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Fieldnotes by tjj

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The Horestone (Rodborough) (Standing Stone / Menhir)

Visited 27/10/2011:
To be completely honest, I first read about this stone on the Megalithic Portal website about two weeks ago. It fired up my imagination as I had been on Minchinhampton Common very recently. Minchinhampton Common and Rodborough Common meet at around the point where this stone is located. Having said that, however, it is one of the most obscure stones I've ever managed to locate.
I could not have found it without the assistance of my good friend M who provided the transport, OS map and large brolly - as it was persistently raining.

We left my friend's car by the Bear Inn which is just where the road crosses from Minchinhampton Common into Rodborough Common - free range cattle wandering across the roads.

Bownham Park residential estate in just across the road from the Bear Inn walking slightly uphill. There are two entrances into the estate both say 'private road'. If you enter (you can drive in) by the main entrance (look for ornamental white chains and posts) straight ahead about 50 metres in you will see the wrought iron gates of Bownham House - turn left here and follow the road downhill for about 150 metres. Look for a turning on your right near to the bottom of the hill which has a sign saying "Nos 18, 20, 22 only". Go to the top of this short uphill road and you will find the stone in the shrubbery under a large tree near the entrance of the very last house.

I would like to say it is in character with the holey oolite stone at Minchinhampton but I'm afraid it is not really, no similar evidence of erosion. I'm not sure what type of stone it is - probably limestone.

It has been set in concrete with a strange step holding it all in place and imagine it stood on this spot long before the modern houses were built, though it is possible that it was moved during the building of the houses - hence the concrete setting.

It would be interesting to here the views of other TMA-ers.

Aldbourne Four Barrows (Barrow Cemetery)

Previous postings on the site by some eminent contributors to TMA, including the late Wysefool, contain lots of information to supplement this brief field note. Seen today by pure chance while walking back to Upper Upham, they suddenly appeared in the landscape - four round barrows with a bowl or disc barrow in the foreground. (One of my walking companions said the foreground barrow was a saucer barrow which had been ploughed out, the landowner who was later required to 'reinstate' it). If anyone knows more about the detail and accuracy of this, I'd love to hear it.

From the by-way leading back up to Upper Upham the view of the barrows against the Wiltshire land-sky-scape is rather wonderful. Unsung I'd say.

The Giant's Grave (Aldbourne) (Round Barrow(s))

Out walking this morning around the Upper Upham area of Wiltshire - a part of Wiltshire I never walked around before. Apart from encountering a 'shooting party' who tried to convince us we were not on a right of way, it was a lovely downland walk with the usual invigorating breeze and cloud driven sky. Walking back up a track to Upper Upham near the end of the walk, Giants Grave long barrow appeared on the right of the path. At first I thought it was a round barrow as marked on OS map as tumulus - it looks too long to be a round barrow though.

Just past this point there appeared a stunning view of the four Albourne barrows on Sugar Hill with a distinct bowl or disc barrow in the foreground.

Membury Camp (Hillfort)

Not much I can add to Chance's excellent fieldnote on this obscure but large hillfort. Visited it today as part of a six mile walk from hamlet of Wittonditch.

The countryside leading up to Membury is very clearly private farmland though there is a Right of Way through it. We walked through some woodland where some forestry work had been taking place and came out into a field containing a small herd of deer, two of which were white - quite rare I believe.

We followed a quiet lane to Membury Farm which, with its gate lodge and rather impressive wrought iron gates, was a bit daunting - glad I wasn't walking alone. However, the Right of Way was clearly marked with signs saying 'stay on the footpath' so we kept going up to the hill fort. The ramparts of the hillfort are completely covered with mature trees (a lot of oaks) on all sides. The middle of the hill fort was a ploughed field with a broad path going through its centre. One of the things I love about walking to hillforts is the views of the surrounding landscape - no views to be had from this hillfort because of the dense trees on the ramparts. The wind did pick up briskly while we stopped for a bit so from the elemental viewpoint it did feel like a hillfort.

The pond, encircled by oaks, mentioned by Chance on the north side of the enclosure seemed completely dried out.

Danebury (Hillfort)

This hill fort has been on my list to visit for some time. Today I received the opportunity via a friend who wanted to make an autumnal visit to the New Forest - Danebury was on the way.

Surprisingly easy to find as well sign-posted from Andover - we left the car in the first parking area at the bottom of the hill, although there was another one further up the hill next to a small discreet roundhouse-style toilet building (with information boards).

Its a relatively gentle walk up to the hill fort where there is yet another information board explaining that the eastern entrance once had a timber gate which had been destroyed and rebuilt several times. Originally the fort had two entrances but the west gate was filled in and only the east gate used.

It appears to be a trivallate fort, at least in parts; 2500 years old and occupied for 500 years until the Romans arrived. Excavations by Professor Barry Cunliffe of Oxford between 1969-1988 found evidence of 73 roundhouses and 500 rectangular buildings - roundhouses for the people and the rectangular store houses and pits probably for grain.
180,000 pieces of pottery and 240,000 bits of animal bone and stone objects such as querns and bone implements for weaving were found. There are still dips in the ground where grain stores used to be and a high spot in the centre which is thought to have been a focal point for religious gatherings and important meetings.

Its a massive and impressive hill fort, the lower ramparts now quite densely wooded in places with beech and yew trees. The paths have had sand gravel, rather than chalk laid down, which slightly detracts from the ambience, as do the wooden steps up one of the higher ramparts. Both these measures protect the hill fort from erosion so no complaints from me.

The wild flowers which appear to grow in profusion have gone with the onset of autumn; a 'must go back in the summer' sort of place with panoramic views over Hampshire and towards Wiltshire.

Cold Slad On Crickley Hill (Causewayed Enclosure)

A beautiful, warm Autumn day, my first visit to Crickley Hill Country Park. The site of the neolithic settlement, hillfort and later roundhouses is impressive.
The following information was taken from a 'time-line' information board:

Archaeological investigation suggest the hill was intermittently inhabited for about 4000 years between 3500BC and 500AD. The soil on the hill is shallow but has never been ploughed so many of man's past activities are recorded in not only the bedrock but also the subsoil. Excavations over the years have produced hundreds of thousands of finds, pieces of bone, fragments of pottery, daub from the walls of buildings, metal work, glass, charcoal, and various stones, many of which are foreign to the site.

A wonderfully evocative site with the later roundhouses marked out by circular 'post' marks. Spectacular views towards Cheltenham and Gloucester - the Malvern Hills just visible through the afternoon haze.

Crippets Long Barrow

The last day of September and it feels like a summer's day. My first ever visit to Crickley Hill hillfort with its amazing views towards the towns of Gloucester and Cheltenham. A long barrow spotted on the OS map took us up into and through a beech wood on Crickley Hill. It took a while to find this barrow as it is screened from view by a line of trees. Coming upon it through the beech trees, it seemed instantly familiar and I recalled the splendid 'long shadows' photographs posted here on TMA by people like the Sweetcheat and Gladman.

The gate to the field with the barrow was padlocked today so we carefully climbed over a wire fence to take a closer look. A lovely barrow in profile; closer up, however, the centre of the barrow is sunken indicating that is has been excavated and the chamber stones possibly removed.

Rempstone Stone Circle

Today's visit to this truly hidden (partial) stone circle was a complete surprise. A friend had asked me along on day trip to the Dorset coast via Corfe Castle then along to Studland for a walk to 'Old Harry'. How could I refuse? While plotting the route to Studland my friend had noticed a stone circle marked on the OS map about 2/3 miles from Corfe Castle on the road to Studland, so we thought we'd have a go at finding it - as a bonus to all the other delights of the trip.

After initially missing the pull-in we turned round, stopping at a small parking area opposite Rempstone Hall; a gate into a wood and a bridlepath sign pointing to Nine Barrow Down is what to look out for. Going through the gate we turned right into a small wood which was a mixture of deciduous trees and plantation pines. The pine needles under our feet made our footfall silent - all rather lovely.

The stone circle was hard to find - we passed one solitary dark red sandstone before we eventually found what is really the remains of a stone circle, now just a semi-circle. Approximately eight stones plus the solitary stone as you enter the wood; the circle stones were covered in moss and being dark reddish brown in colour were well camouflaged amid the pine trees.

Later in the day, we went into the Heritage Centre in Swanage where I learnt that the Rempstone Stone Circle had been erected in the Bronze Age 4,000 years ago by the Beaker people and built with Studland sandstone.

Barbury Castle (Hillfort)

Wild, windy weather today, the tail-end of an Atlantic hurricane. I just wanted to be somewhere high and open - so Barbury Castle it was. I've been here many times before but today, after an exhilerating walk into the wind along the ramparts, for the first time I headed up along the Ridgeway towards Hackpen Hill. Made it to a large clump of trees before turning back towards Barbury; seeing Barbury from the Ridgeway gave it a whole new perspective. From that view point it is clear that Barbury is a promontary hillfort as it sits on the end of a hill ridge with the land dropping gradually away towards the plain below.

The information board on the Ridgeway side of Barbury tells us that the area is rich in burial mounds, among which an ancient disc barrow is the most important. Dated 1700BC it is thought to be the burial site of an aristocratic woman.

The information board goes on to say that during the laying of a trench by Esso, the skeleton of an elderly woman dated at around 300AD was found deep in the chalk bed. Probably a member of the local Romano British community who farmed the area. (The workers who found the remains originally called them ERIC 'Early remains in chalk' but later changed this to Erica).

The Ridgeway (Ancient Trackway)

Yesterday I walked the section of the Ridgeway between Hackpen Hill and Avebury (to the Polisher stone). Overcast and very windy, it felt very autumnal; was wonderful to be up there overlooking the Wiltshire downs. The hedgerows were laden with berries of many varieties which reinforced the autumnal feel.

Last time I was up here was in the winter and the surrounding fields were covered in mist so I missed the intriguing large sarsen stone that stands alone in the middle of a field to your left, walking towards Avebury. Not possible to get closer without climbing wire fencing so just had to look from a distance.

Was concerned to see part of the track heavily rutted and, coming back, three vechicles passed - one was towing some sort of people carrier that had people in it (they didn't look like farm workers).

Love this ancient trackway so much; it is always different according to the time of year and weather conditions - and always an intense experience.

The Toots (Long Barrow)

I came across this long barrow today more by accident than design. Was in the Stroud/Selsley area to look at Pre-Raphaelite stained glass, approaching the village of Selsley from across the Common. What a lovely place - open unfenced common land (how rare is that) with wonderful views over the Stroud Valley. The first day of September and the sun was shining.

The long barrow had a couple of families picnicing on it today, flying kites and running around. I pushed any proprietorial thoughts away and refrained from taking all but just one photograph. As with most of the Gloucestershire long barrows there are stunning views to be had; in this case across the valley, towards the river Severn. The Severn could be clearly seen today along with the hills beyond (just a little haze). The 55 metre long barrow dips in the middle as so many of them do as a result of past excavations. Today I left it to the children playing on its slopes but will go back another time to take a closer look.

Giant's Grave (Martinsell) (Ancient Village / Settlement / Misc. Earthwork)

Monday, 11th July 2011

Set off to 'test' another nine mile walk for the North Wessex Downs AONB forthcoming series of Heritage Walks. Started from Pewsey Wharf along the Kennet & Avon Canal to pick up the White Horse Trail at Pains Bridge up to Giant's Grave Settlement.

It was a hot, humid day, I had been troubled for the past week or so by horse-fly bites. This occasion was no exception which, along with the heat, made walking uphill uncomfortable. Fortunately by the time Giant's Grave was reached a slight breeze had sprung up.

Fabulous views over the Vale of Pewsey in one direction and the ridge of hills towards Knap Hill (Oare and Huish Hills) in the other. The nine mile walk towards Gopher Wood along the White Horse Trail (Tan Hill Way) was abandoned for a cooler day ... so it was back down hill and a walk into the village of Oare in such of refreshment.

Note: Oare and Pewsey are accessible by bus from Swindon, Marlborough and Salisbury via the Wilts & Dorset X5
http://www.wdbus.co.uk/site/uploads/publications/157.pdf

18/7/11
Another, this time successful, attempt at the nine mile walk mentioned above. Undistracted today by heat and insect bites I was able to take a better look at the rampart known as Giant's Grave. Approached along the fence-line at the top to Martinsell Hill (the Pewsey side) it was clearer today to see it as a defensive bank and ditch, broken by the a fence driven through it. Later viewed from Tan Hill Way - a different perspective, the shape of a hill fort became clearly visible.

Petersfield Heath (Barrow Cemetery)

Due to one of life's quirky little detours I found myself in Petersfield today visiting family of a friend. A lovely afternoon so we walked around Petersfield Heath which, is spite of having a prosperous market town right next to it, still feels like a heath. Surprisingly there are several round barrows dotted about, some hidden among the trees. Not much to add to Jimit's fieldnote except to say that the person showing us the barrows also told us that they were aligned to the midwinter sunset between the gap in the two westerly hills which can be seen from the nearby lake (formerly marshland). One of these, Butser Hill, being the highest hill in South Downs. It would be difficult to test this theory now as there the area is quite wooded - a treat though to have a little bit of prehistory come my way without any real effort on my behalf.

Bincknoll Castle (Hillfort)

My first visit to Bincknoll Castle - today as the culmination of a nine mile walk taken from a leaflet poduced by North West Downs AONB. The second half of the walk was from Clyffe Pypard to Broadtown, along to the lesser known Broad Town White Horse then following the bottom of an escarpment to the track leading up to Bincknoll Castle. Once up there, the distant sprawl of Swindon and constant flow of the M4 motorway became hidden behind trees, before me lay the Marlborough Downs and Ridgeway.

Note:
Apparently the Normans adapted the Bincknoll hillfort as a motte and bailey castle but all trace of this has disappeared.

Winterbourne Bassett (Stone Circle)

Today I caught the 49 bus out towards Avebury, disembarking at the village of Broad Hinton; the objective being to 'test' walk one of the new 'bus walks' compiled by North Wessex Down AONB.

The first part of the walk took me onto the old trackway of Vize Lane, apparently an ancient trading route which once connected settlements now known as Wroughton and Devizes. The track comes out by the Winterbourne Bassett stone circle at Lambourne Ground and effectively forms a cross-roads; the large sarsen overlooking this junction becoming visible as I walked towards the crossroads. It struck me that on the other occasions I've visited this site I've always been in a car - walking towards it along Vize Lane gave it a different perspective. I found myself thinking that instead of being an outlier to the almost buried stone circle, the large sarsen might in fact be an prehistoric Mark Stone - as talked about by Alfred Watkins in The Old Straight Track.

Edit: Local antiquarian friend has kindly sent me this message:
The Winterbourne Bassett Stone was erected in memory of Rev W.F. Harrison who fell from his horse and died here in 1857.

Castle Crag, Borrowdale (Hillfort)

Visited Sunday 22nd May 2011
Very interesting to read the field notes by The Eternal and Gladman on this one as I had no idea it came into the category of hillfort. We walked up to the top of Castle Crag on a damp morning, the first day of a week's walking holiday in the Lake District. A lovely and relatively easy walk from where we were staying in the village of Grange; after a night of heavy rain the woodland streams tumbled downhill over their stoney beds into the river Derwent.
We saw no one until we started to ascend the hill, then dozens of people (and their dog) appeared making their way downhill from the summit - our first hint that the more popular footpaths in the Lake District can become quite busy, especially at weekends. Marvellous views towards Skiddaw on one side and over the Borrowdale valley on the other.
The top of the hill is a narrow track up through what looks like a slate mound - I didn't do this bit as was still finding my feet and to me it looked slippery. My holiday companion went enthusiastically to the top and reported jagged slate rocks sticking up in castellations.
Later in the week I climbed the very little mountain of Cat Bells, also walked up Great End Crag at the Great Gable side of Seathwaite Fell (2000ft) so Castle Crag was a great way to start.

Mayburgh Henge

Visited on 24th May 2011 on the way back from Long Meg and Her Daughters.

Information board says that this huge henge has a circumference of 150 metres and was built from 5 million cobblestones brought from the nearby River Eamont many of which have now been removed for building materials. It varies in height from 4 metres to 7 metres and has no internal or external ditch. There were 4 large stones at its centre though only one remains. There were also 4 stones standing at a single 7 metre entrance to the east - these too are gone.

The nearby King Arthur's Round Table can be clearly seen from Mayburgh Henge.

Sunkenkirk (Stone Circle)

Visited 26th May 2011.
We headed towards Broughton in Furness then took the A595 towards the village of Hallthwaites taking turn-off for Broadgate, as far as Crag Hall farm. Here the track turned into a bridle way so we obtained permission to park car on a grass verge near the farm.

The stone circle is about a mile up the track towards Thwaites Fell - seemed longer as uphill and on this particular day a cold wind swept across fells making it feel more like March than late May. The stone circle is truly remote - it sits at the bottom of Swinside Fell with views towards Dunnerdale Fells in the distance to the east and Duddon estuary to the south.

There is a four stone 'entrance' into the circle which seems to be aligned to the eastern skyline (I wondered whether this was a solstice alignment). As observed by other TMA-ers, Swinside bears some similarities to Castlerigg though not as dramatic. It is probably the loneliest stone circle I have visited - we met no one at all along the way, just free range cattle and the odd curlew.

Note taken from David Watson's "A Guide to Stone Circles of the Lake District"
There are 55 stones with 32 still standing. Originally there would have been about 60 stones. The stones are made of local metamorphic slate. Circle is about 28 metres in diameter. Tallest stone is about 2.3 metres

Long Meg & Her Daughters (Stone Circle)

Tuesday 24th June 2011 - we drive over to Penrith temporarily leaving the Lakes and mountains behind. There is a Radio4 programme on the car radio about Bob Dylan who is 70 today so it is to the strains of "Like a Rolling Stone" we set off from the village of Little Salkend in the Eden Valley to visit Long Meg & Her Daughters. The Pennines are to our right as we walk up the track, it's a gusty cloud-skudding day, my companion identifies the sound of a curlew.

Much has been written about Log Meg and the stone circle known has Her Daughters - its diameter is between 100 and 93 metres putting it amongst the biggest stone circles in Britain. Long Meg is an irregular four sided pillar of local red sandstone whilst the circle stones are the granite rock rhyolite. Long Meg is 3.6 metres high and is partially covered in silver crystalisations and lichen. Famously it has three examples of rock art on one side of its surfaces - a cup and ring with gutter, a spiral, and some incomplete concentric circles.

After spending some time walking around the circle and looking at Long Meg from various angles, we make our way through a couple of fields to Little Meg - a very small granite stone circle in a nearby field. Then on to the small red sandstone church of St Michael's and All Angels, Addington which oddly stands away from any sizeable village inside a walled churchyard. A hefty shower blew across so we took shelter inside the church for a bit - I found the following passage in a booklet about the church (author not stated, though revised in 2010).

"Standing on the route towards the Tyne Gap, Long Meg is one of the eight circle henges along the 350 miles between Fife and Wiltshire which share similar characteristics. Each has a large open ring within a smallish henge and each is on a trackway of Neolithic occupation.
Some 200 Neolithic people are thought to have occupied the areas immediately around the Lake district mountains. Long Meg herself stands in the right place to relate to a midwinter sunset but only if seen from the middle of the ring with a flattened arc, making its centre difficult to determine. Yet such was the skill of the ring builders that Long Meg is aligned so that the winter sun would have set exactly over it. For this to happen its top would have to rise clear of the skyline, hence Long Meg's height".

I had lost my heart to Castlerigg a few days earlier so Long Meg & Her Daughters in the pastural Eden Valley didn't make the impact I had expected - its odd how some stone circles immediately touch something within whilst others leave you pondering and puzzled.
(Photos to follow when I return home at the weekend).

Castlerigg (Stone Circle)

Staying for week at the small village of Grange in the Borrowdale valley near Keswick. When a friend asked me several months ago to share a walking holiday in Lake District I jumped at the chance - unbelieveably I had not visited before. At last I would be able to visit Castlerigg, named by so many as their favourite stone circle.

As we approached Keswick on Saturday, the rain as forecast, had started - I spotted the sign for Castlerigg so we did a detour to make it the first the thing to be seen. I was childishly excited as I ran into the circle in the rain - with just sheep for company and surrounding hills shrouded in low cloud it, seemed a remote isolated place.

It rained all Saturday night and yesterday morning it eased a little so we walked to the top of Castle Crag, a nearby hill. By the afternoon the rain had stopped to be replaced with cloudy, sunny intervals ... so we headed back to Castlerigg to see it in different weather. Not wanting to do a long walk in case the weather changed again, my friend parked on the A591 (the road out of Keswick) and we walked from 'High Nest' through the meadows to Castlerigg. I became acutely aware of the surrounding fells as cloud shadows and sunlight played on their steep slopes. It was Sunday afternoon, the sun had come out after heavy rain so needless to say there were quite a few people wandering around the circle - which made no difference at all to the impact my second visit had on me. This beautiful stone circle with its small cove of inner stones - surrounding on all sides by the high Cumbrian hills blew me away. I live near Avebury, have been to Brodgar and Boscawen-un, both of which affected me deeply. Castlerigg is up there with them. It is set on a plateau above Keswick in an amphitheatre of hills including Skiddaw, Blencathra (Saddleback) and Lonsdale Fell; in some ways seems to mirror them. I stood for a long while at the far side of the field watching the shadows race across the fells all around the stone circle.

Right now, I'm typing this in the attic room which is also my bedroom in the riverside cottage where we are staying (curses, there is a computer and wifi link there too). The rain is falling in white sheets and the River Derwent has swollen to scarey proportions. The drama is spectacular ... no doubt we will venture out soon - perhaps go down to Grasmere as walking is out of the question until the rain subsides. Up here in the Lakes - almost unspeakably beautiful to this particular southerner - once again Nature rules and puts everything in perspective.

Over and out ... photos to follow when I return home.
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Passionate about:
Nature; stone circles and all ancient sites that involve walking through unspoilt countryside/being near the sea; islands around the the British Isles, especially those with ancient monuments.

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