One of the many strange natural rock formations found all over this part of Cornwall. Overlooking Tregeseal stone circle proved too much - I had to climb it! Walking directly from the stone circle, a wide path had been cut in the gorse/heather. However, shortly afterwards the path goes to the left. I noticed that on the O/S map this path then goes around the back of Carn Kenidjack and approaches from the rear. I was pushed for time so I decided to wade directly through the gorse. BIG mistake!!! There then follwed 15 minutes of pain as I was cut to pieces by the gorse which by now was waist high. By the time I reached Carn Kenidjack and returned to the stone circle my legs were cut to pieces. My advice would be to follow the 'path' around the back and approach from there. It may take a bit longer but it is a lot less painful. At least I can say I have stood on top. In hindsight I should have just viewed from the stone circle!!!
Carn Kenidjack strikes such a distinctive pose in such a bold way that is visible from so many points around Penwith that really you'd be rude not to make the effort to go there and spend a little time. I sat with a friend for hours there with the sun up above and a little doggy having a great time. Up above all the heavy stuff at this seriously heavy place. Good views of the sea to the North and the three hills of Carn Brea, Bartinne Castle and Caer Bran to the South. Wonderful outcrop to park in on. And from there ya can see, just, the little rig of tiny, humble stones that are the Tregeseal Dancing Stones which are just a simple delight, darling. Wow. Very, very nice indeed. 19 stones, like most round here. There are a couple of outlying stones visible from the circle towards Kenidjack, but they could just be 'normal' stones, it's a bit difficult to tell.
A tale about Carn Kenidjack, from R. Hunt's 1903 edition of Popular Romances of the West of England. By way of introduction he mentions that 'Cairn Kenidzhek' is pronounced 'Kenidjack' and means 'Hooting Cairn, from the sound of the wind around the rocks. (I admit it's a bit long-winded, but sometimes it's nicer to have the original language than a summary..)
Two miners who had been working in one of the now abandoned mines in Morvah, had, their labours being over, been, as was common, "half-pinting" in the public-house in Morvah Church.. town. It was after dark, but not late; they were very quiet men, and not drunk. They had walked on, talking of the prospects of the mine, and speculating on the promise of certain "pitches," and were now on the Common, at the base of the Hooting Cairn. No miner ever passed within the shadow of Cairn Kenidzhek who dared to indulge in any frivolous talk: at least, thirty years since, the influence akin to fear was very potent upon all.
Well, our two friends became silent, and trudged with a firm, a resolved footstep onward.
There was but little wind, yet a low moaning sound came from the cairn, which now and then arose into a hoot. The night was dark, yet a strange gleaming light rendered the rocks on the cairn visible, and both the miners fancied they saw gigantic forms passing in and about the intricate rocks. Presently they heard a horse galloping at no great distance behind them. They turned and saw, mounted on a horse ~'hich they knew very well, since the bony brute had often worked the "whim" on their mine, a dark man robed in a black gown and a hood over his head, partly covering his face.
"Hallo! hallo!" shouted they, fearing the rider would ride over them.
"Hallo to you," answered a gruff voice.
"Where be'st goen then?" asked the bravest of the miners.
"Up to the cairn to see the wrastling," answered the rider; "come along! come along!"
Horse and rider rushed by the two miners, and, they could never tell why, they found themselves compelled to follow.
They did not appear to exert themselves, but without much effort they kept up with the galloping horse. Now and then the dark rider motioned them onward with his hand, but he spoke not. At length the miners arrived at a mass of rocks near the base of the hill, which stopped their way; and, since it was dark, they knew not how to get past them. Presently they saw the rider ascending the hill, regardless of the masses of rock; passing unconcernedly over all, and, as it seemed to them, the man, the horse, and the rocks were engaged in a "three man's song," the chorus to which was a piercing hoot. A great number of uncouth figures were gathering together, coming, as it seemed, out of the rocks themselves. They were men of great size and strength, with savage faces, rendered more terrible by the masses of uncombed hair which hung about them, and the colours with which they had painted their cheeks. The plain in front of the rocks which had checked the miners' progress was evidently to be the wrestling ground. Here gathered those monstrous-looking men, all anxiety, making a strange noise. It was not long ere they saw the rider, who was now on foot, descending the hill with two giants of men, more terrible than any they had yet seen.
A circle was formed; the rider, who had thrown off his black gown, and discovered to the miners that he was no other than Old Nick, placed the two men, and seated himself in a very odd manner upon the ground.
The miners declared the wrestlers were no other than two devils, although the horns and tail were wanting. There was a shout, which, as if it indicated that the light was insufficient, was answered by the squatting demon by flashing from his eyes two beams of fire, which shed an unearthly glow over everything. To it the wrestlers went, and better men were never seen to the west of Penzance. At length one of them, straining hard for the mastery, lifted his antagonist fairly high in the air, and flung him to the ground, a fair back fall. The rocks trembled, and the ground seemed to thunder with the force of the fall. Old Nick still sat quietly looking on, and notwithstanding the defeated wrestler lay as one dead, no one went near him. All crowded around the victor, and shouted like so many wild beasts. The love of fair play was strong in the hearts of the miners; they scorned the idea of deserting a fallen foe; so they scrambled over the rocks, and made for the prostrate giant, for so, for size, he might well be called. He was in a dreadful strait. Whether his bones were smashed or not by the fall, they could not tell, but he appeared "passing away." The elder miner had long been a professor of religion. It is true he had fallen back; but still he knew the right road. He thought, therefore, that even a devil might repent, and he whispered in the ear of the dying man the Christian's hope.
If a thunderbolt had fallen amongst them, it could not have produced such an effect as this. The rocks shook with an earthquake; everything became pitchy dark; there was a noise of rushing hither and thither, and all were gone, dying man and all, they knew not whither. The two miners, terrified beyond measure, clung to each other on their knees; and, while in this position, they saw, as if in the air, the two blazing eyes of the demon passing away into the west, and at last disappear in a dreadfully black cloud. These two men were, although they knew the ground perfectly well, inextricably lost; so, after vainly endeavouring to find the right road off the Common, they lay down in each other's arms under a mass of granite rock, praying that they might be protected till the light of day removed the spell which was upon them.