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Fieldnotes by broch the badger

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Lynchat (Souterrain)

Next to Brochs souterrains are pretty cool (in both meanings of the word) and this one, as Rhiannon suggests is superb. We had been trying to get around to a visit for a couple of years and as the photos suggest we managed to take a peek.
I believe it is possible to walk from Kingussie but we took the lazy option and took the farm track off the A9 and parked at a place suggested by the homemade P for parking sign.
It’s a short walk following the track and across a field to the site. The souterrain is much as described, crescent shaped and quite large. Unfortunately the middle section has collapsed and been robbed away, a shame but this does permit a closer examination of the construction method.
At the time of our visit (November) the backdrop to the site was a snow covered Cairngorm, this site is well worth a look.

Sidhean Mor Dail A' Chaorainn (Enclosure)

Sat at the eastern end of Glen Banchor, one of my favourite places on earth, is the delightfully named Sidhean Mor Dail A’ Chaorainn (The fairy knoll of the glen of the Rowan trees). How could you resist that?

Marked on the OS map as a fort, Canmore has it as a “Palisaded Enclosure”.
The remains of the palisade trenches are faint but visible as lumps ‘n bumps in the heather. The tennis court sized level top is featureless apart from a circular turf enclosure that Canmore ascribes no great age.

The best reason to visit this site is of course the views, which are spectacular in all directions. It’s also relatively easily to reach, just take the Glen road out of Newtonmore, there are a couple of car parks at the top of the glen. Leaving the car park continue along the road till you cross the bridge over the Allt a’ Chaorainn then turn right and follow the burn up to the site visible in front of you.

Knock and Maize (Standing Stone / Menhir)

On our return from a visit to the promontory fort “Kemp’s Wark” a couple of miles up the road, a glance at the OS map indicated a “Standing Stone” this is on the left hand side of the road as you head toward Port Patrick about 300 yards past Knock & Maize farm.

It's a delightful chunk of grey sandstone sitting quietly in the field quite close to and visible from the road, but as with all stones you have to touch!
We parked just up the small side road and climbed over the farm gate for a closer inspection.

“.....Standing stones on the vacant wine-red moor,
Hills of sheep, and the howes of the silent vanished races,
And the winds austere and pure…”

Kemp's Wark (Promontory Fort)

Not knowing whither or not it would be possible to drive down the track to the fort from the road, and be able to park, we left the car on the roadside and elected to go on foot.

As it happened, it would have been possible to park close to the base of the fort. However at the time of our visit (July 2012) some sort of civic construction project was in progress so proceed with caution.

The description of the remains I shall leave to Canmore, save to say I was impressed. For a promontory fort in this part of the country it’s big (real big) with loads of stuff to explore and on a nice sunny day well worth the walk down.

Killantringan Bay (Stone Fort / Dun)

There is a small car park with access to the beach located just short of the Killantringan lighthouse and it is a short walk along the beach (tide permitting) to the Dun.
There isn’t a great deal of the fortification left but a couple of courses of stone on the SE side This is also the easiest way up to the level interior, there may be more masonry visible under the heavy covering of gorse but we didn’t linger to explore more than a few minutes. We had intended to continue up the coast to visit the more substantial “Kemp’s Walk” Promontory Fort. The weather however had other ideas and this was abandoned till another day!

Although not a great site it is well worth the short coastal walk to the Dun particularly along the beach, it is possible to reach the site from above along the escarpment (with care) we returned this way.

Bennen of Garvilland (Hillfort)

This site is reasonably easy to find, follow the minor road from Glenluce toward Three lochs for a couple of miles. Where on your left you will see a sign for the fort at the start of the lane to Garvilland farm. We parked prettily just off the road and walked up through the yard by the side of the farm and out onto the moor, the fort is visible as you go through the gate slightly to your right. The path is actually way marked with posts but these are not easy to see on the way, but quite obvious on the way back!!

Canmore has little to say about the site beyond describing what is visible and what is vague. Yet enough remains for the hill fort fan to explore and enjoy the views.

Dun Grianan (Broch)

Visible from the road close to the car park for the Kilt Rock viewpoint the broch stands on a promontory at the north end of the loch. Now much reduced and largely converted into a sheep fank

Kilvaxter (Souterrain)

Sighted in the field next to the road and its own handy little car park this souterrain is well worth exploring. The site is complete with info boards explaining the souterrain itself, its discovery and excavation also its associated Round House the remains of which are close by. For the adventurous: hard hats and instructions on where to obtain a torch are available.

Trusty's Hill (Hillfort)

I liked Trusty's Hill, unusually for an iron age hill-fort or any hill-fort for that matter it feels cosy. I know that sounds daft, but it does feel cosy. It doesn't take much imagination to see the original occupants of this small fort sitting quite smugly looking out at the surrounding landscape. The fort was excavated in 1960 and this revealed evidence of two periods of activity, the original Iron Age construction and later work dating to the 6th-7th centuries of poorer quality. There is not a lot to see but there are remains of an oval stone built guard hut close to the entrance and the usual ramparts and ditches to examine. As a bonus there is, close to the entrance and the guard hut, some Pictish symbols carved into a rocky outcrop. A double disc and Z rod and a beastie thing that is less distinct these are under the protection of what looks like a tank trap!

Auchindoun (Hillfort)

A bivallate Iron Age hill fort or a least that is what most authorities consider it to be, (there is some discussion as to whether it may be medieval). What is certain, is a 15th century L-plan tower house stuck in the middle of the fort which in my humble opinion doesn't detract too much from the feel of the place, in fact it gives an air of continuity to the site. It is a bit of a lonely spot, and judging by the delight of the local sheep to see visitors, doesn't receive much attention, a shame because it is no great hike from the main road.

Castle Haven (Cliff Fort)

Castle Haven is a D shaped Iron-age Dun more common to the northwest than the southwest of Scotland and is in excellent condition thanks to reconstruction by the landowner in the 1900's, most academics seem to think he made a good job of it too. The Dun is easy to reach from a minor coast road off the B727 but not easy to see, it is only a short walk from the road but the fort is much overgrown and blends perfectly with its landscape. It is not sign posted so you will need a decent map to locate the site. The Dun itself is enclosed by a similar shaped outer defensive wall of uncertain date and is of a unique, for this area, galleried wall construction. The chord of the "D" is built to run along the top of the line of cliff and there is a seaward entrance with steps leading to the beach below.

Barsalloch Point (Cliff Fort)

From Port William head out on the A747 toward Monreith for about a mile or so and Barsalloch point is hard to miss. This is a Historic Scotland site and as such comes complete with small car park, info board and neatly trimmed steps to the fort itself but is well worth inspection if you are in the area. The fort has steep natural defences on the coastal side and two substantial horseshoe shaped ramparts and deep ditch to landward. The fort commands outstanding sea views on a good day and is an excellent spot to sit a while.

Dun-Da-Lamh (Hillfort)

Car parking is available at the Laggan Wolftrax centre. Leaving the car park head toward Laggan Bridge along the main road for a few hundred yards. Just after passing a row of white Forestry Commission cottages on your left you will see a forestry track leading up towards Black Craig follow this as it winds up the hill to the fort (it is signposted). Of the fort itself there is some impressive walling still standing and plenty of stuff for the imagination, although the up-down nature of the inside of the fort is a bit harder to get to grips with. The best bit, as with all hill forts is the view and Dun-Da-Lamh is no exception.

Teroy (Broch)

"Teroy-Almost certainly a Broch" R W Feachem 1963 (Canmore).
Well it sure looks like it might have been a broch, although now much reduced. If you remove the surrounding forestry in the minds eye, Broch or galleried dun, Teroy fort must have been a commanding structure sat on its prominence over-looking the loch. There remains what could be an entrance with a possible intramural guard cell on the ENE side; a ditch of significant depth also protects this area with a steep slope protecting the opposite side. It is a bit tricky finding the place but is possible with a good map and for the broch obsessed, a must.

Doon Castle (Broch)

Follow the farm track from West Ardwell farm, sign-posted Ardwell bay, the track is passable by car (just) and leads to a small car park close to the beach. From here follow the coastal footpath southward around the point, a 5-minute walk, and the broch is un-mistakable and quite dramatic on its promontory. The site is accessible across a built causeway and the remains, although much reduced, are impressive with unusually two openings one to landward and the other to seaward both with checks. There is a mural chamber in the eastern side but we couldn't find any evidence of stairways. Unfortunately we didn't linger due the fact it was raining cats and dogs but this place will stand another visit in better weather as there is much to explore including some outwork.

Stair Haven (Broch)

We gained access by climbing from the shore below, only possible at low tide. The approach via the gully on the northern side is somewhat easier but not as exciting. It is maybe possible to climb down from the cliffs above but we didn't check this out. There is enough remaining of a substantial broch to make the visit worthwhile and is a beautiful place just to sit and consider the original builders (and the in-coming tide). It's not the best work I've seen but pretty neat nonetheless. There are no door checks or guard cells but there is some remaining intra-mural staircase. So it's a broch all right and quite rare for this part of Scotland.

Brown Caterthun (Hillfort)

A fair walk to the place especially if you have just "done" the White Caterthun, but well worth it in my opinion; if only for the view of the flat top of it's sexier White sister. There is a lot more to see in the winter with less heather and of course only the grouse for company.

Sallachy Broch

Easy enough to find with an OS map (Explorer 441). Respect the polite request of the estate and leave your car by the gate. Go through the double deer gate and follow the estate road till you reach a bridge over a burn. The broch is on your right down toward the loch side. There is quite a bit of standing masonry with plenty of broch type stuff to stick your nose into. Be warned bring plenty of DEET if you visit in the small bitey thing season.
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