The Modern Antiquarian. Stone Circles, Ancient Sites, Neolithic Monuments, Ancient Monuments, Prehistoric Sites, Megalithic MysteriesThe Modern Antiquarian

Fieldnotes by Kammer

Latest Posts
Previous 20 | Showing 21-40 of 321 fieldnotes. Most recent first | Next 20

Caisteal Eoghainn A' Chinn Bhig (Crannog)

Visited 9th August 2004: Not such much a visit as a drive-by. Caisteal Eoghainn A' Chinn Bhig is clearly visible from the A849, so I insisted on taking a look from the road.

Despite not getting all that close to the site I was disproportionately excited at seeing my first Crannog. The whole valley has quite an appeal, in a bleak sort of way. In this instance the dire weather seemed a very appropriate backdrop.

Gruline (Standing Stone / Menhir)

Visited 9th August 2004: William and I visited this stone without the others (they opted to stay in the car).

When we visited there was a lot of silage stacked up near the stone tractor in the field and a knackered old tractor (William liked this). The biggest obstacle we faced was mud. The part of the field nearest he gate was awash with it. It took us ages to cover a short distance.

The stone itself is tall and slender, but this I didn't find the site very inspiring. Perhaps I had the wrong head on for it, or perhaps it was the mud, but I didn't feel any great urge to contemplate the place for very long.

Kilninian (Standing Stone / Menhir)

Visited 8th August 2004: Parking is a bit tricky if you're visiting Kilninian, and when we visited the giant bracken was quite an obstacle. The stone itself is beautifully positioned, but possibly easier to appreciate in the winter when the undergrowth has died back.

Dervaig B (Standing Stones)

Visited 8th August 2004: Dervaig B is easier to find and get to than the other two Dervaig rows. As a result it's the most visited of the three. Unsurprisingly, this site isn't wheelchair friendly.

The row is now just inside a forest plantation, with tall pine tress planted on either side of it. Any intervisibility between Dervaig B and it's neighbours (if there ever was any) is now hard to imagine. There's an ambience here though, and the stones are impressively large. Well worth a visit, even for the non-enthusiast.

Dervaig C (Standing Stones)

Visited 8th August 2004: This site is relatively easy to get to, but not by any means wheelchair friendly. It took a couple of passes on the road for me to realise that the cemetery is the landmark we should really have been looking for (much easier to spot than the stones).

Because it's built into a dry stone wall Dervaig C is unlike the other two neighbouring stone rows. It feels a bit tainted, especially with fencing wire still attached to the largest stone. Not exactly brimming with atmosphere.

I can't really complain about our visit though. It was the first day of our week on Mull, and we had brilliant sunshine (unaware that it would be chucking it down in buckets for most of the remainder of the week).

Beddyrafanc (Burial Chamber)

Visited 9th July 2005: This is not an easy site to find. For directions detailing how to get to Bedd yr Afanc, take a look at my map and notes. We were blessed with glorious sunshine. The heat was almost too much really. I had Emily (less than two weeks old) in sling on my front and Lou was supervising the boys. We trudged our way to the site. It felt a bit like a scene out of Beau Geste.

Bedd yr Afanc is a modest site, especially when compared to it's nearest neighbour Pentre Ifan. Having seen photos of the site I knew what to expect, but there's a danger of disappointment if you're expecting something like a Breton gallery grave.

I wondered about for a while trying to figure out where the capstones could have ended up, and found one large stone a few metres away from the tomb. Assuming that this is a capstone, why would anyone come to this place and shift a stone that large only a few metres?

Bedd yr Afanc is definitely worth a visit if you're an enthusiast, but is probably not worth the walk if you only have a casual interest in prehistory. The terrain is relatively level, but by no means wheelchair friendly.

Fang Circle (Stone Circle)

Visited 6th August 2004: We asked at the farm before going to see the stones (presumably this was M'Lellan's croft). The owner was very friendly and didn't seem to mind us taking a look. The route to the stones takes you across a rocky and seaweed strewn beach, so not recommended for anyone with limited mobility.

The site is relatively easy to find, but not quite so easy to interpret. In contrast to the experiences of some others we found Fang Circle to be a pretty inhospitable place, mainly because of the insects. It may have been the time of day that we visited (late afternoon) or the weather that made it bad, but the midges were a nightmare.

Wrynose Pass Stone (Standing Stone / Menhir)

Visited 15th August 2004: I spotted this stone on the way up the Wrynose Pass (I was actually looking for a picnic spot). As it turns out there's space to park just to the west of the stone, so this is where we ate our lunch.

Then I pegged it back to take a closer look at what I'd seen on the way up the hill. It did look like a standing stone of some sort, with possible packing stones exposed on one side. I got severely rained on taking photos and taking a grid reference (NY2830903302), and just assumed that when I got home I'd find some reference to this lump of rock on the Web.

Now having done some research I can find nothing to indicate that a standing stone exists has been identified on this site. I'm 90% sure it is an artificially placed stone though. It seems extremely unlikely to me that a genuine Bronze Age megalith has been overlooked in such an obvious location, so there's got to be a strong likelihood that this stone is not prehistoric.

Pending further evidence I've put the photos here. Please feel free to pass comment (the best place for this is probably the Forum).

Druim Dubh (Stone Circle)

Visited 6th August 2004: This is an easy site to find thanks to the Halfway Garage. My visit was extremely brief because we were pressed for time, but to be honest there isn't a great deal of ambience to be soaked up here.

Stone 10

Visited 6th August 2004: Relatively easy to find if you have the grid reference or some local knowledge, but we had neither. It took a while to track down Creed Lodge, but once we'd found that is was easy. Watch out for the traffic though!

Cnoc Sgeir na h-Uidhe (Standing Stone / Menhir)

Visited 6th August 2005: This site isn't acknowledged by everyone as prehistoric, but having read about it and spoken to Margaret Ponting about it, I was curious. Cnoc Sgeir na h-Uidhe (pronounced kroc skayth na hoo-ya) is on the way to Na Dromannan:
Starting from the A858, park in the lay-by nearest to Cnoc Fillibhear Bheag. Cross the road and follow it, heading away from Calanais, until you are past the cottages on your left (I think you may cross over a cattle grid, but I'm not 100% sure). Here there's a gate taking you into a small paddock on the other of which is another gate. From this point on you're in open countryside.
At this point work your way onto the rocky outcrop behind the cottages, and this is where you'll find Cnoc Sgeir na h-Uidhe. Don't expect to find it easily!

Na Dromannan (Stone Circle)

Visited 3rd and 6th August 2004: Lou and I visited Na Dromannan on two occasions, partly because I left the camera in the car on the first visit, but also because we were bowled over by the stones and their location.

It's such a peaceful spot up on the hill overlooking the other big Callanish sites (most clearly Calanais itself). We took the opportunity to sit in quiet contemplation (in a Swarth Fell stylee). You've got to make this little pilgrimage if you're able!



This route is not very exact, so use it as an aide rather than relying on it. I've based it on memory and some photos that I took. I wouldn't recommend the walk for anyone with limited mobility. Pushchairs or wheelchairs are out of the question because of the frequently changing levels of peat. Good footwear with ankle support is advisable, and if it's been raining be ready to get wet feet.

Starting from the A858, park in the lay-by nearest to Cnoc Fillibhear Bheag. Cross the road and follow it, heading away from Calanais, until you are past the cottages on your left (I think you may cross over a cattle grid, but I'm not 100% sure). Here there's a gate taking you into a small paddock on the other of which is another gate. From this point on you're in open countryside.

Keeping to the east of the little hill behind the cottages you should find a peat cutters track. This track starts off being well defined, but very uneven, leading off to the north-east. You can follow the path for about half a mile before it becomes almost impossible to distinguish from the heather and peat. At this point you should change course and head north towards high ground. You should have the lake off to your right at the point when you change course.

This is where the going get tougher. You'll find yourself going from one heather covered island of peat to another. The 'valleys' between each island can get very wet very quickly if it rains. Wherever possible keep on the high ground. The first 'bump' to aim for has a couple of distinctive boulders on the summit which make it quite distinctive. Once you're on the top of that you can potentially see the bump that Na Dromannan sits on. We were lucky because the spoil heaps from the archaeological dig made for an excellent target, but once they're gone it could be tricky finding the site without a GPS or some top notch map reading.

Iarsiadar Standing Stone (Standing Stone / Menhir)

Visited 2nd August 2004: We parked by the Bernera Bridge information board and walked back across the bridge to Iarsiadar. There's a gate by the road giving access into the field where the stone now stands. The climb up to the stone isn't too steep, but there's no path as such.

When you're up by the stone you just have to imagine that you're a few metres further west than you actually are.

Bernera Bridge Circle (Stone Circle)

Visited 2nd August 2004: Just as enigmatic as I'd anticipated, Bernera Bridge is a weird old thing. It's situation above the channel of Sruth Iarsiadar is a great sensory bonus. The reflection of light (even on a dull day), the sound of the sea, the distant views, and even the modern bridge make it a great spot.

Long before the bridge this was a crossing point to Bernera, but what would it have looked like during the Neolithic? The sea levels were lower, so what did this spot represent to the people who put up the stones?

The Bernera Bridge 'circle' could be a lot more accessible than it is, given how close it is to the road. A steep gravel slope leads up to the site, so not ideal for anyone who's got limited mobility.

Ceann Hulavig (Stone Circle)

Visited 2nd August 2004: The first site of the day, it was good to meet Ceann Hulavig in the flesh. Shame that the weather wasn't great, but you can't have everything. We were pressed for time (not recommended) and so any scope for chilling out and enjoying the place was rather limited. Would have liked to have made a second visit in the sunshine.

Clach Stei Lin (Stone Circle)

Visited 4th August 2004: We started off trying to get a view of Clach Stei Lin from the village of Siadar Uarach. You can see it from the end of the cul-de-sac that lies to the north west of the stone, but it's not a great view.

In the end I approached on foot from the track to the south west of the stone, leaving Louise in the car. At the site there are two obvious stones, one standing (which we'd seen from the village) and the other, much smaller, lieing prone just to the north.

This is one of those places where you know very few people visit, despite being relatively close to the road. If these stones were in souther England they'd be litterred with rubbish and graffiti, but here on Lewis they represent a relatively minor site.

Vive l'indifférence!

Coire na Feinne (Chambered Cairn)

Visited 5th August 2004: This is an interestingly placed site. It's effectively become a garden feature, but it's a well kept garden, and when we visited the owner was very friendly. She was happy for us to take a look at the stones from the garden side of the boundary.

If you visit, please ask before entering the garden area or taking photos from inside the garden. It would be a shame to upset the people who look after this site, especially as they are so congenial.

Coir Fhinn may not be everyone's cup of tea, but I rather liked it. Well worth taking a look at if you're in the area visiting other sites.

The Macleod Stone (Standing Stone / Menhir)

Visited 5th August 2004: We approached this one all wrong. It was entirely my fault as well. We parked on the wrong side of the stream near the picnic area, and had to paddle across where the water was shallow. Then we worked our way up the headland, past some serious sand extraction quarries, up to the top then down towards Clach Mhic Leòid. It was an interesting route, but not ideal for the kids. There was a fence to get over before we got to the stone, and at this point I realised we should have done it all differently (presumably parking near the cattle grid).

The stone is big and macho. The views are splendid, but we weren't blessed with sunshine. There's a weird sort of notch in the top of the stone (like an inverted arrow), and I couldn't help but wonder whether it's an original feature. It could equally be the result of a lightning strike. A 'must see' if you're on Harris, but not as charming as Sgarasta.

Sgarasta (Standing Stone / Menhir)

Visited 5th August 2004: On the Ordnance Survey map Sgarasta looks pretty accessible, sitting as it does just off the A859. I hadn't anticipated the cows though. The farmer had kindly placed a 'Beware Highland Cattle' sign on the gate as a warning, but the presence of the cows on the other side of the wall rendered it unnecessary.

In the sunshine the stone and the views looked gorgeous, and I wasn't about to back down. The cows watched me intently as I climbed over the gate and after a moment of hesitation I decided not to run for the stone. I casually strolled in a respectful arc around the cattle and kept up the same sort of pace until I got to the stone (it unnerved me having my back to them).

What a great stone! What a great view. The mountains and the sand make for a staggering back-drop. I nearly forgot about my bovine audience. Despite the road, this place has a real feeling of solitude. Not much time to enjoy the ambience though because everyone else was waiting in the car. We spent the afternoon on the beach (Bàgh Steingidh) within site of the stone. Highly recommended!

Cliacabhaigh (Standing Stone / Menhir)

Visited 2nd August 2004: Cliacabhaigh is on the grass verge to the east of the lane, usually obscured by farm machinery. I understand that this is not private land, but the local crofter is not at all keen on visitors.

When I visited I found the stone had been vandalised with yellow paint. Hand prints on the south size indicated that children had been involved. Unfortunately the farm machinery that has accumulated around the stone means that it would be easy to paint the stone without being seen from the lane. Having said that, the nearest croft is relatively nearby, and overlooks the stone.

Lining up the stone with the main Calanais site is interesting. There is certainly a relatively straight route between the two, marked by the modern lane. The only advantage of the yellow paint is that you can now just about make out Cliacabhaigh from the main site.
Previous 20 | Showing 21-40 of 321 fieldnotes. Most recent first | Next 20
I live in a small Welsh seaside town on the west coast. As well as being well placed for visiting the local sites, it's relatively easy to get to sites in south Wales, north Wales and the borders.

If you'd like to use one of the photos I've posted on this site please contact the TMA Eds who'll pass the message on ([email protected]).

Some of my favourite prehistoric sites:
Avebury (England)
Calanais (Scotland)
Castlerigg (England)
Dolgamfa (Wales)
Gavrinis (France)
Kernic (France)
Pentre Ifan (Wales)
La Roche-aux-Fées (France)
Stones of Stennes (Scotland)
Wayland's Smithy (England)

Kammer x

My TMA Content: