King Arthur in Wales - Aberystwyth and District Civic Society
This may be of interest to some (I know it's not strictly within the TMA remit, but King Arthur does - undeniably - turn up a fair bit in conjunction with TMA-relates sites)
Britain's most ancient fishing trap has been discovered off the coastline of Wales after research carried out on Google Earth.
The 853ft (260m) long construction is thought to have been built 1,000 years ago, around the time of the Domesday Book, using large rocks placed on a river bed... continues...
A day school aimed at anyone who is interested in the history and archaeology of Ceredigion is running on Saturday 4th March between 10.50 a.m. and 4.30 p.m.
The event is taking place at the Hugh Owen Lecture Theatre, Aberystwyth University [sic].
Archaeologists were called in to investigate the site near Llandysul after workmen clearing farmland for a new Welsh Development Agency industrial estate noticed dark circles in the soil.
Cambria Archaeology workers then identified several large circular graves from the Bronze Age... continues...
Castell, Tregaron, is a strong and impressive fort, constructed around a flat-topped, rocky promontory with precipitous slopes to the W and S, with two curving ramparts cutting off the landward side to the north east. The two ramparts which comprise the façade still retain steep, almost unclimbable front faces. The outer stands between 3 and 4.5m high and is about 20m broad at its base. It was probably augmented by an outer ditch, now silted up. Mid way along its outer face, and at other points, sections of decayed stone walling and tumbles of substantial stones from erosion features, would suggest that the outer face was once fully walled. The inner rampart is flanked by an outer ditch up to 3m deep, and still stands up to 6m high on the outer face. It has a more pronounced curve than the outer rampart and so the two are not parallel. The top of the inner rampart is also not uniform. It dips markedly in the centre which is perhaps an original feature to make the rampart ends appear taller, but may also be the result of old erosion slippage. The outer face of this rampart still bears several traces of in-situ stone walling.
The outer rampart obscures the true position of the main gateway; it is certainly not obvious to those approaching from the east. At the north terminals of the ramparts the inner slope is too steep to climb and where the interior is open to view, it was probably closed off with a palisade. The main gate was reached by passing under the south terminal of the outer rampart where, adjacent to the inner rampart, a low foundation bank forms an oblique gateway against the main inner rampart. The arrangement was probably augmented by timberwork.
The interior of the fort provides a good, level area immediately behind the inner rampart and below the outcrop which would have been suitable for settlement. On the outcrop itself, several plateau areas are visible, some cut back into the rock to form platforms. The more obvious of these are marked on the new plan. On the south side of the outcrop, a concavity at a lower level on the edge of the rock may also have been the site of a house.
It is unlikely the whole fort was the result of a single phase of work. The differences between the inner and outer rampart suggest two phases of work; it may be that the inner gate was originally `on view', but its direct approach was subsequently blocked with the provision of an uncompromising outer façade rampart. The berm or terrace cut into rear side of the outer rampart at its north end, for whatever purpose, suggests a later modification of the rampart.
The strategic role served by the two tall, steep, stone-walled façade ramparts is questionable as the fort rapidly disappears from view from the main approach, to the northeast, after only 200m. The zigzag terminals of the ramparts on the north side do, however, form an impressive feature on the skyline from the lowland approaches to the north. From the main north-east approach, one descends from higher ground and the rocky interior of the fort is fully on view, thus rendering it tactically weak in the conventional sense.
There is erosion towards the summit of the outer rampart and if left to continue may eventually undermine the well-preserved top of the rampart and cause it to collapse. At the time of the visit in 2004, the farmer had recently cleared most of the gorse bushes on site.
Good for farmer!!!
One aerial pic and a few ground ones http://www.coflein.gov.uk/en/site/303561/images/CASTELL+TREGARON%3BSUNNYHILL+WOOD+CAMP/?show=all
A strongly sited, pear-shaped, bivallate hillfort about 90m N/S by 84m E/W internally, occupying a summit at the eastern end of a long ridge, which commands extensive views in all directions except to the west.
The main defence is a single strong rampart; it is tallest at the north where it stands 1.6m above the interior and up to 4m above the ditch bottom externally . This main rock-cut ditch is traceable again on the east side, flanking the main gate where it is still 0.80m deep, and around the south side. On the north side is a second, outer ditch, separated from the inner rampart by a flat, revetted terrace. The east gate is flanked by traces of an outer rampart, beyond the main inner ditch.
All around the innermost face of the rampart are traces of a quarry ditch. A wet area in the south-east part of the interior may have been an original spring or pond serving the fort. On the inner face of the rampart on the west side traces of an inner stone revetment are exposed.
No traces of stone revetment survive on the outer face of the main rampart, however, this is severely eroded in places, particularly on the west side. On this west side, close to the summit of the rampart, erosion has exposed a clay capping to the rampart above a stone rubble and clay rampart core. The most interesting revetment survives on the eroded outer face of the second rampart on the north side, actually a terraced outwork. Here are traces (surviving despite livestock erosion) of a massive stone revetment which includes a high proportion of quartz blocks. It is interesting to note that this impressively-fronted outwork faces west towards the most restricted vista from the fort, where the fort disappears from view after only a few hundred metres. This is the route that the present day east-west road follows past the fort and it is conceivable that the quartz-fronted outwork overlooked the main public approach to the fort, and the Cors Caron landscape, by people from outside the area. The main east gate, whilst impressively constructed and commanding extensive views east across Cors Caron, is not so similarly elaborated as the north-west perimeter of the fort.
For one aerial picture http://www.coflein.gov.uk/en/site/303559/images/CASTELL+FLEMISH+HILLFORT%2C+TY%27N-YR-EITHIN%2C+NEAR+TREGARON/
The 'green desert' of Mid Wales - that wild expanse of high moor stretching north of Llandovery to Pumlumon - has altered somewhat since our Bronze Age forebears erected their hill top cairns in veneration of their dead, the most obvious change, the creation of the massive reservoirs of Cwm Elan and Llyn Brianne.... although forestry is also much in evidence. This recent adaptation of the landscape to support an evolving way of life has not been unflattering to the eye, although, of course, there are other criteria to consider when evaluating the overall impact of the relatively recent actions of humankind. However, from a purely aesthetic viewpoint, my judgement is that these hills, although demanding, offer much to the prehistorically-inclined walker prepared to venture off the 'beaten track'. The highest summits of Drygarn Fawr and Gorllwyn, both crowned by Bronze Age cairns and rising to the north-east of the attractive Irfon pass (north-west of the small hamlet of Abergwesyn) will probably top the list of TMA-ers making an initial sortie into the locality. However note that the ascent of both is problematic due to the more-or-less trackless terrain and subsequent extreme navigational issues prevalent in poor weather. Hence the considerably easier/safer route to the summit barrow of Pen-y-Gurnos could well be a fine, introductory alternative, particularly since it features excellent views of Cwm Doethie, arguably the jewel in the region's crown.
Strong walkers, upon studying the map, may wish to start from the west, near the Youth Hostel of Ty'n-y-cornel, this presenting the option of exploring the enigmatic, prehistoric complex upon Bryn y Gorlan beforehand... not to mention a walk beside the Afon Doethie. However, poor weather having vetoed a proposed attempt upon Pumlumon today (10/9/11), I approach from the north. The isolated chapel of Soar y Mynydd is the key here, accessible by mountain road beyond the north-western 'tentacle' of Llyn Brianne. Ignore the obvious track ascending the hillside to the west (this will bring you back again if you take the circular option and visit Carn Saith-wraig) and instead head to the south-east upon another substantial track above the waters of the Camddwr. Keep your eyes peeled for a sluice gate upon the river and ascend the hillside to the right in the direction of Nant Llwyd farm, this bridleway continuing all the way to the escarpment edge overlooking the Afon Doethie... a wonderful viewpoint. The summit of Pen-y-Gurnos, surmounted by its monument, in turn supporting an OS trig point, can be attained without too much effort by traversing the hillside to the left at this point (to approx south).
The round barrow is by no means an overbearing monument, but nonetheless remains relatively substantial, with traces of kerb a welcome, surviving feature. Needless to say, however, it is the location which takes the proverbial biscuit, endowing the site with, oh, ooodles of vibe, fast moving weather fronts adding that extra authentic 'Welshness' to the experience. Forestry restricts views to the south, but this is of little consequence since the primary focus is - and I would assume always has been - the beautiful gorge carved by the Afon Doethie. Hell, I'd seriously doubt if the natural, abrasive action of flowing water has resulted in more sublime contours in a landscape anywhere else? There is nothing to do except plonk myself upon the ancient barrow and enjoy the silence which pervades this isolated corner of wildest Wales. Not sure if George Borrow ever came here. But if not, he should've. Bryn y Gorlan rises upon the north-western skyline.... but, needless to say, I still haven't the foggiest what went on there. Pen-y-Gurnos is made of simpler 'stuff'. If ever such nebulous material could ever be described as simple.
Two further examples of substantial - if ravaged - Bronze Age cairns lie beyond the ascent track to the approx north-west at Carn Saith-wraig, albeit obscured by high ground. This latter is fenced, although I was able to make my way without excessive problems to connect - following a sojourn at the cairns - with a byway leading east back to Soar y Mynydd (as mentioned earlier). Well worth the additional effort. Yeah, closing the circle is always worthwhile.....
Carn Fawr represents the last site visit of my day... and, furthermore, could well be the most isolated cairn upon the whole of the Pumlumon massif. You can take it as a given, then, that the vibe and 'sense of place' here makes the receptive traveller feel 'on top of the world'. In a manner of speaking, of course, since this cairn is actually located just below the 2,000ft contour. But truly that is of little relevance here.
According to Coflein [see misc post] there are actually the remains of two further Bronze Age cairns upon this craggy hilltop overlooking Cwm Hengwm, the upper reaches of which are, incidentally, cited by experienced climbing author Dave Ing as the 'wildest cwm in all Wales'. I have to admit, however, that the potent combination of Carn Fawr's impressive dimensions and the manner in which it relates to the landscape renders the memory defective in this instance. Yeah, there can be only one. Carn Fawr not only lives up to its prosaic name... 'Big Cairn'... but additionally has no trouble at all picking the lock of the door to the human psyche labelled 'folk memory, cairns, pertaining to fascination of'. In short, it just looks 'right', you know?
It is therefore sad to relate that Carn Fawr - the large one, that is (the baton is passed to other TMA members to add detail of the others) - has, despite initial appearances, not survived the passage of time as well as its two great neighbours upon Cwmbiga, having a somewhat hollow core. Nonetheless there is a lot of stone within this great stone pile, although, having said that, it is the location which really makes this a 'must visit' for the Citizen Cairn'd on walkabout upon Pumlumon. Situated just a little to the north of the source of the Hafren (Severn) and with Carn Hyddgen, rising across Cwm Hengwm, just one of numerous similarly blessed hills nearby, this is a spot to truly lose yourself for a while. Just make sure it's only in a metaphorical sense, please! Map, compass and the usual kit are, needless to say, essential. But I've said it anyway.
If approaching from Carnfachbugeilyn... Carn Fawr is actually visible from the former looking to the approx west. Follow the fence line to the approx south-west before striking off downhill to your right. If you lose sight of the cairn, carry on until the fence line swings sharply to your left (south)... the monument is now below to your right (approx north).
Finally, thanks to Derfel for posting the images which prove local knowledge cannot really be surpassed.
I was prompted to make this post following a recent visit to Carn Fawr... the twin cairns of Carn Gwilym standing proud (with a little help from modern 'masons', it has to be said) upon the summit of Carn Hyddgen across the valley.
Intriguingly, Coflein quotes a field report from 1910 stating:
'there are here two cairns, 60 feet apart. They stand on the summit of Mynydd Hyddgen... an outlying height of Plynlymon, midway between the sources of Nant y Garn and Nant Lluest fach. They are each 20 feet in height; of rough construction, the stones being piled into a mass without any signs of regular courses. No stones similar to those used in the building of these cairns are to be seen anywhere around; none are scattered about from which they could now be erected, and none are of a size larger than one man could carry hither. Of the carneddau of the Plynlymon district Carn Gwilym is probably the best preserved'
Each cairn measuring 20 feet in height in 1910? Surely not? Oh, come on?
Whatever the accuracy of the 'not so modern antiquarians', CPAT gives a succinct appraisal of the current state of affairs:
Northern cairn - 'Substantial summit cairn c. 13m diam. Original form difficult to assess due to disturbance and construction of a modern cairn 3.2m diam x 2.8m high, off-centre to S. Small shelter also built into cairn on E side. Outer edge of cairn is turf covered, with loose rubble interior, Top has been levelled and remains of a revetment wall survive on S side. Irregular group of stones to SE is of uncertain function. The modern cairn has been recently rebuilt (?and enlarged) using more of burial cairn stone. Good palaeoenvironmental deposits over 1m deep c. 100-150m to NE. (CPAT 2002) (CPAT Prehistoric Ritual & Funerary Monuments, 2002)'
Southern cairn - 'Substantial cairn which appears to comprise a turf covered ring bank 13.2 x 12.5 x 0.5m, visible most clearly on E side, the interior of which is filled with loose rubble forming a cairn up to 0.75m high. The top has been levelled and disturbed by the construction of a modern cairn set off-centre to W, measuring 3.4m diam x 2.4m high, possibly recently rebuilt. Small satellite cairn adjoins E side, 2.5m diam, composed of well-sett stones. (CPAT 2002) (CPAT Prehistoric Ritual & Funerary Monuments, 2002)'
Standing to the approx north west of.... and visible from.... the two great cairns crowning Pumlumon Cwmbiga, the trashed monument of Carnfachbugeilyn ['small cairn of the Bugeilyn', the lake visible below to the north] is always going to be an anti-climax. Nevertheless a visit is still worthwhile, if only for the superb northward views to Foel Fadian (also bearing a monument - actually monuments... one Bronze Age, the other to the late Wynford Vaughan-Thomas, the celebrated correspondent and walker) and Southern Snowdonia, not to mention the aforementioned Cwmbiga cairns crowning the retrospective horizon like a pair of (more than) ample... well, you know what.
As mentioned, the cairn is seriously disturbed - hey, so would you be if you had been messed around to such an extent - although still retaining a reasonable enough volume of material to be classed 'relatively substantial', particularly so if it had been located anywhere else than upon the wondrous Pumlumon. A boundary marker stone stands nearby.
Perhaps the salient point, though, is that the cairn lies on the route from Pumlumon Cwmbiga to the much more impressive Carn Fawr, visible to the approx west..... bonus site, then.
Traditionally one of the 'Three Mountains of Wales', Pumlumon possesses little of the overwhelming physical grandeur of either Cadair Idris or Snowdon, its celebrated companions in the triumvirate. No soaring, razor sharp aretes, a paucity of naked rock... in fact little architectural splendour to raise the pulse and encourage the punter to don boots. No, Pumlumon's charms are a lot more subtle, more ethereal - dare I say metaphysical? - and require a lot of effort from prospective suitors, like the woman who, despite lacking the classical aesthetic attributes, nonetheless holds the attention of every man in the room.... without them being able to grasp why. I guess it could be described as 'allure', this mass of soggy, Mid Walian high ground seemingly exerting a magnetism over human kind - the local Bronze Age inhabitants being the prime example - which transcends the manner in which we view the everyday world. How else would it have managed to be in the 'top three', so to speak?
I'm glad to say that there is pretty obvious, not to say fundamental explanation as to why this should be ... the poor drainage which was so lamented by travellers of yore is paradoxically Pumlumon's crowning asset, accounting for the massif sourcing no less than THREE major rivers in the Hafren (that is, the Severn), Wye and Rheidol. Incredible. If ever a mountain could be termed 'Mother of Rivers', surely Pumlumon has first bagsy? What's more, in my opinion it should also be acknowledged as Wales' - if not the UK's? - greatest upland Bronze Age cemetery, even surpassing Snowdonia's Y Carneddau. Yeah, virtually every summit is crowned by an ancient cairn, a number of which are very substantial indeed. I know of no other upland area with such a concentration of these monuments within a relatively small locale. [Suffice to say... if there is, lemme at it!]. So... what are the odds that Pumlumon's two superlative attributes are connected.... and it was selected to be the ritual capital of the 'Citizens Cairn'd' because it was viewed as literally representing the very font of life back in the Bronze Age? Doesn't sound at all far fetched to me.
'Pumlumon' translates as 'Five Stacks', no doubt a reference to the sum of massive cairns which are shared between the summit peak (Pen Pumlumon-Fawr) and its neighbour, Pen Pumlumon-Arwystli. There are many more examples, however, (arguably) the two finest located at the eastern extremity of the main ridge, upon Pumlumon Cwmbiga. The southern of this pair is clearly the larger [see misc post], although both would appear to have had their upper sections rebuilt in times unknown. I can live with that since, for the most part, structural integrity would appear to have been maintained, the monuments unsullied by the shameful 'walker's storm shelter'. I can also live with the two quartzite 'nipples' which further enhance the cairns' representation of a pair of fulsome breasts from a distance. Although recent (not featuring on my 1995 image) it is, I think, a nice touch. Or is it just me? The panorama surveyed by the cairns is expansive to the north, with Cadair Idris and the hills of Southern Snowdonia resplendent in serried rank under a pristine blue sky. The sadly trashed Bronze Age cairn of Carnfachbugeilyn [my next objective] rises to the north-west beyond the remains of another cairn of uncertain origin, whilst to the approx south-west the main Pumlumon ridge leads towards the major summits of the range beyond Blaenhafren, source of the river. Looking to the east, a phalanx of wind turbines crowns a hillside beyond the Hafren Forest, through which I made my approach to this wondrous spot today.
A minor road from Staylittle, a small settlement at the northern tip of Llyn Clywedog, passes a number of 'tumuli' - love that word - to pass Cwmbiga farm. Roadside parking is available here, a well maintained forestry track following the right hand bank of the Afon Biga into the back of beyond. Eventually this encounters the headwall of the cwm, veering sharply to the left before a cascading stream. Ascend to the right of the stream as best you can to reach a parallel, higher track. In retrospect it is advisable to trend right here for a hundred yards or so before continuing on the ascent line... in order to avoid both some very rough terrain resulting from forestry operations and several deep, transverse gulleys. Soon the northernmost Cwmbiga cairn should be visible on the horizon. Persevere and let a fenceline be your final guide....
Don't forget to pay a visit to Blaenhafren and stand in bemused wonderment at the enormity of what it represents, the twin cairns crowning the eastern skyline as if they just HAD to be there. Choose a fine day - any other kind would be risking literally everything upon a landscape as brutal as Pumlumon - and ponder that a massive suspension bridge or two are needed to span the output of this murky pool when it reaches the Bristol Channel. To be honest my poor brain couldn't cope with that at the time. Need to get metaphysical and build a cairn or two if I ever return, methinks.