The Modern Antiquarian. Stone Circles, Ancient Sites, Neolithic Monuments, Ancient Monuments, Prehistoric Sites, Megalithic MysteriesThe Modern Antiquarian

Fieldnotes by Mustard

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The Longstone Cove (Standing Stones)

Access now seems semi "official". A stile has been erected for crossing into the field.

Gunnerkeld (Stone Circle)

Visited this site at the mid-point of an epic drive back from the Isle of Lewis to Somerset. I'd been in two minds about stopping, but when the sun broke through the clouds it seemed like a sign, so off I trundled to take a nosey.

Glad to say, friendly farmer is still in residence. We drove through the gate as their was nowhere obvious to park (I wasn't entirely comfortable approaching so close to the farm in the car, but nothing to be done about it...) As I got out of the car, the farmer was walking over. I asked in a friendly fashion if it was ok to visit his stones please, to which he responded jovially "of course it is!", and pointed us in the right direction, whilst his beautiful collie was molesting us. I have to say, I think it's incredibly tolerant of him considering how intrusive visitors must inevitably be, with the trek to the stones leading right past his front window.

On they way to the stones, we were again molested by animals... this time, young sheep! I've never seen sheep be so friendly. This lot practically mobbed us, running up and nuzzling us with their noses.

The site itself is fantastic. It really shouldn't be, with the M6 running so close, but it certainly has a magical feel to it. I was oddly unperturbed by the passing cars. I guess that there's just something about people in fields that makes drivers want to honk, because I was also beeped by a couple of motorists.

On the way back to the car, I tried to find the farmer to thank him. Sadly, he wasn't to be seen, so I left a bottle of wine on his doorstep as a small token of my appreciation. I strongly suggest other visitors do similar, because this guy really is welcoming above and beyond the call of duty, and his attitude is a breath of fresh air and absolutely made my day.

Chateau Bû (Cairn(s))

Fortunately, some enterprising soul has slighly vandalised the chainlink fence next to the locked gate opposite the chamber entrance. There's now enough room to shove a camera lens through, or for those individuals with slightly less respect for authority, it might be possible to utilise the damaged areas of fence as footholds for climbing over the top. Obviously, I'd never recommend anything so foolhardy, but a little leprachaun told me that it's a very easy climb and well worth the effort.

Stall Moor Stone Circle

I have to agree with the earlier posts - this is a rough walk, and not for the faint hearted. Taking in Stalldown Row, this was a four-hour round trip on a pleasant (if windy) day. The ground is sometimes difficult, there are boggy areas obstructing travel, and the terrain is very exposed. Having said all that, if you're reasonably fit and comfortable with a bit of exertion, this shouldn't pose any challenge. Just exercise some caution where the weather is concerned, because you don't want to get stuck out here in adverse conditions. Watch the forecast and take sensible precautions.

Warnings aside, this is a fantastic site. I'm inclined to agree with Gladman when he says Stall Moor may be more remote than White Moor (which is really saying something). The moors are desolate and beautiful around this site, and I spent the entire afternoon without seeing another living soul.

On the approach, I parked at New Waste (obvious parking spaces just through the first gate), then followed the path to the north. Once through the tree-lined area, I broke out across open country and ascended the hill to the north east. If you head for the top, you can't really miss Stalldown stone row - which is an absolute stunner, and worth a visit in its own right.

I headed north from the end of the row, descending the slope and plotting a course towards the river. The terrain was very awkward underfoot during this section. Eventually, after crossing a gulley and a stream, the ground climbs ahead, and the circle can be found on top of this rise. Just keep the river to your right and keep heading up-hill and keep your eyes peeled.

The return journey was somewhat easier. I headed downhill to the south east, intersecting with the river. I followed along the edge of the river's course until arriving at the weir. The ground was mostly reasonable underfoot, but I did need to navigate around some very boggy patches. After the weir, a solid track leads all the way back (I'd guess maybe two miles) to New Waste.

It's up against some stiff competition, but I'd say that this was my favourite Dartmoor walk to date. The views are magnificent, and there's a wonderful mix of scenery along the course of the journey. Bleak moors, rolling hills and valleys, streams, a river, woods... this walk has it all. I can't wait to get back in the summer.

Devil's Quoits (Circle henge)

What a spectacular site. What struck me the most is how quickly you forget that this is a reconstruction. It really doesn't seem to matter. I'd expected the experience to be tempered by the knowledge that the site isn't original or 'genuine', but frankly, it just looks so stunning that all such thoughts are driven from the mind.

I was also surprised at how little the surrounding tip impacts upon the site. And when it does, it almost enriches it in a strange way. The fact that such a unique and stunning location can exist in such against such an incongruous backdrop is somehow rewarding in its own right. Perhaps it helps that the site is reconstructed rather than original, because it feels as though something has been miraculously salvaged where there might otherwise be nothing at all.

When entering the tip, I wasn't at all clear where to park, so I ended up parking in the wrong place (of which more later). Basically, there's a small parking area just to your left as you pass the public recycling area (with a "congregation point" sign, but no parking sign and no sign for the quoits). Once parked, there, there's an obvious public footpath leading to the stones.

The one thing that marred the experience for me was the horrible little jobsworth oink who took an attitude with me for parking in the wrong place. It wasn't clear where to park, there was nobody visible to ask, and my car was tucked well out of the way of passing trucks, but this bloke still had the demeanour of personal affront that only ever seems to grace small-minded little men who've been waiting years to exercise the slight modicum of power that's fallen into their sad little laps. There were threats of locked gates and rude reprimands for missed signposts - where a simple smile and an indication of the correct place to park would have sufficed. It's a shame, because the company that own the site have obviously put a huge amount of effort into supporting the reconstruction, and it would be nice if their staff could show a little more enthusiasm for the project - or at least a little less belligerence.
http://www.isleofalbion.co.uk

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