We visited Nuraghe Nuradeo on a windswept, yet sun-embraced, April afternoon. As we walked up the muddy, rustic lane, observed by countless sheep and bulls, the Nuraghe became clearer.
Amongst the stillness, interrupted only by the noises of animals and the whistle of wind, an overwhelming sense of infinitely ancient history swept over us. Seeing the impossibly heavy stones, we wondered how humans could have carried them, to build a structure that was to withstand thousands of years of wind, rain, countless visitors.
It was not open, but seeing it from a distance was enough to make one consider the longevity of these ancient structures. On the way back, we noticed a perfect line of ruins, stretching on into the horizon.
We pressed on to Mura Cuada tombi di giganti in the midday heat, which is right by a railway line. If you do follow Julian's instructions to reach it, as Sals says, DO NOT walk on the railway line! Trains run on this line. We walked just to one side of the track out of the way of any passing rolling stock. Julian is spot on with his '355 paces' though.
What a surprising place it is; less of a tomba di giganti and more of a Menorcan naveta with arms! This tomba has no stele; instead it has just an entrance hole in the front wall, which forms a very curved forecourt.
Moth squeezed inside, but I was not wearing clothing suitable to join him in there. He said he could easily stand up and it was exactly like a naveta.
There's a small peep hole about the size of a football directly above the well at ground level through which light passes. Apparently, when the moon shines over it at one point in its 18.6 year cycle it completely fills the hole. (Sound familiar, Callanishistas?) I managed to suppress my horrible small girl urge to spit through it and listen for the splash at the bottom.
To get down to the well you pass through a trapezoid-shaped hole and decend down into the ground on a stone staircase. The steps and the corbelling is so fresh and crisp that you feel it could have been built yesterday, though Julian in TME says that this is original stonework. If he's right, then this is truly astonishing. Likewise the beehivey conical corbelling leading up from the well to the peephole at ground level – incredible stonework. It really does look modern.
I descended down the crisp, steep staircase (suppressing further girlish urges, this time to kick out my feet and sing "New York, New York") about 3 metres below ground level to the water. Down there it was refreshingly cool; perhaps 10degC lower in temperature, but then it was 35degC outside.
Though I'm not big into wells, this one's a must-see.