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Aberdeenshire at last!


Although my Megalithic visits pre-dated the publication of The Modern Antiquarian by eight years, I never quite realised just how much was there was in Aberdeenshire, until I read TMA. . or indeed, just how different the Aberdeenshire monuments are from anything else in the UK.
And that's what makes TMA such a great book.
Cope's enthusiasm for these sites in the TMA TV show had me whipped up into megalith styled frenzy. I too wanted to visit all those circles and see the sacred hill of Dunnideer.
So, I set a few days aside in June 2005. Me & my red van again, off in search of old stones. Got my Burl Books, the TMA, maps, money. . yea. . I'm off!!
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I drove up in a day, from Wolverhampton. And it took the day, but I did stop over to see Long Meg. Only ten minutes off the M6 and you're in heaven! The weather was glorious, and I found Little Meg and her spirals for the first time too, a lovely, almost secret site.
Got to Findon, by the coast, just three miles below Aberdeenshire about 11pm. I stopped here for the next two nights and found it an excellent base for fieldwork. As I sat supping Jack Daniels in my Findon digs I looked once again at the OS maps I had pored over since early last year. There were a few circles right by Findon.
I'm stopping right by a place called Stonehaven too . . Yea, bring it on!
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Day One.
I was at Craighead Stone Circle before 9am. But it certainly wasn't a classic RSC like I'd been dreaming about. In fact, looking at the sorry state of the four stones left standing, and the metal rings attached to them, one wonders what they were used for, and even if their prehistoric rating is earned. But it's easy to get to, and encased within a dry stone wall, in view of JCBs at the adjoining industrial estate, it's an odd site.
Next up - Cairnwell. Behind a secluded house. I asked the house owner if I could take a look, and he was only too pleased to let me. He told me his wife found the circle in the seventies, and it was officially verified by the monument bods. It's one of the last stone circles to be given official status.
It's ruined, but you can still see the recumbent, (facing SSW) and a couple of standing stones.
On my way back, the house owner showed me plans of which stones the surveyor thought were in the circle. I was chuffed to see my initial thoughts were mirrored on the blueprint. A good visit that left me enthused, but I knew Aberdeenshire was yet to show me its true Megalithic goodies.
I decided to go for broke and visit East(er) Aquhorthies, that legendary site that must surely be the most famous of the Scottish RSCs.
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It didn't disappoint, and the sun shone and there was the sea, (you can see it from this circle. No-one ever seems to mention these things!). What a fantastic site. And there's the recumbent, with the flankers, like Devil's horns. Majestic. Yea, welcome to Aberdeenshire! Now we're cooking with gas!
A worker for the coucil was painting the fence at East Aqourthies. He was having his tea break, he'd bought a flask. He told me how the smallest stone, facing the recumbent, is always warmer than the rest of the stones.
As I left him, supping his tea, with his face in the sun, alone at East Aquhorthies. I thought, has he the best job in the world today?
--
Off to Loanhead Of Daviot. Another showcase circle, and like Easter, it's signposted. These are the two the tourist visit.
But how hip a tourist to visit these great wonders?
And there. . in the distance, is Dunnideer. And I'm in the picture on page two of TMA. The amount of times I've looked at that picture. .
Just to the right of that picture, is a field in which Newcraig stands. And please go to it, don't just look from the road, because behind the recumbent, over the fence, is a wooded area where stones still stand. Eerie, as wooded standing stones often seem to me. I felt almost hesitant to approach these stones. . a feeling I would encounter again later that week, at another site.
Aberdeenshire was shaping up nicely!
--
Old Rayne is ruined. All stones are fallen around, the Recumbent toppled, yet it was a great place for me that day. I lay on the recumbent, looking at my faithful red van, and Dunnideer in the background. I'd needed to put suntan lotion on, it was so hot. I wrote my notes, counted stones, watched a small plane fly over and wondered what used to go on at Old Rayne. A site often deemed as not worth visiting because of its ruined state.
Not worth visiting? I'd have told you different on this sunsplashed Scottish Monday morning, a Monday when I'd normally be fitting fireplaces in Wolverhampton. Because sometimes sites are not list ticking, measuring exercises. Sometimes you just feel like it's where you should be, and things fall into place very nicely indeed.
--
It's hot, I need a mapcheck. I need protein, I need beer.
Insch is the nearest village to Dunnideer. There's a pub. It's amazing! straight out a 70's sitcom. Wooden panels, ABBA on the jukebox, strange looks from the locals. . love it!
I have a pint or two of bitter, Fats Domino comes on the jukebox and once again I'm in heaven.
--
I'm at Stonehead. It's an RSC without the circle, but it's right by the road and it's dominated by Dunnideer.
And I'm looking at Dunnideer, I'm gonna climb up there soon. I've seen some wonders, but still the greatest treats of Megalithic Aberdeenshire were yet to greet me.
Hatton Of Ardoyne takes some finding. You have to park at a private house and walk. I asked permission and the lady was most helpful. The site is slightly ruined, one flanker is down, but in an amazing position. It was blazing hot here, and I could see for miles.
Wherever possible, I paced out the diameter of the circles, and every one was between 18 & 23 paces. And at every one, the recumbent faced the same (general) direction. There's a design to these places that is quite amazing.
I found Wantonwells RSC, and was surprised to see it almost completely overgrown! Then Inchfield, which is a treck across a field to see a ruined site.

Wantonwells — Images

01.07.05ce
<b>Wantonwells</b>Posted by suave harv

I knocked at the farm by Sunhoney and asked to see the circle. They couldn't have been more helpful. The circle is behind the farm, in a small patch of trees, and wow! it was fantastic. I sat there for a while. The sun was streaming through the trees and I could hear the kids from the farm playing. Sunhoney was my favourite circle of day one.

Midmar Kirk is not far from Sunhoney. It's a well known circle because it's behind a church. Very odd, but well worth a visit.
I stopped at Cullerie on the way back. This is very near the road, and an avenue of trees act as a pathway to the circle - which isn't a standard RSC.
--

Sunhoney — Images

20.08.05ce
<b>Sunhoney</b>Posted by suave harv

Day Two
I had seen Tyrebagger on the hill during my first day, but decided to make the treck up the hill on day two. I had seen thirteen circles on my first day, now I could afford to take it easier, and enjoy just being in Aberdeenshire.
Tyrebagger is something else! High on a hill, overlooking Aberdeen's airport. Park at the bungalows and walk up the lane. It's worth it. I'm not too much up with the new ageisms, but if ever I were to describe a site powerful, this would be it. The flankers are enormous!
The recumbent is toppled, but wow! I liked Tyrebagger. They weren't kidding when they built this baby!

Tyrebagger — Images

20.08.05ce
<b>Tyrebagger</b>Posted by suave harv

Yesterday I had a 'stovie', which is mashed up potatoes, veg a corned beef, in a cup. Salty and warm, and just the job when you're peckish. Today I went traditional, Sausage sandwich from a roadside cafe. I eat it in Tyrebagger woods, where there might be red squirrels.
I took a trip round Dunnideer, and visited the Churchyard of Kirkton On Culsarmond, where there once was a circle. The Church looks to be a private dwelling now.
I had nowhere to sleep that night, so RSCs had to wait whilst I found digs. I headed north to Macduff, which is an fishing village, but it had a pub with B&B overlooking the harbour, so that's me sorted.
Spent the rest of day in pub. Cheers!
Haggis and chips later, and I fall into a blissful sleep, waking only occasionally by the sound of pissed up fishermen fighting.
Day Three.
My notes call this site Castle Fraser, but everyone knows it as Balkagor. And it's in a field completely overgrown.
I walked up Dunnideer. It's a hard walk, (it's a very steep hill!) but it was worth it. Imagine how many RSCs you could see from here if you had a powerful enough telescope! I could see Sunhoney through my binoculars, and the spot where Dunnydeer Stone Circle is, but that's all.
There's a lot made of Dunnideer's importance to the ancients. It seems to stem from the fact that the hill is easily recognisable from so many RSCs. Well, it is, but is that because it's so recognisable anyway? With its Glastonbury Tor type tower on top?
Yea, you can see it all around, but you can see so many other hills too. But the one you recognise - is Dinnideer. Because, well, it's just so recognisable.
Anyway, I went up it and loved it.
I visited Cothimere Wood next, and found this circle to be very intimidating, (yea, it looks silly writing it down, but you go, on your own, you'll see!). What a fantastic site! Massive Tyrebagger type flankers. And I think it's the woodland around it that gives it that eerie feel. I didn't know it was Cothymere wood circle until I saw it, it's not called that on the OS map.
Old Keig is visable from the road. I walked to it, it's ruined but worthwhile. Again, it's set in rolling hills.
Had a pint outside a Hotel in Alford (blazing sun, I was lucky), before an unsuccessful attempt to find North Strone RSC. I walked miles, got ripped to shreds in gorse, but did at least get to see a beautiful Bambi type young deer darting through the woods.
THhere's a ruined circle at Druidsfield, on the OS map. I found only two standing stones. The lady farmer told me they are 'entrance stones' or 'pointers' for a nearby circle (Keig?).
I found Rhynie stone circle (remains of). Two stones in a field. I was running out of steam I thought, so I drove to Tomenaverie. A site worth visiting, and around it, some of the nisest scenery I got to see in Aberdeenshire.
--
I had more Haggis in Macduf, this time at a restaurant, and was once again serenaded by the night-time sounds of drunk thugs and their wailing girlfriends.
Day Four
Had Macduf even one glimmer of charm, I might have stayed another night, but as I stepped over the puke and beer cans to get in my van, I thought I'd head home after visiting the ArchaeolinkCenter. Which was very good, it had mock up Neolithic houses, and even its own (mock-up) RSC!
http://www.archaeolink.co.uk/
I had another pint in Insch, said goodbye to Stonehead and Dunnideer, and started the six hour drive back to the Black Country.
Favourites - Tyrebagger and Sunhoney.
Failures - The two at Aquhorthies (seen from road only) and North Strone.
Best food - Haggis and Chips in Macduff
Cheers!

Weblog

Piskey Led & Pastie Fed


December 2004 – quickly organised weekend megalithic break in Cornwall - just me and the van.
I left Wolverhampton 4ish, Thursday afternoon, and was supping in a bar called 'Harvey's' in Launceston by 8.30, ("never pass a bar with your name on it!").
Next day . .
After a hearty English, a short pleasant drive to Bodmin Moor and the Hurlers. A beautiful day, blue sky, vast, and from the highest circle in the Hurler's complex, my first view of the sea! (this trip I mean, not ever. . )

The Hurlers — Images

06.12.04ce
<b>The Hurlers</b>Posted by suave harv

I walked towards the Cheeswring. I had been told the Craddock Moor circle wasn't much of a site, but having found it, I loved it! There are quite a few worked stones, all fallen, in a rough circle. If it's a nice day, this is well worth the walk.
A nice start to my break. I got back to the van feeling great.
Visited the Trippet Stones and Stannon next. Two easy circles both in sight of the road. Trouble with December down sounth, it starts to get dark at half past three. Quite diffrent to July up on Orkney, when the sun set around 11.30 pm!
Found a hotel in Penzance, chilled out.
Day Two.

Lanyon Quoit — Images

22.01.05ce
<b>Lanyon Quoit</b>Posted by suave harv

Lanyon Quoit, the Men An Tol, Boswen's Menhir re-visited, and the long trek up to Nine Stones of Boskednan for the first time. From a certain point on the hill, you can see the sea in four different directions. You know you're at Land's End here!
The circle is wonderful, though bleak today. The walk was a bit further than I'd have liked, being a wuss and all . .
Boulegh Fougu next. Krept in the creep, but didn't feel eerie in any way. But you certainly get the feeling you are in deepest, deepest Cornwall here.
Tregeseal Dancing Stones & Carn Kenidjack next. In the TMA it says 'needs an OS map and an attitude!'. I think this may have gotten mixed up with Boskendan, as I found it easily, just off a few muddy farm tracks.
It rained, it sunned and I thought it was a treat.
Merry Maidens, and Boscawen UN. . during which the sun set. Lovely!
Beer, beer, fish & chips, beer and whiskey in Penzance.

The Merry Maidens — Images

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<b>The Merry Maidens</b>Posted by suave harv

Next morning, a return to the Merry Maidens, and a trip to Land's End proper. (I even took in Carn Euny on the way back ).
I later wrote in my weblog, all wistful of my year . .
'I loved my Cornish break. I've been to so many fantastic places this year. As I stood at Land's End, I thought of my year. I've drunk wine with Julie by the Mersey at midnight, and we've crossed the sea to the Outer Hebrides. We've watched a Druid ceremony celebrate the harvest one balmy summer's night in Wiltshire, and eaten cheese and drunk wine almost everywhere we've been.
I've had a beer on the South Bank, London, looking at Big Ben. I've eat greasy chips under the Tower at Blackpool. and eaten a burger outside Elvis' house in Tennessee.
I've seen Chicago, been snowed on in Pittsburg and flown over Greenland and looked down on the Icebergs. I've seen real Viking graffiti in Orkney, drunk Guiness in many a pub in Cork.
I've watched the sun-set over. . . the Mississippi River - the hills and valleys of of Wales - the ancient stones of Ireland and over the Northernmost Stone circle in the world. And Sunday I stood at Land's End, watching the angry sea crashing against the rocks and thought of all this. A splendid year!'

Weblog

A week last summer. .


The weblog submission guidelines state. .

"A good use of (the weblog) would be to document a megalithic holiday or day trip, showing to other users what is achievable within a certain time period"

Well, I'll do just that. Because I could wax lyrical for pages and pages about the wonders of Lewis & Orkney, but others have done it better than I could, so I'll give you an idea of what is achievable, and what I did. And what it cost. .

Sunday 11th July

Stopped in Liverpool. A 'travel tavern' type thing by the Mersey'. £30 for the room.

Monday 12th

Left Liverpool, travelled to Penrith. Saw Castrigg & Long Meg, stayed at Penrith Travel Tavern ("Gimme the keys bitch!").

Tuesday 13th

Drove from Penrith, to Ullapool. Got there fourish. Saw Loch Ness, Ben Nevis etc on the way. A Fantastic drive! Stayed at the Ferryboat Inn. Had squid & chips from a take-away restaurant by the ferry that recently won the 'Best Take-away in the British Isles' award at the food show. Honest! It was on radio 4!

Wednesday 14th

Caught the ferry from Ullapool to Lewis 9am. Got to Lewis a couple of hours later. Was at Callanish about 1-ish. Ferry cost about £150
for me, Summer Garland & van (it would cost the same as a car, it's a small van).

Stopped at the stones all day, saw the other 3 circles, met Margret Curtis. .

Callanish — Images

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<b>Callanish</b>Posted by suave harv

Ceann Hulavig — Images

31.10.04ce
<b>Ceann Hulavig</b>Posted by suave harv

Cnoc Fillibhear Bheag — Images

31.10.04ce
<b>Cnoc Fillibhear Bheag</b>Posted by suave harv

We slept in the van, on the visitor's center car park. The toilets are open all night, and the woman in the shop suggested we park on the car park over-night. She didn't find it odd or strange. . I think lots of people come to camp here. I was very impressed with the whole visitor's center set-up.

Thursday 15th

Catch 8am ferry to Ullapool, arrived 11am-ish, drove to Scrabster on North coast. . got the earlier than expected, about 4pm. Walked around Thurso. . bit of a dump.
Caught the 'Hamnavoe' Ferry, (the cleanest and poshest Ferry I've EVER been on) about 7pm. Again, about £150 for van & 2 passengers. Clear skies. . there's the Old Man Of Hoy! . . and round the corner. . Orkney. Beautiful, wonderful, Orkney.

Stopped at the 'Standing Stones' hotel, on the main Kirkwall to Stromness road. There are bus stops to take you to both towns right outside. The hotel is very clean and well run. Pricey, (I think it was about £60 a night, per room), but worth it. 1 mile from the Stones of Stenness, 2 mile from Brodgar. The woman who runs it can be a bit of a grouch though!

Friday 16th

Brodgar, Stenness, Skara Brae. . Picnic at night at the Stones Of Stenness. Whiskey, Cheese, Wine. .

The Standing Stones of Stenness — Images

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<b>The Standing Stones of Stenness</b>Posted by suave harv

Saturday 17th

Maes Howe, Kirkwall, Brodgar again. .

Dinner at 'Julia's' Bistro in Strommness. VERY good food. How on earth do they manage such a varied menu on this island? Went to Brodgar after to watch the sunset. We had Brodgar to ourselves.

Ring of Brodgar — Images

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<b>Ring of Brodgar</b>Posted by suave harv

Sunday 18th

Caught the Ferry back to Scrabster. Arrived 10.30ish, drove back to Wolverhampton. Got back about 9pm. Not advisable. . I should really have stopped halfway. This is the only bit of the holiday I got wrong.

So, in a week I saw Castlerigg, Long Meg, Callanish, Brodgar and Stenness. It cost £300 in Ferries and about the same in hotels & b&bs. I filled the van up with diesel 3 times, so £120 in diesel.

It was fantastic!

more photo's here
http://www.suaveharv.com/scot.htm

Weblog

suaveharv in Ireland III


After day one's rain, I was determined to see as many sites as possible today. At 9am I found myself at Kealkil Stone Circle.
It's not just a stone circle though, it's a circle with two great standing stones outside and a radial cairn also. It's high on a hillside and very, very dramatic. The rain was stopping and starting. . and photography was difficult, but the bleakness suited this serene monument.
The actual stone circle of Kealkil was very small, and it made me think that these circles weren't constructed for people be inside.
The views from Kealkil were incredible. Mountainous and vast, and little pools of sunshine sped across distant ridges.

Kealkil — Images

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<b>Kealkil</b>Posted by suave harv

Although stone circles were my priority on this trip, I couldn't resist hunting for Maughanasilly Stone Row, which was situated right up high, commanding fantastic views over Lough Atooreen lake. One stone was lying flat, but the others stood proud.
After leaving this site I found myself driving higher and higher, into the finest scenery I was to see whilst in Ireland.
I found myself high in the Shehy Mountains. During the two hours I was here I saw perhaps two other cars. There is no sound but for the wind and the rushing of the waterfalls scattered amongst the rocks. Surely this region is the 'Emerald Isle' personified?
There were many old buildings, roofless and covered in moss. It is little wonder that so many ancient sites have survived here.
Looking down into the Boolin Valley I could see little stone houses, perhaps miles apart, wisps of smoke coming from their chimneys. What sort of life can it be to live in such a desolate place? Does the sheer beauty of the surroundings make up for the lack of civilization?
Derrynafinchin Stone Circle is right by the road, but uncared for. A fence runs right through this overgrown circle, which is situated on the floor of the Boorlin Valley. The capstone actually moves, reminding one of just how incredible and unlikely it is that these monuments still remain intact after so many years. This site is impossible to photograph in its entirety, from my fieldnotes I see it is made of around 11 stones. Almost a complete circle . . What a shame it's overgrown!
By this time I was feeling pleased that I had found as many sites as I had, but still felt that Ireland had yet to show me the true beauty of its megalithic heritage.
I decided to head inland, and see the great stones of Knocknakilla.
Derrynacaheragh Stone Circle I sort of stumbled on . . Just like Lettergorman South, it had a recumbent stone, a tree, and a jumble of stones in the middle (field clearance again?). A bonus circle in a day that was feeling both victorious and annoying! I looked for Carrigagulla Stone Circle and all I found was a sheep-proof electric fence that made my hair even more curly!
Victory & defeat in equal measures. I was reminded of JC's remark "I've looked for more Cork circles than I've found". But there was at least Knocknakilla, a famous touristy circle that would be easy to find. I sped on . . (at 40mph!) . . In search of Knocknakilla.
I chanced upon Knockareen Stone Circle on the way to Knocknakilla.
This was lovely, a complete classic Irish five-stone circle with the recumbent pointing towards . . . Quartz outliers!! As if to underline my theory, that the quartz stones in Lettergorman, Ballyvacky etc were 'field clearance'. . Here was a complete circle with outliers intact.
I sat in between the two light coloured stones and felt pleased that my stone circle count was climbing higher and higher.
I drove on towards Knocknakilla.
At last! A signpost!
And even a rainbow!
Glounthane Stone Circle Is also known as Glantane. And it's quite a site! Two massive pillars (one fallen) each side of a ruined circle. Unlike any other circle I've ever seen.
This was one of the surprises of the expedition. I thought such tall (12ft?) standing stones were the indulgence of the UK mainland. Obviously not!
Glantane and Knocknakilla (next page) are two sites alike. Both were small circles with two pillars. But whereas Glantane's pillars were either side of the circle, Knocknakilla's were both on one side.
This site was wonderful. The cairn meant it usurped Glantane slightly in the megalithic stakes . . But it mattered not. The one remaining pillar looked precarious, and the stone circle itself was ruined (not by man, but by time). It was 6.30 in the evening. After a day of triumphs and some disappointments, Knocknakilla and its environs were an early evening treat!
The sun was setting and I felt I had accomplished much during my second full day in Ireland. But as I drove home, there was one more treat. . A small circle of three stones buried in the hedgerow at Carriganine. I photographed two, then rummaged through the foliage to find a third. I then realised that I was becoming an stone circle obsessive train-spotter and headed back to Bantry, where writing up my field notes required much Guinness!

Carriganine Stone Circle — Fieldnotes

23.11.04ce
Two stones, no more than 3 foot high nestle by a hedge. Dig a bit in the undergrowth and you'll find a third. It's right by the road, so if you want to 'up' your stone circle count. . it's easy to find.

Carriganine Stone Circle — Images

23.11.04ce
<b>Carriganine Stone Circle</b>Posted by suave harv

Once again, after sunset I sat on the harbour wall and looked out towards Bantry Bay. My Irish trip was going well, but I was determined to see Reanascreena, one of the least visited and well preserved of all Irish circles the next day.
Reanascreena Stone Circle had become more than the sum of its parts. It was the first circle I looked for whilst in Ireland, and that first night, when I slept (I use that word loosely) in the van, in a field I drove to a place by Reanascreena, in the Ross-carberry region of Cork.
So, after a hearty breakfast, I drove to Reanascreena.
I parked in a lane that seemed close to the circle. I walked through fields. . Over hedges. . I ripped my trousers, and got looked at by some evil looking animal (I think they may have been bovine!).
I got lost.
I found the van again, and it was hot and I was itchy and stung by nettles.
How could I give up? Looking for this circle was costing valuable time, which could be spent on other sites. Yet if I were to give up the search for Reanascreena, how would I feel when back at home. . Knowing I had been so close?
I eventually got back in the van and drove off . . . But as I headed off, I saw a solitary bungalow and an old dear sweeping her drive.
I asked her for the easiest way. .
It was still a walk, but she assured me it was worth it, and she also assured me that I wasn't stupid for wanting to see Reanascreena so bad, as many very clever students and travellers also visited this place.
Not feeling so silly, I parked the van at 'long field' and headed towards the site.
Reanascreena Stone Circle was the greatest treat of my Irish trip. The sun shone, and the stones were well beautiful. They were graded toward the recumbent, more so than any circle I'd seen. What went on here?

Reanascreena — Images

31.10.04ce
<b>Reanascreena</b>Posted by suave harv

Reanascreena — Fieldnotes

23.11.04ce
Get an OS map, and there's a field called 'long field' between two lanes going toward farm buildings. Pull off the lane that runs parallel with the Cashel River. Park in this field through the (hopefully open) gate at 405266. And walk up the field, it's a long field (duh!) and stretches towards the field in which the stones are. When you get to the top of 'long Field' keep walking. The stones appear on the left.
Well worth the trouble, and it's not that far a walk. . honest!

Why did I like Reanascreena so much? . . Was it because I had tried to find it twice without success?
Don't know. But feeling the sun on my face inside this elusive monument made my trip more than worthwhile. And if I return to Ireland, Reanascreena and Kealkil will be the two sites I re-visit.
Maulatanavally Stone Circle next . . Another circle lost on my first day and found on my last. A typical Irish circle. The recumbent, the quartz stone. .
Next, Drombeg Stone Circle.
This is the 'tourist circle' The one on the post-cards. This was my last Irish monument. The next day I drove back to the East coast.
I had seen many fine sites in Ireland.
I loved Ireland . . but my megalithic year was only beginning . . once home I had to make plans for the great trek to Cumbria, Lewis and Orkney.
Before I left Ireland picked up some small stones on the beach at Wexford, killing time before the ferry to Wales. They sit on my speaker at home in Wolverhampton. A little Irish stone circle of me own.

Weblog

suaveharv in Ireland pt II


5AM. Ross-Carberry region. Wet and windy.
Did I mention I was hungry?
I looked for four stone circles and found none. I began to wonder if an Irish stone circle was a myth!
Then at last, at six o clock, amidst a hazy rainy Irish morning, I found
Lettergorman (South) Stone Circle
I don't think I've ever been so relieved to see a site! It is a 'typical' Irish five stone ring, with a quartz stone (an outlier pushed against the circle?). It's small, uncared for, and like most circles I'll visit this week, it's in a field with no signpost or track way. There's just so many ancient monuments here, that they go almost unnoticed in this sparsely populated part of the world.
Next I found Ahagilla Stone Circle
It was ruined, and in the intense Irish rain, looked a very sorry site indeed. I walked around it but only a few stones were left standing. It is also sometimes called Bealand, I read later. Being early in the morning, a farmer started to march his cows into the field containing the stones. I sloshed back to the van, wondering if the rain would ever stop!
I easily found Templebryan Stone Circle It was right by the road! I find these 'urbanised' sites fascinating. I returned to take a picture a couple of days later, under bluer skies.
Templebryan is a large imposing circle. . Some of the stones are about 6ft high. Five stones make up this very solid looking circle, and there is a quartz stone in the middle. I am convinced these quartz stones are outliers pushed into the circle years ago to make way for farming. I liked Templebryan a lot. The house opposite had noisy dogs and kids. I wondered what they thought about living opposite a 6,000 year old temple called Bryan.
Ballyvacky Stone Circle next.
After asking two foreign farm workers, I found this circle quite easily, although it's almost unrecognisable from a distance due to the folage. Seven stones, and most of the stones are overgrown. I rooted through the trees to find another single quartz stone. Obviously an important part of these Irish circles.
In my field notes I singled out this one as my favourite of the day. It was certainly the last one of the day—I was sodden!
In the back of the van I got changed into clean dry trousers and socks and they felt glorious! It was dinner-time and I needed to find somewhere to sleep that night. I drove West. .
It rained all day. None stop. Luckily, I found myself in Bantry Bay, a lovely little harbour village with pubs and restaurants and a B&B right by the sea-front. Job's a good 'un!
I found an empty pub, drunk several pints of Guinness and watched the rain.
I eat in another pub opposite the B&B, and by late afternoon I was as tired as I'd ever been. I slept for a few hours, and woke refreshed. I started writing up my field notes in the pub, and tried to plan my adventures for the next day. I was excited!
After dark the rain actually stopped. I sat on the harbour wall and looked at the lights reflecting in the sea. The last time I heard the night-time sea was in Wales three days ago, inside Carreag Cotean Arthur. Now Bantry Bay Ireland would be my home for the next three days .
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Circles Obsessive
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some favourites -

Brodgar
Dol Tor
Reanascreena
Boscawen Un
Long Meg
Sunhoney
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From Wolverhamptonshire UK, (where there are no circles).

My TMA Content: