Solving the myriad mysteries of archipelago's sunken landscape
Why are there ten times as many ancient entrance graves on the Isles of Scilly as there are in the whole of the Cornish mainland and what treasures are still to be found in the waters around the archipelago?
These and a host of other puzzles will be under discussion as part of a six-year research programme looking into every aspect of ... continues...
We pitch'd upon a hill where there are many of these barrows, and, as the common story goes, giants were buried, with a design to search them; and on Wednesday, June the third, 1752, having hired some soldiers, proceeded to open them. [...]
In the afternoon it rained excessively hard, so that we could not proceed in our inquiries. The wind blew, and about mid-night it was the most violent storm, while it lasted, I ever knew.
You that are curious will think very innocently of our searching these repositories of the dead for the satisfaction of the living, but will you not be surprised if I tell you it appeared in a very different light to the poor people of Scilly? The story may make you smile.
Thursday morning [...] I met a person who soon began to talk about the weather, and to complain of the bitterness of the last night's hurricane, that it had almost ruined him and many of his neighbours, that their potatoes and corn were blasted, their grass burnt quite black, and their pease utterly destroyed. I little suspected what the man drove at, but believing him to be in distress, pitied and endeavoured to comfort him, then went [to a house where he was going to stay].
[On making polite conversation with the landlady] she told me that a few days before they were in hopes of a plentiful crop, paying their rent, and providing meat and clothes for themselves and children, but that the last night's storm was very outrageous; then asked me whether we had not been digging up the Giants' Graves the day before, and smiling with great good humour, as if she forgave our curiosity though she suffered for it, asked whether I did not think that we had disturbed the giants; and said that many good people of the islands were of opinion that the giants were offended, and had really raised that storm[...]
An extract from Borlase's 'Antiquities of Cornwall', that I found quoted in 'Rambles in Western Cornwall' by J O Halliwell-Phillipps (1861). He himself says, The appearance of the barrows which now remain gives the idea that most of them have been ransacked at some period, most likely in the hope of discovering treasure. The country people still believe that valuables are hidden under some of them, and one was recently destroyed clandestinely, in consequence of a man dreaming there was gold in it.
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Buzza Hill (Dolmen / Quoit / Cromlech) — Fieldnotes
We headed up here after a walk around the wonders of Peninnis Head (22.6.2011).
Last time I came was at the end of a long walk around the island's principal sites, and Buzza Hill doesn't quite compare with the top drawer chambered tombs at Bant's Carn, Innisidgen or Porth Hellick Down. But actually it's still really impressive. It sits in a commanding position overlooking Porth Cressa and the narrow "neck" of Hugh Town, as well as giving views of the neighbouring islands of St Agnes, Samson, Bryher and Tresco. Only one capstone remains in place, but the mound itself is impressively large and bits of kerb protrude here and there from the grass.
The second tomb recorded by Borlase was apparently destroyed when the nearby windmill was built. Possible remains of a kerb can still be found at its base.
22.6.2011. The weather on this summer's Cornwall holiday has been anything but predictable, most days vary from heavy rain to blue skies and back again over the course of the days. But I am determined to get back over to the Isles at least once. Tickets for the Scillonian III can be bought on the day, so we head to Penzance, in the rain but hopeful that the weather is going to improve.
The upshot of all of this is that the ferry journey (2hrs 40 or so) is something of a trial. This is the fourth time we have made the trip, but there's no flat calm today. Talk about peaks and troughs! Although we are both pretty good sailors, sharing a deck with a dozen people being noisily sick begins to upset the hardiest of stomachs - I head up on to the outside deck, preferring to brave the wet, while GF turns her ipod up and sits through the traumas.
But we arrive at Hugh Town harbour on St Mary's in due course, all safe and sound. A last fleeting squall of rain accompanies our walk to the Old Town, then the sun is out. We haven't been to the southern tip of the island before, as there are few prehistoric remains and nothing to compare with the extraordinary chambered tombs that pepper the north and east coasts.
Old Town church is worth a quick visit, but the first stoney treat is on the pebbly beach of Carn Leh Cove, where some enterprising artist(s) has stacked the beautifully smooth pebbles up into little piles, making the whole beach look like an outdoor art installation.
From here the path climbs bracken-covered slopes onto Peninnis Head itself. We are greeted by some of the most bizarre and striking natural sculpture I have ever seen. The granite of Scilly, while still very hard, is more porous than its mainland cousin and lends itself to being carved into amazing crests and molar-like blocks, over millenia of assault from wind and salt-water. What an astonishing place!
The cairns themselves are something of a disappointment. Only one is easily identifiable, just NW of the lighthouse and one particular rock that reminded me of the head and shoulders of a troll or goblin, emerging from the clifftop.
The cairn has some visible stonework, possibly indicating the remains of a kerb. There are no chambers here though. A second, badly damaged cairn is just down the slope to the SW. A bit further down is a shallow scoop, which looks likely to be remains of quarrying or even a kelp pit, but isn't a cairn. We don't even see the most northerly of the group, missing it under the purple edging on the OS map (the edging indicates Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust access).
But the spot is a great one, wild and windswept. The extravagantly shaped stones of the headland more than make up for any disappointment in the cairns.
From here we headed up Buzza Hill for a quick visit to the chambered tomb there.
Under the cliffs of Peninnis Head on St Mary's there is a cavern, termed the Piper's Hole, which extends a long distance under ground, and is absurdly said to communicate with another cave of the same title, the entrance to which is in the island of Tresco. This legend would make the length of the cavern at least four miles; and the inhabitants of the locality tell you of dogs let in at the one entrance coming out, after a time, at the other with most of their hair off, so narrow are some parts of the cave. So there is a tradition in Scotland of a man getting through a similar cave, but paying the penalty in the loss of all his skin.
From 'Rambles in Western Cornwall' by J O Halliwell-Phillipps (1861).