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Portal Tomb
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West of Killybegs - apparently Ireland's 'premier fishing port', no less - lies a wild, sparsely populated area known as the Slieve League Peninsular... named after a mountain range possessing (arguably) the highest sea cliffs in all Europe. Although there are few settlements of any size to visit today, the proliferation of megalithic tombs to be found in the locality would strongly suggest that, relatively speaking, this was certainly no prehistoric 'backwater'. Oh no.
Like a child before the sweetie counter, palms sweating through tightly grasped coins, it's difficult to know where to start. The fantastic 'two for the price of one' tombs of Croaghbeg and Shalwy get the initial verdict on a split points decision. A difficult act to follow, it has to be said. Nevertheless we continue along the R263 towards the road's near terminus at Malin More, a small cluster of houses set below the western extremity of the aforementioned Slieve League. Although the coastal scenery is exquisite, Malin More is unpretentious almost to the point of submission. No doubt the inhabitants have no wish to engender the wrath of the winter storms through ostentatious display? So it come as a major surprise to find that this little settlement could well be the case study to prove the maxim 'appearances can be deceptive'. Aye, 'tis true.... standing in an east-west alignment beside a minor farm road stand (at least) six - count 'em - portal tombs!
Granted, none of the half dozen monuments is a classic specimen of the type in itself, each sadly having suffered structurally - to a greater or lesser extent - across the millenia. But there are SIX of them! Something I've never encountered before.... and probably will never again. Are there any other comparable groups? Dunno. The best preserved - and thus showpiece - tomb of Malin More's collection is a gigantic edifice of the 'two-tiered, double capstone' type, a design perhaps best exemplified at Knockeen, Co. Waterford. Although the main chamber's massive capstone now rests upon the turf - having slipped from its supporting orthostats some time in antiquity - the secondary example remains in situ, a beautiful slab of shining quartzite. Nice. A little Irish frog, clearly with no qualms concerning the tombs current stability, nevertheless makes a leap for freedom as we enter. Wisely, I think. You know what these clumsy English tourists are like?
So what of the other portal tombs, then? Well, that nearest the farm house is also in pretty good nick... although taking a full on picture of someone's home didn't seem right... at the time. Wish I had now, but there you are. The others have fared less well, but can nonetheless still be traced and appreciated within the farmer's fields. And... well, two out of six 'aint bad... to paraphrase Mr Meat Loaf himself. Can't argue with that as we prepare to leave Malin More to revel once again in its obscurity. Especially since the fine court tomb of Cloghanmore lies close at hand....
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Posted by GLADMAN
26th January 2011ce
Edited 27th January 2011ce
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