We fortuitously found out about this site after browsing through an interesting guidebook on the Kungagraven over a coffee at the lovely Cafe Sågmöllen next to the Kungagraven in Kivik. Leaving the car in the Kungagraven carpark we set off walking east along the road in the glorious sunshine.
Only 300 metres away from the Kungagraven, and nestling among neatly tended apple orchards, we didn't see one vehicle on the way there, nor encountered any other visitors, and after a five minute walk a small gate at the side of the road afforded an easy entry to the site.
The skibssætning itself is a large one, and has two stones set inside the boat setting, almost as if they represented rowing benches for ancient viking mariners. It also had two stones standing at the 'prow', these two features being different from any of the other skibssætnings we have seen. The stones also look as if they stand on a slightly raised mound, which of course may have diminished in height over the millenia, there is also a noticable sunken entranceway which points directly east into the skibssætning.
Ängakåsen itself is part of a bigger gravefield known as 'Koarum' remains of which are visible in the field. Almost bisecting the area to north of the skibssætning was a pond and stream, possibly a result of waterlogged ground, but it provided a picturesque backdrop across which the other megalithic remains could be seen. From the skibssætning looking north the kerb circle and standing stone of the 'coin barrow' beckon to us.
So I do my usual mad photographic spree of attempting to take pictures from every possible angle of the stones, whilst everyone else chills out in the peaceful atmosphere. Again I'm struck by how well kept the megalithic sites in Sweden are, the field is neatly tended, easily accessible and with nary a piece of litter, not even a fag butt, to be seen.
This whole area around Kivik seems to form part of a larger ritual landscape, almost like the Kilmartin valley in Scotland, I'm so glad we stumbled on this hidden gem.
The Kivik bonus site! In English Penningagraven means 'Coin Barrow', as there was supposed to be treasure buried within it. It's a very fine site within the larger grave field of Ängakåsen, and it's amazing how much of this Bronze Age cemetery remains, and how little visited it seems considering its proximity to the Kungagraven.
The kerb circle itself is comprised of nice chunky boulders and the battered central standing stone, which was once broken into three pieces, has been neatly stuck back together (no ugly iron banding here!). Two cult houses ('kulthus' in Swedish), smaller kerbed burial cairns, stand just to west of the monument, whilst another can be found actually inside the Penningagraven itself.
Without the trees which screen the site there once would have been views from Penningagraven out across the Baltic to the north.
It's lovely and peaceful here, and this is an amazing place. As I sit on the stones in the blazing sun I can just catch a glimpse of the shimmering blue Baltic through the trees, butterflies flutter around me and I'm lost for words in the magical atmosphere here. It's like being a kid in a megalithic sweetshop! Even the cows across the other side of the field are placid and chilled out by the atmosphere!