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Fan (Nantcwnlle) (Round Cairn)

Fan, as the prosaic name suggests, is an elongated 'peaky ridge' rising to the west of the hamlet of Nantcwnlle, a little over a mile and a half distant from the great, sacred hill of Trychrug.

Not to be outdone... it, too, is crowned by the remains of a formerly substantial Bronze Age cairn subsumed within a grassy mantle. Despite being "inadvertently levelled during pasture improvement" between 1996 and 1998, subsequent excavation in 2010-2011 discovered several cremation burials/cups/urns. So no doubts about said monument's prehistoric ancestry, then. [refer ARCHAEOLOGIA CAMBRENSIS Vol 162 - see misc link]

The Citizen Cairn - suitably intrigued - approached via a pleasing footpath attained by taking the minor road exiting Bwlch-Llan to the northwest. Boasting sweeping panoramic views, this was a fine way to spend a blustery afternoon. A 'Peaky Blinder', perhaps? Furthermore, if time is not pressing, why not continue on to the wondrous Trychrug beckoning upon the skyline?

Coflein reckons:

"A disturbed circular cairn, c.21m in diameter, 1.6m high, set upon a summit, has produced a pygmy cup and possibly a bronze spear-head (see Briggs 1994 (Cardigan County Hist. I), 193 No.183)." [RCAHMW AP965053/42-3 J.Wiles 02.10.03]

Esgair Nant-y-Moch (Cairn(s))

Lying to the east of the reasonably substantial cairn upon the (eastern) summit of Esgair Golan (SN72848261), this is a rather more modest monument, one of a possible trio surmounting this little ridge. Then again, perhaps the multiplicity hints at natural features?

Whatever the truth, this is well worth including in a circular walk from the roadside beneath - and featuring - the cairn overlooking the Nant Geifaes at SN73188331.

Coflein reckons:

"Remains of former cairn approx. 4m in diameter x 0.60m high. Consists of piled stone now grass and turf covered. Remains of cist visible formed by 3 slabs and 1 upright slab" [R.S. Jones, Cambrian Archaeological Projects, 2004].

Warren Wood (Round Barrow(s))

Historic England [List Entry Number: 1012222] states that this obscure site represents a 'saucer barrow'... so very rare.

I struggled to find this one - and, to be fair, I cannot 100% categorically claim I did - since the whole site was subsumed in industrial strength, impenetrable brambles. Still, I'm pretty sure... and no afternoon spent walking around in sunny woodland listening to birdsong can ever be wasted, right?

Historic England has this to say:

"The monument includes a saucer barrow which comprises a low central mound with an encircling ditch which is in turn surrounded by a low bank of earth. The central mound measures 18m in diameter and stands to 0.7m above the level of the surrounding ground at its summit. The ditch that defines the mound measures some 4m across and drops to only 0.3m below the ground level, having been largely infilled by erosion from the mound and the outer bank. It was earth from this ditch which was used to build both the central low mound and the surrounding bank. Beyond the ditch is the outer bank, 2m across and only 0.2m high. The overall diameter of the monument is therefore some 30m."

Tanybryn-Isaf (Trefeurig) (Round Cairn)

This, a companion cairn to Garn Wen engulfed in trees upon the nearby hilltop, is a nearly destroyed - but not quite - monument set in rich pasture beside Tanybryn-Isaf farm, located in the Pumlumon foothills to the east of Aberystwyth. The field nowadays is home to nowt but inquisitive bovines turbocharged on the luxurious grass. No, make that REALLY curious cows. Tell me about it...

So, OK, only the well-informed will appreciate what is still here, the monument apparently only discovered by the wondrous Mr Driver pootling about in his plane back in 2001. As a TMA-er, that'll now include you, then.

It's worth combining with a visit to nearby Garn Wen, if only for fine views of neighbouring hillfort Pen-y-Castell (SN689848) across the cwm.

Coflein reckons:

"A Bronze Age round barrow, surviving as a low mound c.11m diameter, with a central hole showing a past episode of digging. The barrow lies alongside and to the south of the earthworks of an old trackway, climbing the hillside from Clawdd Melyn... Discovered during RCAHMW winter aerial reconnaissance in 2001 and recorded on subsequent flights. [T. Driver, RCAHMW, 27th Jan 2011]"

Moel y Gadfa (Round Cairn)

Despite being featured upon current OS mapping I'm pretty confident that a visit to the obscure Bronze Age cairn located upon the south-eastern spur of Moel y Gadfa - the high moor ( at 1,669ft) overlooking the minor road linking the mountain pass Bwlch-y-Groes and Llyn Efyrnwy - will not grace many antiquarian-themed itineraries. Ha! Upon second thoughts, very confident...

To be fair, the terrain to be found here - to the east of the magnificent Arans - is probably an acquired taste and, as such, likely to appeal only to those with a penchant for avoiding the crowds and immersing themselves in the landscape - hopefully not TOO literally, one would hope. It is pretty hard going underfoot... but hey, nothing good comes without a little effort, right?

In the event I struggled to find the monument owing to fence lines on the ground not mirroring what was shown upon my map, this disorientating me more than a little as hill fog swept in to further confuse matters with reduced visibility... and driving rain. However, find it I did. Eventually.

Coflein notes:

"A much disturbed & spread round cairn, in the region of 7.5m in diameter & 1.0m high." [RCAHMW AP94-CS 0027 J.Wiles 26.07.04]

Esgair Gorlan (Round Cairn)

The elevated ridges of Esgair Gorlan and Esgair Nant-y-Moch stand to the (approx) south of the enigmatic Pumlumon outlier Disgwylfa Fawr (the 'Watching Place') and, as such, are well worth a wander in their own right when events/weather/downright exhaustion conspire against a more challenging outing. Although nothing is indicated upon current OS mapping, prehistoric upland cairns are to be found here. Well, this is Pumlumon, after all. What else did you expect?

I parked up beside the ford overlooked by the cairn namechecking the Nant Geifaes, following the stony byway heading southwest into the hinterland.

Coflein reckons the following:

"Located on a summit on the eastern side of Esgair Gorlan is a robbed round cairn. It is a turf-covered stony mound measuring 9.5m in diameter and 0.5m high but higher on the south-west where spoil from a central hollow has been piled up. The hollow measures 4m long (NW-SE) by 1.5m across and 0.4m deep. It was presumably the site of a cist, or at least thought to be, though its stony base may point to a cist cut into the old land surface." [D.K.Leighton, RCAHMW & R.S. Jones, Cambrian Archaeological Projects, 29 May 2015]

Note that there is - unbeknown to me at the time of my visit - another cairn surmounting the western summit of Esgair Gorlan at SN7241082620. Another time, perhaps?

Garn Wen (Trefeurig) (Round Cairn)

This, another of Wales' 'White Cairns', is almost completely subsumed within seemingly impenetrable forestry covering a minor hilltop to the west of Pumlumon. So much so that The Citizen Cairn admits to having a pretty hard time locating it, despite the monument apparently being some 50ft across. However, all's well that ends well, as they say. If not exactly 'all-white'.

Yeah, despite - or perhaps because of - the difficulty reaching the cairn, the intense woodland vibe, amplified many times over by whatever it is that these prehistoric sites do to the receptive human psyche, has me doing mental cartwheels in short order. Indeed, one supposes the proverbial 'knife' would make little impression upon the atmosphere to be found here. Bring a chainsaw. No, on second thoughts, don't! And to think we've a myriad myopic muppets jumping up and down on Salisbury Plain... presumably, Pumlumon doesn't feature upon Papa's Range Rover's sat nav?

Coflein doesn't have a lot to say:

"A much disturbed round cairn, 15m in diameter & 1.5m high, set upon the highest point of a ridge." [J.Wiles 23.07.04]

Buwch a'r Llo and Mynydd March (Standing Stones)

Interestingly, Coflein reckons the 'Mynydd March' stone may once have been known as Mynydd Tarw... so once upon a time, we may well have had 'Bull, Cow and Calf' stones:

"A shattered monolith is located just off the south edge of a road, set back from it about 3m in what is now a ditch between the road and an old field bank which forms part of a forestry boundary. The stone is in three (visible) pieces. The largest is 1m high, 0.7m wide and 0.5m thick. Two much smaller pieces have become detached from each of two sides of the stone.
The stone is portrayed on Lewis Morris's map of 1744 where it is named Maen Tarw. About 100m along the road to the east is Buwch a'r Llo standing stone pair (which is not shown on the 1744 map. However, the latter are shown on Gogerddan Estate map of 1788, annotated `Maen Tarw?. [David Leighton, RCAHMW, 7 February 2013]"

Bedd y Brenin (Round Cairn)

Revisited during an extended visit to Twll yr Ogof from the Fford Ddu roadside near Cyfarnedd-fawr, I had forgotten how substantial this - The King's Grave - actually is... some c62ft across. Suffice to say, it's well worth a primary visit in its own right.

Coflein notes:

"The mutilated ruins of a cairn stand upon a saddle between two mountains at the head of Cwm-llwyd. It is near circular, some 18-19.5m across and survives up to 1.2m high. It is crossed by a comparatively recent sheep shelter wall. The cairn was dug into in 1851, when a cist or slab chamber, 0.9m by 0.7m and 0.5m deep was uncovered. This contained fragments of human bone and had been covered by a 2.0m by 0.9m capstone. In 1851 'sheperd-huts' were observed around the base of the cairn. The cairn was already robbed. The shelter wall is built over the displaced capstone and so must post-date the excavation. [Source: Wynne foulkes in Archaeologia Cambrensis New Series III (1852), 96-9] - John Wiles, RCAHMW, 22 February 2008"

Crug Canol (Round Cairn)

This, the 'Middle Cairn/Barrow', appropriately enough stands between Crug Melyn and the unnamed 'Tumlumus' shown upon the 1:25k map... although quite why it is named... and its substantial western neighbour is not... I guess only local folklore may be able to explain?

Coflein notes:

"Bronze Age cairn or barrow, 17m" [c56ft] "in diameter, standing up to 2" high, has been 'opened'. [J.Wiles 20.02.02]"

Crug Melyn (Round Cairn)

Less than a mile to the west of the suspect charms of Llech Ciste (which I consequently forgo), what I envisaged as being a minor group of barrow/cairns... in very short order became a fine Bronze Age cemetery worth a considerable journey.

To be fair, owners of the 1:25k map will note that three of the linear alignment of monuments are named... so perhaps I shouldn't have been so surprised, but there you are. This, the 'Yellow Cairn' crowning 1,070ft Pen-crug-melyn at the eastern extremity, is pleasingly bathed in an orangey/yellow(ish) glow as the sun briefly reasserts its dominance following a couple of hours of intense downpour. So, needless to say, the locals know where they're at. As usual.

Speaking of which, I encounter the farmer in his Land Rover and he beams a smile as bright as that fiery nuclear globe while confirming I'm OK with my parking arrangements. No problem at all, so please don't take the piss and block his gates should you approach from the south.

Coflein doesn't say much (if 14m also means nothing to you, that's c46ft in proper terms):

"A disturbed cairn, 14m in diameter and 1.3m high.
[J.Wiles 20.02.02]"

Crugiau (Horeb) (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery)

This, marked as 'Tumulus' upon 1:25k OS mapping (presumably owing to the grassy mantle obscuring any expected cairn attributes), stands between Crug Canol and Crug Bach (SN49632863), the latter located near the entrance gate to Mynydd Bach Common and quite hard to distinguish amongst vegetation. There are apparently other monuments nearby I wasn't able to discern with any certainty.

Although lacking the profile of the two great eastern cairns, this is nevertheless a substantial monument worth lingering at for a while, measuring approx 65ft across and 3ft in height.

Coflein reckons:

"SN49632863, reported as mutilated, c.13m in diameter and 0.9m high, with the eatern of the two.. at SN49882864, being 20m in diameter and 0.9m high. [J.Wiles 19.02.02]"

Cnwch Mawr (Llanddewi Brefi) (Round Cairn)

This is an obscure, yet wondrous Bronze Age cairn - some 52ft across - located upon Cnwch Mawr, not far from Llanddewi Brefi in deepest Ceredigion. Unlike many other ancient sites in the locale, this is not annotated upon current OS mapping, meaning a perfect vibe was more-or-less guaranteed.

The monument is substantial and, although I made the usual 'pig's ear' of the approach, access is not too taxing from the southwest via Waun Maenllwyd... suffice to say (in retrospect), ensure you don't take the direct route across the felled forestry wasteland upon reaching the fence line, but rather circle around to the left. Much easier!!

OK, sure, the weather closed in later on giving me a veritable kicking - and then some. However, hill fog was mercifully absent, ensuring sublime views into Cwm Brefi rewarded a subsequent walkabout. Note that the standing stone 'Carreg Samson' is nearby should that also interest... plus, of course, the great cairns upon Crug, Garn, Carn Fawr, Pen y Corn, Craig Twrch etc, etc, etc. Wondrous area, this.

Coflein reckons:

"This is a large Bronze Age summit cairn, which has been shown on Ordnance Survey maps since the Original Surveyors drawing were made in the early 19th century. It has suffered some disturbance over the centuries, but still survives as a substantial stone cairn, 16 metres in diameter and up to 1.25 metres high. A small shelter has been built on its eastern side" [R.P.Sambrook, Trysor, 26 March 2013]

Caer Maurice (Hillfort)

Although located close to the farm of Caer Cadwgan, this impressive hillfort, overlooking Cwm Ffrwd Cynon near Lampeter, is traditionally known as Caer Maurice (as confirmed by such an annotation upon the original OS maps of 1834).

For once - yeah, it happens occasionally - The Citizen Cairn is pleased to relate that, although not directly accessed by a public right of way, a concessionary path has been negotiated for visitors. This is to be applauded as an example to other landowners harbouring designs towards embracing community responsibility since this is a hillfort to cherish. Substantial remains and sublime views: what's not to like?

Lledwigan Cairn, Cefn Cyfarwydd, Y Carneddau (Round Cairn)

Now, you know how it is? How some things can linger upon the 'to do at some point' list for, well... ages, right? Anyway, for some reason this site, hidden away upon the north-eastern flanks of Y Carneddau's Creigiau Gleision, finally bubbled away to the top of The Citizen Cairn's version. Good thing, too, since the monument, some 40ft in diameter, is pretty substantial.... the views sublime.

I approached via the unfeasibly steep Llyn Cowlyd access road from Trefriw crossing Cefn Cyfarwydd (we're talking Hardknott/Wrynose Pass-grade inclines here) traversed numerous times before in passing. A lesson that one must always look to indulge the supporting cast of any story.

The glorious rainbows were the icing on the proverbial cake and - speaking of ice - well worth the fast moving hail showers disgorging their frozen cargo 'at pace', as muppet project managers like to say nowadays.

CADW's scheduling notes:

"Remains of a burial cairn, probably dating to the Bronze Age on the SE-facing slopes of Cefn Cyfarwydd. Circular in plan, measuring c. 12m diameter and up to 1.2m in height. The cairn has a large hollow at its centre, presumably the result of antiquarian investigation. A small marker cairn has been built on the S. side of the cairn. FF 13/01/2004"

Moelfre (Round Barrow(s))

There are a number of 'Moelfre's across the length and breadth of Wales... hardly surprising, since I understand the name basically means 'hill'. This one, however, has been on my 'list' for some time since it is one of the few featuring that iconic 'Antiquarian typeface' on the OS map.

To be fair, however, I arrive at Bwlch Glynmyndd to the north-east more in anticipation of the expected views than archaeological splendour. Needless to say, things are not as straightforward as they may appear from a simple perusal of the map.....

OK, the views ARE magnificent, the deeply riven hills north of Pumlumon forming a twisted, convoluted landscape of sublime aesthetics. However, the expected site of the monument, indicated below and to the southwest of the summit, reveals a 'possible' circular feature, probably natural? Certainly nothing to write home about. Fortunately, the views most certainly are..

Eventually, I return to the 1,539ft summit and everything suddenly becomes clear. For here is located what very much looks like a substantial Bronze Age round barrow, more-or-less inviolate. As it happens, the professional archaeologists agree, Coflein noting:

"A barrow, 17.5m in diameter, from 0.7m to 2.7m high, apparently undisturbed. There is no notice of any ditch. [J.Wiles 16.04.02]"

So what of the OS feature? Is this a mistake - plain and simple - or is there indeed something there?

Nant Gwyn (Llanfair-ar-y-Bryn) (Round Cairn)

CADW scheduling (CM343) reckons:

"The monument comprises the remains of a burial cairn and an associated standing stone, both probably dating to the Bronze Age (c.2300 BC - 800 BC) and situated on the S-facing leading edge of a local summit on the SW-facing slopes of Mynydd Trawsnant. The grass-covered cairn, which probably utilises an outcropping bedrock knoll, is circular on plan and measures about 16m in diameter and up to 1.6m in height. An impressive quartz standing stone is situated about 45m to the NNW. It is a large block of stone, measuring 0.9m in height by 0.6m in width and 0.6m in thickness. Packing stones are clearly visible around its base."

The salient feature for me - as always - however, is the magnificent vista towards the South Walian mountains, more than liberally crowned with Bronze Age cairns of their own. Oh and the wondrous vibe. This, truly, is a spot to just sit and watch for a few hours.... it would be a crime to rush, hence I deferred from a quick visit the previous late afternoon, kipped overnight above Llyn Brianne.. and spent the entire morning before a massive storm front none too subtly suggested I, ahem, move on.

Note the nearby quartzite stone which would appear to be associated with the great cairn. As CADW note, the obvious packing stones strongly suggest authenticity.

Bryn-Poeth-Uchaf North (Ring Cairn)

A pretty substantial ring cairn, this, with a well-preserved bank upon the southern arc and sweeping, extensive views to the apex of the South Walian uplands. A classic location, to be fair.

Coflein notes the following:

"Remains of a ring cairn on the SW-facing slopes of Mynydd Trawsnant, above Cerrig Cynnant. Circular on plan, measuring about 9m in diameter within a grass covered stony ring bank about 1.5m in thickness and up to 0.2m in height. The interior is level and largely stone free. [Source: Cadw scheduling description. F.Foster 05/04/2005]"

Cerrig Cynant (Stone Circle)

Although not in the same league as the other obscure stone circles in the extended locale of Llyn Brianne (Bryn y Gorlan, Crug Siarls) this is still well worth the not-inconsiderable effort of visiting, if only for the excellent vibe - the nearby pair of ring cairns make it a no-brainer, should you be able.

Located a little north of the southern ring cairn, beyond an earthen field boundary, copious industrial strength upland grass and other sundry vegetation currently obscure what remains - above ground, at least - of this stone ring. I couldn't discern anything still upstanding in the northern arc...

Although Coflein, in this instance, has nothing to add, the site is Scheduled, the CADW report (CM225) noting:

"The monument comprises the remains of a stone circle, which probably dates to the Bronze Age (c. 2300 - 800 BC). The stone circle measures approximately 20m in diameter and consists of eight stones set in a semicircle, with two further stones to the north completing the circle. The northern half of the circle, with only these two stones remaining, is presumably ruined, as the stones are only c. 20cm in height, some in the northern sector could be buried beneath the turf."

Bryn Poeth Uchaf South (Ring Cairn)

Assuming you've the correct OS coordinates to relate to (preferably) your 1:25K map - the 1:50k will probably do, at a push - correctly identifying the location of this pleasing trio of sites is clearly not an issue. Getting there, however, isn't exactly straightforward: I eschewed the long approach via the great cairn of Garn Fawr (with its little associated quartzite stone) in favour of a low-level stroll above the Cynnant Fawr, followed by a steep scramble to the west. As it transpired, choosing the hottest day of 2023 wasn't ideal for such exertion, but hey. Stupid is as stupid does.

If you've only a day to spare, probably best to choose the former option and check in at the former Youth Hostel of Bryn-poeth Uchaf for a chat in passing - a neighbour I met the following day related how the current owner is very friendly to us outsiders. As it was, I instead met the (presumed) owner of Cynnant Farm who, while remaining silent, gave me a wry smile I took to signify a tolerance of my parking arrangements at the entrance to the public track traversing the cwm.
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Hi, I'm Robert ... with a passion for attempting to understand the lives of the pioneering prehistoric inhabitants of these British Isles, seeking out the remains they left behind in order to ask myself "why here ... why did it matter so... why such commitment?".. Needless to say, I'm still pondering such intangibles. Just as an empty house appears to retain echoes of past humanity... so does the stone circle, the chambered cairn, the long barrow and the mountain-top funerary cairn. Visiting them, I think, helps engender a certain 'connection' with this land of ours, with ourselves - our past, our present and our future; a reference point for those of us perhaps struggling to make sense of this so-called 'computer world' Kraftwerk warned us was a'coming in 1981.... danke, mein herren. And thanks also to those who picked up their gauntlet and ran with it.

Should my posts provide inspiration for others to venture into the Great Outdoors, please bear in mind the hills and mountains of these Isles are unpredictable, potentially dangerous places. Ensure you have map/compass/waterproofs... and learn how to use them. It could save your life. Weather conditions can change bewilderingly quickly - even in high summer - so don't get caught out. Please engage with landowners wherever possible... being a cartoon 'class warrior' might be jolly good fun for the narcissistic 'rebel'... but not for those who may choose to follow.

Joni Mitchell - 'Don't it always seem to go; That you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone?'

George Orwell - 'The essence of being human is that one does not seek perfection.'

Martin Gore - 'Like a pawn
On the eternal board
Who’s never quite sure
What he’s moved towards
I walk blindly on'...

Truman Capote - 'Failure is the condiment that gives success its flavour.'

Oscar Wilde - 'The true mystery of the world is the visible, not the invisible.'

John Lydon - 'It is a reward to be chastised by the ignorant.'

Winston Churchill - '“The farther backward you can look, the farther forward you are likely to see.” [Perhaps one day people may finally grasp the reality that, for all his many faults, Churchill is the reason we are currently able to proffer personal views today that are not dictated by a totalitarian state.]

Charles Bukowski - “The problem with the world is that the intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence.”

Ultravox - 'Taking shelter by the standing stones
Miles from all that moves....'

Catch site videos from the Citizen Cairn at: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFk6mRD0QCGTnUXRBlSJ44w

My TMA Content: