Knowth inhabits a kind of half way point between the mysterious beauty of Dowth and the rampant commercialism of Newgrange. The reconstruction steers away from the flagrant conjecture of Newgrange, but is ill-considered enough to be annoying. For me the worst part is a green metal bridgeway over a couple of the kerbstones, totally unsympathetic. The reason for the bridge? Because people feel it neccessary to stand inside the monument, even if it is in a brand new chamber. Add to this the concrete support over the kerbstones and you start to get an idea of the damage that has been done to the site in order to make it tourist friendly. Access to the top of the mound is at present restricted, so it was funny to be asked by an American family one evening, on the road near Dowth, the way to 'the mound you can stand on'. That is what people think about these sites. Stand on it. Stand in it. Run around it. Anything but feel it!
The site still retains an amount of dignity however, and is a must. The kerbstones alone make it worth the visit - the carvings are the best I've seen yet. At Knowth our guide (sorry I don't know your name) was pretty good. She obviously loved the site, and at one point, out of earshot of the camcordering yanks turned to me and said "this place is just fucking amazing, isn't it!" I'd have to agree, but it could have been so much better.
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Posted by IronMan
18th April 2002ce
Edited 10th January 2003ce
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