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Su Monte 'e s'ApeTomba di Giganti
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Despite having both Julian's and Sals' instructions on how to find it, we drove round in circles for some time, unable to find the right road, but knowing we were close. I was on the point of giving up but Moth wanted one final push trying to find it from Loiri. Eventually, we did find the lane signposted by a hilltop castle. It's almost the most remarkable monument on the island but lacks its stele which was stolen in the early 20th century for a garden ornament and is now lost. With a 28' chamber and hugely wide forecourt lined with an original low seating area directly in front of the forecourt stones it feels very theatrical – like a stage- and hints at the way people might have used the space. Perhaps participants in the forecourt ceremonies sat around within the space rather than watching from the outside. I liked the way the airport was so close – you know, ancient and modern… I liked seeing the planes landing and taking off through the space between the stones where the enormous stele should be. And there's no doubt that the stele would have been enormous, my guess is at least 12' tall if it was in proportion with the rest of the site. This post appears as part of the weblog entry Love's labours lost and found
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Posted by Jane1st June 2008ce |
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From Olbia airport, head west and watch out for the sign to Loiri - even though you want to go south and logic says that's left, it's a right turn. Second time lucky, we got on the right road - the SP24 - and turned off at the sports pitch mentioned in TME - the tomba is signposted from here. We parked in the area probably designed for those visiting Pedres castle, on the hill overlooking the site, having seen the state of the bumpy, sandy track, and walked the last 200 metres. There was a red Renault parked just by the gate in the low wall, and it turned out that it belonged to the site guardian - a lovely man! You can buy a ticket for 5 sites round Olbia for 7,50 - the others being: Pozzo Sacro "Sa Testa" Acquedotto e Cisterna "Sa Rughittola" Nuraghe "Riu Mulimu" Fattoria Romana di "S'imbalconadu" but we only had time for this one, so paid 2,50 euros each. They may not get many visitors - the tickets had their prices overstickered for last year, if not the year before's charges. This is one of the largest tombas in Sardinia, 28 metres long. As at Li Lolghi and Coddu Vecchiu, it's thought to be a reworking of an allée couverte. The esedra is huge; the stele has been broken off and removed, leaving a stump of stone with a ridge down it on the left of the entrance, giving a good view down the funeral corridor. This post appears as part of the weblog entry Sardinia - Sassari circuit plus (it's the final part!)
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Posted by sals14th October 2007ce Edited 14th October 2007ce |
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