The Modern Antiquarian. Stone Circles, Ancient Sites, Neolithic Monuments, Ancient Monuments, Prehistoric Sites, Megalithic MysteriesThe Modern Antiquarian

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An Afternoon visit near Porlock


I will be tidying some of these old write ups of mine up, and editing into better linked and flowing entries. Just give me time! Tim.

The Whit Stones
Date Visited Wednesday 3rd May 2000

These two sizeable stones, likely barrow remnants, situated a couple miles west of Porlock, and several miles east of Lynton, are easily accessible.

Heading west from Porlock (the hill coming out of Porlock is VERY steep and not for the faint hearted!), keep an eye out for a fork in the A39. When you see the fork, keep going along the A39; to the right there are two car parks; take the second car park, as this puts you within one minute walk of the stones. If your companions are not interested in stones, the car park gives great views down to Porlock Bay.

Immediately opposite the car park entrance is a path. Take this path, and you will soon see the stones. When I visited, the stones were surrounded by vibrant, trumpeting daffodills, breaking the beauty / monotony of the heather. Both stones are at an angle, leaning east. The northernmost stone is 4 feet tall, the southernmost about 5' 9" tall, and both with the typical adornments for stones: lichen and bird poo!

Porlock Allotment Stone Circle and Stone Row
SS848447
Date Visited Wednesday 3rd May 2000

Not far at all from the Whit Stones is the Porlock Allotment Circle and Row. If visiting from the Whit Stones, turn left out of the car park, then turning right off the A39 fairly soon, heading southbound towards Exford. Before long, you will see a small bridge in a dip ahead of you, and to your right, a sheepfold. The stone circle is just before the sheepfold.

We parked just after the bridge, on the left hand side as there was room, but be aware of some ditches nearby. I first looked for the stone row, which should point SE, across the road from the circle, but after 20 minutes of stomping through the heather and checking and re-checking the map, I had no success. So I then crossed the road, and found the circle with no problem. It is just to your right when you go through the gate.

What I found was a very spread out circle, consisting of 20 stones, many of which have been placed there very recently, and are very loose. The stones range in height from 7 inches, to 32 inches, though some are sunken. One fallen stone, on the east side is 6 feet long, with a couple outliers just to the NW. There was a also a sunken stone in the middle, with offerings left: polished crystals (such as quartz), polished pebble, 50p, 20p, 10p and 2p coins, sea shells, berries, a button, and decomposing remains of fruit!

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Heading East from Ilfracombe - Knap Down, Kentisbury Down, and Culbone Stone & Rows


Date Visited Saturday 6th May 2000
Knap Down Standing Stone (Devon)
Grid Reference SS602469

Heading east from Ilfracombe, through Combe Martin, along the A399, an unclear left turn is needed! If I remember correctly, there was a signpost for Silver Dale Nurseries, which takes you along the required road. As is often the case, the road is steep, narrow, and very bendy! After a while, there will be two lanes either side of the road, in short succession. First to the left, then to the right. Very soon, there will be a gate to your left, with a field dividing hedge to the left of that gate; this is the only point of access for this stone, and the stone is situated diagonally right (NE) at the pinnacle of the field.

If using the 1:25000 scale map (recommended) the stone marked may be difficult to see on the map at first, as it sits just within the broad green line denoting Exmoor National Park. This stone stood near 5' 5" tall, and unusually, was very red in colour. On this beautiful spring day, its presence was like a the jewel in a crown of beauty - a field with green grass, innumerable daisies speckling it everywhere, hills to the north (a cairn was clearly silhouetted on the tallest), and a valley below, to the south. A local I spoke with, informed me that dowsers find this a particularly powerful stone; that in the legend which speaks of Jesus visiting England in his youth (ie Glastonbury etc), he visited this site; and that UFO actvitity has been witnessed in the area near the stone!

Kentisbury Down Standing Stones (Devon)
Grid References #1 SS637440 #2 SS637441 #3 SS639441 #4 SS639440
#5 SS638439 #6 638440

SE from Combe Martin, along the A399, west of Parracombe, lie a group of standing stones. Off the A399, turn right onto Down Lane, which has a broad green strip up the middle for as far as you can see. We parked in front of gate, (a wind pump should be to your front left) to allow for space for other vehicles; however, we were there some 40 minutes (Helen remaining in the car), and did not see one other vehicle!

Going left through the gate, head NE staying about 20 feet out from the hedge bordering the lane on your left, and to your right, a row of trees pointing SE acts as a very good point of reference. A tall stone should soon come into view; before this one, you will come to a lone stone (nothing more than a very large pebble, really, being only a few inches high). I believe this is the first stone, due to its location near the the larger stone. The row of trees should be to your rear right. Then, the larger stone is 5 feet tall, with a slight tilt eastwards, and inevitable indications of sheep grazing.

NE from there, not far off the main road, is a small, triangular stone, about a foot high at its point. The row of trees will be behind you, as you face the road. Heading towards the row of trees, a fallen stone, 2 feet in length (height), and then, to the front right, another large 'pebble'. When you reach this, between you and the row of trees, is a pond. When I visited, it was completely dry, but within its NW edge was a sizeable piece of stone, which I am convinced is a fallen stone, but perhaps was not visible to the cartographers due to its previous immersion in the pond.

Not an overtly impressive site, but due to the number of stones marked, I thought it of interest. It must be said, but I find stone hunting in the beauty of rural England in the beating down sunshine, one of the most sublime pleasures of life! Even if the stones are not high on the 'wow!' factor, it gives such a buzz, and makes life seem bearable!

Culbone Stone
SS834474
Date Visited Sunday 7th May 2000

Heading east on the A39 Lynmouth to Porlock road, you will see a pub (Culbone Inn?) to your right; imminently, there is a left hand turn onto a minor road, as the main road veers right. Take this left. Soon, to your left is a parking area, with a little sign and information board for the Culbone Stone:

"The Culbone Stone is an early medieaval standing stone approximately one meter in height, which was discovered in 1940. It lies in woodland close to the parish boundary, and features an incised wheeled cross, the style of which suggests it dates from 7th to 9th century. The stone is legally protected as a scheduled ancient monument. It is situated on private land over which there is no right of way but the owner has given permission for members of the public to visit the area in order to visit the stone provided they do so entirely at their own risk. Please keep to the marked path."

Well, some of this visit was most bizarre. We pulled up in thick fog, I got out of the car with my gear, following the path marked towards the stone. The path is easy and clear to follow, going through very low, dense trees either side. When I reached the Culbone Stone, set in a tiny clearing, the sun was beating down, just 5 minutes later! Given heavy rain the previous night, and then sudden hot sunshine, much of the wood was shrouded in evaporating water. The stone was a little overshadowed by a fallen tree, its enormous root ball, and a black gaping pit, and the other strange thing which uneased me most, was the complete lack of buzzing insects and birdsong. I was in the wood for half an hour in glorious sunshine, and do not recall encountering any other life apart from the trees, grass and plants. Call Mulder and Scully, I say!

The Culbone Stone is quite a curious little thing. The information says it dates from circa 7th century AD, but I half wonder if it was an attempt at the Christianisation of a Pagan monument, as it is literally 60 feet from the stone row? I do not by what criteria it was dated, but I think it's perhaps an idea to bear in mind.

Culbone Hill Stone Row

SS832473
Date Visited Sunday 7th May 2000

Due to the explicit request not to go off the path, I did not get much evidence of the stone row. This was maddeningly frustrating, given its imminent proximity! However, having studied the map, I went back to where the car was parked, turned left further up the track, and then left up another track, where it intersects the stone row (fenced off with barbed wire). Two stones were just visible to my left through the dense overhang of the trees, and further back up the track from where I'd came, to the right, across open land a few more stones could be seen in the distance. If I visit again in the future, I intend to contact the landowner to request permission to go into the woods to further look at the row.

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A puzzle solved at Carn Brea


Carn Brea Settlement, Rock Formations & Menhirs
SW683407
Visited Sunday 23rd June 2002, and a few days later!

Carn Brea comprises much of interest a settlement dated to about 3900 BC, a fortified enclosure some 3600 years old, a walled neolithic settlement at the western end, a dozen iron age hut circles between the central and eastern summits (go careful with the mineshafts!), great panoramic views, and amazing natural rock formations.

I love a mystery to solve, and Carn Brea certainly gave me that! Having gone past the hill several times on the A30 its appeal grew on me. When I read in The Romance of the Stones (TROTS) by Robin Payne (illustrated by Rosemarie Lewsey), it became a must-do.

When we first visited, a 5 stone was on the right as illustrated in TROTS; this obviously was not the menhir mentioned, as the illustration clearly depicts a stone smaller and wider than the one in the text. Later on the first visit, I saw a stone peeking over a large embankment, and resolved to make a return visit to further investigate.

TROTS also mentions two menhirs on Rock Farm, below Carn Brea on the south side, and I decided I'd also investigate those. Returning some days later with Craig Weatherill's book Cornovia, I set about finding the stones especially a missing 14 ¾ feet tall menhir!

First, I called on Rock Farm to enquire about permission to look around their land, and any knowledge of the stones. I was greeted by two pit bulls as I approached! Being determined as I was to find the stones, I continued the approach with one dog chained, and the other loose, sniffing around my legs. Thankfully my training and experience as a postman kept me cool when confronted with curious canines. At the house, a young lady, and a builder at the rear, both said OK to my looking around but both said they never had any knowledge of standing stones on the land there. Disappointedly, I retreated, and began going towards the stone I'd spotted at the end of my previous visit.

Immediately the tarmac surface ran out on the lane up from Carnkie, there was a footpath to the left it is very rough, and to the right, a steep embankment and fence most of the way up, meant access to this stone was much more difficult than I'd anticipated. Thankfully the embankment lowered, and chunky rocks enabled access to the field above the intended standing stone revealing another menhir in this field! Both fields were ungrazed, and baby gorse bushes were growing throughout most around ankle height – so I estimate the fields haven't been used in two or three years. Neither stone was 14 ¾ feet tall so I believe these two to be the Rock Farm menhirs mentioned in TROTS, as they are just above that property.

So, how do you lose a 14 ¾ feet tall standing stone? I knew that Cornovia had a picture of it so using that I did some photographic detective work and it showed the menhir in front of a rocky outcrop, in front of the castle that is on the east end of Carn Brea. I made my way to the outcrop, and only then did I spy the stone, with some companions, in the midsummer bracken! Thankfully I had an old pair of trousers on, and indulged my madness by walking through waist height (or more ) bracken and brambles, so I could look and photograph.

Carn Brea is an amazing place without the stones, the views, rock formations and rich archaeology; but the addition of several standing stones make it a good megalithic feast. I'm not convinced the tallest menhir is 14 ¾ feet tall, but nonetheless it is impressive. In addition to the two Rock Farm menhirs and unmentioned 5 foot standing stone, it gave me an enjoyable challenge to work out.

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Damage Barton Standing Stones, near Ilfracombe


Visited Friday 5th May 2000

Grid References #1 SS471462 #2 SS471464 #3 SS473466

Just a little to the west of Ilfracombe, lie 3 standing stones in close proximity to each other. Go west through the town centre, where the A399 becomes the A361. After a Church and Cemetry on your right on a bend, you will need to take a very sudden right hand turn towards Lee. One point of possible interest along the way, is a place called 'Whitestone', which is marked on the map. Around grid reference 497462, we saw an enormous white stone to the right of the road, before we descended a hill and it became obscured by a hedge. The stone was not marked on the map, but it looked a clear contender for a place worth looking at, access permiting.

Having driven through Lee, follow the road, driving very carefully, as there are numerous blind corners and steep hills; we used the car horn on numerous occasions to give warning that a vehicle (us) was coming around the corner. On the map, there is a place marked 'Hillymouth' (476463) on the left hand side of the road; here there is a sharp bend to the left; we parked on the bridleway which is at an angle to that bend. The bridleway did not appear in use for vehicular access (no tire tracks or ruts, and the bridleway becomes way too narrow for any 4 wheel vehicle).

We followed (on foot) the bridleway, over a small spring, through a field of very curious cows. At the top of this field, you come out onto a very good track. Just to the right there was a map of the immediate area, showing access routes and the standing stones. We followed this track to the right, and the first stone was to the left in the centre of the field. The miles of greenery were lovely; it really felt like a very romantic experience of England!

This stone was just short of 3 feet tall, at an angle, and well used by sheep as a scratch post. The next stone, we briefly retraced our steps, and went around to the adjoining field to the north; when more or less even with the first stone, we went straight north uphill, and came to the second stone, which is on a ridge. Given that the sea and Bristol Channel are not far off, this was a very windy location. The 4 foot 3 inch tall stone was set against some gorse bushes, in resplendent yellow bloom, making a pretty, if prickly backdrop!

For the final stone, we followed the top of the ridge to the east a short distance, until it was safe for us to go down, again heading north. We went through a gap in the wall, and to the far right in the field was the third stone. This was given an extra 11 inches height by sheep which had rubbed themselves for years against this stone; the stone's actual height was 3 feet 9 inches, and had a very high quartz content, if my assessment is correct.

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Rhos Y Beddau


First visited February 2000, return visit May 2003.

This is not a stone site to visit unprepared! Set well up in a remote part of the Berwyn mountains, you need good weather conditions, an OS map, some good walking boots, a sense of direction and a dose of lunacy may help!

It is situated about 10 miles south west of Oswestry, near Wales' tallest waterfall Pistyll Rhaedr (taller than the Niagara Falls). The name means "The Spout of Rhea's Water", Rhea being a celtic land goddess. Travelling south of Oswestry on the A483(T), turn west at Llynclys for Llanrhaedr-ym-Mochnant, in the Tanat Valley, on the B4396. Going through Llanrhaedr, watch out for a fairly obscure right turn for the waterfall; this is the only road. Both drivers I have been here with missed the turn on their first visit! About 3 miles along this road, you should see the waterfall swing into view. There is parking: £1 donation for the nearest to the waterfall; or (apparently) free a bit further back down the road.

I had been wanting to visit this site for several months, but lacked a suitable travelling companion, the time, and better weather conditions. Alas, a time came when I had a week off work, I had a friend willing to drive there and accompany me to the site (I had begun to attempt visiting this site with my pregnant wife, and 15 month old daugther, but had to give up!), and the weather forecast was good!

On arrival, the manager of Tan-y-Pistyll restaurant was in the car park. After a few brief words, I asked if the stone circle was still there, which it was; he gave me advice on how to find the stones, which came in invaluable (which I will also recount). Having looked around the waterfall, we set off up a track, which leads through some trees, then forks to the left, and zig-zags a few times. This is the steepest part of the journey! Follow the track up to the left. You will soon see access to the top of the waterfall (recommended viewing!), but keep going along the track for the stone site.

Heading westwards, stay on the lower path which runs about 200 yards parallel to the stream (Afon Disgynfa) on your left, for most of the journey. Some of the areas up here are very boggy, so watch your footing and plan your steps. Shortly after a fence and metal sheep enclosures, the path forks; take the lower path down to some fallen stone sheep enclosures, adjacent to the stream. The upper path is considerably more boggy, and brings you out too high to easily access the stone circle. Once at the sheep enclosures, you should see a rise between the dominant mountains, to the north west. You are nearly there! If you look at your OS map, you should be at the confluence of two streams; one running from the north, feeding the stream which feeds the waterfall. You will need to find your own way across this stream! Look for suitably large stones / rocks in the stream to go across! Once across, look to the rise immediately to your front right. Refer to your OS map once again. Just to the north there is a further confluence of streams, and west of that confluence is marked a cairn, and then a little further west, the stone circle.

Treading your way up through the bracken on the ridge (there is no path here!), head for the cairn, which is on the highest part of the ridge. Do not go to the N or NE side of this ridge - it is extremely boggy and wet. We approached from this angle, and it was a little alarming at how the ground sunk when trod on! The moor, and Berwyn mountains have many 'blanket bogs'; they are not mapped as such and are usually armpit deep; even so, I would not like to meet one. Once at the ridge you should see the cairn. To the east, if it is a good day, you will have an awesome view. To your SW, you should see a slightly lower ridge, about 300 feet away. It is unlikely you will see the stone circle from the cairn, as the stones, at the tallest are around 2 to 3 feet, and the area is covered with long grass. If you head towards the slightly lower ridge, and just keep your eyes peeled for some stones protruding from the grass.

I found the circle first of all, some 17 stones, with another stone in the middle. 3 stones were barely visible, 2 were sunken, 3 fallen sideways. The remainder varied in height from 10 inches, to 3 feet, approx. The circle was about 37 feet in diameter, and 120 feet in circumference. Feeling rather pleased with finding this, I went to the east side, and found another stone, and then another, treading down the grass in front of me. Eventually, I found 24 stones in a row this way, stretching some 150 feet. Running parallel to this was another row, coming to 19 stones. I felt each step carefully, finding some completely sunken stones this way. Both rows had the majority of stones in exact alignment with each other, with a few out of line. The northernmost row (19 stones) towards the eastern end, tapers in towards the southern row.

Interestingly, the site's name (Rhos-Y-Beddau) means 'The Moor of the Graves', which may show a connection with burial or funerary rites for the site. Although the weather forecast was sunshine all day, black clouds, and a strong SW wind was adding quite a chill up here, so we stayed at the most for half an hour. Later at home, seeing the satellite picture of the country, the skies were clear apart from the East of the country, and a blob over central Wales!

En route down we looked around the waterfall; if you do this, mind the mud! I trod in what looked 2 to 3 inches of mud, and went immediately down to my knee (thankfully only one leg!), which was rather worrying for a short space of time.

Do bear in mind that the whole area is a Site of Special Scientfic Interest, and the moor is a breeding ground for rare birds. Hen harriers, Peregrin falcons and Red Kites. Take care, and do not take anything or cause any damage!
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