The Modern Antiquarian. Ancient Sites, Stone Circles, Neolithic Monuments, Ancient Monuments, Prehistoric Sites, Megalithic Mysteries

Miscellaneous Posts by GLADMAN

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Graig-ddu, Black Mountains (Cairn(s))

Not shown on the OS 1:50K map, this mutilated cairn, set upon the southern flank of Graig-ddu, is nevertheless well worth seeking out if lonely, upland sites are your thang..... not only for the sublime views, but also for the shattered remnants of a cist matching those within the Cwm Bwchel cairn to the north. No doubt about this one, then.

According to Coflein:

'A round cairn, 15m in diameter and 1.5m high, having a central cist, which has produced bone fragments and pottery sherds. (source Os495card; SO22NE14) J.Wiles 04.03.03'.

Cwm Croesor (Ancient Village / Settlement / Misc. Earthwork)

Despite bearing the (sadly far too common) scars of past years' industrial activity Cwm Croesor remains a great place to be... in more ways than one. Morever it seems it has always been thus, a number of hut circles having been identified and logged by the Gwynedd Archaeological Trust in the immediate environs of the valley. The wonderfully shapely peak of Y Cnicht - the name apparently a reference to a knight's helmet (there is indeed a resemblance from certain angles) - dominates to the north, presenting as fine a profile as you could ask for from the south-west. The equally substantial heights of Moelwyns Fawr and Bach form the southern flank, the village of Croesor perhaps the archetypal cure for insomniacs at the entrance to the cwm. Yeah, a good place to be for lovers of the Welsh landscape with an affinity for perhaps detecting the faint 'echoes' of those who came before...

Travellers in the mood for a walk through the cwm may be skillful/lucky enough to encounter one of the aforementioned hut circles near the northern bank of the Afon Croesor at SH63834537, that is opposite the prominent buildings of Croesor Fawr on the other side of the river. According to GAT this is:

'near an old barn....a small but well defined hut circle on a platform.'

Another hut circle, with associated field system, can be visited upon the ascent of Y Cnicht's south-western ridge from Croesor itself (a highly recommended walk, but please take the usual precautions) at SH64034548. Again, GAT states:

'On a shelf is a very well defined but with double orthostatic walling (sic). The hut is built on a shelf, with a built-up front, and the walling goes around the upper edge of the back scarp.'

Sources: Smith, G., 1998, Hut Circle Settlement Survey; Bloor, G., 1985, Archaeology in Wales.

Castell y Gwynt, Y Glyderau (Natural Rock Feature)

Unlike the great, domed summits and whaleback ridges of Y Carneddau, rising across the Ogwen Valley to the north, the chaotic, rocky heights of Y Glyderau are - to my knowledge - bereft of Bronze Age monuments. More's the pity. Perhaps Bronze Age man did, indeed, bury his dead here, the remnants of cairn now unrecognisable, scattered within boulder fields created by the inexorable action of permafrost? Perhaps, but I think not... for what it's worth, I reckon Nature had endowed these summits with striking monuments of her own so enigmatic that our forebears simply decided not to meddle with the status quo. Proto-temples....

First amongst these natural 'monuments' is surely Tryfan itself, the 'three-peaked' dragon back crowned by two perfect monoliths, to all the world placed by supernatural forces... OK, at least 'super natural'. However there is another rock feature which is arguably even more striking, the prosaically named Castell y Gwynt.... 'Castle of the Winds'. Rising between the main summits of Glyder Fach and Glyder Fawr at 3,189ft (972m) this brutal, incredible tor of shattered rock formations seems to embody the very 'essence', the true spirit of whatever metaphysically-induced emotions us humans experience when upon the high places... a potent cocktail of fear, awe, wonder, elation, alacrity, fatigue... and a myriad others.

Thomas Pennant wrote in 1781: "Numerous groupes (sic) of stones are placed almost erect, sharp-pointed in sheafs: all are weather-beaten, time eaten and honey-combed, and of a venerable grey-colour. The elements seem to have warred against this mountain: rains have washed, lightnings torn, the very earth deserted it, and the winds have made it the constant object of their fury".

The 'battlements' of Castell y Gwynt have withstood the assault to date - although the siege will, of course, be decided in favour of the inclemental elements one day - and stand overlooking a small stone circle set, half submerged, beside the shoreline of Llyn Cwmffynnon to the approx south. There are other monuments upon the floor of Dyffryn Mymbyr and gracing the surrounding hills beyond, not least a Bronze Age cairn upon Moel Siabod. It may therefore seem odd that Y Glyderau possesses such paucity. However I am inclined to think that was the whole point, the complete absence too obvious, intentional.... that this was, indeed, considered the realm of the gods.

Llyn Conwy (Cairn(s))

Llyn Conwy is the primary source of the enigmatic river discharging into the Irish Sea between the medieval walled fortress town of Conwy and the ancient copper mines of the Great Orme... the ethereal upland lake (1,488ft) the temporary repository of the input of numerous small streams draining the Migneint boglands north of Penmachno. Great Bronze Age cairns crown the skyline peaks of Arenig Fach (Carnedd y Bachgen) and Arenig Fawr (Moel yr Eglwys) to the south-east, rising above what is surely one of North Wales' most inhospitable landscapes when the not infrequent mists/rains sweep in.

The immediate environment of Llyn Conwy is endowed with several cairns of its own, two of which are cited by a local estate representative and the Gwynedd Archaeological Trust (PRN 6047) as being of probable prehistoric origin [Latham, J., 1988, Ysbytty Estate; Smith,G., 2002, Prehistoric Funerary and Ritual Monuments: West Conwy / North Gwynedd]. To my mind such provenance would not be surprising at the birthplace of a mighty river.

The cairn at SH77544579 is well placed upon Bryn Owen overlooking the south-western corner of the lake. Another is given at SH78554614 near the eastern shore.... however I assumed this to refer to the cairn upon the small island just within the lake at this point.... whether they are one and the same I therefore unfortunately cannot confirm.

Incidentaly GAT also mention a 'possible' prehistoric ring at SH77864713, that is a little below the summit of Pen y Bedw to the north:

'U-shaped wall of piled stones just below the summit of Pen y Bedw. May be a prehistoric stone circle, such as a kerb cairn'. [Source: Smith,G., 2002, Prehistoric Funerary and Ritual Monuments: West Conwy/North Gwynedd]

Archaeology aside, a visit to Llyn Conwy should, in my opinion, feature upon the itinerary of any traveller interested in the sacred landscapes of North Wales. River sources always have that 'special atmosphere' which mere words can never define. The lake would appear to be most easily approached via Llyn Cottage on B4407 (never tried this route), that is just east of the Pont ar Gonwy, where the fledgling river begins to gather form for the journey ahead. However I would recommend taking the public footpath leaving the (very) minor road near Haodfyredwydd to the west. It is possible to park a car a little south (uphill) of the latter. For awareness please note that this road, a favourite shortcut of locals, can be very intimidating / dangerous in poor conditions, the ground falling away very sharply to the floor of Cwm Hafodyredwydd below. I managed to just evade slithering over the edge one icy winter..... so please stay safe.

Drws-y-Coed (Ancient Village / Settlement / Misc. Earthwork)

Gwynedd Archaeological Trust records (PRN 2787) note the following regarding this scheduled prehistoric settlement, dramatically sited beneath the southern flank of Mynydd Mawr, the spectacular crags of Craig y Bera:

'The monument stands in traditional upland sheep pasture, on a level terrace beneath Mynydd Mawr in the Nantlle valley, close to the 18th and 19th century copper workings at Drws-y-coed.

The settlement includes at least five circular huts dating from the IA or RB period and is particularly well-preserved. Some stone has been taken to build the sheepfold nearby but three of the huts remain clearly visible and another two are readily identified. The foundations of further huts could survive below present ground level. Stony banks and lines of boulders define small field plots or paddocks associated with the settlement. The site therefore, represents an almost complete example of a settlement of this date and has a high archaeological potential. The possibility that the site was associated with early exploitation of the known copper course nearby enhances its importance.'

Source: Cadw, 1992, Scheduling Info Cn209

Y Garn, north-eastern terminus of the wondrous Nantlle Ridge, rises above to the south, crowned by two massive Bronze Age cairns (incidentally Mynydd Mawr also possesses a large monument of this type). To the west the Afon Drws-y-Coed flows through Dyffryn Nantlle toward Llyn Nantlle Uchaf, where Richard Wilson once set up his easel; to the east stands Yr Eryri itself - the Snowdon Massif. Quite a spot to make your home, then.

Trum y Ddysgl (Ancient Village / Settlement / Misc. Earthwork)

The Gwynedd Archaelogical Trust have identified a hut circle located.... well..... exquisitely upon the northern flank of Trum y Ddysgl (The 'Ridge of the Dish') a summit of the wondrous Nantlle Ridge (in the interests of objectivety, note that I am somewhat biased here.... ). The site lies quite a way below the airy 2,329ft summit, so needless to say requires quite a diversion. I haven't made this myself, (to be fair) the result of ignorance rather than neglect of duty. But what an unbelievable, utterly extreme place to live! The mind truly reels at the very thought of it. Right on! The relevant GAT PRN is 6607:

'A hut circle, c.11m in diameter, located on a small ridge with excellent views eastwards along the Nantlle Valley. The site consists of low (0.3m high) wide stony banks, no entrance is visible although the site is partly obscured by rushes. The remains of a possible enclosure wall runs off from the hut circle to the SE. At the SE end of this there may be a small sub-rectangular feature (c.2m x 2m). There are two post-medieval drainage ditches, one just below the hut and one above it'

Source: Jones, S., 1996

Note that an ascent via Y Garn to the east would engender a visit to two very substantial Bronze Age cairns en route... as well as much else. But please... please.... take great care when negotiating the crags of Mynydd Drws-y-Coed.

Llyn yr Adar (Cist)

Located to the north of the wondrous Y Cnicht... so named because it was said to resemble a knight's helmet from a certain angle... this, the 'Bird Lake', is arguably one of the most 'vibey' upland llyns in all Snowdonia, set at an altitude of 1,886ft. Travellers are - to my knowledge - few and far between here, only the occasional 'loner' heading toward the even more splendid Llyn Edno, where seagulls are, it seems, apt to 'dive bomb' visitors venturing too close to the nest. This man, however, is not as 'enlightened ' as he may like to think... sure, the vision of the multiple summits of Ysgafell Wen rising above the far shore, the latter reflected in the still waters, brings a lump to my throat. But nevertheless I am ignorant of the existance of a cist beneath the far crag across the placid surface; not to mention that of an (apparent) monolith - now fallen - upon the minature islet set within the lake. Yeah, by all accounts there are local 'eye witness reports' affirming it once stood erect. There is even an apparent hut circle to the east at SH66604810. 'OK, but since you blundered past like a tit in a trance, overwhelmed by the landscape, where is the evidence?', you might quite rightly ask. Well, as usual, our friends at the Gwynedd Archaelogical Trust have been out and about... PRNs 3985, 3986 and 3988 are the relevant records here.

Sources for the cist and hut circle are:

Smith, G., 1998, Hut Circle Settlement Survey.
Sherriff, A., 1983, PRN 3990,

With regards the (possible) standing stone:

'The island is a very small hummock although grassed over. Only the west side could be seen from the shore and there was no standing stone visible and the island is so small it would be unlikely to be anywhere except on the summit. There is a slab lying there which if seen close up might be seen as a fallen standing stone but from a distance could not be identified as such. Possibly it was standing when first observed. The original informant was contacted, who said the stone was easily visible, so must now have fallen, or been pushed over.....'

Sources:
Smith, G., 2003 , Prehistoric Funerary and Ritual Monument Survey: West Gwynedd & Anglesey.
Sherriff, A., 1983, PRN 3990.

As inferred above, Llyn yr Adar is a relatively obscure, isolated location, certainly not an easy visit for the average person (normal mountain rules apply). However if this sounds your bag, take the minor road heading steeply for Blaen Nanmor at Bethania Bridge, that is between the beautiful lakes of Llyn Gwynant and Llyn Dinas. There is parking available beside the entrance to the dwelling at Gelli Iago, from where a soggy track ascends to the excellent Llyn Llagi cradled beneath a fine cliff-line. Venture further up the path to the left and the 'Bird Lake' will be yours. And most probably only yours. Needless to say I wasn't aware what treasures our forebears had left behind at this exquisite spot. Hopefully you are better informed.

Llyn Stwlan, Moelwyns (Ancient Village / Settlement / Misc. Earthwork)

The mountains of Moelwyn Mawr (2,527ft) and Moelwyn Bach (2,334ft) dominate the old slate mining town of Blaneau Ffestiniog, their gaunt profiles familiar to motorists travelling south along the A470 from the Snowdonian heartlands toward Dolgellau and Cadair Idris. The 'sisters' do not bask in the same popular glow of appreciation duly accorded other peaks by the outdoor fraternity... quarrying and industrial spoil suffice to ensure the area remains somewhat of an acquired taste. Nevertheless an ascent from the charming village of Croesor to the west offers, in my opinion, a fine day out.

Unfortunately there are no ancient cairns crowning the high ground to add to the vibe.... or at least to my knowledge. However - according to the archaeologist Peter Crew - traces of our prehistoric forebears still remain in the form of their round houses. One such has been identified by Mr Crew upon the crag overlooking the northern shore of Llyn Stwlan, the lake now functioning as a reservoir, presumably for Blaneau Ffestioniog. It would appear a 1998 survey by The Gwynedd Archaeological Trust (PRN 1501) found no grounds for objection.

References: Crew, P., 1982, Porthmadog & Ffestiniog Local Plan - SH64SE; Smith, G., 1998, Hut Circle Settlement Survey.

Llyn Ogwen (Ancient Village / Settlement / Misc. Earthwork)

Here's an obscure one... although if it had have been sited on the southern shore of Llyn Ogwen, it probably wouldn't have been. Yeah, set upon the northern shore of the beautiful lake, Pen yr Oleu Wen towering immediately above, the incomparable Tryfan rising across the water, there can surely have been few more intoxicating places to live, assuming the occupants were 'in tune' with the landscape. Few more brutal, too, particularly when the winter storms rage. And somewhat at risk from rock falls, one would have thought? Although not marked on the OS map, the Gwynedd Archaeological Trust people have neverthless paid a visit - as you would expect - and reckon it is most probably the real deal. To quote from their notes (PRN 5008):

'Massive walls and a neatly levelled interior suggest that the rectangular structure discovered N of Llyn Ogwen originally functioned as a habitation site. The surviving masonry is about 1m wide and 1.5m high and the walls incorporate large boulder. Externally the site measures 5m by 8.5m. The most striking aspect of this structure is that it is bisected by what appears to be the continuation of the packhorse trail described at the W end of Llyn Ogwen. Stones from the walls have been used to mark the edge of the track as it passes through the house and for 8m on either side. Gaps 2 to 2.5m wide have been cut in the walls of the house so the original entrance has been obscured and there is no evidence of any other internal features'. [Sources: Smith, G. , 1998 , Hut Circle Settlement Survey; Latham, J. & Plunkett Dillon, E. , 1986 , Archaeology in Wales].

So there you are. A public footpath follows the north bank of the llyn, accessible from both ends. Worth a wander, perhaps?

Mynydd Moel, Cadair Idris (Cairn(s))

Mynydd Moel (2,804ft / 863m) is the eastern of the central summits of Cadair Idris, that wondrous mountain ridge rising more or less straight from the sea south of the beautiful Mawddach Estuary. Numerous lakes flank the massif at varying altitudes... creating, it may well be argued, an ideal landscape context for the siting of Bronze Age funerary cairns. Hence I've alway been a bit perplexed that none of the cairns crowning the main Cadair Idris peaks have been historically assigned an ancient origin (as opposed to the lower summits further to the west). Having said that the mountain is very popular with walkers, the cairns badly damaged. Unfortunately such judgements tend to be taken at face value... when what is required are inquiring minds driven by the evidence on the ground! (he says, hanging a guilty head in shame). But what views regardless!

It was therefore with considerable interest that I happened to browse Gwynedd Archaeological Trust (GAT) records and note the following, particularly the reference to 'an arc of kerb to SW' (PRN 4768):

'A cairn stands on Mynydd Moel, 10m to the SE of the highest point at 855m on the edge of steep crags. It comprises 'a low spread of stone, 15m diameter, heavily rebuilt to give a rectangular shelter, but with an arc of kerb on the SW and a stretch of 1m high facing formed by large stones set as headers filling a shallow gully to the NE'. [Sources: Crew, P. , 1980 , Archaeology in Wales; Smith, G. , 2001 , Prehistoric Funerary and Ritual Sites Survey: Meirionnydd].

Looks like TMA needs some close-ups for confirmation, then.....

Tal-y-Llyn

According to GAT (PRN 4699) Carn Arthur, a possible Crannog, can be found a little beyond the (current) south-western end of Llyn Mwyngil at SH71000900 - that is where the Afon Dysynni makes a loop near a weir:

'Stony mound.....referred to in a reliable C19th account as being visible at low water and a good place to fish'. Sources: Peterson, R. & Roberts, J. G. , 1989 , Archaeology in Wales.

Haven't seen it myself.

Llyn Cerrig-bach

Sited, perhaps significantly, toward the southern end of the channel separating 'mainland' Anglesey from the 'holy island' to the west, Llyn Cerrig-bach - the source location of Wales' most extensive ancient hoard of metal artefacts - lacks the mountain landscape drama of the other primary hoard sites at Llyn Fawr (Glamorgan) and (near) Tal-y-Llyn, Cadair Idris. Nevetheless the finds recovered here during 1942, the result of peat extraction during the construction of RAF Valley airfield, make the site of fundamental importance to any understanding of the Celtic culture of Iron Age Wales.

The collection includes in excess of 150 items fashioned from both iron and bronze (as at the Llyn Fawr), the most poignant perhaps being two 'slave chains' apparently initially used by the workmen for dragging lorries out of the mud! Then again, give them a break; how were they to have known? A case of extreme experimental archaeology in action, methinks. Aside from this reminder of the appalingly harsh reality of Iron Age life, the collection also features no less than 7 swords, 6 spearheads, a piece of a shield, trumpet.... even some equestrian stuff.

It is tempting to equate the deposit of such an important votive offering (surely it must have been ritualistic?) with a desperate request for supernatural assistance against the Roman legions poised across the Menai Straits filled with murderous intent .... if so, it didn't work!

The Llyn Cerrig-bach hoard is now kept at The National Museum of Wales... further details at:
http://www.museumwales.ac.uk/en/2363/

Tal-y-Llyn

There have been - to my knowledge - three major discoveries of Iron Age hoards in Wales to date: namely within the Llyn Fawr above The Rhondda... at Llyn Cerrig Bach, Anglesey..... and here-abouts.

The Llyn Fawr is strikingly evocative and Anglesey is, well, Anglesey; however the southern flank of Cadair Idris rising above Llyn Mwyngil (better known - unfortunately for those with due respect for the vernacular grammar - as Tal-y-Llyn Lake) is, in my opinion, a truly classic location of stunning aesthetic appeal, the craggy mountainside sweeping elegantly - albeit with a maverick 'roughness' anticipating the heights of central Snowdonia further north - down to lakeside from near enough 3,000ft. It's a disappointment to note that the metal alloy artefacts deposited here were not actually recovered from the depths of the lake - as in Authurian lore - but from the nearby crags in 1963 (I understand in the vicinity of the Nant Cadair, outflow of the utterly wondrous Llyn Cau), hidden beneath a boulder... hence casting significant doubt as to whether the hoard represented a votive offering to the Celtic gods, or ill gotten gains stashed.... and never reclaimed. Hey, perhaps retrieved from the llyn by an unscrupulous rogue in search of a quick profit? (or, an intriguing thought.... was the primary origin actually Llyn Cau?) Who knows. Who will ever know? I reckon the latter, myself, bearing in mind the piece of 'lock'. Still, the treasures now reside in The National Museum of Wales, Cardiff. So go see 'em, if you get the chance. But remember where they came from. Oh yes. The landscape that inspired the vision. And how...

Of primary interest is a trapezoid brass 'repousse' plaque, (according to the experts at the museum) apparently designed as one of a pair, representing a human face with 'staring eyes, and finely combed hair, an image of striking quality'. The hoard also contained 'fragments from two shields', including a boss, some plates, perhaps originating from a 'ceremonial cart'... and 'part of a Roman lock'. However, the quality of workmanship notwithstanding, it is where the metalwork came from that, for me, engenders such interest, the salient detail that ensures such vitality of design and form 'means what it says on the tin' - or brass - that this was for real. If you should happen to find yourself standing at water's edge here... take a long, lingering look at the rocky heights to left and right... note the chasm in the cliff line above Minffordd where flows the Nant Cadair.... and the high bwlch of Llyn Bach carrying the road toward Dolgellau to the north-east... and see what you think? Better still, put on the boots and have a wander up to Cwm Cau.

Incidentally a colour image of the plaque can be appreciated at:
http://www.museumwales.ac.uk/en/2352/

Cader Berwyn cairn II (Cairn(s))

Coflein quotes the following stats for this dramatically sited round cairn crowning the precipitous southern summit - at 2,723ft to my mind the 'true' summit - of Cadair Berwyn:

'A round cairn, 24-22m in diameter and 1.5m to the top of a sheep-shelter superimposed upon it. Set on the extreme edge of a precipice that falls away on the E.... [(source Os495card; SJ03SE7) RCAHMW AP955008/66; 965041/44-5 J.Wiles 26.09.02].'

Note that these details were subsequently confirmed by A.C.K. Roseveare and N.A.R. Vaughan on 29/03/2007. Which is always good to hear. Incidentally CPAT (PRN 101976) cites a possible subsiduary cairn '8.0m by 4.0m and 0.3m high' located 'About 10m to the NW...'

The location is truly classic, overlooking Llyn Lluncaws, the outflow of which - the Nant-y-Llyn (prosaic in name if not by nature) - subsequently joins the Afon Rhaeadr below the awe inspiring Pistyll Rhaeadr waterfall. There is a further large round cairn some way to the north, surmounted by an OS trig pillar, albeit fractionally lower at 2,713ft (827m). The 'standard approach' to Cadair Berwyn, if such a term can ever be applied to such a landscape, is to follow the Nant-y-Llyn back to its source and ascend the cliff line to Moel Sych, descending southwards - perhaps with a diversion to the Rhos y Beddau sites - to the falls when you can tear yourself away.... or vice versa, of course.

Finally note that the massive 'platform cairn' of Brwdd Arthur (Arthur's Table) lies upon Cadair Bronwen to the north, beyond Bwlch Maen Gwynedd. Please bear in mind that it is a substantial linear diversion from here... a separate ascent from the north-west, via the wondrous cairn circle of Moel ty Uchaf and the 'circle at Bwlch y Fedw, is therefore recommended if itineraries - and weather! - allow....

Suilven (Sacred Hill)

The name of this isolated peak, rising abrupty from the watery wilderness between the wondrous Inverpolly Forest and Assynt, is said to have come from the Norse for 'Pillar Mountain', no doubt a reference to its full-on profile from the coast. However our very own resident Arch-drude asserts in his legendary day-glo tome (Page 83) that it derides from Suil, the 'Eye Goddess', also manifesting herself in that greatest of all artificial hills... Silbury itself.... directing the maternal gaze upon the passing traveller. Consequently I believe it deserves a place in this on-line community version of the said work.

At 2,398ft (731m) Suilven resides very far down the list of Scottish mountains in terms of height; however I doubt if there is a more distinctive, enigmatic mountain in all of Alba, certainly when viewed from the coastal town of Lochinver to approx north-west, the then conical profile overwhelming the senses with its sheer otherworldly intensity. In short, it is everything a Mother Hill should be. Despite its 'lack' of elevation it requires, by all accounts, a c25km round wilderness walk to ascend, something unfortunately now beyond my fitness levels, I guess forever. But hey, a profile like that simply begs to be seen any-which-way you can.

Here's to Mother Nature continuing to inspire, invigorate and - sometimes - scare the living daylights out of us.... as she always has done.

Turnhouse Hill Cairn (Cairn(s))

Wonderfully sited at the summit of Turnhouse Hill, to the north-east of Carnethy Hill's massive example, Canmore gives the dimensions of this cairn as c12.7m in diameter, rising to a height of c0.4m with 'a clearly-defined internal robbing-scar on the SW' [R Mowat and D R Easton, 13 November 1993].

Turnhouse Hill (Hillfort)

I was actually planning to visit this enclosure back in May, following an ascent of Carnethy Hill from the south... only for the vision of the onward route to Scald Law - and an apparent large cairn upon South Black Hill - to call the louder. Some other time, then.

Anyway Canmore records the following:

'Part of a palisaded enclosure is visible within the earthwork that crowns the prominent hill to the SE of Turnhouse Hill. The enclosure was probably roughly circular, measuring about 30m in diameter, but the palisade trench is clearly defined only on the N. The earthwork measures 85m by 60m within a rampart and ditch, and there are entrances on the NE and SW. Where best-preserved, the rampart stands up to 1.7m above the bottom of the ditch, but to the S of the field-wall that cuts across the earthwork the defences have been reduced to a scarp by cultivation. Within the interior the positions of at least nine timber houses can be identified, two of them exceptionally well-preserved ring-ditch houses about 13m in overall diameter. (P Hill 1982; RCAHMS 1988).'

Crugian Bach (Stone Circle)

There is a lot more occuring here - in this unfeasibly quiet corner of the Elanydd - than I ever imagined. Yeah, a veritable prehistoric ritual metropolis! According to the local CPAT people, logged under reference PRN55289, the area represents:

[A]'Concentration of prehistoric activity with around ten standing stones, a stone circle, a cairnfield... and three individual round barrows (cairns). The standing stones, seven of which are recumbent, range from 0.8m to 3.3m in length. The stone circle comprises of eighteen stones, with a large flat stone at the centre. It has a diameter of 22m with stones set 3-3m apart. All but two are recumbent. The cairnfield incorporates nine or more cairns and is aligned roughly SW-NE along a terrace.'

Afon Hyddgen Standing Stones

Located not far from the four stone row.... and a little to the approx south west of the wondrous quartzite Cerrig Cyfammod Glyndwr, Coflein records the following:

'Two upright stones standing 4.7m apart, on a northeast-southwest alignment. The southwest stone is the larger of the pair, being 0.75m high x 0.5m x 0.45m. The northeastern stone is 0.45m high x 0.45m x 0.35m. R.P. Sambrook, Trysor, 6 January 2006'

Coflein also notes that CPAT found a third, recumbent stone between the pair in 2002... but consider this to be a possible natural feature.

Afon Hyddgen, Pumlumon (Stone Row / Alignment)

As mentioned in my fieldnotes for the Cerrig Cyfammod Glyndwr I unfortunately ran out of time to see either these stones or the pair at SN7808489441. The pull of the high places simply proved too great. However Coflein has this to say:

'Remains of a stone row situated within open moorland, below Banc Llechwedd-Mawr and above the Afon Hyddgen. The four stones are aligned from north-east to south-west, the row measuring 6.5m in length overall and decreasing in size from the largest on the south-west. The largest stone measures 0.8m in height, 0.6m in length and 0.5m in width. The next stone has fallen, its neighbour measures 0.4m in height and the smallest, that on the north-east, measures 0.1m in height. Source: Cadw scheduling description. F.Foster/RCAHMW 01.12.2005'

I would suggest an approach something like as described in the aforementioned field notes is the best bet, the row lying a little to the approx south-west of the Cerrig Cyfammod Glyndwr. At least according to my map. Happy hunting.
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Gladman... aka Citizen Cairn'd. Yeah, every monument blows me away, but in particular those highland piles of stone with the appropriately monumental views. Visiting them, I think, helps engender a certain 'connection', however intangible, with this land of ours, providing an indispensable reference point for those of us struggling to make sense of this so called 'computer world' Kraftwerk warned us was a'coming in 1981. And hell, it makes me feel good, truly alive... on top of the world in the most literal sense. A perfectly natural 'high'.

Suffice to say, then, that mine is not an exercise in dryly cataloguing sites for the benefit of future generations - as much as I might try I haven't yet been able to embrace altruism to that extent - but rather an attempt to try and reconcile why I am so incredibly moved by these constructions of stone and/or earth representing a time when everything was, by all accounts, literally a matter of life and death. Yeah, just as an empty house appears to retain echoes of past humanity... the raw emotion that apparently sets us apart as a species... so does the stone circle, the chambered cairn, the long barrow and the mountain top funerary cairn. We may be only able to make an (hopefully educated) guess as to what forms the human interaction may have taken - but clearly it mattered. A lot.

I make no special claim for my contributions, particularly since the majority of my earlier images are (variable quality) scans of archive prints.... and my opinions are, well... those of an enthusiastic amateur with a bog-standard 'comprehensive' education. Consequently I'd recommend visitors to TMA refrain from taking my - or anyone else's - word for anything. If you like what you see, why thank you! But please go see for yourself and post what you saw, relate what you think, share what you experienced... that is the greatest compliment you can accord me. Yeah, make up your own mind and do your own thing and help keep the facists, authoritarians and religious freaks from the door. As the great Ian Dury once said, 'Be inspired, be inspiring, be magnificent!' ... and thus the circle turns in on itself to go round again, as upon the great slabs at Bru na Boinne....

However... let's not get carried away. Steady now. In a society where computer generated fantasy is all too prevalent please be aware that reaching some of the more remote upland sites in the British Isles can be potentially dangerous, even life threatening, for the unprepared... or arrogant. Treat the landscape and weather with the respect they deserve (take map, compass, waterproofs etc) and you hopefully won't go far wrong. If in doubt, pop a question in the Forum. That's why Mr Cope puts up the readies to run TMA.... Thank you Julian.

So cheers... to Mr Cope for being his inspirational, confrontational self, showing that field archaeology can be FUN! - hey, who'd have thought it? ...to my sister (Mam Cymru) for using her wondrous female 'macro' vision to help me see the detail throughout an ongoing re-exploration of the South Walian uplands, albeit upon dodgy ankles, knees etc... to my own mam for insisting 'young men should have adventures'.... and my Dad for unwittingly inspiring a profound love of high places. Oh, and to Aubrey Burl for those pioneering guides BC.... 'Before Cope'.

For what it's worth some of my other inspirational people are:

Charles Darwin (for his peerless humanity... amongst, er, 'other things'... although let's not forget Wallace for forcing the great man's hand with his own magnificent contributions);

And then, in no particular order:

George Orwell (peerless essayist with the ability to change his mind); Michael Collins (things are not often black and white... there are two sides to every story); Winston Churchill (for obvious reasons... but especially for all his faults); Martin L. Gore (my favourite songwriter...from just up the road!); Richard Dawkins (much maligned, yet helping to carry the torch of reason during an age of religious resurgence); Shane MacGowan (for making Christmas that little bit more tolerable); Sophie Scholl (words fail me); W A Mozart; Manic Street Preachers (the true spirit of South Wales, not the bleedin' Treorchy Male Voice); Pat Jennings; Stuart Adamson; Will Shakespeare; Harry Hill (there's only one way to find out!); Claudia Brucken (proving Germans do have passion); the (Allied) generation of WW2 for making all this possible; Mr Beethoven; Marc Almond; Stan Laurel and Oliver Hardy; Christopher Hitchens; Mulder and Scully; John Le Mesurier (do you think that's wise, sir?); Ralf Hutter and Florian Schneider.... not to mention anyone who has ever asked 'Why?' - the true legacy of punk. Last but not least, Gaelic beauty Karen Matheson... 'the call is unspoken, never unheard'.

George Orwell - '...during times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act'....

Norman MacCaig - 'I took my mind a walk. Or my mind took me a walk — Whichever was the truth of it'.

Alan Bennett - 'Life is rather like a tin of sardines, we're all of us looking for the key'.

Martin L. Gore - 'Like a pawn on the eternal board; Who's never quite sure what he's moved toward; I walk blindly on....'

Truman Capote - 'Failure is the condiment that gives success its flavour'.

Winston Churchill - 'KBO'.

My TMA Content: