The Modern Antiquarian. Stone Circles, Ancient Sites, Neolithic Monuments, Ancient Monuments, Prehistoric Sites, Megalithic MysteriesThe Modern Antiquarian

Fieldnotes by Kozmik_Ken

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Dun Dubh (Hillfort)

Dun Dubh is one in a line of Hillforts that top the hills above Ford and on towards Loch Awe (which itself has a number of cranogs).

There's not much left to see up there by the way of remains. Just a possible entrance and plataux. But the views us Lock Awe and over towards Jura are truely stunning.

Apparantly, Samhain fires were light on top of Dun Dubh until quite recently.

Cranshaw Thorne Hill (Cup Marked Stone)

A number of cup and ring marked rocks and prehistoric walling on the hill behind Ilkley Crags, between Backstone Beck and Green Gates.

Green Gates (Cup and Ring Marks / Rock Art)

Green Gates is the area around the Badger Stone, from Grainings Head to Cranshaw Thorn Hill along which and ancient trade route was thought to cross the moor. This area has a number of carved rocks, the majority of which appear to be on vertical surfaces. If the theory that carvings on vertical surfaces equal male and horizontal surfaces equal female holds true, maybe this area could have been reserved for male activities? It is not uncommon for tribal societies to have separate areas for each gender, such as areas for menstruating women etc. Hell, even my Dad's Working Man's Club still has a Men's room (although women are allowed in to watch football if they wish!!!!).

The Badger Stone is thought to have been the site of an ancient market, possibly 'Badger Men' (millers or grain men) selling grain at the equinoxes. This is supported by the nearby spring heads named 'Grainings Head'. The nearby 12thC market cross called 'Cowper's Cross' was said to have replaced and older market nearby.

This area is also the spring head for the waters that emerge at Willy Hall's Spout below Willy Hall's Wood Stone and flow down through Ilkley under Brook Street, to join the River Wharfe by the Roman Fort 'Olicana'. The Church built on this spot houses a Roman Altar stone bearing a carving of the Goddess of the Wharfe; Verbia.

Cold Stone (Standing Stones)

Went looking for this at the top of Coldstone Beck, but I'm not sure if I found it. The ridge of Woofa Bank is littered with boulders and I found a few things that could be, but I'm waiting for verification before I post any images.

Woofa Bank Enclosure (Ancient Village / Settlement / Misc. Earthwork)

This is a fantastic prehistoric walled enclosure, lying below Woofa Bank containing a number of cup and ring marked rocks. The curve of the wall is plainly visible from the hillside above.

Great Skirtful of Stones (Cairn(s))

A huge cairn on Burley Moor that has been badly damaged by digging. The crater in the middle still houses the (now recumbent) standing stone erected by Walter Hawksworth for his masonic moots in the 14thC bearing the inscription 'This is Rumbles Lawe'.

Nearby, there appears to be traces of a causeway and a large area of evenly scattered stones, There is also said to be the remains of a stone circle here too.

Lanshaw Lass (Standing Stone / Menhir)

Although this fallen boundary stone is thought to be Saxon in origin, I've included it here for the reason that it occupies the centre point of the long edge of the isosceles triangle formed by the Backstone Circle, Twelve Apostles and the Grubstones and maybe a replacement for an earlier standing stone in this spot. There are also hints of being a sunrise marker.

The Idol Stone (Cup Marked Stone)

The Idol Stone lies on the path from the Haystack to Green Crag, just a few feet north of the prominent Idol Rock.

It has been suggested that this maybe a cyst cover, prompted by it's flat, slab-like appearance and that the rocks that surround it are the remains of a cairn. I'm not quite so sure myself as there is no noticeable spoil around the stone and I think of it as having more in common with the carved rocks at the Backstone Beck Enclosure as they display a remarkably similar style.

The Idol Rock (Natural Rock Feature)

The Idol Rock is a natural boulder that lies just south of the cup and ring marked Idol Stone and is a prominent marker visible from many of the other prehistoric sites on this part of the moor.

The rock itself bears no prehistoric markings, although it does seem to bear something akin to a masonic symbol which someone appears to have attempted to grub out at some point (these symbols appear on other rocks elsewhere on the moor).

Nearby prehistoric walling seems to point to this rock being used as a boundary marker and it is clearly visible from the Backstone Circle. West of this point are the living areas of Green Crag and the Backstone Beck Enclosure. East lie the cairns. Maybe this was a division between the lands of the living and the lands of the dead?

Green Crag Enclosure (Ancient Village / Settlement / Misc. Earthwork)

The hillside below Green Crag (on which can still be found enclosure walling) bears a number of marked rocks including the Idol Stone.

On top of the ridge is a huge natural boulder that bears a number of large weathered bowls and cups including a peculiar feature which is a large bowl over 1ft in width about the same in depth with a hole through the rock about a third of the way up from the bottom. All appear to be natural but may have held significance in the prehistoric landscape, as it commands extensive views of the northern edge of the moor all over the cairnfields of Green Crag Slack to Woofa Bank. The rock is still used as a boundary stone and bears a number of more recent carvings including a certain W.M 1785 and an old bell shaped carving.

Below is a large cup, ring and groove marked boulder, prehistoric walling, the Idol Rock and the cup and groove marked Idol Stone.

Thimble Stones (Natural Rock Feature)

Two huge chunks of millstone grit with a recumbent boulder forming a natural 'altar' and enclosing niche. The Thimble Stones lay on the path that runs along the boundary wall between Ashlar Chair and the radio masts at Whetstone Gate. Nearby to the south are the Two Eggs.

It is quite likely that these stones had some relevance to the prehistoric inhabitants of the moor although the 'cups' are most likely the result of weather erosion.

I visited the stones on Halloween and was caught in a hailstorm whilst there... the place was just buzzin'!!

Hanging Stones (Cup and Ring Marks / Rock Art)

Besides the well know carvings at the Hangingstones are two carved bowls set back a little from the main outcrop. They seem just too perfect to be the result of weathering.

Also, if I ever encounter the person who did the knotwork carving on the western rock surface, I'm gonna kick them really hard!

Backstone Circle

This is a very peculiar site. I'd walked past it a few times before and thought, "gate posts". As previously described, a partially ruined circle enclosed in drystone walling (possibly a Victorian sheep fold). I really can't decide if this site is genuinely prehistoric or not.

The long sedge grass and walling makes the site quite difficult to evaluate but from what I could find it seems like there could be a double circle with a central standing stone. However, just when you think you've worked it out, you find something that bucks the plan!

The inner circle stones are quite low and in some instances, very square cut. Giving the impression of having been quarried and dressed rather than composed of land-strewn boulders. There is little evidence of weathering on the stones as at the nearby Twelve Apostles circle.

The three larger stones at the back (north west) of the circle are set in a triangle. Two of the stones could possibly form a section of an outer circle, but the third stone appears to be supported by stones similar to those in the drystone walling. One other stone wasn't even set in the earth, but sat on it's broad base. The tallest stone appears that have what looks like a figure 8 set on it's side carved near the top of the stone. This doesn't appear to have been pecked with stone tools and shows little sign of weathering.

On the southern side of the walling is what could possibly be a ditch and bank, or could equally (or more likely) be a watercourse. This does not surround the site and if the circles were completed to their full circumference, they would cut across the feature.

On the plus side, it commands a wide view over the settlement areas of Backstone Beck and Green Crag. The pointed Idol Rock is clearly visible to the eastern horizon on what could possibly be a Samhien alignment and there would have been good views of sunrises throughout the year, over the cairnfields to the east. Paul Bennett also mentions a fallen monolith to the south at Gill Head (which I didn't manage to find). He also points out that the Backstone Beck site forms the north western corner of a perfect isosceles triangle with the Twelve Apostles and the Grubstones, with the Lanshaw Lass boundary stone set in the centre of the longest side.

On the question of the Backstone Circle being genuinely prehistoric or not, my inclination is to suspect it as a Victorian Folly. First references to a 'lost circle beyond White Wells' come from around this period. However, it is possible that it was constructed on the site of an older monument. Also, medieval masons are known to have erected and moved standing stones around the moor over more recent centuries (Walter Hawksworth of the 14th C in particular) and used the Grubstones and Twelve Apostles for their moots.

I wouldn't say that I'd rule out the possibility of this being a genuine prehistoric site, but my gut feeling is that what is to be seen there today isn't entirely prehistoric in origin. The only way to be sure of it's origins and history is for a full excavation at the site. In the meantime, it's still a very pleasant spot to visit, so go and make your own mind up.

Ashlar Chair (Natural Rock Feature)

This heavily weathered rock lays at the meeting point of four moors. Ilkley Moor, Burley Moor, Morton Moor and Bingley Moor (thanks Dave). Cup and ring carvings were recorded in the 19th C, but these have now weathered away and no trace remains.

Paul Bennett describes the rock as an 'Omphalus' or a universal centre. It's name probably comes from it's use by medieval masons. It was also used as a meeting point for the Pendle Witches.

Great Skirtful of Stones (Cairn(s))

According to Paul Bennett the inscription reads, "This is Rumbles Law" and was erected by William Hawksworth in the 14/15th C. He originally erected it at the Grubstones which was used as a moot by local masons, but was ordered to remove it to his own land. The Great Skirtful was just inside his boundary.

Royd Edge and Oldfield Hill Earthworks, Meltham (Enclosure)

The earthworks lie either side of Wessenden Head Road between Marsden and Marsden Moor. Maps have variously described the sites as either settlements, homesteads or henges. Both earthworks are on farmland, so permission to visit needs to be requested from the nearby farmhouse.

I last visited the site during the mid 1980's and only had time to see the Royd Edge earthwork. A roughly circular enclosure about ten yards in diameter, with one entrance and now partitioned by a modern drystone wall.

A magnometer survey bu West Yorkshire Archaeological Services follows.

Magnetometer surveys were undertaken at 2 earthwork enclosure sites, to determine whether gradiometry would identify archaeological features on Millstone Grit geology and to find evidence for other domestic activity or a ditched field system outside the main enclosure. Although outwardly similar in form and function, the magnetic responses from the monuments were markedly different. At Oldfield Hill there was virtually no detectable response from the infilled ditch. It was thought that thisprimarily reflected the high percentage of stone in the fill. At Royd Edge the infill was predominantly silty soil and the ditch gave a strong magnetic signal, demonstrating that features could be identified on Millstone Grit geology under the right conditions. Isolated anomalies thought to have been caused by archaeological activity were identified inside both enclosures. There was no geophysical evidence for the continuation of archaeological activity outside of the enclosure at Royd Edge but isolated responses north of the enclosure at Oldfield Hill could have been indicative of further human activity.

Middleton Moor (Cup and Ring Marks / Rock Art)

We thought we'd tackle the other side of the valley today and take a trip up to Middleton Moor, as there was a number of cup n' ring marked stones noted on the OS map. So we descended into Ilkley and spent a little while by the river behind the museum, which stands on the site of the old Roman fort.

Middleton Woods is a bit of an uphill slog and we got lost on the winding paths a couple of times. We eventually found a style over into a field of horses, past Middleton Hall an on to the tarmac road leading up to a farm track and eventually the moor.

Lots of wildlife here (Ilkley Moor can be a little barren besides Grouse and the odd small flock of Sheep), rabbits, lapwings and loads of lambs all frolicking around like some forest scene from Bambi! The view across Wharfedale to the Cow n' Calf rocks was truly wonderful.

The first carving we found was a beauty! Three cup n' ring marks on a small boulder, the largest with at least five rings at Dryas Dyke. Nearby on Foldshaw Ridge is the Lattice Rock, another small boulder set in a slight rise under the path. The area a round here has a number of marked rocks, but these are well hidden in heather and bracken and require a bit of searching.

From here take the path west until you reach an old milestone, turn left and follow the hill downwards, over a boggy stream and just beyond are a number of small boulders set low, which bear faint cup, ring and groove marks.

The weather had been fantastic until now. As we reached this cluster of rocks, the heavens opened and we got drenched on the long walk back down to Ilkley. We were forced into a number of pubs to find the warmest place to dry off in!

The Ord (Ancient Village / Settlement / Misc. Earthwork)

The next day we took an excursion to Balnakeil Beach, Church and Craft Village. An old army installation that has become an artist's colony. There is also reputedly to be a stone circle near here, but we didn't find it.

On the way back, driving along the Kyle of Durness, we spotted a guy at the roadside watching the sky with a pair of binoculars. Scott pulled over and we looked up to see a Golden Eagle cruising the thermals right above us. A fantastic sight. Back in the car, I took a glance at the map and noticed we were right next to a site marked as stone circles on the map. We found the site over a hillock in the field next to the road.

Know locally as The Ord, the site's entrance appears to be through the remains of three ditches which enclose an area containing groups of stones and a low rubble wall at the rear. The stones appear to be too closely set together to be true stone circles and areas of spoil again seem very small to be the remains of collapsed cairns. I guess their likeliest purpose is hut circles in a settlement site. There is also a low circular, stone enclosure a few yards away, which looks more like a modern sheep pen than anything ancient.

Laid Wheelhouse (Ancient Village / Settlement / Misc. Earthwork)

Noting on the map that ancient places were nearby, we headed into the hills. First of all finding a cairn. Nothing spectacular, but the views were magnificent. Occasionally, a window would open in the low cloud and offer us spectacular views onto the loch below, or over to the Kyle of Durness. It felt like we were in the seat of the gods.

We headed off across the blasted plateau in search of a Pictish Wheelhouse marked on the OS map. After much crossing of streams (during which Shaun performed the most spectacular of salmon leaps across a burn to land in a crumple heap half in, half out of the water) and upping and downing, we spied an outcrop. Scott reached the top first and let a loud whoop! Upon reaching the top we found ourselves looking down onto the most perfectly preserved wheelhouse I've ever seen. I don't know if it has been restored at any time, I suspect not. The whole thing seems too jumbled to be reconstructed.

Castle Hill (Huddersfield) (Hillfort)

I grew up in sight of this old hillfort from my bedroom window in Crosland Moor.

The history of the site is that it was first occupied during the Bronze Age. It later became an Iron Age Hillfort when much of the earthworks were dug out. The site was suddenly abandoned after an explosion caused by internal combustion in one of the walls, about 400BC . Excavations found vitrification amongst the stonework in part of the walls (this could be the source of the local legend about it being a worm's lair).

The hill laid abandoned until after the Norman invasion (despite popular belief that the Romans occupied the hill. No evidence has been found to support this) when the De Lacy family built a castle and re-dug and extended the earthworks. It is reported that the castle was still fairly intact (although ruinous) in the 16th Century, but the site was used as a quarry until no stonework remains above ground.

The pub was built in 1812 and it is said that a tunnel was found that led down into the hill. Alas, no one was brave enough to explore it and it was sealed up when the pub was built on top of it. There are a number of local legends about tunnels leading out from the hill. The pub used to be good for lock-ins, and a few of us used to see in the solstice sunrise up there in the 1980's... but it's been taken over by a chain now and tries to attract the carvery crowd. You even get your beer on a ****ing serviette!!!

The tower was built to commemorate Queen Victoria's Silver Jubilee.

Andy H
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Name: Andy Hemingway

D.O.B: 17.04.66

Occupation: Graphic Artist

Website: http://www.ahgphotography.co.uk

I was born and raised in Huddersfield. I moved to Norwich in 1988 to go to Art School and haven't got it together to leave yet!! My interests are visiting and reading about ancient places, tribal art and society and trying my damnedest to keep as far from the Rat Race as possible! Ambient Rambling is where it's at!

Love music - psychedelic 70's rock, punk, roots n' dub and world/trancy sort of stuff in general!

Also do voluntary work for festivals and have been involved in the Norwich Free Festival in it's various guises for a number of years.

My special area of interest is Ilkley Moor. I don't get the opportunity to go back often these days, but I spent much time on the moors in the 1980's... often for days on end. The Twelve Apostles is an old friend of mine! Although I know the moors fairly well, each journey I make back there is still full of discovery. I always seem to find something I haven't seen before.

NB - Since I wrote this I have in fact gotten away from Norwich and now live in Barnsley.

My TMA Content: