Stockbrokers, squaddies and stock rearers I'm quite amazed at how much history still exists around the Surrey stockbroker belt, and the Aldershot/Farnborough squaddie belt, and this is just using one portion of the OS Explorer map (145) for the Guildford & Farnham area.
If you want an example of a barrow taken over by modern life, look no further than the large Cockadobby Hill Barrow which is now part of the busy "Queen's Roundabout". I was going to name it the Queen's Roundabout Barrow until I researched it on the internet and found that it is already known as Cockadobby Hill, which thankfully is much more fitting name for a messed up site.
I then tried to find a barrow that was marked on the map but which I suspected would be part of an army barracks. A spotty 17 year old on guard duty with an SA80 couldn't confirm or deny its whereabouts but I think it is probably within a barracks. I'll call it the Barossa Barracks Barrow.
Next stop was the fantastic Caesar's Camp Hill Fort, with great views, and little regard for access prohibited signs. No else seemed to care either. Not that far from Caesar's Camp a gaggle of 'tumuli' are marked on the map, but I couldn't stop easily so i'll return another day and take a closer look - I've called them the Heath Brow Barrows.
Then past Farnham to the rather plain Bourne Wood Barrow which is strictly for the hard-core only – nice little wood though.
And finishing with the Frensham Common Barrows which stand on the Kings' Ridge and overlook the marvellous Frensham Great Pond, which surprisingly dates back to the 13th Century as a man made pond to provide fish for the Bishop of Winchester's Estate, and now includes a sandy beach and accompanying burnt flesh on such a stinking hot day. It's believed that the common was a forest until Bronze Age stock rearers settled in the area and cleared it.
Plus there is still a lot to see in this map area, and I'm still finding stuff through the marvellous Hampshire County Council website….so expect more of this low-fi archaeology from the bull in the china shop.
Cockadobby Hill barrow - 31.5.2003
Aka - Queen's Roundabout Barrow
If you want an example of a barrow taken over by modern life, look no further than this large barrow that is now part of the busy "Queen's Roundabout" where the A3011 and A325 meet between Farnborough and Aldershot. Parking is obviously a bit of a problem, but there are several side roads within a 5 minute walk, or try the Holiday Inn; just off the roundabout.
The road, and a brick wall, cut into this bowl barrow on the East side, and a stone fountain / war memorial cuts into it on the North side, but otherwise it's still a pretty impressive size, maybe 3m high and 25m in diameter, encrusted with large trees all over, and some small but dense pines on the East side.
The Hampshire County Council website says that the barrow is on a natural rise in small clump of trees and is mutilated on the south west by old trench. It is a Scheduled Ancient Monument (number 12155) - grid reference SU 8683 5343. Caesar's Camp Hill Fort - 31.5.2003
Caesar's Camp is a fantastic Iron Age hill fort with stunning views all around, but I'm not convinced about access to it. "Access prohibited - Water Catchment Area" signs are dotted everywhere to the West and North; presumably due to the reservoirs to the West, and the general proximity to the heavily militarised area of Aldershot and Farnborough. However, I saw several people in the area, most at the summit of the fort, so either there is some permitted access somewhere (maybe from the South?) or maybe we were all just ignoring the signs!
After approaching from the west ('accidentally' ignoring the signs) and leaving via the north, I'd say that the simplest way to get to the fort without going beyond too many signs is to park at the large but rough car park at SU831510. Apart from here, there is supposed to be no parking just off the main road - there are lots of forest tracks/roads but all say 'No Parking' and other various warnings. From here, walk South East through the woods staying just north of the road, and then cross the road somewhere around SU836807. In this area several paths lead to towards the hill fort, which is clearly visible due south.
The hill fort itself is excellent, especially its large and doubled ramparts on the south side. It must have been a brilliant site; a hill with steep sides for defence but a huge flat interior, about 500m across its longest parts. The Surrey / Hampshire border cuts right through the fort. The view stretches for miles across the forest all over the north and west, cut only by the Farnborough Airfield site to the north east, and Tweseldown Race Course to the north west. The space age reservoir cover (?) can be seen from the north side, like a mini Eden Project dome. The Hampshire County Council website and the Rushmoor Borough Council website say that it is a Scheduled Ancient Monument (number 20185) - a large multivallate hillfort and later park pale at Caesar's Camp - grid reference SU 8355 5006. Jubilee Clump is a Stone Age (mesolithic) area of the interior of Caesar's Camp. Finds include cores, microliths and two tranchet axes. SU 837 502. Heath Brow Bowl barrows - 31.5.2003
Not that far from Caesar's Camp Hill Fort four 'tumuli' are marked on the map just to the SU822493. At a quick look this may also be 'sensitive' ground and there was no obvious place to park. I'll hopefully return another day and take a closer look. The Hampshire County Council website says that they are a Scheduled Ancient Monument - "Five bowl barrows situated at Heath Brow, east of the B3013. The group is sited in heath land among pine trees, bracken and heather"
The website also mentions occupation and finds in the area - "Many mesolithic implements found including scrapers, saws, long blades and two axes. Several other sites noted in the area, though some have been obliterated. Some finds in Willmer House Museum, Farnham." Bourne Wood Barrow - 31.5.2003
A lone barrow lies in Bourne Wood, which is part of the Foresty Commisssion's 'Alice Holt Forest', just off a minor which runs from Farnham Train station to Tilford.
There are many ways into the wood but a simple one is to turn off the main road at the north east cornetr of the wood, into 'Dene Lane'. There's no official parking place but the lane is wide enough at this point to park., whereas it's much narrower further down. Walk 150m down the lane, where multi-million pound houses doeminate the north side, and a small footpath starts at a wooden railing thingy and takes you up into the wood. After about 200m take the first footpath to the right (opposite the rear of Lobswood Manor) and about 150m further on the barrow lies on the right of the track. Or, I presume it does! A soory looking mound definitely stands out a little at this point and has a severely dug into top – the most dug into I have ever seen. The land confusingly drops significantly away to the north side; but it still looks like a barrow….just. Frensham Common Barrows – RB's - 31.5.2003
The common is full of well marked and maintained footpaths, so you can get to these wonderful barrows from many directions.
One simple and charming walk, is to park at the large carpark for Frensham Great Pond (which includes toilets, shop and free 'Walks Around Frensham Common' leaflet) and walk east around the north of the lovely pond, which is complete with sandy beach and good looking women. Then follow the yellow marked footpaths across the main A287 road, and up to the ridge ahead of you ('The King's Ridge'). This will take you straight to the edge of 'Barrow 2' where a really nice info board tells you about all four barrows.
The OS map shows 3 substantial barrows but in reality there is a lone barrow ('Barrow 1') 150m to the north of a tight cluster of three barrows in a row (Barrows 2, 3 and 4). Barrows 1 and 2 are very substantial, with barrows 3 and 4 being a smaller size. 'Barrow 1' has an info board again – a repeat of the one at Barrow 2.
Thankfully a lot of work has been recently done to reduce further erosion to these barrows, with cyclists and horse riders now forced to go around the barrows. The view from the ridge / barrows is spectacular, and there is an abundance of wildlife in the area (birds, lizards). Barossa Barracks Barrow - 31.5.2003
I tried to find a barrow that was marked on the map but which I suspected would be part of an army barracks. A spotty 17 year old on guard duty with an SA80 couldn't confirm or deny it's whereabouts but I think this is within an army barracks, and that the area will be strictly off-limits to general visitors. Either that or it may be slightly further south and may not being off limits.....
The site of the Barossa Barracks (see below for some of the history) is now taken up by the amorphous Montgomery Lines barracks, which includes 4 separate barracks; Arnhem Barracks, Bruneval Barracks, Normandy Barracks &, Rhine Barracks.
Judging for the map the barrow seems to be just off the road called 'Pennyfathers Rd' on the street map, possibly part of Bruneval Barracks? The Hampshire County Council website says "north east of the grounds of the prince Consort's library. 20.0m in diameter and 1.0m high. Trees grow on the perimeter. Barrow mutilated to form band-stand in early 1890s in grounds of the newly built Barossa Barrracks (on site of original hutments). Barossa barracks demolished early 1960s."
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Barrows and Hillforts In the absence of other sites, and some travel and time restrictions, I spent a few hours of the holiday weekend searching out several barrows and a couple of hill-forts, mainly in the New Forest.
On the way down to the New Forest I stopped at the charming St Catherine's Hill Fort and mizmaze, with its steep sides, butterflies, nearby plague pits and great views.
The Buckland Rings Hill Fort may qualify as the lowest hillfort in Britain and has a lack of friendly 'welcome' signs and public footpaths. Wouldn't it be great though to live within a hill fort? I then visited a couple of the barrows on Hatchet Moor / Beaulieu Heath, including the strangely named Pudding Barrow which is now part of the grounds of a caravan / camping site.
Despite the rain and their poor treatment (including both being right next to the road tracks that go past them and surely could have been routed slightly away from them) I could still appreciate the Setley Pond Barrow and the Longsdale View Barrow but couldn't totally approciate their lovely surroundings as it got darker and wetter.
Today I found out about another London barrow and visited it in Bushy Park barrow. Another mutilated and barely breathing barrow, but us London TMA'ers have to work in conditions that the rest of the Britain Isles, and Ireland, could hardly believe.
Bushy Park Barrow – 26.5.2003
I haven't looked this up on any national monuments record and the OS Explorer map 161 shows nothing, but its provenance seems secure as it is mentioned on the Royal Parks website and by local walker/historian/writer David McDowall.
The Royal Parks website says that "The flat site of Bushy Park has been settled for at least 4,000 years. A Bronze Age barrow & burial mound was excavated near Sandy Lane and the contents are now housed in the British Museum."
It also adds that the park contains "clear remains of mediaeval settlements, with the finest example found South of Waterhouse Woodland Gardens, where there are traces of the largest and most complex mediaeval field system in Middlesex."
To find the barrow walk into Bushy Park by the Teddington Gate, turn left and walk along the path for about 250 metres. This is it – only a small hump, and now of an irregular shape, but it is a barrow, unbeknown to all the walkers and cyclists who go straight over its top. David McDowall says that it originally ran beyond the park wall. Pudding Barrow - 24.5.2003
This is now part of the grounds of Round Hill caravan / camping site, but you can certainly walk straight into the site from Hatchet Moor / Beaulieu Heath.
The barrow is now fenced in, presumably to stop kids and mountain bikes damaging it. It certainly looks a bit worse for wear, but the fence should now protect it, and it's nice to see a good English Heritage / Forestry Commission info board on the East side which should help educate a few bored campers. A brief conversation with a charming extended family of campers who had been having a piss-up on the airfield suggested that it had only recently been fenced in. The board says that most of the Beaulieu Heath barrows were destroyed in 1941 when they built the airfield. This one is now a Scheduled Ancient Monument. It's a similar size to the other barrows I saw in the New Forest (about 20-25m diameter, 1 to 1.5m tall) Beaulieu Heath Barrows – 24.5.2003
I only had time to visit two of the barrows doted around the large Hatchet Moor / Beaulieu Heath area. The first was at SU345012, only 500m from the main B3055 road. It looks a bit ravaged, in a scrubby area populated by rabbits, and it trapped on two sides by old airfield roads. The barrow is about 25m diameter and 1.4m tall. The second is the Pudding Barrow, which already has an individual listing. Buckland Rings Hill Fort - 24.5.2003
It's a funny old hillfort this, because it's barely 30-35 metres above sea level, and not surprisingly is not on much of a hill at all. Does this qualify as the lowest hillfort in Britain?
It also all seems to be on private land and with no friendly 'welcome' signs around. Two houses ('Little Rings' and 'Buckland Rings Cottage' – I think, didn't write it down…oops) seem to have its roadside part. The driveway and woods up to 'Little Rings' contains the ramparts of the north-east corner. I walked along the road side (which has a clear gap in the trees near this north-east corner but also has a 'private' sign) to the south-west corner where I made my way through the trees to sneak a peak and some piccies of the southern ramparts. St Catherine's Hill Fort - 24.5.2003
There were other sites I could have stopped at on the way down to the New Forest but with limited time this proved a decent bet, and probably more interesting for my passenger that an obscure barrow in the middle of a farm field.
The walk up from the car park (by the old railway bridge at 484280) is pretty harsh, but short, and the main path brings you straight into one of the most impressive parts of the ramparts.
A short walk on and you reach the north-east entrance, which leads towards the mizmaze. The east sides gives great views across Winchester. Fortunately the roar from the M3 isn't that bad because most of it is in a cutting; and anyway, most people visiting the hill fort have probably just used the same M-way to get here so car drivers cannot complain that much. As you walk across the centre of the fort towards the south you slowly drop, which gave me the impression that the ramparts might not be very impressive on the south side, but they are and use the natural steepness of the hill. Walking down the wooden footpath and right, along the stream, brings you back to the car park. Setley Pond Barrow – 24.5.2003
This nice, but poorly treated barrow, lies on the left hand side, 100m down the track that leads to Setley Pond from the main road that crosses Setley Plain. It looks a bit ravaged, with a slightly hollowed top, and is in a gorsey scrubby area populated by rabbits. It's not totally clear if it is a bowl or bell barrow, but the bank and ditch around it is very strong. The barrow is circa 25m in diameter. There is a 'Bushy Park History Room' so if anyone wants to research the barrow maybe they could try here. It is staffed by volunteers, and located within White Lodge at the Stockyard. Visitors are welcome by prior appointment with the Park Office, White Lodge, The Stockyard
Bushy Park, Hampton Court Road, Hampton, TW12 2EJ. Tel: 020 8979 1586. Fax: 020 8941 8196. This info was taken from www.royalparks.gov.uk/bushy_events.htm
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A day on the Commons The alternative title is 'The A3'. But that's not very sexy and makes it sound like I didn't get out of the car all day.
Anyway, whilst browsing the OS maps for Guildford/Farnham (Explorer 145) and London South (Explorer 161) I found a couple of places to explore, plus a few already on the TMA website, and all of them were vaguely close to the A3/M25 in Surrey.
Later I realised that the one thing most of them shared in common (no pun intended) was that they were on common land, which may seem like a rarity so close to London and the stockbroker belt, but there are actually some fantastic places to wander in the M25 area. The other thing most of them shared in common was lots of litter. And condoms – well, not quite the last one but I guessed the area near the car park at Oakham Common must be a favourite cruising area for some nocturnal action. Later I looked it up on the web and it said 'A Good Place To Go!!!!' 'Sometimes there are over two hundred cars here at night...", but also that "a young prostitute's body was found in the woods here in 1999" ……….I'll get my coat.
So, I explored a barrow and mound at Wisley Common, the sad little Pyrford Stone – overshadowed by its mega rich neighbours and their white picket fences (reminded me of the film 'Blue Velvet' - I half expected to find a severed ear in the grass), the Horsell Common barrows, one of which is huge and a very good example of a bell barrow, and finished with a real woodland mystery walk to either find the Ashtead Common Earthwork and possible barrows, or to die at the hands of some southern rednecks hiding in the woods – squeal little piggy squeal.
Wisley Common Barrow - 11.5.2003
The easiest way to get to the Cockcrow Hill area of Wisley Common, where the barrow and mound are, is to start at the car park / visitors centre for Wisley and Oakham Commons (840 acres in all!) at TQ079587. The visitor's centre consists of toilets, a small shop and a little local info (nothing about the ancient sites though). You can't turn in towards the car park if you are coming from the south-west (i.e. if driving towards London) – you have to go up the M25 junction and return.
Just to the right of the visitors centre, take a path (marked 'Horse Riders') up and over Curries Clump, which is strewn with condom wrappers and tissues. I guess this area is a perfect woodland cruising spot or something, being so close to the junction of the A3/M25? As you come down the clump the footbridge over the huge A3 is on your left. As you get to the other side you are now in Wisley Common, where some maps and info are pined up on a board and say that both the mound and barrow are Scheduled Ancient Monuments.
The easiest way to get to the barrow is to follow the woodland road around to its end, close to the A3. The huge barrow is then on your left, about 40 metres in diameter and 5 - 6m high I'd guess. There are lots of smaller mounds around the area, but I presume it's this big beastie that is the barrow. Wisley Common Bowl Barrow - 11.5.2003
From the Wisley Common Bell Barrow, the barrow is just 300 m west. Walk back up the woodland road for 100 m towards where it bends sharply and there is a metal barrier. Either walk straight ahead, up a woodland track, where the mound can be seen on the edge of the clearing to your right, or pass past the metal barrier, walk 40 metres up the sandy path and look across the clearing, where you will see the mound 100 metres or so to the west.
The barrow is called a 'mound' on the map, but the info on English Heritage's record of scheduled monuments (see link below) says it is a bowl barrow. The mound is not particularly high but from the top you can clearly see that there is nothing else like it in the vicinity. The mound is mainly covered in woodland ferns (tinder dry when I was there) but several trees are scattered around it towards the outside of the mound, especially at the south and west edges.
Just to the west of the mound there is an interesting circle / ditch on the ground about 10m in diameter. It is totally clear of vegetation, unlike everything around it and looks strangely like a small bell barrow without the middle barrow part. Pyrford Stone - 11.5.2003
Yep, the grid ref is spot on Rhiannon. However the grass verge where the stone lies is actually directly opposite Upshott Lane. And yes that verge is part of the ridiculously Big Brother-ish entrance to 'Pyrford Court', littered with signs saying 'Private Property – No Turning – No Parking' and warned you of CCTV cameras. To put it politely, fuck that! No Turning? Umm, why? What harm does that do? And do they fail to see the irony of what the stone's plaque says about it being "on this corner since time immemorial"?
The stone is tiny (85cm x 40cm) and eerily smooth with a sharp-ish edge on its east side. It is extremely small to be a possible ancient standing stone, however the top is flat as if maybe it was larger before and had been broken?
The plaque reads "This boundary stone dates from before the Norman Conquest and is possibly a prehistoric standing stone. Situated on this corner since time immemorial, it was moved to its present position during road widening. This plaque was donated by local residents in 1976" Horsell Common Barrows – 11.5.2003
If you are approaching this from the south, drive slowly over the charming canal bridge (with bright white pillars and jet black railings) just after the railway bridge because the only car park in the area is immediately on your right after the canal bridge and is not signposted (it's just opposite 'Britannia Wharf'). I missed it and had to drive up to the large roundabout and return – there was no parking off the road elsewhere.
I think the easterly barrow is just to the right of the car park entrance. I parked, looked ahead and there was this large mound complete with classic hollowed top, trees and litter! It's hard to tell the size of it due to the trees and brambles, but I'd guess about 20 m diameter and 1- 1.5m high.
The westerly barrow is reached by crossing the road and following a path for about 200 metres through woodland until you come to a clearing and the enormous bowl barrow is slap bang in front of you (the path actually goes up and over it). It's a pretty dramatic setting, in this clearing surrounded by pine and birch trees.
I reckon it's about 35-40 m in diameter and 1.5-2 m high. It is an excellent example of a bowl barrow, especially so close to London; the outer ditch and bank can clearly be seen all the way around, rising to a maximum of about 60cm high for the bank and about 30cm deep for the ditch. When I visited the bracken had been totally burnt off. I'd guess it wasn't deliberate environmental management because the trees to the west (mainly young silver birch's) were also burnt, as were some of the trees to the east (i.e. back towards the main road) An interesting general page on the 'pre history' of Woking. Includes a brief mention of barrows, plus an aerial pic of the western barrow in the 1920's. Ashtead Common Earthwork - 11.5.2003
The obvious place to start is the Epsom Common car park at TQ183611, which is clearly shown on the OS map but isn't signposted from the road. I then took a path south where you will come to a 'path junction' with three choices. Take the one to the south-west towards a large Corporation Of London sign / info board, which marks the start of Ashtead Common. The Corporation Of London owns and manages 200 hectares of Ashtead Common, which was declared a National Nature Reserve in 1995. The bridleway then skirts the privately owned Newton Wood and a lovely herd of Jersey cows were grazing the farmland to the North. Someone has rightly questioned one of the Newton Wood signs that say 'Private – No Right of Way' by adding 'why not?' on it – it seems strange that this wood is private when all around is open access. Soon you'll come to another info board, which marked the start of my epic attempt to find the earthwork and two other things that looked like barrows on the OS map.
The common is pretty dense woodland and very confusing. There are a lot more paths than are marked on the map and although I think I found everything I was trying to find I honestly couldn't say accurately how I found them or how to get to them! After taking the path south from the info board at TQ178606 to try to find the earthworks, and finding it difficult to find, I would actually suggest that an easier way might be to take the path from TQ176605, which should lead directly to the edge of the earthwork and close to the two possible barrows.
I'm pretty sure I found the earthwork (which incidentally is a scheduled Ancient Monument) in the jumble of paths and woodland. Well I certainly found a large area of land at the brow of the hill with irregular banks and ditches around it. I would love to know more about it. Incidentally a notice at one of the info boards previously mentioned said that they would be clearing trees on an around the earthwork in September 2003 – call 01372 279083 for more info.
There are two 'star' symbols on the OS map just north of the earthwork that usually signify barrows, but the usual word 'tumuli' isn't present. Anyway I did find two things that look like barrows but I'm hesitant to post details up because when I got home I couldn't find any reference on the internet and I found a large scale map of the common on the Corporation Of London website, which makes no mention of the barrows, but does place the site of a Roman Villa in the area…..hmmm?
Anyway, a very lovely walk in a beautiful, if dis-orientating, place! Includes the larger scale map I mention in my fieldnotes - which would have been useful to have before I visited I found a this on the web....."This was excavated in the early part of the 20th century and signs found of a cremation that had taken place thousands of years before, There were signs also of an excavation that is believed to have been made during the 18th century, during a search for iron ore; and certainly the parallel trenches which cut across the common were also made in the search for iron."
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Another Kernow Week In a stroke of genius I booked another week in Cornwall for the week the clocks change, and a week of stunning weather! It is early April and Bodmin Moor is tinder dry. Just before I arrived there had been several small fires in North Cornwall nd the day I left there was a large gorse fire at the other end of Cornwall (on the Lizard peninsula).
I stopped off in Dartmoor on the way, the sun was blazing and Fernworthy forest was so peaceful. Although it's usually only the circle that is talked about Fernworthy is one of these 'complexs' with a stone circle , two cairns and cairn circles, two stone rows, and possible others. I was so taken in that I began to think I was an archaeologist for a day and soon I will have to unleash diagrams onto this fantastic TMA site! The south side of the forest also has a stone row. And a brisk walk onto the moor brings you to the Greywethers, a restored and stunning double circle. I also tried to find the Heath Stone on the way out. Does visiting ancient sites get much better than today?
On Sunday I went to the St Breock Downs area, checking out the St Breock Wind Farm Barrow, the colossal Men Gurta Menhir, and peering at the St. Breock Downs Menhir. I then moved south to the China Clay country (sounds like a theme park) to find the moved Menevagar / Roche Longstone and the huge Hensbarrow - this is the highest natural point in the area and the views back across the valley are stunning, with the St Breock Downs wind farm clearly visible. However, if you ignore the nice bit of the view you could just as easily think you are sitting on the moon as the clay works surround you. To round off a pretty lazy day I visited the two sites closest to where I was staying – Headon Barrow and Warbstow Bury, the later being quite stunning and the best-preserved hill slope fort in Cornwall.
On Monday I pleasured myself (steady on!) with a trip to the St.Austell Brewery - http://www.staustellbrewery.co.uk - and onto Mevagissey for sarnies on the harbour. I had forgotten my maps so instead of heading off for some yomping on Bodmin Moor I had to pull Plan B out, which was a visit to The County Museum in Truro - http://www.royalcornwallmuseum.org.uk - I knew that the famed cup marked stone from the Tregiffian Burial Chamber was there, as was a copy of the Rillaton Cup, and other things. There is a huge amount to see and as they are a registered charity it is £4 well spent (and please fill out a Gift Aid form, so they can reclaim your tax!)
Tuesday led me on a huge barrow hunt, including the massive Tich Barrow, one of the Starapark Barrows, the Advent Triple Barrow (a rarity), and the Crowdy Reservoir Barrow and then several wind swept hours in the Roughtor area, including the Showery Tor ring cairn and cheesewring, and the Showery Tor Embanked Avenue, the Showery Tor Downs Cairn, Roughtor Slopes Cairn and three possible standing stones in the area. In an action packed day I also went to the fascinating King Arthur's Hall, , the nearby King Arthur's Downs Stone Circles, the Casehill Cairn, and explored around the area; expect a diagram soon! On the way home I had a quick stop at Helsbury Castle.
Like it or loathe it I thought The Museum of Witchcraft - http://www.museumofwitchcraft.com - was worth a visit so the next day I went to see it in Boscastle's picturesque harbour. I was glad to see the Museum asking people not to have fires, leave rubbish or 'inappropriate offerings' at ancient sites. Later I visited three great cliff castle's close by – Willabury Cliff Castle (Boscastle) plus the fascinating 'stitch' system of agriculture on Forrabury Common, Willabury Cliff Castle (Tintagel), and Tintagel itself. I also saw the curious Rocky Valley Rock Carvings but I'm even less convinced now. I had a quick search for Ugworthy Barrows (actually over the border in Devon) and the rare Woolley Long Barrow.
I really don't seem to have got the hang of these 'holidays' have I? Not much resting going on, so I only went out on the moors late on Thursday, and spent some of Friday re-reading one of favourite books on the beach at Crackington Haven ('Life and Times of Michael K' by J.M.Coetzee if anyone is interested).
So several hours on Thursday were spent on Fox Tor & East Moor and in the Leskernick area of Bodmin Moor. Two totally different environments in one way (the former gorsey and brown, the later green but scarred and pitted like the moon) separated by the A30 but both full of ancient sites, and continued finds. East Moor includes the Fox Tor Stone Row (apparently), the East Moor Stone Row, and possible Menhir / Stone setting, and the Nine Stones of Altarnun. The Leskernick area is still being explored and new things still being found. My few hours included Leskernick Stone Row, a cairn near the stone row, Leskernick Stone Circel (Northern), Leskernick Stone Circle (South), the Leskernick 'Quoit', the Cairns on the summit of The Beacon, and a possible Kerbed Cairn and Barrow Cemetery on The Beacon
St Breock Wind Farm Barrow - 30.3.2003
In the absence of any name I know of I've given it this name. Marked on the OS map (Explorer 106) simply as 'Tumulus'. I visited this because I thought it was the one mentioned in passing by Craig Weatherhill in "Cornovia: Ancient Sites of Cornwall & Scilly" (Cornwall Books - 1985, revised 1997 & 2000) as an "unusual barrow at SW974683. 1m high and 22m across, the mound is encircled by a ditch and outer bank, giving the monument an overall diameter of 34m". However, the barrow I visited is clearly at SW976682 and doesn't have any ditch or bank that I could see. Lots of cow shit all around it and a dip in its top, full of cairn-like stones, but no bank and ditch. In the area the OS map does also say 'tumuli' up towards the actual wind farm so maybe that's what Craig Weatherhill means?
Technically I was trespassing but it is tantalising close to the road and a farm gate, and the field had no crops or livestock, so I took a quick look without asking. Hensbarrow - 30.3.2003
I guess we should be 'grateful' that somehow this has been allowed to survive considering it has spoil heaps from old china clay working right next to it on the East side, and huge new works just across the Hensbarrow Downs to the West. Although the triangulation pillar on top, and the row of boundary marker stones (including one right on top!) detract from it a little, maybe they have also helped ensure its survival.
A side road just off the B3274 south of Roche leads up the western side of Hensbarrow Downs. As you approach the brow of the hill (opposite the entrance to the new works) there is a circular parking area, marked by two fading red and white poles (which show that it used to be used for clay working). From here Hensbarrow is just a 300 metre walk to the east, clearly visible straight in front of you. Yes, it really is that big! Craig Weatherhill, in "Cornovia: Ancient Sites of Cornwall & Scilly" (Cornwall Books - 1985, revised 1997 & 2000) says it is 5.4 m high and 36 m in diameter, although it does add that it may have been unnaturally enlarged when it was used as a modern beacon. If you prefer more of a walk, there are lots of public footpaths around the Hensbarrow Downs that you could also use to get the barrow.
At 312 metres above sea level this is the highest natural point in the area and the views back across the valley (North) are stunning, with the St Breock Down wind farm clearly visible. However, if you ignore the nice bit of the view you could just as easily think you are sitting on the moon as the clay works surround you. Heath Stone - 29.3.2003
I noticed this on the OS map, just outside the entrance to Fernworthy Forest. I know nothing more about it and I'm not sure if I found it! I thought it would be really easy, but there are a lot of stones around and what look like old stone boundaries. I took a photo of what I think I might be - that is the only standing stone in the area, even though it's not of much size. Tich Barrow - 1.4.2003
This massive barrow is right next to the A39, just over a kilometre south of Otterham Station. It stands on the brow of the hill (near a side road to Davidstow) a few metres away from a transmitter station. The barrow has possibly been probably been damaged a bit by the lay-by (now partly closed) on its South East side and also possibly by the main road on its North West side.
There are three other barrows in the area although none of sheer scale of Tich Barrow; one in the field across the road to the West (approx SX145881), and two in a sheep field across the road to the North (approx SX148884). Headon Barrow - 30.3.2003
This caught my eye on the map because it was a barrow with a name and because it looked like it was very close to the road. From the A39 at Wainhouse Corner take the South East road (towards Headon Cross). Headon Barrow is situated 100m before Headon Cross (which is recognisable because 5 country lanes meet here and Eden Methodist Chapel sticks out like a sore thumb). Just opposite the barrow there is a small lay-by, by a farm gate. Judging from how the bank next to road is unusually large and steep and sticks right into the road I guess that the barrow has been sliced partly in two by the road. I couldn't really explore the barrow at all - it is covered in trees and bushes, and is officially in a farm field. However there was a small gap in the hedge, just opposite the lay-by, which seemed to invite me in! I took a quick look and a photo, but that was all. Given all of the above it's very difficult for me to put a size on it, but it strikes me that the barrow of quite considerable size. Advent Triple Barrow - 1.4.2003
This rare triple barrow is handily placed right next to a lay-by / passing place on a minor road 150 metres from the entrance to Crowdy Reservoir, although there is no entrance into the field here. It's quite a sight and is surrounded by a ditch that is now well trodden by the livestock.
Craig Weatherhill, in "Cornovia: Ancient Sites of Cornwall & Scilly" (Cornwall Books - 1985, revised 1997 & 2000) says "Bronze Age triple round barrows are area outside Wiltshire. This example has three mounds about 1.2m high and 24 m in diameter, aligned roughly north-west to south-east, surrounded by a shallow oval ditch with diameters of 67m and 37m. There are no records of any finds, even though all three mounds have hollowed centres".
There is another barrow further along this road, just past the water works, at SX127830. It was a pretty standard looking barrow, with sheep clambering all over it. Crowdy Reservoir Barrow (s) - 1.4.2003
In the absence of any name I know of I've given it this name. This barrow has fortunately survived the Crowdy Reservoir, and is now sandwiched between the track to the Crowdy Reservoir car park, and another small track that leads down to the bottom of the dam. It's about 15 metres across and has a large hollow on top. A single stone (about a metre tall) stands on the north edge of the barrow.
A small map in "Bodmin Moor's Archaeological Heritage" by Peter Herring and Peter Rose (Cornwall County Council - 2001) suggests that there are two other barrows on the other side of the dam. I think there are traces of a possible barrow about 40m away from the Easterly side of the dam (parallel with the shoreline). There are three stones here, a very slight mound and a central depression. Showery Tor Embanked Avenue - approx SX147813 - 1.4.2003
Peter Herring and Peter Rose, in 'Bodmin Moor's Archaeological Heritage' (Cornwall County Council - 2001) have put forward the idea of two 'embanked avenues' on Bodmin Moor which may well have been used in processions. Each is formed by two banks of stones and may be the equivalent of a 'cursus'. One leads from the West directly towards the tor cairn at Showery Tor (i.e it's on the west side of Showery Tor). The other is even more impressive and forms part of a major alignment between the Craddock Moor Stone Circle and Stone Row
The Showery Tor Embanked Avenue is about 4 metres wide and about 60 metres long, and is relatively easy to see becuase there is a distinct avenue that does lead towards the Tor, but where exactly it starts and stops, and what it was actually used for is not so clear. Showery Tor ring cairn and cheesewring - 1.4.2003
This is a pretty dramatic setting for a ring cairn. Ring cairns are often made around prominent sites. Craig Weatherhill, in "Cornovia: Ancient Sites of Cornwall & Scilly" (Cornwall Books - 1985, revised 1997 & 2000) says "A natural formation of weathered granite, 5.0m high and reminiscent of the Cheesewring on Stowe's Hill [near the Hurlers ], is surrounded by a massive ring cairn of piled stone 30m in diameter and up to 1.2m high. The natural formation was evidently intended as a focal point. No excavations have been recorded at this site, so it is not known how many, if any, burials were associated with this presumably Bronze Age site" Showery Tor Downs Cairn - 1.4.2003
In the absence of any name I know of I've given it this name. There is a large cairn 450 metres North of Showery Tor. It is severely hollowed in the middle. Roughtor Slopes Cairn - 1.4.2003
Again, in the absence of any name I know of I've given it this name. It's a small but interesting cairn not far from the Roughtor car park. Although it's not that big, and has been seriously hollowed and eroded by livestock, it's interesting because it has a stone at its peak leaning close to the floor. The stone measures 175cm x 50 x 55. It has quite a strong groove in its top and near its head and looks very phallic to me! Casehill Cairn - 1.4.2003
Again, in the absence of any name I know of I've given it this name. On the way to or from the more well known sites on King Arthur's Downs you may wish to have a quick look at what seems to be a kerbed cairn. It is certainly a cairn, about 14 metres across and probably damaged by the field wall. It has nine stones around it (some large), including one in the field wall, which suggests it may have been a kerbed cairn (i.e. a cairn that was surrounded by small standing stones at its edge). Willabury Cliff Castle (Boscastle) - 2.4.2003
Not to be confused with the other Willabury Cliff Castle, about 4 kilometres to the West, towards Tintagel.
There are three main ways to reach this. 1) Via the cliff side path from the West (from Tintagel way), 2) Via the cliff side path from the East side, which can be joined on the South side of Boscastle Harbour (and which unlike the suggestion on the OS map does not involve walking along the main road, which doesn't have a footpath), and 3) via Forrabury Common. All are great but I would highly recommend a trip over the common, which can be reached via a footpath (approx SX098909) that begins from a small offshoot of the main road as it nears the top of the very steep hill south from Boscastle Harbour area. The common has one of the few remaining 'stitch' systems of agriculture in the country, and a pretty active one at that it seems. As I walked across a tractor was roughing up one of the 'stitches' (a long thin strip of land, separated from the next strip by a low bank); something which the seagulls loved! It also gives you a great view of the cliff castle.
The castle only had one line of defence which barely survives today. The ramparts are 110m long and are up to a height of 1.8m, fronted by a ditch of up to 0.8m deep. Craig Weatherhill, in "Cornovia: Ancient Sites of Cornwall & Scilly" (Cornwall Books - 1985, revised 1997 & 2000) says that the position of the original entrance is uncertain and that it is probably where the footpath cuts through the bank today. Presumably they mean the more southerly path which seems to be the main path today (there is also a more northerly path - i.e. on the Boscastle Harbour side). As expected the views are stunning, and the strange white building on its summit (built in the early 19th Century as a summerhouse) will soon be re-opened as a Coast Guard Watch. The rampart is strongest at its northern edge - but don't fall into the sea exploring it! Its easier to see from the cliff path back to Boscastle Harbour. Willabury Cliff Castle (Tintagel) - 2.4.2003
Not to be confused with the other Willabury Cliff Castle, about 4 kilometres to the East, at Boscastle. However they do share a lot - the coastline, having only one line of defence, and amazing scenery. This is a huge cliff castle, but doesn't look easy to defend, especially when compared to the other local examples at Tintagel and Boscastle.
I arrived via the cliff path from Tintagel, which was quite steep in places, and parts of which were being used by cattle (honest! the local farm, approx SX057888, seemed like a bit of a mess when I walked through it on the way back). The field boundaries are also interesting because twice I saw walls go right down to the cliff edge! One was a normal thick stone wall, and one (just west of Willapark) was just a wall of upright slate slabs.
Willapark is very visible as you walk the path but it never seems to get closer! Eventually you reach a gate with a National Trust 'Willapark' sign, and after more walking you come to a wall and suddenly the whole of the coastline up to Firebeacon Hill opens out in front of you, plus the white building of Boscastle Cliff castle is just visible in the background as well - stunning.
The castle is surprisingly flat and very large. A moulding modern wall stands on top of the mutilated rampart , the entrance through which is now unidentifiable. A lot of the thick gorse was being cleared - until it's clear it's giving great yellow blooms which almost makes up for it ferocious thorns. I walked right over to the north edge, overlooking its little sister Lye Rock which harbours lots of seagulls. My view of seagulls changed today. I spent quite a while taking in the view and then ten minutes flat on my back just watching the seagulls hover and swoop on the brash wind - it was sublime and reminded me of the scene in American Beauty when they watch a video of a plastic bag 'dancing' in the wind. Leskernick complex - Leskernick Hill Stone Row – 3.4.2003
Time was running out and I'd had half a day of looking for minute stone rows so I didn't try to map this, just to recognise it, which wasn't that easy. After a while this lunar landscape starts to all look the same. A decent starting point is the large cairn close to the western end of the stone row. If you have a GPS system the row is situated between SX18707986 and 19017991. Leskernick complex - Northern Stone Circle - 3.4.2003
Don't ask me to explain how I found this because I'm not sure it was very logical. And later, from the slopes of Leskernick Hill I thought I'd spotted it again, but then promptly 'lost' it again. It isn't very obvious. I'll do a drawing of it soon..... Leskernick complex - Southern Stone Circle - 3.4.2003
I found this relatively easy to spot from the top of Leskernick Hill, whereas I couldn't see it earlier from the ground. Once you get there it is clearly a decent circle that would have been pretty impressive when upright. I'll do a drawing of it soon. As I was getting ready to leave a line of cows were making their way over from the East of Leskernick Hill (I hadn't seen any cows up to that point - just lots of ponies and some sheep, all on Leskernick Hill) making lots of load mooos. As I walked off to go up Beacon Hill they were still coming, in a long line. Later, when I looked back from the hill I realised they had stopped in the circle, almost as though they were reclaiming it from the human who had just been looking at it.
Craig Weatherhill, in "Cornovia: Ancient Sites of Cornwall & Scilly" (Cornwall Books - 1985, revised 1997 & 2000) says it was only 'discovered' in 1973. 22 stones have been traced, some buried, some fallen. There are no upright stones except for a stump on the east side. A true circle with a diameter of 30.6m indicated. Men Gurta Menhir - 30.3.2003
Marked on the OS map (Explorer 106) as 'Longstone'. Just a few metres from 'The Saint's Way'. The stone seems to be known by various names - the info plaque called it the St Breock Downs Longstone and translates it as "Menhyr Gun Sen Brioc".
This is a true stunner. After having seen many of the usual slim, or diamond shaped Cornish menhirs, this is a quartz streaked monstrous slab of rock! I won't try to describe how to get here as you'll probably need a map to get it anyway, or you can head for the St Breock wind farm and try to pick up the dead end road that leads up towards it. Lovely views all around, and to the sea. Slight shame that a large rubbishy tip / soon to be bonfire looking thing was close by (complete with small abandoned cement mixer).
The small info plaque says "This is a prehistoric standing stone, perhaps of middle to late Bronze Age (2000-600 BC). The stone originally stood in a setting of quartz pebbles associated with a cairn, which was not used for burials. It was originally 4.9 metres high, but was damaged and its height reduced. Weighing an estimated 16.5 tons it is still the heaviest in Cornwall. The monument figures in local folklore as a medieval and later meeting place, and it was later adopted as a St Breock Parish boundary marker". St Breock Downs Menhir - 30.3.2003
Marked on the OS map (Explorer 106) as 'Standing Stone'. Clearly visible in the field on the way up the Men Gurta Menhir. I didn't actually go up to the stone fro several reasons - it is officially on someone's land with no public footpaths close by, and there is no easy way into the field which has recently had a new fence. At a quick look the only way I could see was via the field to the East (where the St Breock Wind Farm Barrow is) 'Roche / Menevagar Longstone' - 30.3.2003
Known as the 'Roche Longstone' by Craig Weatherhill who says in "Cornovia: Ancient Sites of Cornwall & Scilly" (Cornwall Books - 1985, revised 1997 & 2000), "This fine Bronze Age menhir was moved to its present position a few years ago as its original site on Longstone Downs (at SW984561) was to be swallowed by the extension of china clay working. Excavations found that this broad, pointed slab, 3.2 high, had replaced an earlier stone, which in turn, had taken the place of a wooden post".
Cornovia says it stands at 'Holmleigh Crescent' and shows a picture of it. I was so busy looking for Holmleigh Crescent and / or a big bare stone, that it took me a while to actually see it. It's actually in 'Harmony Close' - maybe they've changed the name of the road because it doesn't look like it's been moved again. And it now is almost surrounded in shrubs and flowers (all very nice but a bit unnecessary, and obscuring the plaque that tells us that it was moved in August 1970). It's on the road towards St. Dennis, very close to the main road (the B3274) - literally 40 metres from the main road, just past the launderette.
As I had driven from St.Breock Downs towards Roche on the B3274 I the china clay works on the hill opposite dominated the skyline. I don't think I'd seen anything quite like it before. Note the names on the OS map around the area where the stone came from - 'Great Longstone China Clay Works', 'Longstone China Clay Works', and 'Longstone Downs'.
There must be something about the name Roche – have a look at what Four Winds says about the standing stone at RochestownWarbstow Bury - 30.3.2003
This is quite stunning. The views are fantastic, and the whole site is very impressive. It was also the first hill slope fort I had visited, and the size and relative complexity of the ditches and ramparts helped make this place special for me.
Access is great not only because there is a small car park and are several well maintained public footpaths in the area but also because the circular field of Warbstow Bury and the field to the north west (hay meadow) has been in the ownership of North Cornwall District Council since 1987, and a 'Countryside Stewardship' arrangement was made in 1997 - the latter usually means that a local farmer will look after the area whilst they also farm it.
There are nice info boards at the two entrances (i.e. from the car park at 203907, and from the hay meadow / North west entrance at 200908). The info board describes it as the second largest, and best preserved, Iron Age hill fort in Cornwall. It also gives a drawing / picture of a Bronze Age bowl that was found nearby and is said to be a fine example of metal working of the age. It also says that the internal mound (see 'folklore' posts below) is a puzzle and may be a pillow mound, a managed rabbit warren from the medieval period. Whatever it is, it's not really impressive, especially when dwarfed by the forts massive ditches and ramparts.
The map shows one large field to the north west, but it's now been subdivided into three; the footpath is still fine though. There was a young lone bull in Hay Meadow who was a bit inquisitive / randy / territorial / frightened, and some sheep in the next fields, complete with a new barn being used as a lambing shed. If, like me, you come in lambing season it might be a good idea to leave any dogs behind. King Arthur's Hall - 1.4.2003
It's strange how you form expectations isn't it? I guess it was because of its unusual form that I expected something massive, and something tucked away unobtrusively that suddenly comes into view and blows you away. In reality it can be seen from quite some distance and is pretty small and compact. That's not to say it's not impressive (because it is) it's just that my pre-conceptions could never be lived up to. It also seemed far too easy to get to, probably because I had just come from two hours of hard graft, up and down the Roughtor area. I reached it via the dead end track to Candra and Casehill, and then a 1 kilometre walk over the moor. There isn't really anywhere to definitely park outside Casehill, however you can discreetly pull off the road and as long as you are careful not to block the 4x4 track that seems to still be used to get into the moor I guess no-one is going to mind. King Arthur's Downs Stone Circles - 1.4.2003
Just 500 metres on from King Arthur's Hall and clearly visible, so unless the visibility is particularly low you shouldn't need to map read. I agreed with Craig Weatherhill's drawing in "Cornovia: Ancient Sites of Cornwall & Scilly" (Cornwall Books - 1985, revised 1997 & 2000) but I also found a few extra stones not reported. I'll try to do a drawing soon. Helsbury Castle - 1.4.2003
Slightly strange this. After coming off of the B3266 the lane is so narrow and the field walls relatively high that you don't really have any idea that this hill fort exists. It doesn't rise up and slap you in the face. There is no official access to the site and the only two entrances I could find are a farm gate into the lower part of the field, at the bend in the road at SX085797, and a passing place that has strange stone steps that lead up over the field wall at SX083796 and take you just into the edge of the field to the West of the Castle. The later was particularly strange, almost as if it was there to help people get into the fields. There are four steps on the road side, and two on the field side, plus a sort of wooden stile and a warning notice that there is a low electric fence there - all very user friendly! At first I wasn't at all impressed - the ditch and ramparts are small and you don't get any feeling at all of being high up. But that sense was partly psychological because the fort isn't some huge thing you see in the distance like Castle-an-Dinas. When I actually looked around I realise that I was quite high up compared to surrounding land and the views are fantastic.
Craig Weatherhill, in "Cornovia: Ancient Sites of Cornwall & Scilly" (Cornwall Books - 1985, revised 1997 & 2000) says "A fine oval Iron Age fort with diameters of 170m and 160m, although some damage has been inflicted by agriculture and quarrying. It has a single rampart and ditch with a mutilated sub-rectangular annexe on the east side. The fort and annexe entrance faces east and is approached by a sunken track which may be of the same date. The main rampart of the fort reaches a height of 4.0m; its ditch survives on the south-west side. A square enclosure in the centre of the fort contains the foundations of St.Syth's Chapel. Numerous chunks of masonry, presumably from the chapel, lie scattered around." Rocky Valley Rock Carvings - 2.4.2003
In the tourist season it will be pretty difficult to park in the area; there isn't anything on the road, only one space at the Rocky valley Gallery (and they presumably want that for customers) and the Trevillett Mill Restaurant (just down the hill by the start of the footpath down to the carvings, and with a huge black pig in the garden) say that the car park is for customers only. Anyway, enough of the boring bit, the carvings are just a few hundred metres down the footpath, and just as Phil said lots of cloth on the trees. Plus a hamburger box and come curry sauce - yum! Most worrying for me was 1) coins shoved into gaps in the rock, many rusted away. The worst are two that are very, very close to the right hand carving - one rusting coin is within 2 cms - surely that could case serious damage!? Elsewhere, someone had even gone to the trouble of bending a coin in two to make it fit into a circular hole. 2) Graffiti on the surrounding rock. This place is obviously becoming a well-known place to hang out and fuck about.
I feel uncomfortable about the authenticity of this place. Maybe I'm just being pessimistic but I wonder how they could have survived being 2 metres away from a mill if they were there before the mill was built. Plus the apparent evidence of them being made with an edged metal tool, that they seem so well preserved for a Bronze Age carving, and that no other similar carvings are found in Cornwall (although Craig Weatherhill, in "Cornovia: Ancient Sites of Cornwall & Scilly" [Cornwall Books - 1985, revised 1997 & 2000] says they are similar to the Galician style designs attributed to the Bronze Age, and are fairly widespread throughout Britain and the Atlantic seaboard of Europe). Cheryl Straffon's 'Earth Mysteries Guide to Bodmin Moor and North Cornwall, including Tintagel' (Meyn Mamvro Publications - 1993, amended 1995 & 2000) believes they are more likely to date from Celtic/Arthurian times but gives no explanation why she believes that nor a more defined date! Tintagel Cliff Castle - 2.4.2003
Easily reached as it's a major tourist centre, but to go on the castle you'll have to pay a few quid to English Heritage. It is a very impressive defensive structure and is very visible all along the coast. Although there is no actual evidence of it being an Iron Age cliff castle it is assumed that it was, given its location so close to other cliff castles and its natural defensive properties. Craig Weatherhill, in "Cornovia: Ancient Sites of Cornwall & Scilly" (Cornwall Books - 1985, revised 1997 & 2000) says...."The land bridge connecting the 'island' to the mainland would almost certainly have carried the defences of an Iron Age cliff castle before its erosion and eventual collapse c1300 AD"
PS - Vortigen's birthday (see below) is just one day away from mine.....I'm younger though....form an orderly queue... Ugworthy Barrow(s) - 2.4.2003
This is actually in Devon but still feels like Cornwall. If coming from Cornwall, on the A3072, the road to Ugworthy Barrow and Ugworthy Moor is the third left after the Red Post junction. I can't remember what it was signposted as but it did also have a brown tourist signpost (something to do with a Ceramics place a short distance up the road). Ugworthy Barrow is almost 3 kilometres up this road, in it's own small enclosure on the bend on the road, just after a staggered crossroads.
Being in it's own small enclosure has advantages and disadvantages. It should help it survive, but it also meant that I couldn't find a way in and could only peer at it through the hedge and take a photo from a wall on the south side (the area being used as a bit of rubbish dump). Woolley Long Barrow - 2.4.2003
Very visible from the A39 (especially from the South) 3½ miles North of Kilkhampton. It is situated by a staggered crossroads. If heading North you will see a turning to the West for Woolley and a turning to the East for Bradworthy. The long barrow is in a field right next to the Bradworthy turn-off, where there is space to park. I didn't go in because it was lambing time and there was what looked like a tiny lambing shed on the East edge of the barrow. One of my photos (yet to be posted) shows some of the damage on the West side being done by tractors driving between the barrow and the field wall.
Craig Weatherhill, in "Cornovia: Ancient Sites of Cornwall & Scilly" (Cornwall Books - 1985, revised 1997 & 2000) says that "Neolithic long barrows are rare in Cornwall; this is the finest of the few. It is 62m long, 21m wide and 2.5m high, with mutilations on the north-west and south-west sides. No evidence has yet been found of the internal structures, but one may well exist. A small excavation did locate a single side trench on the Northern side of the barrow. This was 72m long and 1.6m deep". Leskernick complex - Cairn - 3.4.2003
A large simple cairn lies in the central flatish area close to the western end of the stone row at approx SX187798. Leskernick complex - Cairns on The Beacon - 3.4.2003
The OS map shows two cairns at the top of The Beacon, just off the Downs (in a very rough farm field). I didn't think they were particularly impressive and didn't photograph them. Peter Herring and Peter Rose, in 'Bodmin Moor's Archaeological Heritage' (Cornwall County Council - 2001) describe the Western one as a 'rimmed platform cairn' and the Eastern one as a 'rimmed platform cairn with kerb'. Leskernick complex - Long Mound / possible long cairn on The Beacon - 3.4.2003
I didn't have all my details with me at the time so didn't try to find this but on the lower slopes of The Beacon a possible long cairn has been discovered at SX19037955. I first saw it reported in the Cornwall Archaeological Unit's Annual Review for 1995-6, which says it was first 'recognised' by Peter Herring and Tony Blackman on a field trip in April 1995. I've posted the full text on the The Leskernick 'Quoit' site. Later, more research was undertaken re this alignment by a team from University College, London but I don't know the results of this.
Peter Herring and Peter Rose, in 'Bodmin Moor's Archaeological Heritage' (Cornwall County Council - 2001) say that there are three known long cairns on Bodmin Moor (Bearah, Louden and Catshole) and three possibles (The Beacon, Kilmar, and Shallow Water Common). Typically they are slight elongated mounds 17 to 30 metres long, sometimes with traces of internal structuring, although the original nature of this is obscure. They would be of the 4th millennium BC and therefore some of the oldest structures on the Moor. Leskernick area - Possible Kerbed Cairn on The Beacon - 3.4.2003
Whilst walking down from The Beacon, back to Westmoorgate along the field wall, I came across what looks like the remains of a kerbed cairn between the summit and a small craggy outcrop. It has a classic round shape with hollowed top, plus 3 recumbent stones around the edge near the field wall (two stones are large and one medium sized) Greywethers Stone Circles - 29.3.2003
Aubrey Burl can be a miserable sod sometimes. To describe the walk from Fernworthy Stone Circle to the Greywethers as 'through the forest and across the shabby moor' and as 'tedious but rewarding' hardly does it justice. I was honoured by a beautiful day, and a tinder dry moor, but I think it would be a great walk even in worse weather. You could probably just about do it without a map and compass, but it's a risk I would not encourage anyone to take. It's not worth the risk to get stuck out there for the sake of a £7 map (or printed off OS website for squat) and a compass (starting from £4 in Index). From Fernworthy Stone Circle join the track again and walk straight on (as if you hadn't stopped at the stone circle). Keep on going straight ahead, even though it becomes a much smaller track than some of the bigger left and right tracks. You will be going uphill for about 10 minutes. Trust me. As you come towards the brow of the hill there is a large clearing on your right and soon you plunge down hill, through thick sexy forest, punctured on a sunny day by a huge hole of light awaiting in front of you. As you get to the end of the forest the moor suddenly opens up in front of you.
The official footpath on the map (to the Greywethers) is not really clear on the ground but don't worry too much - within reason, and especially on a clear day, all roads south lead to Rome. You can walk along the top of the field (i.e. close to the forest) and you'll pass through a clear hole in the first field wall, or you can decide to head for a very visible (at least on a clear day) old set of gate posts further down the field. Once past this wall, a wooden gate is visible in the far distance in the second wall. The Greywethers are literally behind this wall. One advantage of the higher route (or disadvantage if you want a surprise) is that you can see the stones from quite a distance. Judging from the state of the small gullies down these two fields and the presence of marsh grasses I can imagine that when it's wet, it's a much harder walk! On this nice day it was a very brisk 30 minute walk for me.
Because I arrived on the lower route, the first time I could see the stones was as I approached this gate. Wow. And then all of them unfolded as I walked up to them, saying to me "look, we are a double circle, and yes we are almost complete - that bloody showed you what a major ancient site could have looked like didn't it". After seeing so many 'difficult' circles: tiny things, broken up, battered, ploughed over, stolen and pillaged; this is a shock. A truly stunning and a spectacular setting.
All the way there and back I didn't meet one other person. However at the Greywethers themselves one group of young kids (probably doing the Duke of Edinburgh Award or something) suddenly yomped down over the hill, soon to be joined by another group, and another. Later a fourth group were making there way towards the circle just after I'd left. Fernworthy Stone Circle - 29.3.2003
Fernworthy Reservoir is a slightly difficult place to get to; whichever way you take it's pretty much a jumble of country lanes upon country lanes. My starting point was the 'junction' on the A382 opposite the road to the Spinster's Rock - it's as good a place as any to start. Several kilometres of country lanes further on, and just when I was getting a little tired of map reading, signs started to appear to guide my way. Depending on what you wish to do there are several places to park in the forest although there is only one large main car park, near the entrance. I drove as far as the road would go, and parked at a lay-by (circa SX659839). A sign clearly shows the way up the track to the circle and further onto Dartmoor, saying 'Footpath and bridleway to the moor'.
Walk up hill, straight ahead for approx 500 metres and suddenly the forest on your right will clear, and the stone circle is just there. When the opening suddenly appeared, after constant forest, an amazing feeling of freedom came across me; a sort of liberation from the oppressive trees - so much more light suddenly floods your vision.
The circle is really nice and atmospheric, and quiet! I wandered all this area for ages, and later walked up to the Grey Weathers without seeing or hearing one other person. The circle had obviously be 'used' recently - an ugly patch of burnt ground scared the middle, and rotting daffodils had been placed on and by two stones.
Because this small area is so full of sites (including two stone rows and two cairns and cairn circles) I'm adding the others as separate sites within this one. However it has to be pointed out that it's pretty hard to really tell much at this site because who knows what was cleared or moved when the trees were planted, or when they were cleared!?  |
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Adventures In Cornwall & Devon - Part 3 Dec 2002
Friday the 27th was my last full day in Cornwall so I spent it in the Land's End peninsula. First stop was the captivating Chysauster Settlement. Chysauster is excellent and thankfully not even the amazing ineptitude of English Heritage can ruin the spirit of this fascinating settlement. The fogou has been filled in with earth and has a nasty set of railings over its entrance, a garish wooden shed and picnic table dominate the South East edge of the site, and the info board totally denies its Pre-Roman reality.
I failed to reach Mulfra Quoit and afterwards I got hideously lost amongst the roads. I really felt like I was losing my mind, going up and down the same roads. Later on I found out that Chris Collyer had had a similar experience a few years before. Is someone trying to tell us something?
After some torrential rain over night this rest of the day really was a sodden trek for me. The track from the old Carn Galver Mine towards the Nine Stones of Boskednan had become a fast running stream. But it was worth it though. The Nine Stones / Maidens, and the surrounding antiquities, are lovely, but hiding in gorse and swamps. The views all around are pretty stunning. Despite it getting late I tackled the mud baths to see Men-an-tol. It's just one of those 'must see' sites that you've seen a million times in books and on postcards. On my way back I visited the Men Scryfa, a curious inscribed stone.
Under a crimson setting sun Lanyon Quoit was my final destination. After Trethevy Quoit this looks positively tiny, like it's from the model village at Polperro, or Legoland in Windsor. Strange.
On Saturday (28th) I made my way home, via Dartmoor. The Merrivale complex has a lot to explore. Plan to spend some serious time here. The stone rows, the stone circle, a standing stone, barrows, cairns, lots of rocks, and even a less old boundary stone designed to confuse a little. Apart from all the more well know stuff in most of the books I thought it was also of interest to wonder about the lesser known scatterings of ancient remnants like the barrow about half way along the South row, the barely perceivable stone row leading from the South row towards an outlier, and the stones around the standing stone to the South of the stone circle.
I then found it quite a challenge to find and map two stone rows that were on the map but of which I knew very little about. I don't know if they have names (I don't have Jeremy Butler's monumental 5 volume 'Dartmoor Atlas of Antiquities') so I've temporarily named them Sharpitor Stone Rows and Horseyeatt Stone Row . The first is pretty easy to find, but difficult to 'see', whereas the latter is harder to find but easier to 'see'. Sharpitor came with two arm waving enthusiasts and a nice cairn and cist .
Finally I did something different, visiting the White Lady waterfall at Lyford Gorge (where I passed an arm waving couple with almost the same battered old car as me – I felt really at home in Cornwall, where E-reg's are all the rage), the nearby Lydford Castle and Saxon town, and the Winkleigh Cider Company('Sam's Dry' from the barrel is amazing).
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My real name is Martin, but there is already a Martin vigorously posting on this fantastic web site so I decided to use 'Pure Joy'; which was the title of the Teardrop Explodes and Julian Cope fanzine that I set up in 1988 and ran until 1991/2. Strangely my interest in ancient sites pre-dates the knowledge that Julian was also into them. However Julian's book has certainly led me to visit more, and plan holidays and pit-stops around places to visit! Studying History (and International Relations) at Uni and coming from the West Country led to a healthy fascination with ancient sites and the countryside.
I was born in 1970 in Colerne, a historic village between Bath and Chippenham (mentioned in the Domesday Book) and have spent time in Bath, Reading, Manchester, West Africa, and Ethiopia. I'm currently living near London, but itching to live in the countryside, preferably Cornwall, or Africa. Reality check! little money and inertia creep.
Most of my working life has been in the voluntary sector, usually by supporting voluntary and community groups with advice and information. I enjoy doing quite a bit of voluntary work with our Credit Union, and as an elected Council member of the National Trust.
I'm no photography expert but I like to take photos (nearly always black and white) of places I visit. Some of the earlier ones looked good but it was only with a £25 point and shoot camera that was amazing unreliable. I've now got an old Pentax SLR, but at the moment I refuse to use filters and special effects. You get what you see.
Up side of ancient site = the sense of history, the countryside, the walk, the sense of adventure, the tranquillity, and the weird things that sometimes happen.
Downside = the loneliness, territorial cows, and the cravings to get back to the countryside
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