘riverside walk’ should, I guess – so continue to the right until just before the Gullie Burn discharges its contribution to the Don. Don’t cross the burn; instead head right along the edge of light woodland and there you are. Simples.

To be honest there’s not much more to say, not by utilising the English language, anyway. Three fine orthostats stand in leafy shade and invite me to do the exact opposite upon this baking hot afternoon. Chill out in the most literal sense. The shrill sound of a bell, a sudden cacophony of children’s voices accompanied by the to’ing and fro’ing of cars raises the possibility of disturbance. Yeah, the end of the school day. But thankfully it does not materialise – huh, kids these days, eh? – and I am left in peace at this wonderful spot. As Greywether said, idyllic.

I decide to approach from Oldmeldrum – although, in retrospect, Drew’s Bourtie route is probably a better alternative. Not that the northern ascent is dodgy.... oh no, far from it, a initial walk through woodland leading to a well marked stroll across the green hillside. It’s just the vibe at the start will no doubt be better. I park in Millburn Lane (near the roundabout) and walk up the ‘private road’ to Redhouse Farm, just before which a signed footpath leads through the aforementioned woodland to the left. Stiles will keep you on track thereafter across the fields. A point to note, however, is the ‘Hill of Barra Closed to Public for Lambing’ sign. However it is late May and, since locals are out and about walking dogs, I decide to join them and go ahead with my plans. Needless to say the only sheep I see are in the distance, but there you are... a restriction of such duration a trifle OTT, perhaps, particularly bearing in mind this is an ancient monument, and a rather fine one at that?

So... as I approach the summit of Hill of Barra I’m suddenly confronted by a fine, tri-vallate enclosure. Not what I was expecting, to be honest, but all the more welcome for that. The inner rampart is actually very susbstantial, the defences extending around all the circumference save the western flank – simply no need there since Nature has thought fit to create a natural, craggy defence line.

As for the views... Oldmeldrum and its industrial estates need to be factored into that to the north; the rest of the points of the compass need no such caveats. Yeah, the hill is a fine viewpoint, indeed. What’s more the stone circles of Kirkton of Bourtie and (the utterly wondrous) Sheildon can be seen in their landscape settings either side of the former’s nearby farm. It is a nice touch. Tap O’Noth is also conspicuous.... but then of course it would be, wouldn’t it?

The vibe is one of peace rising above a hive of activity to the north, an oasis of calm so near to, yet completely detached from, the modern world. Consequently I choose the southern arc for lunch and drift off for a while. Gazing across to the Bourtie RSC a wave of timelessness washes over me. It can’t last, of course.... time waits for no Gladman.... but at least I’m off to find the Deer Park ‘circle. Not exactly a drag, it has to be said.

Reconnoitring a route up The Hill of Barra (Incidentally I eventually go with that from the north) the remnants of this great RSC rear up from the road at Kirkton of Bourtie. Well, under a sky as blue as that towering above this wondrous, fertile land this morning, I decide to reprise my visit of a few years back. And why not?

Despite the destruction, this is a special, nay, potentially overwhelming stone circle featuring – as I understand – the largest recumbent stone of any RSC? [Thanks to Les Hamilton for subsequently pointing out that Old Keig is actually the largest, by mass.... the Bourtie recumbent the longest]. The field appears in early crop. However tractor tracks lead inexorably to the ring, or what remains of the ring. Two circle stones remain erect.... but they are very substantial. However it is the remaining flanker, still undertaking the role of cohort to a truly massive – hey, overwhelmingly so – recumbent which steal the show. Sundry other stones lie in a jumbled mess within the partially enclosed, overgrown space, whether field clearance or shatter orthostats it’s difficult to tell. Probably six of one and half a dozen of another. Or possibly a bit more than that... left me calculator at home, I’m afraid.

As mentioned by ‘those who’ve gone before’, the chock stones are an interesting feature of the monument. So is the extensive view toward – as you’d no doubt guess – Bennachie and the Mither Tap, as well as that in the direction of the aforementioned Hill of Barra, according to the map bearing a hillfort. I missed out upon the latter last time I was here. But then the wondrous, nearby Shieldon stone circle accounted for that. And rightly so. But now there is no excuse and I leave this massive recumbent stone – and its ravaged associates – to resume their perennial hill top brooding once again. Yeah, a fleeting visit, but aren’t all human interactions such? Need to make them count when given the opportunity, I guess.